J. Campbell

My Feedback: (31)

Take an exacto and cut the rim out of the tire, then clean inner tire up with a dremel sanding disk as needed. When yellow wheels will push in i put it in a vise to squeeze it togetherr enough to start bolts. They work great.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

Thanks

bidrseed2

My Feedback: (2)

Hi All,

Id like to report I flew my second hand F15 for the first time today. It took about 16 months to re do the install to my satisfaction and Im pleased to report the maiden went very well.
The model required no trim at all when clean and only 4 units of down trim with Take off flap. Roll rate wasn't as quick as id like but that can be tweaked. Im using a jet cat 160SX for power and i was surprised how much throttle it needed, but also how slow it happily flew.
Ive a few jobs to do post maiden, but the main issues are
1) a hotspot seems to have developed and some paint delaminated on the underside, about the size of a US quarter coin. I need to remove the pipe to inspect but think thats going to be a difficult job.
2) the main gear springs seem to have different compression, almost like one has no air in it. I think they're springs so will have to look inside.
3) I need to see if i can get more aileron travel, but won't be worried if i can't.
4) My jet cat 160 SX was emitting a momentary puff of white smoke just after it stabilised at idle. Im not sure why
5) I need to redo the plumbing with larger bore pipes- Im using 6mm festo tube, but think the brass pipe fittings in the tank may be too small, as when i fuel the plane, the first tank fills and rapidly expands deforming the top of the fuse. The second tank filling means the bowser fuelling rate has to go at a snails pace.

All hopefully surmountable problems and Im looking forward to flying it again, it was a *****cat!

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I have 12 flights on my YA F-15 and have been very happy with it. I'm running a Kingtech 140 and also have the hot spot underneath you reported. It bubbled the paint but has not worsened, so I've left it. The main gear does have springs. I replaced them for stronger springs. My plane would bottom out when fueled.

I was also surprised at the amount of throttle it takes (I fly around 80-85%).

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Hello All.

Purchased a sort of built new yellow F15. It was set up for duct fan but I will be building with a king tech 140.

Figured I would revive an old thread and document the rebuild.
Step 1 was to remove everything from the airframe and check things out.

Starting from the rear of the plane and working on redoing the elevator and rudder servo mounts. Pictures show previous mounts which were not very solid and the control rods connecting the servo to the surface were at hard angles and not very stiff.

Elevator now uses factory ball on surface and Dubro ball on servo side with a titanium rod and alloy servo horn. Rudder rod I added carbon rod over the threaded rod with Hysol and that solved the bending issue.

added ply extenders for the elevator servo which puts it at a perfect angle now. For the rudder I made a ply mount to change the orientation of the servo and also made it easier to work on. Last pictures show interior side once complete and a couple layers of foil tape over the servo.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the pipe that came out of the plane and the replacement Tams pipe that will be going in.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Just getting the pipe installed and setup. How much is too much of a gap between the Exhaust cone and pipe?
Is 7/8" to 1" too much of an inset for the pipe?

I ask because without making some significant changes to the turbine mount or middle former this is now it all fits best.

THANKS!

SECRET AGENT

My Feedback: (18)

The norm is 3/4 inch.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Just to confirm/clarify i'm wondering about the rear of the pipe and the turkey feathers ( I think they are called).

So when I look at the back of the plane i'm looking at the scale exhaust cones (turkey feathers) and the end of my Y pipe exits are inset from the end about 1".

bidrseed2

My Feedback: (2)

I think the outlets being an inch inside the turkey feathers will be okay.
it would look ridiculous is they were sticking out by an inch!

At the other end, an inch between the engine exhaust and the pipe will be fine.

SECRET AGENT

My Feedback: (18)

Mine's not a Y/A but my pipe is flush with the exhaust cone.

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

I'll get a pick of mine when I get home. I know mine does not come all the way to the end of the tail feathers but I don't remember how close it is.

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

Forgot...I had pics on my flash drive

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Guys! Thanks Gary!
Thats exactly the confirmation I was looking for.

Will add some more pics soon!

EDFCrazy

Sent you a PM Canadian man

Shaun Evans

Hi,

1" is just fine. Better cooling for the fuse, too.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Shaun.

Rear pipe support done.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

My little trick to getting turbine centered.
Pipe mounted, centered and solid.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Got lower bypass/protection in. I made my own from combining a piece from a previous Fei bao jet and a portion of an ultra flash bypass. Not sure yet if I will use a top portion yet. Using this lower piece to keep everything protected and separate.

Pre fit tanks and turbine. I did have to use a cut off wheel and trim the excess from the bolts on the Kingtech turbine. Without this done I couldn’t get the 2nd tank installed. Turbine needs to be able to shift sideways under first installed tank to get second one in.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Planned and mounted the rear airline and wire organizers
mount made for fuel pump. Tucked in front section beside the intakes.
Mount made and installed to left side of front section beside intakes for air trap.
Flap and aileron extensions made with power box wire and connectors
installed, protected and ran surface control lines.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

One of the guide/retention pins on the canopy was missing/broken. I took a piece of carbon rod, filled it with hysol and used hysol to adhere in place. Once it was dry I shaped it to match the other one.
Did not add the retention groves as I will not be using this system to hold down the canopy.

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

Next step was to fabricate some mounts for the canopy retention pins. I wanted these mounted to the Fuse to keep cockpit removal process as simple as possible.
Used Hysol to glue to side of front Fuse area.
Glued copper hollow tube to the front canopy area to act as guide for the wire retention pins.

THANKS all the contributors of this thread for these great ideas!

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

- Shots of the canopy retention complete. Hooked up to DX18QQ Sequencer and got the programming all sorted out.
- Next addressed the Flap and Aileron surfaces. The servos had Aluminum arms installed but were hooked up with Clevices.
Removed Servos to check plate retention screws and also loctite all screws/bolts. Re-did the Arms with Titanium rods and hardware as you can see.
No play now and nice and solid.
- Last picture is of the mount I made for the Canopy open/close. Much more solid mount now and also centred so canopy closes in the middle now. I didn't take a picture of it but I Hysol'ed
a piece of 1/8th ply to the underside of the canopy. Cut a slot in the center of the ply and mounted a piece of .5" wide by about 1" long carbon plate for the clevis to mount to on for operation of the canopy.
Once I found the suitable hole location i shaped the carbon with a dremel and a bench grinder for a nice shape. Painted ply black.


DreamWorks order showed up so next steps is getting airline organized and run and starting to sort out where everything is going.

I find that I spend a bunch of time just standing there staring at the airframe pondering the best location for things.

Eric-ski

Just picked one of these up and it needs a canopy. Anyone know of one that will fit?

bidrseed2

My Feedback: (2)

Try emailing the below address

[email protected]


They can manufacture them, and not for a lot of money either- at least for the fibreglass part, you'd have to ask about the clear plastic.