Reaction 54 Jet Kit
#3502
My Feedback: (6)
I disagree with the negative Festo filter advice. Yes, I have heard about folks having leaking issues, but I have used them extensively over the years and never had a leaker. Perhaps I am just lucky. And even if I did have one that leaked, the way they are constructed makes the seams where they must leak rather obvious. A simple smear of epoxy or some other sealant and Presto-Festo, problem solved. The advantage is a nice big filter with a clear casing to view the element thru, with a BIG filtering element surface. I've used the JetCat filter and several others, and they are OK, but the Festo is by far my #1 choice.
#3504
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Holland Patent,
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Woketman,
As stated earlier, I used the Festo 4 mm filter without any problems until I saw a couple with split seams that leaked fuel into the jet. The 6 mm versions seem to be made better and less prone to leakage. Anyway the Jet Cat filter is virtually foolproof (if mounted vertically) and Johnny has the Festo as a spare- a win/win situation..
Rgds,
Art ARRO
As stated earlier, I used the Festo 4 mm filter without any problems until I saw a couple with split seams that leaked fuel into the jet. The 6 mm versions seem to be made better and less prone to leakage. Anyway the Jet Cat filter is virtually foolproof (if mounted vertically) and Johnny has the Festo as a spare- a win/win situation..
Rgds,
Art ARRO
#3510
#3512
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Beaumont,
TX
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Is there something specific you need help with Chic?
The model looks good, and it looks like you have it under control.
Like me, you made a few mods, some I'm familiar with, some not.
What are you planning on painting it with?
I noticed even as glassy as mine was after I finished it, it picked up some woodgrain after a few heat cycles in the sun.
I've done some k&b epoxy painting in the past and never had that problem, but this automotive seems more pliable.
I think the next one I do, which is a scale model, I may fly a while in primer before I finish it.
Keep posting as everyones progress gets me out in the shop piddling with my stuff.
Don't always reply, but enjoy the read.
Les
The model looks good, and it looks like you have it under control.
Like me, you made a few mods, some I'm familiar with, some not.
What are you planning on painting it with?
I noticed even as glassy as mine was after I finished it, it picked up some woodgrain after a few heat cycles in the sun.
I've done some k&b epoxy painting in the past and never had that problem, but this automotive seems more pliable.
I think the next one I do, which is a scale model, I may fly a while in primer before I finish it.
Keep posting as everyones progress gets me out in the shop piddling with my stuff.
Don't always reply, but enjoy the read.
Les
#3513
My Feedback: (15)
Joe, Rfrantz, Les - Sorry for taking my ball and running home, I just thought you guys were not interested in my kit bashing. I know some guys are pure to the bone and build the model as written to the letter. As noted further back in this thread, I love the F-4. As retired Air Force and after getting a ride in one by the Marines in Sicily (as a comm squadron commander, I helped repair their comm gear), one day I hope to build a single or twin powered F-4. Thus the anhedral tail. No immediate questions or needs at the moment but now I know you guys are out there reading and viewing and ready to respond if asked. I'm using KlassKote paints. My first jet was painted with them and it came out beautiful. I'm building a scale model here on RCU under Warbirds (Charles Kellogg TBM Avenger). Hope to take it to the AMA Nationals next summer. Building has been slow due to an accident with an IMAC plane that tried to take three fingers off but after 2 surgeries, I working my way back into the saddle. The work on your planes both by painting/monocote and your equipment installations are outstanding. Can't make Wilson this year, guests in town to ride in Rolling Thunder (motorcycle ride) and tour Washington, D.C. Thanks and greatly appreciate your responses. Felt a little lonely out there. Should finish primer (wings) by next weekend and painting the following week. Thanks again. Chic
Last edited by redtail; 05-22-2016 at 04:31 AM.
#3520
My Feedback: (34)
Yeah the problem is when setting center and endpoints it thinks youre *****g out your endpoints on your trasmitter. So i set my trasmitter to 150% up and down, then set endpoint travel on the hitec programmer HFP-25. After thats done i can set each flap setting in the flap menu on the DX18. If you dont set 150% on your trasmitter it wont work properly. Cause the programmer is looking for MAX endpoint travel. If you have your trasmitter set to 100% thats not the max travel since you can go past that to 150%. Hope you understand my explenation lol
#3521
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Holland Patent,
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Johnny,
Good explanation and glad you figured it out. These are the little details that can frustrate you on your initial setup. Another method would be to slave an unused channel on your DX-18 and equalize the flap movement via the transmitter throws and /or sub-trims. Either way should work. I don't like using Y-harnesses and a reversing Y-harness is a no-no with Spektrum. Keep moving ahead.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Good explanation and glad you figured it out. These are the little details that can frustrate you on your initial setup. Another method would be to slave an unused channel on your DX-18 and equalize the flap movement via the transmitter throws and /or sub-trims. Either way should work. I don't like using Y-harnesses and a reversing Y-harness is a no-no with Spektrum. Keep moving ahead.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
#3522
My Feedback: (34)
Thanks Art,
Yeah i wanted to keep it simple and not tun another two extra wires to the rx. Was a thought ifmi couldnt figure out the programmer. Didnt tske two long after playing with it. Even reveresed one of the servos with the programmer. Very capable unit. Had to cut a notch today to fit the ling 2500 nicad battery for the tems. No big deal and started making some "towers" to mount the three sattelites. Ordered a new fuel jug for the jeta as the current one i use on my bandit uses deisel for my JC Cheetah. Man those jugs are expensive
Yeah i wanted to keep it simple and not tun another two extra wires to the rx. Was a thought ifmi couldnt figure out the programmer. Didnt tske two long after playing with it. Even reveresed one of the servos with the programmer. Very capable unit. Had to cut a notch today to fit the ling 2500 nicad battery for the tems. No big deal and started making some "towers" to mount the three sattelites. Ordered a new fuel jug for the jeta as the current one i use on my bandit uses deisel for my JC Cheetah. Man those jugs are expensive
#3523
My Feedback: (34)
Finished up the radio install and mounted the satellites. Gonna put the wing on and CG it next. Gotta clean up the wiring in the boat tail but I am waiting for the glow plug cable to re solder them and finish tidying up the wiring. Control throws are all set. then gonna go back now and put the C clamps on the clevises that use them or piece of fuel tubing over the ones that dont.. Ordered a new fuel jug. When it gets here I can fire her up. Oh and also gotta finish the tail pipe for the starts.. The tygon it wire tied on the Header just did it after I took the pics
#3524
Looking good. Be sure to arrange your fuel tubing so that JetCat filter is vertical. You don't want to trap a bubble in there. Leaving it loose is fine.
Won't be long now
Won't be long now
#3525
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Holland Patent,
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Johnny,
Like Mark said, get the JetCat filter vertical or near-vertical. You can relocate it closer to the turbine for this. Also safety wire all the non-Festo fuel connections. You may get away at first with fresh Tygon but eventually it hardens and can develop a leak. The goal is ZERO bubbles to the turbine when running. Otherwise looking good.
Will you be bringing your Reaction to the AMPS jet rally in a couple of weeks? A good opportunity to have another set of eyes look over your jet.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Like Mark said, get the JetCat filter vertical or near-vertical. You can relocate it closer to the turbine for this. Also safety wire all the non-Festo fuel connections. You may get away at first with fresh Tygon but eventually it hardens and can develop a leak. The goal is ZERO bubbles to the turbine when running. Otherwise looking good.
Will you be bringing your Reaction to the AMPS jet rally in a couple of weeks? A good opportunity to have another set of eyes look over your jet.
Rgds,
Art ARRO