Pitts-SPS

Can anyone give me some advice on the best radio setup for my new Rookie MKII.
I am thinking: -

1 x JR8611 on Canards
4 x JR8411 on elevons
2 x JR8411 on rudders
1 x Jetronic valve for retracts
1 x Jetronic brake valve
1 x ECU
1 x independant cut-off

3 x JR Multiboxes (Rudders and elevons)

Open to any suggestions.....
I have heard that you can get away with on 2 servos for the elevons???

What about control throws..

Thanks.

Airforce7

My Feedback: (31)

I've got a New Rookie nearly complete. I wont be flying until I get my Robart nose gear, which I bought back in June, still waiting to get it!!![&o]

Here's what I've done with my JR9303:

1 x JR8611 on canards
4 x JR8411 on elevons (w/ matchbox)
2 x JR8231 on rudders (w/matchbox y'd to nose steering)
1 x Robart valve w/ HS-85MG for retracts
1 x MiniHobbies proportional brake valve
1 x JR8231 on speed brake
1 x JR8611 on thrust vectoring
1 x JR8231 on nose steering

You can fuse the ailerons and elevator together and use one servo per wing. I just bought enough equipment to use the control surfaces either way. Canards are supposed to be setup +/- 20-25mm up/down, but everyone seems to be starting with lower throws, which are about +/- 10mm up/down. I have not yet begun to mix the servos on my 9303 yet, but will this month. The CG supposedly moved forward, which has been confirmed in other posts to be 130mm.

For those who have flown their new rookie already, I'd also be interested in knowing what they set their throws on the elevons, including dual rate.

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

I used (1) 8611 on the canards, and (4) 8411's on the elevons. Lots of people say you can get away with two 8411's and tie the elevon halves together, but I personally think an extra $200.00 for the extra two servos on the elevons is pretty cheap insurance, and not much additional weight. I have never used anything stronger than a standard bbJR servo on the rudders and it seems to work fine. I would use a metal geared servo on both the speed brake and the nose wheel steering, however since they take a lot of abuse. Everything else sounds fine to me.

Control throws: I ended up with about 1/2 the recommended travel on both ailerons, and elevons - but then I don't do 3D either. I set my canards to match the eyebrow curvature on the fuse, and then have 20mm up, and 15 mm down with the elevons - remember to set the elevons opposite of the elevon travel, ie. the canards trailing edge should go 20 mm down for up elevator, and 15 mm up for down elevator. Make sure the CG is 130 mm in front of the wing tube. Balance laterally and you'll be good to go. One other thing, I set my elevons for about 1/16" up (measured against the trailing edge of the wing) for normal hands off flying - that's about where all my Rookies ended up when in trim.

Good luck with your bird. I'm sure you'll enjoy it, I sure have enjoyed mine, and this is my 4th one - so far, the best.

Regards, Les

siclick33

I would do away with the multibox's on the elevons. I was worried about this on my Roo but decided to go without them. If you are half careful with the geometry then the control throws will come out close enough not to bother.

I don't know what engine you have, but in hindsight, with my P80, I would go with one 8611 per side on elevons. My biggest nightmare was battery power. I ended up with two huge RX batteries. If I did mine again I would probably go with non-digital on the rudders as well as only having one servo per elevon and remove one of the RX packs to save weight.

If you use the Jettronics valve on brakes, then make sure you have a seperate air supply. It works by cycling the air pressure and will deplete an air tank in seconds if not fully on or fully off.

I think that these types of model can get overcomplicated very easily. I like simple (a bit like me)

Q8SABRE

My Feedback: (3)

Gentlemen,
what is the best landing gear for this airplane? main & nose
thanks

jettset99

My Feedback: (7)

Hi Go with Robart! dont foreget to tow in the wheels!!! I had a hell of a time trying to take off with them not towed in enough.Didnt get to test fly her but I will next monday,I have 8611 one per wing one on the Canards and some Hitec Mgs on the rest,,, rudders and speed brake,steering.

KFalcon

My Feedback: (18)

Paul is right, a few degrees of toe in will make a world of difference in the ground handling. I think one 8411 per wing is fine, just join the elevons. Had a million flights with my original Rookie with this set up. The new Rookie does look awesome!

specialFX

My setup is as follows:
4x HS-5945 on elevons, y´ed on each side
2x HS-5625 on rudders, y´ed
1x HS-5945 on canard
1x HS-5945 on thrust vectoring
1x HS-945MG on airbrake
1x HS-645MG on nosewheel
2x HS-81MG for retract valve and brake valve

As the Hitec digitals are programmable, there is no need for matchboxes .

Dual receiver-pack 2x2000mAh NiMH, 3s2220 TANIC for ECU.
I bought a set of Behotec C-36/2 complete with wheels, brakes struts and installation material, these parts are a work of art, top notch german quality.

regards
Thomas

Pitts-SPS

Does anyone know the correct position of the plastic washers used on the canards? Do they go between the canards and the fuselage or between the metal joiner and the carbon fiber outer tube ?

avicom

My Feedback: (14)

There is no need of machbox for the rudders since tey are two diferent booms. In the elevons is diferent story because you got two servos figthing eachother in the same surface. Other example is when ganged two or more servos in line or side by side for one area in specific like the rudder in aerobatic planes bigger than 28%. And this is when you like to use the machbox.

specialFX

Hi Pitts-SPS, the washers are ment to be between the metal joiner and the carbontubes.

Thomas

jetrookieman2

Hay dude i use the JR 12x bit pricey but when it's thunsands whats a few more

BaldEagel

Pitss SPS

I put them between the canard and the fus, this allows room them to rotate down 85deg to act as airbrakes, they are only needed between the carbon rod and metal joining attachement if you have cut the carbon bearing tube inaccuratly and have play in the linkage from side to side which may bind.

avicom

The elevons are not one surface they are two surfaces on either side, so the servo's are not fighting each other mechanically, you just have to ensure that the movements are equal.

Mike

avicom

My Feedback: (14)

And now you tell me? Why took you so long?

Alex

jetrookieman2

well the rookie is dead heavy piece of sh*** tip stalled in Got a Boomerand moving on

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

My first jet a Kangaroo had four 8411 per spec, mechanically matched sort of,
A friend used four Hitec 645MG , on 6V, on his Rookie flying with 8 lbs more thrust with no issues.

Later on a Rookie II I joined the elevon segments...not matchbox or digital servo programming required.
I fitted balsa aileron stock inside the elevons, about 6" long (150mm) then glued in place.
Fitting was sanding to adjust wedge angle as well as taper
Glueing was a trick pushing it from the split of the elevons into the inboard segment then align the two, then into the outboard.
A long wood dowel was my push tool had a stopline to get 3" in per elevon.
And a 1/4 x 3/4 x 8" hardwood, fitted to match steps/taper, and glued and screwed it to the open/inner face of the elevons.
Four screws held the wood in place while the Hysol cured.
As I recall a JR 8611 0r 8711 servo was used 1 per elevon.

Bob

BaldEagel

Tip stalled in or bounced and tip stalled?

Mike

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

I once stalled my Roo after adding canards...it fell straight through, never seen one "tip stall".

They would bounce, AKA the Kangaroo hop, from landing too fast and dropping the nose tooo soon.

The 3 or 4 hops and the nose gear would hit first and bend/break of fail the mount in the fuse.

Landings a easy with canards, they will hold the nose off as the jet slows.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I flew my rookie three times yesterday and finally got the landings dialed... thanks Roberto! Can't wait to start playing with the vectored thrust.


Mike, how do you mix the canards for landing. you said 85 degrees down? I've read about it in the past, what does the plane do when you flip that switch?

ikoppel

A bit of information about the radio mixes would be very useful indeed, I'm starting my Rookie 2 build next week and plan to proceed as fast as possible.

BaldEagel

Guys

I am in France at the moment and unable to access my Tx to give a definitive answer, will get back to you when I return to the UK, but in the first instance if you get the mix to act immediately i.e. canards down quickly the trim change is minimal, the increase in lift will make the Rookie balloon at first, but it will soon settle down and increase its rate of decent until you can slow it right down for landing, the main problem with the Rookie is landing too fast on the nose leg first, this will bounce it back up in the air to the inevitable tip stall and wing landing that all talk about.

Mike

jetrookieman2

Keep it light there a pig of a jet
Don't madien with a full tank bad mistake if your on grass
servo's go good but lite motor 120 better off
good luck with it
im going boomerang now

ikoppel

I have Nano and FB L-39 ,now decided to try something 3D capable..
I'm going with Merlin 140, jet 1-A gear, 3.2L tank, and plan to use the powerbox igyro.
I havent decided on elevon servos- wether to glue the elevons together and use 2 graupner 9818 monster servos (405N/cm), or 4 smaller servos.
Are you suggesting to keep it more tail heavy for easier landings?
Fortunately I have unlimited runway - 2000m x 60m , former military airfield.


All the best,
Ivar