Reaction 54 Jet Kit
07-08-2016, 10:56 AM
#3601
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Johnny,
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
07-08-2016, 02:01 PM
#3603
My Feedback: (48)
Chic,
I also thought that your inlets looked small. I don't recall what engine you're using, but for my M90 (21# thrust) they recommend 6 sq. in. minimum inlet area. So I made mine 4 sq. in. each to be safe, which works fine. If you're using a smaller engine then obviously you can get away with less.
Be aware that the minimum cross section will determine your effective inlet area. It won't do any good to open up the front of the inlet without also increasing the cross sectional area over the wings. It looks like you'd have to rebuild your inlets.
I think it would be easier for you to leave the existing inlets alone and add a NACA inlet to the top of the fuse duct above the engine, similar to what they do on the PST ARF when using larger engines. See picture.
Joe
I also thought that your inlets looked small. I don't recall what engine you're using, but for my M90 (21# thrust) they recommend 6 sq. in. minimum inlet area. So I made mine 4 sq. in. each to be safe, which works fine. If you're using a smaller engine then obviously you can get away with less.
Be aware that the minimum cross section will determine your effective inlet area. It won't do any good to open up the front of the inlet without also increasing the cross sectional area over the wings. It looks like you'd have to rebuild your inlets.
I think it would be easier for you to leave the existing inlets alone and add a NACA inlet to the top of the fuse duct above the engine, similar to what they do on the PST ARF when using larger engines. See picture.
Joe
07-08-2016, 03:45 PM
#3605
My Feedback: (34)
Thanks Art dont really understand what youre explaining. Is it kind of like adding a trim tab using the xacto as the trim tab??. Also gonna remove the Y because I need some aileron differential as the rolls are not axial. cant do that with the Y. Well might be able to by programming the servo with the servo programmer. Will try that first.. if it doesnt come out right will remove Y and add two more leads to the receiver seperate them.
Johnny,
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
07-09-2016, 03:19 AM
#3607
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Johnny,
Cutting and moving the outboard tip upwards serves as a trim tab to correct any trim problems caused by a warped wing. The tip is just partially scored with an xacto and bent/cracked upwards and retained by a straight pin for test flights. Once the proper deflection is achieved the tip tab can be affixed with CA glue and the pin removed. This technique will correct minor trim problems caused by asymmetrical wings. You just never want to bend/crack the outboard tip downwards as it introduces washin and tip stall.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Cutting and moving the outboard tip upwards serves as a trim tab to correct any trim problems caused by a warped wing. The tip is just partially scored with an xacto and bent/cracked upwards and retained by a straight pin for test flights. Once the proper deflection is achieved the tip tab can be affixed with CA glue and the pin removed. This technique will correct minor trim problems caused by asymmetrical wings. You just never want to bend/crack the outboard tip downwards as it introduces washin and tip stall.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
07-09-2016, 08:49 PM
#3608
My Feedback: (34)
Got it!
Has anyone put a gyro in their reaction?
Has anyone put a gyro in their reaction?
Johnny,
Cutting and moving the outboard tip upwards serves as a trim tab to correct any trim problems caused by a warped wing. The tip is just partially scored with an xacto and bent/cracked upwards and retained by a straight pin for test flights. Once the proper deflection is achieved the tip tab can be affixed with CA glue and the pin removed. This technique will correct minor trim problems caused by asymmetrical wings. You just never want to bend/crack the outboard tip downwards as it introduces washin and tip stall.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Cutting and moving the outboard tip upwards serves as a trim tab to correct any trim problems caused by a warped wing. The tip is just partially scored with an xacto and bent/cracked upwards and retained by a straight pin for test flights. Once the proper deflection is achieved the tip tab can be affixed with CA glue and the pin removed. This technique will correct minor trim problems caused by asymmetrical wings. You just never want to bend/crack the outboard tip downwards as it introduces washin and tip stall.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
07-12-2016, 09:29 PM
#3611
Johnny9390, I was hoping somebody would reply to your question "Has anyone put a gyro in their reaction?" I, for one, would be very interested in hearing about how a gyro might help out in flight. The R54 has a definite tail waggle at lower speeds, especially in the wind. I've never tried to fix that aerodynamically because it's not that big of a deal, but I bet a gyro would get rid of that completely. Keep us updated if you try it...
07-12-2016, 11:18 PM
#3612
My Feedback: (34)
Thanks Bruce,
first I wanna point out that this plane does not NEED a gyro to fly at all! I just want a more locked in feel especially in those windy conditions. I have flown many other jets that don't need gyros but make them fly so much better with them. Even though some people say this is a simple airplane, none the less it is a jet and can get up to some high speeds. It flies just fine as it is. I just wanna make it fly even better. I'm installing the Aura 8 in it and will give flight and video reports when done. It is not to correct the lateral imbalance I have in the wings. I will fix that first by adding a little weight to the non heavy side of the wing. Very little should be needed. And as I mentioned I flew it three times without the gyro and it flew better each time I removed some nose weight. But I did notice that wobble on every flight. I just wanna get rid of that. Don't mean to insult anyone especially you. The airplane is awesome. I do need to ask you for a favor and you can PM me with the bill. I need another heat shield sheet to replace mine that got scorched during first start of the maiden flight. I have already fixed all the monokote. Thought I had an extra heat shield but can't find it.
johnny
first I wanna point out that this plane does not NEED a gyro to fly at all! I just want a more locked in feel especially in those windy conditions. I have flown many other jets that don't need gyros but make them fly so much better with them. Even though some people say this is a simple airplane, none the less it is a jet and can get up to some high speeds. It flies just fine as it is. I just wanna make it fly even better. I'm installing the Aura 8 in it and will give flight and video reports when done. It is not to correct the lateral imbalance I have in the wings. I will fix that first by adding a little weight to the non heavy side of the wing. Very little should be needed. And as I mentioned I flew it three times without the gyro and it flew better each time I removed some nose weight. But I did notice that wobble on every flight. I just wanna get rid of that. Don't mean to insult anyone especially you. The airplane is awesome. I do need to ask you for a favor and you can PM me with the bill. I need another heat shield sheet to replace mine that got scorched during first start of the maiden flight. I have already fixed all the monokote. Thought I had an extra heat shield but can't find it.
johnny
07-13-2016, 03:54 AM
#3613
My Feedback: (1)
I installed an iGyro 3e in my Reaction. Why??? Because I was constantly making bad landings and the plane would bounce with the nose coming up. Each successive bounce got worse resulting in damage to the main gear and more so to the nose gear and fuselage nose. I really got tired of repairing the plane so I put the gyro in. Since then I haven't had a nose high bounce. The gyro is a lot faster than I was and it held the nose down. My landing issues are the result of not slowing down enough and I'm working to correct that but in the mean time, no damage as a result of poor landing technique. In the air the plane is rock steady.
07-13-2016, 05:51 AM
#3614
Square Nozzle, interesting feedback, thanks for the input. I don't recall ever hearing of a gyro being praised as a means of salvaging bounced landings, but I'm glad it helps in that respect too. Johnny, I will stick a heat shield in the mail for you, no problem. I've had my eye on the Aura 8, not for the R54, but for other planes. Have not pulled the trigger yet.
07-13-2016, 07:55 AM
#3615
My Feedback: (19)
I am running a couple of Aura 8's. One in a smaller jet. It too tail wagged at slow speeds and in bumpy air. I used fairly low gains and the only thing I can say is that it makes the jet much more solid and feels like a bigger plane being electronically damped out as compared to physical dampening of a larger plane. I highly recommend trying one. The only downside is that you really need a laptop at the field to make changes and adjustments.
07-13-2016, 11:01 AM
#3616
My Feedback: (34)
Thanks Bruce let me know how much to send you for the heat plate.
Why_fly_high
I dont want to chsnge this thread to Aura 8 install questions can you pm me details of how you installed yours. Im in the process of installing mine and i will be using amsingle wire srxl connected to the Aura. Did you do the same or did you run your servos through the Aura and then to receiver? Was is it kind of self explanitory using the program or learn as you go? I was gonna put a cortex but for 150 bucks less wanted to give the Aura a try
Why_fly_high
I dont want to chsnge this thread to Aura 8 install questions can you pm me details of how you installed yours. Im in the process of installing mine and i will be using amsingle wire srxl connected to the Aura. Did you do the same or did you run your servos through the Aura and then to receiver? Was is it kind of self explanitory using the program or learn as you go? I was gonna put a cortex but for 150 bucks less wanted to give the Aura a try
Square Nozzle, interesting feedback, thanks for the input. I don't recall ever hearing of a gyro being praised as a means of salvaging bounced landings, but I'm glad it helps in that respect too. Johnny, I will stick a heat shield in the mail for you, no problem. I've had my eye on the Aura 8, not for the R54, but for other planes. Have not pulled the trigger yet.
07-13-2016, 11:04 AM
#3617
My Feedback: (34)
Thamks Art i am also gonna double check flap throws to make sure they are equal as i used a programmer to find center and set control deflection throws. Maybe thsts off but then when flaps up the airlerons should be centered since i set up my trims with the dx18 to learn and memorize trims for each flap setting
Johnny,
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
After checking the lateral balance and equalizing it you may want to recheck the aileron trim condition. A simple "trick" is to raise the tip portion, beyond the movable aileron to correct the trim. You may find that you need a lot less deflection here (as compared to the aileron) for trim correction. What I do is run a thin xacto under the tip section and crack it up a bit, then pin it to temporarily fix it in place. Try a couple of flights and "bending" the tip upwards while reducing the aileron deflection. Once you get it trimmed straight and level you can CA the tip in place permanently. I've done this with glow DF and pylon racers and it works well.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
07-13-2016, 11:50 AM
#3618
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Johnny,
You might want to recheck the flap throws and their deflection. This is best done with a pair of straight 10-12" long 1/4" balsa/spruce strips attached to each flap-use masking tape or rubber cement to attach. Be sure that the strips are perpendicular to the hinge line. Flaps should be in the "UP" position to start-wing can be detached from the fuselage if convenient. Deflect the flaps while sighting down the strips from the side. Note any uneven deflection of either flap which may induce a rolling action when deployed. You can correct this by programming the flap servos, re-centering them, or adjusting the linkage geometry-whatever method works best-sometimes multiple techniques are required. The pattern fliers used to go nuts adjusting elevators driven by individual servos especially with adhedral involved. You'll really be happy when both flaps deflect equally and in unison when deployed. Good luck in this trimming process.
Rgds,
Art
You might want to recheck the flap throws and their deflection. This is best done with a pair of straight 10-12" long 1/4" balsa/spruce strips attached to each flap-use masking tape or rubber cement to attach. Be sure that the strips are perpendicular to the hinge line. Flaps should be in the "UP" position to start-wing can be detached from the fuselage if convenient. Deflect the flaps while sighting down the strips from the side. Note any uneven deflection of either flap which may induce a rolling action when deployed. You can correct this by programming the flap servos, re-centering them, or adjusting the linkage geometry-whatever method works best-sometimes multiple techniques are required. The pattern fliers used to go nuts adjusting elevators driven by individual servos especially with adhedral involved. You'll really be happy when both flaps deflect equally and in unison when deployed. Good luck in this trimming process.
Rgds,
Art
07-19-2016, 09:19 AM
#3619
Lateral balance and trim are 2 separate things and neither should be used to compensate for the other. If you add tip weight to compensate for a roll issue then it will only be correct at one specific airspeed, and will work backwards and amplify the problem when inverted. It is the exact same thing as putting in up elevator trim to compensate for nose heavy and then needing a LOT of down elevator for inverted flight.
I use a steel galvanized air duct pipe 8" dia x 36" long for my start tube. It is ugly but it does the job. I push it up to touching the wing and have no EGT issues. When I had a bad fuel solenoid I was getting a lot of very hot starts with flames coming out the end of the start tube and no melted Monokote. I have a wood handle mounted to the tube to pull it out after starting while if is hot. I have the stock heat shield and also covered the whole bottom of the fuse with aluminum tape for good measure. I had one instance while flying on a very windy day while taxing down wind the wind was blowing the heat back to the plane and melted Monokote on the bottom of the fuse. I never try to power away from the start tube anymore I either move the tube or the plane by hand after starting before powering up, applying power will send the start tube flying. Don't ask me how I know.................
08-07-2016, 02:24 PM
#3621
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Hi!
Just wanted to post a picture from my 50th flight. Its still my favourite plane and It impresses me and the spectators when flown downwind at full throttle.and then slown down to a crawl with full flap and gear down upwind. The Jetmunt VT-80 is perfect match with unlimited vertical after 3 minutes of fuel burn. The summer in Norway has not been the best one with lot of wind, but the plane handles wind very well!
Best regards from Svenn
Just wanted to post a picture from my 50th flight. Its still my favourite plane and It impresses me and the spectators when flown downwind at full throttle.and then slown down to a crawl with full flap and gear down upwind. The Jetmunt VT-80 is perfect match with unlimited vertical after 3 minutes of fuel burn. The summer in Norway has not been the best one with lot of wind, but the plane handles wind very well!
Best regards from Svenn
02-09-2017, 10:02 AM
#3624
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Good day!
Got back to building my Reaction this winter. Using Eze-Cote to glass the model
Well the progress is slow but good! - Not rushing the glass job has produced a very smooth fuselage - Had a bit of trouble getting the wings back on today
I think things shrank a tad when you add all that moisture back into the balsa. Just got the wings left to glass then I'll be ready for primer & paint.
Got back to building my Reaction this winter. Using Eze-Cote to glass the model
Well the progress is slow but good! - Not rushing the glass job has produced a very smooth fuselage - Had a bit of trouble getting the wings back on today
I think things shrank a tad when you add all that moisture back into the balsa. Just got the wings left to glass then I'll be ready for primer & paint.
02-09-2017, 12:05 PM
#3625
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Good day!
Got back to building my Reaction this winter. Using Eze-Cote to glass the model
Well the progress is slow but good! - Not rushing the glass job has produced a very smooth fuselage - Had a bit of trouble getting the wings back on today
I think things shrank a tad when you add all that moisture back into the balsa. Just got the wings left to glass then I'll be ready for primer & paint.
Got back to building my Reaction this winter. Using Eze-Cote to glass the model
Well the progress is slow but good! - Not rushing the glass job has produced a very smooth fuselage - Had a bit of trouble getting the wings back on today
I think things shrank a tad when you add all that moisture back into the balsa. Just got the wings left to glass then I'll be ready for primer & paint.
Oops, nevermind. It's Eze-kote with a k.