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Reaction 54 Jet Kit

Old 02-24-2018, 07:24 AM
  #3726  
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Looks good, and your English is fine.

Keep us posted.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:54 AM
  #3727  
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I am almost done with my Hatch / Cockpit. Just need to add pinstripes for simulated panel lines.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:58 AM
  #3728  
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I love the cockpit, is it available somewhere? I have been looking for one. Thanks
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:34 AM
  #3729  
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Originally Posted by mr_matt View Post
I love the cockpit, is it available somewhere? I have been looking for one. Thanks
This is where I got it:

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXENFJ&P=Z

If you are a #1 club member and have some rebates from Tower, you can buy it for significantly less than the official price. I paid around $20 shipped!
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Old 02-24-2018, 03:28 PM
  #3730  
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Looks great and no problem understanding your description!
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Old 02-24-2018, 04:57 PM
  #3731  
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Really kool cockpit. Keep photos coming. Chic
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Old 02-25-2018, 02:55 AM
  #3732  
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yesterday evening I made a break in the building and I began to think about how I will manage to put everithing inside the plane. I am far enough in the building to have a exact idea of each room space available. I have a trend to not read how other people made. Not because I consider they do bad things ( there are for sure a lot of excelent setup posted on rcuniverse made by excelent modelers), but I want a plane reflecting how I imagined it.
Here are some of my final decisions.
The main hatch will be the only one
The fuel system positioning will be radicaly different than the one described in the book.. The main tank will be facing forward, The UAT and fuel pump will be under the levator/rudder servos , the two electrovanes will be in the boat tail.
The fact that I go with a electrical retract and a kero start turbine give me a lot of room space ( no airtank and no gas tank).The ECU will be between F3 and F4
About the retract I honestly have to say that If i had to order ,it now I would prefere to go with a good old classic pneumatic setup. I have read a lot of post from peoples complaining about the reliability of the electrical system, not especialy for the R54 one, but about all the robart electrical retract series. What I will certainly do is to operate the gear on a separate battery pack for safety ( don't want the retract system to drain my rc battery in case a retract is jamed ).
The 3 battery pack will be in the nose. Because everithing will be in the front and I go with a light turbine (p60) I could turn out maybe a bit nose heavy. But correct a heavy nose concern is much more easy than correct a tail heavy plane without adding weight.

That's the general way I'll go

Of course it's not because I have a trend to disreagard how other modelers do and build airplanes how I decided to do. that I don't accept positive criticism. If for any reason you see something wrong in the way I want to go, please share it.

Last edited by SALMONBUG; 02-25-2018 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 02-25-2018, 05:01 AM
  #3733  
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I think you're on the right track. I have 3 battery packs and 8 ounces of lead in the nose of mine. With your lighter turbine your CG should come out about right.

If I were to build another one I'd make the fuse wider to accommodate more equipment up front.

Joe
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Old 02-25-2018, 05:47 AM
  #3734  
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Originally Posted by joeflyer View Post
I I have 3 battery packs

Joe
Thank you for your post, just for my info , did you consider to cut the positive wire of the connection between the receiver and the robart gear control unit ?
Personaly this idea would make me sleep good.

and I would be happy to know the parameters of your 3 batteries ( to make a rough weight estimation), thanks a lot

Last edited by SALMONBUG; 02-25-2018 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:29 AM
  #3735  
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Mine has Prolink electric retracts from Dreamworks, which uses the Xicoy controller. I did not cut the red wire since the controller has a separate plug for power. I'm not familiar with Robart's controller, you should follow their instructions. I used larger than necessary batteries since I needed the nose weight:
ECU Battery - 2S/3600/30C - 210 gm.
Gear/Smoke Battery - 2S/3300/30C - 205 gm.
Receiver - A123/2300 - 190 gm.
8 0z. lead - 225 gm.

My engine is a Jets Munt M90k which weighs 980 gm. I also made a lot of modifications that effect the weight distribution: elevator & rudder servos in the rear, added inlets, smoke system, larger fuel tank,... So your situation will be different. Just be aware that most need to add nose weight to balance a R54. If your interested you can look back in this thread for pictures of my set-up. They were posted in early 2015.

Joe
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:17 AM
  #3736  
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Originally Posted by joeflyer View Post
Mine has Prolink electric retracts from Dreamworks, which uses the Xicoy controller. I did not cut the red wire since the controller has a separate plug for power. I'm not familiar with Robart's controller, you should follow their instructions. I used larger than necessary batteries since I needed the nose weight:
ECU Battery - 2S/3600/30C - 210 gm.
Gear/Smoke Battery - 2S/3300/30C - 205 gm.
Receiver - A123/2300 - 190 gm.
8 0z. lead - 225 gm.

My engine is a Jets Munt M90k which weighs 980 gm. I also made a lot of modifications that effect the weight distribution: elevator & rudder servos in the rear, added inlets, smoke system, larger fuel tank,... So your situation will be different. Just be aware that most need to add nose weight to balance a R54. If your interested you can look back in this thread for pictures of my set-up. They were posted in early 2015.

Joe
again thanks a lot for the info, moving rudder and elevator servo backward is something I considered at the very begining of fuse construction, but I changed my mind and decided to stay in the philiosophy of the design "keep it simple and efficient".
About weight adjunction in the nose, I guess I'll have to do it, but in that case my opinion is that I prefere to put some extra amperes than extra lead in the very very front off the nose. . Off course The final weight will be sligthly higer, But I thruly believe that the very few extra oz won't have a lot off effect. The wingload increase will be nearly unsignificant and won't affect the performances IMAO
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:56 AM
  #3737  
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Originally Posted by SALMONBUG View Post
About weight adjunction in the nose, I guess I'll have to do it, but in that case my opinion is that I prefere to put some extra amperes than extra lead in the very very front off the nose. . Off course The final weight will be sligthly higer, But I thruly believe that the very few extra oz won't have a lot off effect. The wingload increase will be nearly unsignificant and won't affect the performances IMAO
I agree !
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Old 02-25-2018, 01:40 PM
  #3738  
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Looks like you are going in the right direction with the install, as mentioned above. Personalizing a model airplane makes it very unique to the point that you can absolutely say with certainty that there is no other one like your airplane and that is very rewarding because you know you build it

I will be getting my kit from Bruce's shop soon and have set a week a side to start the building it, I have been reading the manual to be ready to start building without delays, will get all the glues and building door soon.

I also will be using a P60, with that in mind I have decided to build it per the instructions but have a minor mod in mind already ( no blind nuts for the retracts mounts ) I will be using air retracts and a combo of digital and analog HS servos.
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Old 02-25-2018, 03:38 PM
  #3739  
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Originally Posted by CARS II View Post
I will be getting my kit from Bruce's shop soon and have set a week a side to start the building it, I have been reading the manual to be ready to start building without delays, will get all the glues and building door soon.

.
lucky you, the R54 is out of stock for months now., you maybe will receive the last one of the batch or you made a special order maybe. I know Bruce well and that's the kind of thing he could do either he is actualy busy on a custom order ( a super hauler ) and also work hard to try to get flyin king and other kits in available. Bruce and me exchange a lot for the moment. I have been involved in a interesting building those last month's (in parralel with my R54 project) and we are actualy discussing about a special design custom order I made to BTE that could turn eventualy to a future new BTE kit., won't tell you more about that project, Bruce will do it if he want after having reading what I just wrotte..

The R54 airframe building is fresh in my mind, don't hesitate to ask any question if problem. The only advise I couls give at this point is start with the wing and follow the booklet : prepare also 5 plastic bag , each one filled with aproximatly 10 lbs sand and sealed.. that's my trick to get a nice wing sheeting..
because I see that you plan to build fast, I suggest that the first thing you do is to make the step one of the fuse subasemblies. it call you to cut and store flat the rudder /elevator cable housing during some week to remove curliness. My cable housing have been stored flat for more than one month and they were still showing some curliness. . So I suggest to store them flat for the maximum time


I had the project to make a very detailed diaporama of the r54 building and I have pictures of all steps of the wing building if you need

phil

Last edited by SALMONBUG; 02-25-2018 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:11 PM
  #3740  
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Thank you Phil, I will remember that if I have any problems with a step.
Yes, I got me the last kit some time ago, yes, I'm planning to fallow the book, I'm not planning any changes to the design, why reinvent the wheel, I'm just going to enjoy the building of it as it was designed, by now we all know Bruce did a very good job designing the Reaction.
I was planing on filling up a few Ziploc bags with sand for the wing step, thank you for the tip on the cable housing.

Last edited by CARS II; 02-25-2018 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:44 PM
  #3741  
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You can straighten out the cable sheath by inserting a piece of music wire in it ( 1/16"?) and passing a heat gun over it for a few minutes. Allow to cool completely. Might take a few tries....

Dave Rigotti
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:59 PM
  #3742  
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Got It!

Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:39 PM
  #3743  
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Originally Posted by rcguy! View Post
You can straighten out the cable sheath by inserting a piece of music wire in it ( 1/16"?) and passing a heat gun over it for a few minutes. Allow to cool completely. Might take a few tries....

Dave Rigotti
Who the heck is this guy??!!
Hi Dave
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:15 AM
  #3744  
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Originally Posted by CARS II View Post
T I'm not planning any changes to the design, why reinvent the wheel, I'm just going to enjoy the building of it as it was designed, .
That's a excelent idea. I own at least one exemplar of each BTE kit, they all fly great and they all assemble with ease. The parts are cut with a diabolic precision and if something doesn't fit as describe in the book, you may consider you have the wrong part in the hands. Think a LOT before sanding a precision cut part !!
That being said the fact you build a stock basic airframe will garantee you to have a real nice stock R54, but why not taking the oportunity that more compact equipement exist now (R54 has been released in 2004 I think) to corect the chronical tail heavy condition by relocating the onboard equipement ?
If you read what I wrotte yesterday and the answers I received you will see that either you plan to use a light p60 turbine (like me) there is a big chance you will have to add lead in the nose.
So what I will do is to move everithing as forward as possible to try to obtain the lightest possible plane and reach as much as possible goal of the designer. Fly a low wing load jet strong trainer that can be take off on most small club grass field and can be land at walk speed
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:40 AM
  #3745  
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How ya doin' Mark! STILL love the R54 and check in every so often!

Dave Rigotti

Originally Posted by causeitflies View Post
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:45 AM
  #3746  
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Build it stock per plans. Fully sheet the wing if your Monokote scheme dictates it. Yes you'll add weight to the very nose...BUT even at 18 pounds+ the JC 60 will push it along VERY nicely AND she'll STILL land at a slow speed. One tip is to cut out the "boat tail" to allow starter motor clearance and move the turbine forward say an inch (25mm) or so.

Dave Rigotti

Originally Posted by SALMONBUG View Post
That's a excelent idea. I own at least one exemplar of each BTE kit, they all fly great and they all assemble with ease. The parts are cut with a diabolic precision and if something doesn't fit as describe in the book, you may consider you have the wrong part in the hands. Think a LOT before sanding a precision cut part !!
That being said the fact you build a stock basic airframe will garantee you to have a real nice stock R54, but why not taking the oportunity that more compact equipement exist now (R54 has been released in 2004 I think) to corect the chronical tail heavy condition by relocating the onboard equipement ?
If you read what I wrotte yesterday and the answers I received you will see that either you plan to use a light p60 turbine (like me) there is a big chance you will have to add lead in the nose.
So what I will do is to move everithing as forward as possible to try to obtain the lightest possible plane and reach as much as possible goal of the designer. Fly a low wing load jet strong trainer that can be take off on most small club grass field and can be land at walk speed
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:57 AM
  #3747  
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Originally Posted by rcguy! View Post
Build it stock per plans. . One tip is to cut out the "boat tail" to allow starter motor clearance and move the turbine forward say an inch (25mm) or so.

Dave Rigotti
mine is build stock per plan with open rib bays ( see pics on the page before), just plan to relocate a bit the internal equipment. drill the boat tail will help to balance, but will also result in a less laminar airflow entering the turbine having for consequence to reduce the centrifugal compressor efficiency .....
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:37 PM
  #3748  
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Installing forward as much as possible are very good points

The UAT will have to be as close to the main tank as much as possible, I may add a second tank forward of the main, things that could go in the nose, the fuel pump, batts, retract valve and servo, break servo and valve, on off switches, jet nose wheel, since the main retracts are so closed to the CG I will be using jet wheels and Robart struts

Last edited by CARS II; 02-26-2018 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:48 PM
  #3749  
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I 'll personaly will remain in the original philosophy of the design. keep it simple. My uat will be under the rudder/elevetor servos and all the rest as forward as possible, but all the equipement will remain basc to save weight.

By the way, I just finished to install the rudder cable housing, what a interstessing moment )) . made it with a radicaly different method than the one given in the manual, but it's fine

Last edited by SALMONBUG; 02-26-2018 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:46 PM
  #3750  
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Hi Salmonbug

I can assure you

"but will also result in a less laminar airflow entering the turbine having for consequence to reduce the centrifugal compressor efficiency ..."

will NOT be an issue. I have built 3 Reactions over the years with the RAM 500, PST 600, and Kingtech 60. All were moved forward by
notching the boat tail to further clear the starter motor. Engine thrust and reliability remained by the book in each case.

Cheers
Dean Wichmann
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