Updating the Byron MiG 15
10-11-2002, 04:37 PM
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Updating the Byron MiG 15
I agree with you 100% there, I already have a Byron F-18 and I know what the hardware is like, nothing I would use even in a D/F setup. I'm pretty much just going to be using the fuse and the flying surfaces in building.
10-11-2002, 04:50 PM
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DF Ducting
Hi Brian
We can supply you with the complete area ruled ducting set designed for the Ramtec fan. Please let me know if your interested.
We're also working on a turbine ducting set for the Trim kits. We may be able to do something to match up with the DF ducting to reduce your conversion work later.
Sincerely,
Ed
We can supply you with the complete area ruled ducting set designed for the Ramtec fan. Please let me know if your interested.
We're also working on a turbine ducting set for the Trim kits. We may be able to do something to match up with the DF ducting to reduce your conversion work later.
Sincerely,
Ed
10-11-2002, 07:09 PM
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Updating the Byron MiG 15
If you have the aluminium spar system, then it is one of the latest versions.
The early ones had a wood spar arrangement that got fuel soaked with the Byron fan and would fail after a few years.
That aluminium spar system is strong enough for the turbine, too.
All the TGA jets use the same style of wing attachment. They are plenty strong.
Don't add 3/32 balsa sheeting to the wing, that will change the airfoil. Just do the .014x1/2" cf strip I mentioned in the earler post and then cover with cf tissue/ 2oz glass and epoxy (Both in the same coat.
See my web site for a method of doing all in the same operation. It is the lightest glass system, too.
Oh, and I would still make the wings removable. Saves a bunch of hanger rash, and repairs are easier to do.
Have fun!!!
The early ones had a wood spar arrangement that got fuel soaked with the Byron fan and would fail after a few years.
That aluminium spar system is strong enough for the turbine, too.
All the TGA jets use the same style of wing attachment. They are plenty strong.
Don't add 3/32 balsa sheeting to the wing, that will change the airfoil. Just do the .014x1/2" cf strip I mentioned in the earler post and then cover with cf tissue/ 2oz glass and epoxy (Both in the same coat.
See my web site for a method of doing all in the same operation. It is the lightest glass system, too.
Oh, and I would still make the wings removable. Saves a bunch of hanger rash, and repairs are easier to do.
Have fun!!!
10-19-2002, 07:05 PM
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Updating the Byron MiG 15
HI GUYS AT THE MOMENT THE MIG15 WE PRODUCE IS VERY SIMILAR TO THAT OF THE BYRON AND ITS BEEING PRODUCED FOR TURBINE OUR FUZS ARE ALOT STRONGER (BUT NOT HEAVIER) ALL THE FORMERS ARE INTERLOCKING TO GIVE EXTRA STRENGTH , AS WITH THE MIG THERES LOADS OF ROOM NONE STANDERED TANKS , YES WITH THE BYRON THERE FUZS ARE WEEK BUT YOU CAN STRENGTHEN THEM UP QUITE EASILY . THIS MODEL WILL BE AVALIBLE VERY SOON IF YOU ARE INTERSTED CONTACT ME ON [email protected] our formers would probably fit your byron
YOURS RSJETS
YOURS RSJETS
10-21-2002, 09:04 PM
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Some progress
Well, I just wanted to post some info about my progress with the Mig.
In this picture you can see the elevator servo mounted partially up into the fin. It's mounted to two formers that I made. Two 4-40 rods are connected and will be soldered to a third which attaches to the control arm with a heavy duty ball link. The servo is a 645 MG and I think it should provide sufficient torque for the elevators.
The foam fin former is in there just to test the rod movement, I am going to add a wood plate to the aft portion of it.
For the rudder, I am going to use a pull-pull system as suggested earlier in this post. It should work well.
In this picture you can see the elevator servo mounted partially up into the fin. It's mounted to two formers that I made. Two 4-40 rods are connected and will be soldered to a third which attaches to the control arm with a heavy duty ball link. The servo is a 645 MG and I think it should provide sufficient torque for the elevators.
The foam fin former is in there just to test the rod movement, I am going to add a wood plate to the aft portion of it.
For the rudder, I am going to use a pull-pull system as suggested earlier in this post. It should work well.
10-21-2002, 09:07 PM
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Updating the Byron MiG 15
Here you can see that the hole in the bottom of the fuse has been closed up. I used mylar taped around the fuse with wax paper between the mylar and fuse and fiberglassed. It worked very well and I am happy with the results, the outside of the fuse has perfect shape.
I cut the top hatch first in order to make closing the hole easier. I have also made new 1/4 inch ply formers for the wings and engine to mount to.
I am going to lay in CF tape around the fuse at the main former to add some strength and rigidity to the fuse. The formers that have been added to the rear for the elevator servo have stiffened the rear of the fuse quite nicely.
I cut the top hatch first in order to make closing the hole easier. I have also made new 1/4 inch ply formers for the wings and engine to mount to.
I am going to lay in CF tape around the fuse at the main former to add some strength and rigidity to the fuse. The formers that have been added to the rear for the elevator servo have stiffened the rear of the fuse quite nicely.
03-15-2003, 01:57 AM
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Updating the Byron MiG 15
I'm trying to rebuild a MIG, and have no original kit plans. Would you be able to tell me how to hook up the fuel valve/lines? I don't think they used pressure.
Dick Hoke, [email protected]
Dick Hoke, [email protected]
03-15-2003, 02:56 PM
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Byron MIG 15 fuel system
Originally posted by dhoke
I'm trying to rebuild a MIG, and have no original kit plans. Would you be able to tell me how to hook up the fuel valve/lines? I don't think they used pressure.
Dick Hoke, [email protected]
I'm trying to rebuild a MIG, and have no original kit plans. Would you be able to tell me how to hook up the fuel valve/lines? I don't think they used pressure.
Dick Hoke, [email protected]
just use a 32oz soda bottle 2 line feed / pressure system - works great - simple - no leaks and no lean runs.
I do not know how to make the drawing larger when you click on it - maybe some one can tell me how to do it.
Jackjet
03-13-2017, 06:43 PM
#37
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I have the original manual, My Mig is still hanging in shop rafters, the nose ring is split in two pieces but I could cut it off of fuse, your welcome to it, I would only want to not incur any expenses for mailing items for your inspection and copy then you can return the manual.
11-07-2017, 12:51 AM
#40
I recently got a Byron MiG 15 pushed in my hands with the message, 'it would be nice to see it fly again, see what you can do with it'.
So I started with a conversion for turbine
Model will not be a scale model but a nice sport jet scale.
Greetz,
Berto.
So I started with a conversion for turbine
Model will not be a scale model but a nice sport jet scale.
Greetz,
Berto.
Last edited by RemoteJets; 11-07-2017 at 12:56 AM.
11-07-2017, 02:16 PM
#42
The Kingtech K45G would be enough but because of the same size the K70G will also suit fine with just some restricted trust.
But maybe I am installing a Kingtech K80G, this one is just a little heavier and a little bigger then the K45/70.
I prefer the K80G this because of my future project, then I can make a twin instead of a single turbine F/A-18A
But maybe I am installing a Kingtech K80G, this one is just a little heavier and a little bigger then the K45/70.
I prefer the K80G this because of my future project, then I can make a twin instead of a single turbine F/A-18A
