KingCobra2

Have it shipped to a contact in the USA , Then have it forwarded to you. Maybe a little costly but you will get them,,,,,,,,,,, Scott

AGR413

My Feedback: (1)

I added 1/4" spacers for my Tower .75 no problem on fuel draw and my lines run up past the tank because I mounted it stopper forward. I also fuel proofed everything where the engine mounts.

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

Even my OS 46 bottomed out !!.. There was a ridge along the bottom of the engine which I carefully dremelled off....

CrashPro

My Feedback: (1)

yea...same here....Tower .75....had to do the same...looks like shat,....If I put another of these together, will definately do it differently than this.

B58

My Feedback: (43)

I just cut some new blocks to mount the OS .91. Bob

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

I cut some aluminum to support my JETT BSE

gary don

JUST A BEWARE NOTE TO CHECK THE AILERON HINGES ON THE BOBCAT 51, MY BUDDY IN WACO TEX. TEST FLEW HIS AND THE AILERON CAME LOSE. DID A GOOD JOB GETTING IT BACK ON GROUND WITH OUT CRASHING. ----------SO CHECK ALL HINGES ------

gary don

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

Crosspinning the supplied Cya hinges is a good method to secure them.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

I am replacing mine with these from Great Planes. They almost fit in the slots already there. Just run your knife in the slot a couple of times and they fit just nice. I will epoxy them in place even though the package says you can use ca on them.

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

They are user installed...........

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

BlueMax,

I failed a few of those hinges in very cold weather, about 10-15 F.
But over all they worked fine for me.

bigplumbs

Indeed they are user installed you have to glue them in with Cyno or epoxy ?????

bigplumbs

Had the maiden flight on my Bobcat today and I am very pleased. You can read my report here on my detailed build thread if you are interested

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=5#post6810752

Post no 66

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

I haven't heard that one before but thanks for letting me know. Although it isn't that often I fly when it is that cold. Unless it is in a nice warm house on G3 LOL......
Thanks again...

knowcrash

My Feedback: (38)

i3dm,

that is a jetjoe 1200. i'm still testing everything and haven't flown it yet. the retracts are century jet air retracts. i saw one of the earlier posts where someone made the lg plates and glued them to the ribs. i did this with mine except i mounted them closer to the cg. i flew my first bobcat with a rossi .81 ducted fan engine so i could graduate to the turbine setup. i flew the rossi powered one probably 100 times or more. it taught me alot about the flying characteristics of this model. i found that it certainly takes off and lands a lot easier with landing gear moved forward. also the cg is at least 10.5 and i might try 11.0 with the turbine.

Stick Jammer

Just as most others my stock engine blocks didn't provide enough clearance. The stock blocks were also covered in white while the rear of the fuse is blue (red, white and blue scheme). Add to all of this that they seemed a little too soft for my liking so I just made some new ones out of oak and covered them with dark blue monokote.

Aka Bubba

My Feedback: (28)

Does any one else have these in stock? I want to get one but when I went to order one from nitroplanes.com and got all the way to the check out. The shipping is more than the actual ARF. Come on "I know I live way up here in AK but it is not the end of the world and we still have all the creature comforts of the lower 48 states." So I sent them a few emails and inquired about shipping but as of today I still have not received a response from them. And I still want one!!!!!!!!!!!!

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

knowcrash,
My wheels will be 4 inches behind the CG if the CG is @ 10 inches. The CG @ 11 inches the wheels will be 3 inches behind the CG. The plates are 3 inches wide so the plates start about 2.5 (10") - 1.5 (11") inches behind the CG. The wheels with the retracts are about 2 inches further forward than where they would have been if the fixed gear had been used.

Stick Jammer

Bubba,
Don't know if it will help but maybe try calling Nitroplanes direct. I don't know their method of shipment to AK but at USPS website it looks like a 10 lb. Priority package with insurance from their location to yours should be less than 25 bucks.

Stick Jammer

Like most others I did not like the front and aft orientation of the gear and the 5/32 material they were made of. I also did not like how far behind the CG they were located. After reading how poorly the stock gear blocks were glued to the wing structure my decision to cut them open was easy. Here are a few pics of my revised gear block install and new 3/16 fixed gear. The new position of the gear is about 3” forward of the stock location in addition to utilizing the torque rod advantage. This puts the gear about 2” behind a 10.5” CG which I’m hoping will work out well. Just to let anyone know that may be using the stock gear block setup, while I can’t speak for every kit, mine would have failed very quickly. This is definitely a very neglected area of this model from the factory.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Stick Jammer
I hope it does work for you as mine are pretty close to where yours are.

bigplumbs

My gear held up ok on the first flight off grass and it took off and landed fine in the stock position. I did however cut a small hole in the wing and inject 5 min epoxy around the blocks

Dennis

www.densplanes.co.uk

Stick Jammer

I've read where others have used the same method of pouring epoxy into a hole near the blocks but after actually cutting open the wing and getting a good look at how poorly they are secured to the wing structure this wouldn't be my first choice. Not to say that this method won't work, it just wouldn't be my choice. There is a huge gap between the top of the blocks and the top wing skin. The sides of the blocks are poorly secured to only one rib and the ends are glued to the trailing edge spar. They were pretty easy to remove without any damage to the wing structure. Filling this area with epoxy at best will probably just transfer the shock load to the top wing skin which is only balsa. It also will most likely make it much harder to remove them later if the need arises. If the stock blocks would have been orientated side to side and closer to the CG, I most likely would have never cut into the wings right from the start, but as it turns out I'm glad I did.
Another area of this plane that did not get enough thought are the rudder and aileron servo locations in relation to the hinge lines. The rudder horns cannot be attached perpendicular to the hinge line due to the angle of the control rod. The horn must be attached to the rudder so it points at the servo arm with the rudder at neutral. Moving the rudder from side to side creates weird angles at the horn. I got around this by using a steel clevis (a quality clevis, not the ones supplied as mine were junk) on the servo arm and a ball link at the horn. This worked well despite the ugly geometry of the whole thing. The aileron linkage turned out much nicer by pointing the servo arm toward the wing tip and lining up the control rod 90 degrees to the servo arm. I was then able to locate the aileron horn perpendicular to the hinge line and the servo arm. This also allowed the horn pivot point to be on the hinge line.

scoobystig

hi guys

how have you all run the antenna for the receiver, i'd like to do it as on the jets with an upright antenna

is this just a tube you run the antenna wire up, or is it something completely different

any help welcomed, thanks

steve