rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

SJN

If its running and flowing I'd leave it as is. Some guys early on had rear bearing problems, I knew the restrictor was very small compared to an injector and Andy said many were returning with the injectors blocked or blocking because of lack of filters. I was curious to compare, so when I had one of my JJ1400's stripped down I compared the lube flow rates to Behotec, Wren, PT75, JG100. The JJ was about half the rate so I up'd it but used less oil in the mix which in fact delivers the very same amount of oil per second. This was an old idea I had put to the GTBA on lubrication, subsequently over a long period its worked out well and I don't see any degradation of the ceramic bearings when I strip down on a regular basis. Its worth noting other manufacturers use an inline restrictor placed in the clear fuel line and its visible if the lube is not flowing past.

Paul

Ruizmilton

My Feedback: (29)

I started a JJ1400 for the first time two times today, both times it started OK but during the ramp up to idle it coughed and popped quite a lot, second time it was with low light and I could see that everytime it popped a small flame got out and at one time a flame came out between the seam of the exhaust cone and the casing. Once on idle it went OK, but after the event I did not feel confident to bring it to full power. Waht could be causing this? My RAM 500 does not do this at all, could the CC be disintegrating?

fw190pilot

Might try lowering pump ramp a little and see if that helps. Kinda sounds like too much fuel during ramp up.

shorty55

Ive picked up a cheap 3rd hand jj1200, it runs, but there a hotspot in the 12 oclock position which does disappear at highter revs, and flames pop and splutter at idle. I know, what do i expect with a jj never mind an old 1.
I used to have a fine mw54 which ran like a rolls royce so i never had to "tweak" anything, but lossing my job meant i had to sell nearly everything.
Can someone explain exactly all the settings on the fadec, ie fuel ramp, all the delays etc. On the delays for example, increasing the number does what.
Many thanks for a very windy uk, its been windy for months, naffed off with it.
Regards,
Nick.

airbuspilot2

I think that you probably have and old no inconel combustion camber so there must be the problem and not the fadec.

Cheers,

Fernando

Jetjoe dealer for Chile

shorty55

After reading nearly all the posts here im determind to get my engine running better. It starts well, idles and spools up and down just not happy with the hotspot and small blue flame at idle.
My earlier posted quoted that at idle i have a definate hotspot plus a couple of blue flames emerging, probably an 1.5 inches in length,with the occasional popping, these do disappear at higher revs.My engine did run fine until i had to replace the cc. I have just replaced my old 6 stick cc which burnt a whole in the NGV end with another 6 stick cc, 2nd hand but in one piece. Since the rebuild this flame and hotspot issue started. I have sealed outer case where the can joins with the diffuser, new o ring plus silicon. I have tried various fadec settings, cleaned out the fuel ring in a hypersonic cleaner, no blockages but when i run the engine inside i can see a couple of areas where the fuel burns yellow instead of blue, i guess the flame shows too much fuel or not vapourising properly inside the cc. Ive been advised to buy the new cc ,12 stick i believe.
Im going to remove the o ring on the preload as advised next, as inner tube does seem slightly tight.
Has anyone else got any ideas.
Regards,
Nick ( no hair left, and slightly deaf, definately nothing better to do) UK.

fw190pilot

Maybe the needle at 12 oclock is passing more fuel than the others causing rich burn you can test by hooking up low pressure gas to fuel ring and see if they burn even. Try putting fuel ring from old compustion camber and see what happens.

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Nick

I'm your HOMER doppleganger[8D], you might be that next UK JJ champion, as ET is RCuni-banned and I'm against JJ-jetJunk (is that a boat sink her fast) so the only real JJ-expert is Andy Owen, N. Wales flying I here using a jetcat P80 (good man)

I post here to assist only GTBA members (its easy worldwide turbine help) and those who have been duped. National reps who plager my help post here! Also the slime JJ reps who sell JJ Jet-JUNK on mbay as Wren.

GTBA its cheap after JJ No Instructions or support, when then the swirl and sticicks turn Brown? and disappear out the exhaust (its the fcuking WRONG METAL) builders and buyers to remedy.

The great WREN people (love that top lady that SARA) Hey joe remember those
early for emails for help!!

IT WONT GO!! fcuk no expert just a plager, who or when Joe fails (is that inconel!!?? fcuk I'll put some carp instead for those Occidental numptys !)

No QC/QA. Buyer BEWARE, save your cents or pence

Andy I hear is currently lying Jetcat P80, GRAND

I'm WREN now both mw44 or mw54 (my view the mw44 sets world wide unbeatable standards its the FP of turbines!) yes you know all read our tips and help but
MDS-ASP-SC=Jet Junk get an OS-FP it runs and runs

shorty55

I want an old mw44 manual start if you know of any going cheap cos im jobless at the mo.

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

They are as rare a virgins in a brothel, but they do exist! Give it a slight snif of gas to a MW44 and it spools to 60K rpm, runs to 190k then faultlessly runs 850 minutes or abour 100 flights.

Only Gasper can beat that or the top man Gray in the UK.

Get a Turbo Jet (OS-FP) at WREN it just goes and goes.................thats14 hours faultless only thing an exhaust screw came loose. No servicing!!!

Paul

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Thats 200 ltrs 40 gallons?? of jet A1 3% oil, good job its Free fuel and cheap oil

knowcrash

My Feedback: (38)

help,can you please provide me with ecu settings for my
jetjoe 1200. i had it running on the bench and
everything was fine. we put it on the jet and had the
therma coupler in upside down without realizing it.
subsequently we made several adjustments and now it
will not pump kerosene. it fires up and runs on
propane and the kero just starts to pump then it shuts
down with error message bad start. please provide all
starting point settings, especially the rpm settings.
these are way off i know for sure.

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

JetJoe has a US rep that should be able to help?

Dave

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Are you sure you didn't connected the gas and kero lines the opposite way?
Last time i heard a turbine doing the same, the fault was that the kero and gas lines were reversed.
Chris

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Gaspar who makes Joes FADEC's as with Wren and loads of other major turbine manufacturers is I believed a little pissed that JJ simply does not put in a copy of Gaspar's extensive FADEC-ECU instructions. I think Joe has not even have read them as he asked all his questions to the Wren boys to get started. Gasper hints this so...

Problems may arise simply if the last guy or even yourself used a 4 cell pack then you try a 7 cell pack and a different pump, all settings will be slightly out and flames result and a poor start and very hot one.

etc...auto start point, fuel ramp...accel delay...deccel delay..satbility delay..etc etc. Its a Gasper ECU but the JJ manuals do not explain the terms and what it does. It only say in a wren manual not to change this numbers..haahaa...

Depending on hand sensor screen press right top button.

Max revs Check? or enter right value
Mn Revs Check? or enter right value
Max Temp 800oC
Min Temp 100 oC
Adjust transmitter YES or NO.
Accel delay (set to 10)
Decel delay (set to 15)
Stabilty 45-50
Start Ramp %
Auto +1

With good pump and a six cell battery this should get you to idle without too much heat. Move the throttle VERY VERY slowly until the ECU learns gain. If not you to re teach the FADEC's 'fuzzy logic'
A link to my place RCplans guide.com where I have posted a copy of notes for Gaspers FADEC at

http://www.uknets.co.uk/rcplansguide...ndTurbines.htm

PM if this not enough and I'll try again or get onto Gaspar for help.

cheers..
Paul
RCdriver

If it works out give a message back.

Do you want a free copy of Jet Power in English?[8D]

see http://www.rcplansguide.com/

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Cannot load up a PDF to view so here is the text from Gaspar.[:@][:@]

Note All rights are to Nades.net and Gaspar.

Paul
RCdriver

knowcrash

My Feedback: (38)

thanks rc driver. this will help tremendously.

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All

Sorry Gaspar only a little typo! [][][:-] A great friend on line has rightly pointed that Gaspar has no 'e'. Now I could say Fox News has renamed (with George) two countries as 'I' raq and 'I' ran when the BBC and people who acually live their say 'EE' raq and 'EE' ran. But hey EasyTigers not leading on this anymore so I'm safe from Curtis.

cheers Gaspar

Paul
RCdriver

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Turbine Users

Also see Gaspar's turbine site at, its good

http://www.jets-munt.com/

Paul
Rcdriver

airbuspilot2

I am a jetjoe dealer

Hi All,


I have been having poping and flame at idle with my personal JJ-1400 since I have changed the lubrication line. The first lubrication line built in restrictor that come with my engine give to little oil and my bearings fail. Then Joe send me the new lubrication line with a different restrictor and bearing problem completely dissapears (at least for 6 hours and 41 Flight) but I have poping and blue flame at idle, I have tried different Fadec settings and Combustion Cambers but the problem still there, so I have made some test with the lubrication line and this is what I got: Old lubrication line gives 10% of the fuel for bearing and new lubrication line gives 25%, so I think new Lub Line is giving to much fuel/oil to the bearing and probably this is the cause of blue flames at idle but also this is making my bearings cool. So I am going to try a new Lubrication Line without restrictor and I am going to try different restrictors outside the engine so I could test how much fuel/oil is the exact amount that I need to have my bearing cool and wet but my engine stop poping, also I will get better efficient from my fuel. Maybe some here could help and give me some number so I could fine faster a solution and have more time to test in flight for how many hours my bearing will last.

here is a video from fight number 40 of my JJ-1400 powered Stingray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBFVGn0VRfM

This video is my first run of a JJ-1200 MK2 last week http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2LFCJ8xevo

Happy Fyings,

rcdriver22

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Fernando

Early Joes restictor was sometimes 'too fine a restrictor' and rear bearings got hot and dry then failed. Sometimes numptys users failed to triple filter their dirty fuel or allowed pump rubbings into the restrictor lube line. Result failed rear bearings. It may surprise you and some others that I have an even higher flow through the lube line as I run it on halve the oil, to reduce the content by 50% but yet per second, deliver the same amount of oil onto the ceramic uncaged bearings.

You are so right cool and NOT too wet bearings will last for .............................................

The poping and flames may also be in addition, be the FADEC hunting slightly, NAFF pumps that have not been run in or rebed after long use, by emering into water and running the bushes round (please seal completely the pump with a short return tube if you try this) Also try moving the turbine round say 10 degrees at a time to see if its one sticks.

Paul
RCdriver

airbuspilot2

[quote]ORIGINAL: rcdriver22

Hi Fernando

Early Joes restictor was sometimes 'too fine a restrictor' and rear bearings got hot and dry then failed. Sometimes numptys users failed to triple filter their dirty fuel or allowed pump rubbings into the restrictor lube line. Result failed rear bearings. It may surprise you and some others that I have an even higher flow through the lube line as I run it on halve the oil, to reduce the content by 50% but yet per second, deliver the same amount of oil onto the ceramic uncaged bearings.

You are so right cool and NOT too wet bearings will last for .............................................

The poping and flames may also be in addition, be the FADEC hunting slightly, NAFF pumps that have not been run in or rebed after long use, by emering into water and running the bushes round (please seal completely the pump with a short return tube if you try this) Also try moving the turbine round say 10 degrees at a time to see if its one sticks.

Paul
RCdriver

Hi Paul,

Thank for reply, I have tested the turbine in my plane and my test bench, different pump, fadec and setup, turbine made the same, also I have changed the CC but nothing, so I will try to modify lubrication line on monday and see what happens with poping and flaming. Anyway I could fly without problem with the turbine like this but I want to fine tunning my engines and make them more fuel efficient.

Could you let me know if you have messure how much fuel goes to bearing and fuel ring?????????

Thank again,

airbuspilot2

Hi All,

I tried a restrictor that give me 16% of fuel to lube the bearing and the poping and flames has gone so now I have to flight my stingray to see for how long my bearing last

Happy Flying,

airbuspilot2

Hi,

If your JJ-1400 is new I think that your CC is inconel and there is no problems there, when a turbine is new and fadec is new too, there is some poping at the first start because fadec is learning throttle curves. If the problem about poping and flames is still there after the turbine has run for a few time since idle to full, I will suspect that there is too much fuel going for lubrication, if the poping is not too much, just at idle and the turbine accelerate ok, just live it like this but if not you may tried using a restrictor in the lubrication line. Anyway if you dont know what are you doing this could distroy your bearing.

I am a JetJoe dealer and I give guarantee repairs to turbines that I sell, but if you need help you may send the turbine to me, I will test run and let you know what you need to fix it.

shorty55

What kind of "restrictor" can you fit and how do you test the flow of fluid to the lubricator versus the fuel nozzles?

Regards,
Nick uk ( still trying to get blood from a stone)