jescardin

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Raknin:

There is also an Argentinean company, TNT Models, which produces a "clone" version although modified for tractor fan (Ramtec or Dynamax), said to be of best efficiency. Here I include a link to their web page (please, note you should confirm prices with them as I quite sure they are on Argentinean Pesos):

http://www.tntmodels.com.ar/Modelos/jetsEscala.php

As I have one of this F-16 kits I intend to convert to turbine power I may confirm you it is a very complete and competitive model, only point I didn't liked was the used plywood quality. Other than that, excellent reinforced and light fiberglass fuselage and balsa sheeted wings, stabs and rudder. The kit includes decals for the F-16 prototype, pilot figure and detailed cockpit.

If you were interested on partially build model, I have a good friend from Menorca Island (Spain) which is trying to seld his due to lack of time for finishing it for a very interesting price. You may check photos or even contact him as per below link:

http://www.miliamperios.com/foro/viewtopic.php?t=40918

Hope I helped you.

Jesus Cardin

jescardin

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In the other hand:

Wayne, what about your F-16?. You finished the thread advising your inmediate flight but we all know nothing new from you. Hope everything went well and now you are an expert Viper pilot.

Best Regards

Jesus Cardin

chrigui

VERY GOOD!!!

A ducted fan in a BIG TURBINE PANORAMA!!!

ciao

lowell

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does anyone know of any one that might have a starting wand for a byrojet set up that they no longer need and would like to sell?

jettset99

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Put a weston pipe bvm mix control and use mccoy#9 plugs ,use a sigle tank I use a 32 oz soda bottle, and a robart super filler(black tear drop one) so to keep the motor from flooding,dual elevator servos conected the stabs is a must.I learned to fly on a Byron F16 one of the best flying ducted fans.

AFTERBURNER1

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And you still fly like you are flying the ducted fan!!! Putt Putt Putt!

AFTERBURNER1

My Feedback: (80)

Use Byron sport 15% fuel with 1 oz of turbine oil mixed in it.... A little trick I learned from Larry Wolfe... Makes the .91 run GREAT!!!!

grbaker

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You can probably get one from Iron Bay.

darthvaj

Can you get a picture of the gear spreader bar. I have a Bryon F-16 but did not get the spreader bar

Thanks for the help

Mark

ianober

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Starting wands are also available through Yellow Aircraft.

Dougy, is that 1 ounce per gallon of turbine oil?

USSCAT

Hi Guys,

Need a bit of help! I have recently purchased a Byron F16. The previous owner had never flown the bird. It has the full circle yoke for the elevator with the servo sitting in the back, I am not sure how the linkage is setup, but I'll make sure is not the pop-off type. It has OS 91 with probably a gallon or so fuel through it. It is setup with two saddle tanks which each have a pressure tap from the pipe. Both tank lines are coupled in to the carb. The aileron servos are attached kind of ugly on each wing. It was set up with fixed gear, which I intend to replace with retracts. Here is where you guys come in I have a manual that i got off the web but no plans:

1- where and what do you install the main retracts to?
2- wanted to remove the servos off the wings and move it inside, but I have read good and bad things about it, so I am on the fence, Comments?
3- I wanted to set the engine upright, any thoughts? has anybody done that?
4- I wanted to set up gear doors, but not sure about about the cheater hole closure, your thoughts?
5- What would you use to make the gear doors from, material?
6- I also want to refinish it, current paint is not fuel proof, got some on it and it is tacky in several places, plus paint job is not that good, So does anyone have the decals that would go with it? I am going to use the red/white/blue scheme.
7- If you have a set of plans, can you send it to me,, I will get it scanned and retrun it to you, I will pay for all shipping costs?

I would really appreciate your comments.

Terry Holston

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First off there were never any plans for the Byron F-16s. Only drawings, showing locations of various systems. Saddle tanks are good.

The Byron retract system was mounted to big Aluminum brackets bolted to the wing shelf, with a spreader bar of aluminum crossing behind the engine for the mains.

Best to get rid of the Yoke. use a servo on each side for each stab. The last Byron version used 2 servos mounted in the shelf inboard for the stabs with a piece of plywood glued to the stab and pointing straight down from the stabs with the pushrod attached. Kinda ugly but it worked. If this is your first jet maybe you oughta keep the fixed gear and learn how to fly it, then get retracts later.

If the wing servos are in the wings.............leave 'em there.

Forget gear doors on the mains. they will keep ypour thrust down. Ok on the nose tho.

The engine will not fit upright with Byron retracts. If you design your own mounting for them then it could be mounted up right, but then you would need a hatch on top,etc..... best to leave it alone.

If the PAINT GETS STICKEY with fuel try washing it off with lac thinner. wear rubber gloves.

I had 5 of them back in the day. all flew great. Fastest one I had was about 125 MPH.

USSCAT

Terry,

Thankyou, for the info. You wouldn't happen to have a copy of the drawings, would you?
Since the mounting brackets did not come wiht the plane, do you have a picture of one that shows how it was installed?

The yoke is gone.... Thankyou.
I will leave the sevos in the wing, I may turn them over where only the servo horn would stick out.


Again, thankyou for the info.

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

Here are a couple of pics showing the retract mounting & associated aluminum brackets. There is a piece of ply glassed into the fuselage where the bracket mounts to the fuse.

USSCAT

Countryboy,

Thanks for the pictures. Do you have the aluminum spreader bars that Terry was talking about there somewhere?
How thick is the aluminum bar, looks to be 3/16?
Is there a way to trace the angles or shape of the bracket without too much trouble?

Thanks a bunch.

Terry Holston

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The Aluminum spreader bar goes between the holes in the gear that have no bolts in them in the above pictures. It is just 1/16" thick aluminum about 3/8" wide and long enough to reach between the holes behind the engine under the exhaust. The aluminum mounting plates that the gear is bolted to were made by Byron and were tempered. Very tough to bend! I used the same set in several different aircraft and still never bent one out of shape. I can't say the same for the rest of the planes tho. LOL.

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

There was no aluminum spreader bar with this F-16 when I purchased it. As for getting a pattern for the brackets, I could easily enough trace it out if you think you want to have a go at making your own. The brackets are 1/8" thick and as Terry said....very strong.

USSCAT

Countryboy/Terry,

Thanks for the help.

Countryboy, it would be great if you can trace the bracket, scan and post it here. I work for an aerospace company and have access to scrap T6061 spacecraft aluminum and the ovens to temper the parts.

I tried firing the engine, did not have much luck. I pinched the fuel line, but it still backed up and would not turn easy. I had to remove the plug, pinch the line, replace and start again. The fuel sort of gushes toward the carb on its own. I may have to use the hopper tank and see if that would limit it. Do you guys know if the hopper tank has to be raised level to the carb?

Again, thankyou both for your help.

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

I have no way to scan at the present, but it you want to PM me your snail mail, I can trace and mail it to you.

Ronnie

Countryboy

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I tried firing the engine, did not have much luck. I pinched the fuel line, but it still backed up and would not turn easy. I had to remove the plug, pinch the line, replace and start again. The fuel sort of gushes toward the carb on its own. I may have to use the hopper tank and see if that would limit it. Do you guys know if the hopper tank has to be raised level to the carb?

It was not uncommon to see the Byron F-16 flipped on it's back for starting purpose. Loosening the glow plug helped until the engine fired and then re-tighten the plug once it was running. A hopper would function best if kept on centerline to the carburetor. A Tettra shutoff valve installed in the feed line would be an asset, and keep you from having to pack a pair of hemostats around to pinch off the fuel line.

USSCAT

Counrtyboy,

I got the bracket sketch today, thankyou. I will see if I can put this on CAD and post it. otherwise, I will scan yours and post it for others that may want it later.

Again, Thankyou

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

Oh God, don't do that !!! Drawing is not one of my fortes. [:'(]



Actually, I'm glad I could help out. The Byron F-16 (or any other jet for that matter) just does not look right with the gear hanging out. It's not like the Byron F-16 is the most efficient thing aerodynamic wise, so it needs all the help it can get.

USSCAT

Countryboy,

You got to admit, the F-16 looks pretty sharp. I wished I could put gear doors on it and make it a bit more scale, oh well.

I put a 8 oz round hopper tank in the bird, I have to make some sort of holding cradle to suspend it in line with the carb. I am hoping to run the engine this weekend, weather and wife permitting

I sent an email to Ironbay to see if they have the brackets, decals, drawings etc., I got a message back saying they are busy with the commercial side of their business and will get back to me later ??? I am not sure what else they do, but I was a bit disappointed at their response. May be I should call them .......

Have a great weekend

USSCAT

CountryBoy/Terry,

I tried to put a servo on its side in the wing, well the servo is too thick so I was looking inside the wing shelf to see if the previous owner had installed the hardware for the aileron linkage. All I see is a round plastic (Delrin??) that is screwed in to a Plywood piece in three places. There is nothing else. The aileron has a brass tube installed in it. So I am trying to figure out how to set up the bird for aileron linkage. Do you guys have a picture of the mechanism? I probably can make something out of Aluminum.

I would appreciate any comments that you may have.

Thanks,

Terry Holston

My Feedback: (1)

That round Delren part is supposed to have another delren part with an arm on the inside and a square hole that snaps into the center big round piece you have, your aileron servo is attached with a short pushrod to the arm. The aileron has another delren piece that is square on one end and is pinned to the brass tube in your aileron. Makes for plug in removable wings without having to unplug the servo wires. You had to be careful putting the wings on so as to not push the center of the delren arm out inside the fuselage, this not getting the servos hooked to the wings. I remember having to reach inside the fuse (Beside the thrust tube) to push that darn arm back in place mucho many times. Then having to wipe the grease and goo off my hand and arm. Turbines are way better than slimmer in this reguard, LOL