Most reliable Pneumatic Quick Connects ?
11-09-2019, 05:50 AM
#1
Most reliable Pneumatic Quick Connects ?
For quite a while, I have used the Robart pneumatic quick connects where it was necessary to remove a wing, etc. In the last year I have had (2) instances of failure with them, both luckily on the ground. The failure mode was
the same both times, with the tiny 'tang' that holds the pieces together breaking and allowing them to come apart under pressure.
I need to change over to something else, and want to know what is the most reliable, bullet proof connections that I can ? Suggestions please !
the same both times, with the tiny 'tang' that holds the pieces together breaking and allowing them to come apart under pressure.
I need to change over to something else, and want to know what is the most reliable, bullet proof connections that I can ? Suggestions please !
11-09-2019, 06:17 AM
#3
Robart IMO are the best there is. I've never had a failure in 20 years. I guess we don't get the temperature and UV swings you guys might, but my connectors do not yellow and still seal after year and years and many cycles
11-09-2019, 06:59 AM
#4
My Feedback: (8)
I also have used the Robart connectors for decades without issues but, I understand you have had issues with them so consider these connectors that I also use with great success:
https://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog...disconnects-4/
https://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog...disconnects-4/
11-09-2019, 08:36 AM
#6
Wow! I was immediately going to say that Robart ones are the best! I have many hard years on them.
I used those large connectors from dream works too, but I only had one set as the Robarts are my usual go to.
How about using the quick wing and fuse mounted ones? Then the force of the wing to fuse connection keeps them on?
I used those large connectors from dream works too, but I only had one set as the Robarts are my usual go to.
How about using the quick wing and fuse mounted ones? Then the force of the wing to fuse connection keeps them on?
11-09-2019, 09:35 AM
#8
I've used those Colder SMC type fittings since around 2002 as well. Have had a tang or two break, usually on the ones I use on my fill jug fuel lines. A little bulky for airlines in some installations. For those I went to the Air Power screw together type. Don't know if they're available anymore. I did have an o-ring break on one of the Air Power connectors but it was nearly 9 years old. I've also had o-rings go brittle on the SMC fittings too but you can replace the o-rings at Lowes or Home Depot. I also use the shut-off valve versions. Mostly on my UAT fill lines but I've seen them on air systems.
You can get all the SMC types at Fresh Water Systems. Same stuff, less expensive. Free shipping over $89.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/co...Metaseries=SMC
You can get all the SMC types at Fresh Water Systems. Same stuff, less expensive. Free shipping over $89.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/co...Metaseries=SMC
11-10-2019, 01:13 AM
#12
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Iv had a few of the robart ones fail and heard many stories of them failing.
They used to be really good and have a nice positive click, but i think they must have changed suppliers or materials as the newer ones are nothing near the quality of what i used to use.
They used to be really good and have a nice positive click, but i think they must have changed suppliers or materials as the newer ones are nothing near the quality of what i used to use.
11-10-2019, 07:51 AM
#14
My Feedback: (2)
I buy the SMM01 and SMF01 from a local distributor for the last several years. I have not had one break but did have one develope a very slow leak. Usually if a plastic part is going to fail it does so in our high dry climate.
I have made quick disconnects with them for a wing connection for retracts and brakes. Just trimmed off the locking tabs and epoxy them in a mounting plate.
11-10-2019, 07:59 AM
#16
Just seems that if the parts were the same, I would have seen failures a long time ago, not just recently.
11-10-2019, 04:13 PM
#18
Here’s how I did my wing root. I have been doing it this way for several jets. The only down side is that about every ten to fifteen assemblies, I cut a very small nip off of the end of the 3mm hoses that plug into the Festo.
I put a dot of paint near the Festo for the color of the hose. The two close to the wing tube are for the gear doors. The next two in front of the plug are the gear, with the very front one the brakes.
I put a dot of paint near the Festo for the color of the hose. The two close to the wing tube are for the gear doors. The next two in front of the plug are the gear, with the very front one the brakes.
