gofastz

Another couple of weeks and the Jett 60 we'll be here!!!!!!
I had some request for photo's of the wing attachment and my attenna rigging, so here they are...note in the pictures it shows the tank secured with a cross support. I used a control rod tube to run the attenna the length of the fusalodge and secured it with thick CA to the support just under the lip of the canopy opening....also, the trailing edges of the wing are secured with main landing gear strap tabs...I saw this in this forum and copied it....It works great and will allow removal of the wing when needed.....Please note that I take no credit for all these great modifacations as this forum was were I got them from....It goes without saying that there are some great builders here and as this is my first time using this forum I am honerd to exchange some of you great ideas and to be able to use them......


Mark

Aero D

Thanks Mark.

Those pictures will be very helpful for me.

Chris

Stick Jammer

Aero D,
Seen your question and thought I'd offer my method. I glued a 27" length of nylon tube into the front section of one wing and threaded the stock antenna wire into the tube. There is an oval shaped hole in the ribs close to the leading edge that runs all the way down the wing. It's pretty easy to thread the tube into this area and secure the end to the inside of the root rib with a small piece of light ply leaving a short stub of the tube to protrude into the fuse when the wing is attached. The 27" length of tube is more than enough with the receiver just behind the nose gear mount.

gofastz

There has been some canopies that have been damaged that nitro is slow in getting in stock.....you guys might try this to get back in the air......
1. Make a mold of the canopy as closely to the orginal by using a balsa block..
2. When your satisfied with the mold, take a empty coke or what ever liter bottle and cut it into a flat sheet...be sure to romove the label...
3. heat the oven to about 150 degrees, place the sheeting on a pan with aluminum foil.
4. When the sheeting is soft and plyable take the mold you made and streach it over it to produce your new canopy.
5. Allow to cool and cut access material from bottom to match ....
6. Don't worry about scuff or prints as you form the mold as you paint the canopy to your likeing...( I like black or smoked)

Hope this helps..........Mark

Aero D

Stick,

Thanks for the input. So in your method, is any of the antenna wire exposed outside of the plane?

Chris

AGR413

My Feedback: (1)

Re-thinking this whole CG thing.........

Guys I got tired of fighting the muffler problem and put a Pitts style muffler on the Tower .75 as others have done. The plane flew absolutely great untill I tried to land. When I cut the power it dives for the deck like a thirsty earthworm. I managed to save the plane, I made a go around and tried to control the landing but it hit hard and broke loose one of the main gear mounts. It bounced and I mean high and the prop was damaged in the intial hit so I was committed, I pointed the nose at the ground and gave full elevator before impact and it settled on the runway light as a feather...got a standing "O" for that one. With the Pitts it changed my CG to about 10.75 so I am wondering if this behavior might just be the Bobcats way of letting me know its tail heavy. The only thing is I would expect it to mush and tip stall instead of dive for the deck and it shows none of this behavior at speed???? Maybe this is a jet thing, this is my first Jet type glow model. Any input is appreciated.

Gotta go buy some more underwear.

NM_Mark

My Feedback: (8)

Maybe it's a Motor incidence thing - I noticed the same thing with my plane. Chop throttle, and it dived, big time. I was wondering if I needed to change the give the engine a little more downforce, or upforce - something like that.

Mark

Timbba

One for motor incidence... increase down thrust...

Stick Jammer

Aero D,
No, none of the antenna wire is outside the plane. The 27" tube runs from the root to the tip and is more than long enough for the wire.

countryshooter

My Feedback: (21)

having the same problem but trying to fix it. after you fly your plane and trim it out for hands off I landed the plane and notice the elevator trim is upward. Checked the incidence with the wing and stabalizer and it had 0 incidence. I added shims to raise the incidence to almost 1" and now I can almost do hands off landing with just killing the throttle. It still has alittle up elevator so going to shim it up a hair more and try again. my final CG is 9 5/8. I can do hair pin turns now without stalling it.

P 51 MAN

Contryshooter,
I am new to the hobby. What do you mean you added shims to raise the incidence to almost 1" ?
Michael

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

I think he meant one degree, not one inch

P 51 MAN

Crazy4flight,
how would you do this ?

ROB J.

Aero D,

I took stick jammers advise on running antenna through tube in wing.
Worked out great, and fairly quick/painless. By the way, thanks for the idea stick jammer!

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

I would believe that countryshooter, is adding shims between the tailbooms and the wing at the rear bolt.

countryshooter

My Feedback: (21)

no. I put about 1/4" shim under the stabuilizer arm that connects to the wing, on each side the back end of the wing is about 1" lower then front and the stabilizer is even front and back. I dont know what degree it is. yes I mean the tailboom and wing.

P 51 MAN

Thanks for the information. Can you show some pictures ?

countryshooter

My Feedback: (21)

ok will try to post tomorrow

AGR413

My Feedback: (1)

That is a good thought but this problem developed after I put the Pitts on which modified the CG, until then it landed like a dream.

mkndls40

I have just finished assembling one of these with a gms 76, a pitts muffler and 11X7 prop.
I just switched to the pusher prop and seem to have trouble keeping the engine running.
I cant get the needle valve set correctly before the engine starts cutting out.
Seems to be overheating. Engine runs great with a regular prop on it (problem is it would fly backwards) hense the pusher prop...
any suggestions?

countryshooter

My Feedback: (21)

Is the pitts muffler the right size for the engine? try the stock muffler and see if that helps. had the same problem when I tried a pitts style. think it had too much back pressure on the engine.

CrashPro

My Feedback: (1)

I first started with a Tower Hobbies .75 with a Pitts muffler on my Bobcat, and had no problems at all like that. GMS and Tower engines are identical. Seems you're just leaning the engine out too much.

AGR413

My Feedback: (1)

What is the history on the engine is it possible it is not completely broken in yet? Sounds like the case to me, these symtoms match up with that diagnosis perfectly.

denifermana

My Feedback: (6)

I had the same problem with a Mark 61 overheating and leaning out after 3 minutes of flight every time . I cured this by bumping up the nitro content. Nitro actually has a cooling effect on the engine. I have flown it no fewer than 15 times like this with no problems. For you guys having problems landing, this plane will fly very slowly and I have found it lands great at low speeds. It really doesn't have a bad stall characteristic at all. Just give youself plenty of elevator throw with plenty of expo and you'll have it made. I also installed a Fults dual wire nose wheel which works great. Let the plane burn off as much speed as you can in the air. Enjoy

Stick Jammer

You're welcome, glad it worked for ya. Did your range problems go away?