Terry Holston

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I then painted the bezel portion of the light Aluminum:

Terry Holston

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Hooked it up and Viola.....................

Terry Holston

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Here is the Starboard side. Green/ Right for you landlubbers. LOL

Terry Holston

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I was able to cut the excess length of wire coming out of the wings and splice it onto the 4 way splitter Andy supplied. I was carefull to keep the wire from the right side going to the right and the wire going to the left side to the left. As I had to trim the heat shrink on one of them to determine whether the red wire went to the yellow or the orange on the green LED. When I cut the heat shrink back..........

There is a little circuit board with a Iddie biddie black Gizzmo solderd to it. Is this what makes it Green????? Or Red????? Or White????

rhklenke

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Terry,

No, the color is set by the LED itself (the color actually comes from the energy bands of the electrons that are releasing the photons inside the semiconducting diode itself...)

The black gizzmo is a resistor. This resistor limits the current going through the diode to keep if from burning up. If you leave it out of the circuit and connect it directly to the 4.8V battery, it will be VERY bright and get VERY hot - for a few minutes, then it will be eternally dim [&o]

Bob

Terry Holston

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Next I will show how I made my cockpit and dash.

I used this picture of the instrument panel to fabricate the dash: ( On my printer it comes out the right size, your milage may vary.)

Terry Holston

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I printed three copies of the picture (the correct size for my plane) and use them to make the .020 styrene plastic outer panel By cutting the instrument faces out and cutting it on the outline of the panel. I then used this to locate where the holes would go. I used various sizes of sharpened brass tubes to cut the holes perfectly round.

I then spray painted it Black.

I glued a clear styrene sheet to the back of this piece, added the second copy of the trimmed picture and then glued another .020 panel shaped piece to the back of this stack. Be very carful to keep all the parts in alighnment so the insrtument faces are centered in ther respective holes.

I added some scrap balsa to the top inside edge of the panel so there was something to glue the dash top to. I had to trim the balsa in a couple of spots so as to not cover the back side of the instruments as this will be a lighted panel.

I used the same technique to fab the secondary compass panel/box that sets on the right side of the gunsight.

I then made the under wing arming switch panel out of a scrap piece of balsa covered with .020 styrene (Use thin CDA), using the picture as a template for the correct size. Then I glued the picture to the face of the panel. I made the switches out of soft aluminum wire, pinched on one end to flatten it out to the paddle switch shape. Added a small dia. aluminum tube (1/16" long) slide over the wirealmost up the the flattnd end. The switch on the left end of the panel is the master so it has an aluminum guard around it. I made this out of .010 aluminum. 3/32"x5/32" rectangle with a half circle on each end. Bend the half circles 90 degrees up from the retangle. drill a .080 hole on the center of the rectangle and through the other four switches and glue the "Switches in the holes with thin CA

I made the rearview mirror out of a K&S polished stainless steel strip, again using the picture as a template. I made the frame out of bits of styrene and aluminum for the bracket.(The last picture here)

Add a few wires and cables, paint it all black, except the instrument faces and:
(Don't mind the dust specks)

Terry Holston

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Here it is on the aircraft before I made a quick cockpit tub out of 1/16" ply and Bass wood covered with .020 white styrene July fourth, Before leaving for Kentucky Jets

Terry Holston

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I did the speed brake housing at work July 3rd and installed it on the fourth , also. I didn't have a small servo, and the stores are closed on the fourth of July for some reason, so I finished it at Kentucky Jets Thursday and Friday. I was able to procure a servo from JR Rep Jeff Holsinger to finish the hook up. I then changed out the small tank I was using for the canopy air system to the large Robart tank I brought with me for that purpose and Teed the lines to the speed brake. Using a used Robart "Festo type" air line Tee I got from my "buddy" the Ghost Rider.
I used the stock PST Retract air valve for the speed brake, as i am using the UPC-3 Valve for the retracts and gear doors.

As a side note I had to free up two channels after switching to the Exrtrme Link 2.4 Gig modules in my JR 10X. So I used "Y" harnesses on the ailerons, freeing up channel 7 and nose gear steering and rudder, freeing up channel 9. Channel 10 was my canopy, mixed to the top mixing switch, unused on the PPM mode of the modulation unless mixed to another channel. The canopy is now on AUX 2 (Channel 7) instead of 10. And the speed brake is enabled with the top mixing switch.

On the second flight at KJ we decided to see if the Speed brake would slow the jet down. So I flipped the AUX 2 switch...........................and the Panther just kept on bookin', didn't even attempt to slow down......................So I flipped it back.





After landing...................about two hours later....................I realised.................I had opened the canopy......................at about 140 MPH.........................I guess Dubya got a shot of cool breeze in his face.................LOL

Oh well, It was a stress test on my canopy rails............Ha Ha

Terry Holston

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Ya all will have to wait until Wed for pictures of the finished Speed brake as I still have to take'em............................Stay Tooned.................

B777

lucky that the Panther has a sliding canopy...or it would have blown away clean at 140mph !!! Speedbrake (Dive Brake) is very effective on the Panther and will slow her down noticably. We also test the body flaps and they add quite a lift during landing.

Great details, Terry. Cheers, Kraivuth S.

Terry Holston

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Ya got that right, opening the canopy on an F/A 18 ........................and Poof she's gone..................................Ha Ha

Terry Holston

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Here is a picture of the speed brake in the deployed position I took at the club meeting last night.

Terry Holston

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Take off shot:

Terry Holston

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Bumped to the top for the guys building a Ziroli Panther.

Terry Holston

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A few pictures of the carnige and repair from 2010

Pictures won't upload.......................sorry can't find 'em..........

Terry Holston

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Here they are:
Hit a bump on the grass runway holding rt rudder and cartwheeled. Repaired everything and took her to Kentucky Jets in 2012.

WhoDaMan

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wow Terry , you did a fantastic job on her

Terry Holston

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Thanks, she still flys as good as before, except a slight leak in the air for the retracts I can't seem to find. Only had one flight at Kentucky jets on the Panther as the right main gear didn't come down and I had Jim Hiller land her for me. No damage other than a slight scratch on the right wingtip tank . Jim slowed her WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY down and she stopped in about 2 feet.

Which guy does that make me? Old fart, Trainer,Know it all?????................. LOL

Terry Holston

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Here she is Yesterday at our swap meet display table.

jayman618

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Terry have you been flying the Panther this year?

Terry Holston

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No, not yet. It has been a long, cold, snowy, windy winter...................LOL I need to bleed the brakes before She flys again. I gotta be able to stop her.......Bleeding the brakes is a messy job, I am dreading it, but once done it is good for the year, no air to mess with. Now if I could just do away with the air on the retracts...................

jeffdec

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Hello Terry, I purchased a Red and Yellow Panther from Peter Doupnik last year, going over it this winter I noticed a pin hole leaking from the brake line where it gets filled next to the tie. I put a new tie closer to the "T", it seemed to be fixed then after trying them a few times I noticed there was bubbles at one wheel. So now I was thinking I should put all new 3mm festo lines take every thing apart soak the O rings in the new fluid. But before I do I was thinking of using Synthetic Silicone based DOT 5 Brake fluid. What are your thought on this?
The manual says to use Light Hydraulic fluid or Household 3in1 oil or Hydraulic Jack fluid. but before reading the manual I went out and purchased the brake fluid. Looking forwards to hearing your thoughts on this, Thanks in advance
Regards Jeff D

cliffordrmagee

Jeff, 3 in 1 is a good. Most brake fluids are so caustic the long-term consequences will probably be undesired.

Terry Holston

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Please Do NOT use auto brake fluid. The O-rings are not designed for it. I use hydraulic jack oil. Also don't use plastic wire ties. use Stainless steel wire like you use on your fuel lines, for the same reason.

I took the wheel apart that had the bubbles in the line and submerged the whole hub minus the pistons in a container of oil and cycled the brake master cylinder several time thus purging the air bubbles and pulling the jack oil back in the wheel cylinders then replaced all the pistons and reassembled the hubs and wheels. all is good, got a few flights on her before the weather turned crappy. I also installed a GoPro in the cockpit in place of George, but have yet to fly with the camera. Good luck with your Panther, you will love it.