Buffy

Hi everyone
Can anyone help a desperate man!? I am desperately trying to find/locate an accurate set of drawings for the Su35 (or Su27 Flanker, it doesn't really matter)... I have just about every major book on the plane, but none of them contain cross section drawings. I have the Bertella plans, which don't really show enough accurate information for my needs. Any help, any suggestions, any thing at all! would be most gratefully accepted. I know of a guy in Germany who is building a beautiful Su27, but he doesn't answer he email (may be a bad link or possibly he doesn't speak English - my German is not good!). I have tried Ken Duffey but again, no answer.
Thanks in anticipation.[]

bela

I know what you mean! LOL! I too tried to get cross sections for my project but had your same experience. send me your email and I think I may be able to help you.

Yann

I think I have what you need...
Email me.

Yann

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

If you feel like sharing, I would really appreciate cross sections or what you have also.

Thanks,

Kelvin.

Yann

I can share my files, but I need you Email addresses.
To post these files here, I would have to lower their quality and change the files format.
I would be better for you if I Email them.
For the SU27, we are talking of 19MB on 17 files describing the different versions, cross cuts...

Yann

bambam102

I would love to see those files as well, please send to [email protected] thank you so much!!!

Yann

bambam102, it's done... check your Email box...

Yann

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

[email protected]

I appreciate it very much, thanks.

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hello Yann
Je construit un SU35 de chez AD, aurais tu qq chose concernant cet appareil et surtout ses differentes décorations.
Merci
Stan

Yann

Sorry, just SU27, SU33 and Mig 29. Those three are very close designs.

harald huf

hi Buffy, sent you an email.
Harald

Yann

How to make accurate crosscuts:
first you get the plastic model and you build it up
(1/48 is a good scale).
Then you inject polyurethane foam everywhere inside,
and you let it cure and expand.
You then clean the excess of foam before you gently
slice the model up like bacon.
The foam will keep the bits together.
You just then have to photocopy or scan your
crosscuts, and scale them up.

Buffy

Hi Yann, this sounds good.... which kit would you recommend.. I have read somewhere the Academy one is accurate? Does anyone know if this is the case, or are there better ones? Some plastic kits are totally off the mark, arent't they?

DanSavage

My Feedback: (5)

Yes, this is a good way, too. The only problem with it is that after you're done, the model is destroyed and if you need additional cross-sections, you'll need to buy another model.

I prefer using a contour gauge as it preserves the model for future uses.

Dan

Yann

Dan,

contour gauge is fine, but at that scale I'm affraid is not accurate enough. Who cares about 10 or 20 euros plastic model...
If you go that route, it's to make at least a 1000euro mould...
Furthemore, it is hard to assure perfect perpendicularity of the contour gauge, while taking a shape...


Buffy,

Sorry, I don't know if your plastic kit is good or not.
It would be best to ask pro guys.
Or for the price of one of those kit, you could just buy a bunch and compare them with some good drawings.

Yann

DanSavage

My Feedback: (5)

To each his own. I was only offering an alternative suggestion that's worked well for me.

Buffy,

FWIW, there is no 100%-accurate plastic model of the Flanker on the market. They all contain errors of one sort or another, Academy included.

The only way to know for sure where this error is applied is to get a ruler and start measuring, then compare those results to the actual airplane.

Same for drawings. They're only as accurate as the man who drew them. The only way to know where they might have made mistakes means you must get a ruler.

Dan

Yann

Dan,

Nerver said contour gauge doesn't work.
I think, as you blow up the shape taken with your gauge, you also blow up the scale of the gauge pins. It doesn't sound as accurate as the blown up original shape...

Yann

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

I spent forever looking for cross sections as well. This is all I found, which is a large page scanned in 4 sections. You'll have to use a graphics program to overlay the four scans correctly. RCU won't take all four pics at once so I'll load them in 4 parts.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

2nd one.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

3rd one.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

4th one.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

This site has many cross sections of Russian planes, but not the SU-27/35:

http://www.ipclub.ru/arsenal/hardware/draws/

Another site: http://www.aviacherteg.narod.ru/

Here's the SU-34 (side by side cockpit) with cross sections:

http://www.aviacherteg.narod.ru/avia.../Su34_Aero.htm

SU-27 with one 2 seater drawing , no cross sections:

http://www.aviacherteg.narod.ru/avia...27_Poligon.htm

Here's the link to the SU-33 scans above:

http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/su33aiv.html

DanSavage

My Feedback: (5)

It depends upon whether you're using the raster image created by the scanner as your plans or whether you covert the raster image to CAD. I convert mine to CAD.

I don't blow up (scale) the pins. I blow up the resultant vector shape (spline curve) after I've imported the drawing into CAD and traced the outlines.

At some point in time, a scanned raster image will need to be converted to a vector drawing. Most of the auto-tracers I've used over the years are pretty much worthless for this as they will insert points in illogical places which require additional editing to remove the extraneous points.

The best results come from images which have been manually traced. The decision then becomes where to place the points (spline or bezier) that define the curve. Whether those points are traced over a raster image produced by an electronic scanner or a raster image defined by a pin gauge is irrelevent as they're both raster devices.

At 100 pins/inch, a contour gauge has about the same resolution as your computer screen (either 72 or 96ppi), so a 3" wide fuselage cross-section is defined by 300 pins. Each pin represents a point, which when traced in a CAD program and rendered using spline curves produces a curved outline unencumbered by the original resolution of the contour gauge.

Even a 1/2" sized shape, such as the nacelles on a 1:144 model of the Super Guppy, are traced by ~50 pins, which represent 50 points on a spline curve.

No matter which part of the raster line you use (outside, centerline or inside), no vector tracing is going to be exactly the same size. As a result, each vector line created using that raster image as a template is going to have to be manually fitted to the other outlines so that you don't have hills and valleys in the resultant 3D skin.

Of course, if you're using the raw raster images that are simply enlarged in an image-editing program like Photoshop, then you're right. You would need to start with the highest-resolution artwork to maintain anything resembling accuracy.

Buffy

Thanks Thud Driver, i'm onto it. Buffy

Heatseeker_Hill

anyone got any for mig25/31 cant get them off website reccomended