Jetbono

Just Checked , Dealer for PST is Als hobbies and IAD ..

These turbine are made in thailland I believe ..

BaldEagel

Don't worrk about copyright if you are posting it without prejudice and without any financial gain, i.e. just for inforamtion, then no court in the UK will take any action brought against you seriously.

Mike

gio

My Feedback: (26)

Hi , more done on my falcon 120.
I fitted some 6mm screw in the wing, I fitted one in the leading edge, holds much better this way.
In the rear stab I also moved from the center mount one screw to the leading edge and one to the trailing edge of the stab, it holds the rear stab much better than the single screw.
And the pics show my fuel tanks set up.

gio

My Feedback: (26)

More Falcon pics.

gio

My Feedback: (26)

More Falcon pics.

tim777jet

hey Gio, thats some fuel capacity you have there, are you going for an endurance competition, cheers tim

Jetbono

Thats also what I thought , Looks like you got 4 litres in that thing !!  LOL

gio

My Feedback: (26)

The main tank is 85oz and 2 dubro tanks of 24oz each, total of 133oz.
My Falcon will be powered by an P120, so I need fuel for that thirsty beast, and 133oz is a normal setup for fuel capacity.
On all my planes including props I do my fuel setups so I have more than 15minutes to fly, When I go up I stay always 15 minutes up there.

Gio.

BaldEagel

That thing is going to weigh a ton at take off weight, hope you have done some good reinforcing to the UC and main spar?

Mike

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

[] NEVER ROTATE WITH DUBROS THAT FAR AHEAD OF C/G [][]

Jetbono

HAHAHA , You might need concrete reinforcement on that plane ... I currently have wren54,2litre pepsi bottle and a small 100ml lead tank and already the plane feels very heavy ..

You have a P120and4 litres of fuel , your plane will be so heavyin will havebad habbitsduring slow flight ..

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

You'd be better off putting the Dubros right in front of the main tank and moving the UAT forward. The best solution to minimize trim changes during flight would be to get the wing tanks from the same guy that made your main tank.

Joe

gio

My Feedback: (26)

He thanks for the input on my fuel tank setup.
And yes I was looking at the wing tanks, also a good setup but I dont like the way I have to unplug the fuel lines evertime I put the wing on an of the plane
What do you think of leaving one of the 24oz dubro tanks out or take both tanks out?
Will it be to risky to fly on only the 85oz main tank?
Thanks in advance.
Gio.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

The biggest risk is the structural integrity of the airframe. Remember that this is a Chinese ARF designed for a 120 glow pusher engine that would probably not exceed 80 mph. You need to make sure that you've done sufficient upgrades to the airframe to handle the extra weight and speed.

This plane flies great and is well matched with a 14 lbs. turbine. I have a Wren SuperSport (18 lbs.) on mine and it is quite fast. I did all the upgrades but am still cautious not to do any high G turns or otherwise stress the airframe in flight.

Others have put heavy Ram engines, P-80's, or even a P-120 on these, so it has been done. A single 85 oz. tank will work fine but your flight times will be short. Of course that also depends on how you fly it. I have a 64 oz. tank in mine. I fly a little over half throttle most of the time and open it up for occasional verticals and low passes. My flight times are 6 minutes with reserve for an aborted landing.

You could try it with just the main tank to see how it goes. I suspect that you will want more fuel on board than that. Any auxiliary tanks should be placed as close to the CG as possible, i.e., right in front of the main tank.

Joe

RC Pile It

My Feedback: (6)

Hello all! I am new to this thread, as I am new to the turbine thing...

I just got my Super Falcon 120(today), My JJ1400 full auto should be here in a couple of days(used). I have some retracts that I think will work. I was thinking oleos on mains(I have them already), and stock wire on front. I have brakes for the mains.

What else do I need to know? I have spent four hours today reading post, after post...And know so much now that I don't know what to do!?! I don't know whether to scream, or curl up in the corner...

Are the latest versions still kinda weak, and should be re-enforced? or just stronger fasteners, and a little extra glue?

Can someone sum it all up into one consise post? What do I need to modify? What is the best cheap/reliable set-up to successfully learn/fly turbines? Do I need a $40-$60 UAT, or can I make my own? Can I use a Juice bottle? That kinda stuff?

I really appreciate any help that I can get. I can afford(mentally & financially) to do this about 1.5 times, and prefer to always have that .5 in reserve...

1Eye

My Feedback: (2)

. . .

BaldEagel

Can someone sum it all up into one consise post?

Everything, undercarridge bearers, wing tube, turbine mount, wing attachement, the list is very long, re-read and cherry pick what you think you ought to do.

Mike

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Any Aussies on this thread looking at getting any landing gear from digitech?

They have a sale on so we could see if we could save some shipping money on them??

Thanks

dave

Mavrik!

Dave,

I got my struts from digitech for my Falcon 1 year ago and they work great. You will not be dissapointed!

Mav

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

Hi All

shipping a box to australia costs 21 euro,s
and the max weight is 2 kilo,s.
basicly this means about 15 sets for the same shipping costs.

madfreestyler

RCPI,

Heres what i have done so far, im not saying this is the defacto standard but ive been through this forum more times than i can count and this is what ive done so far :-

Fuselage
-Formers modified to accept 50oz dubro tank sits above the wing tube (found it actually holds 1.8 litres and i had spare ones so a bonus)
-Going to stregnthen the formers and fill gaps with microballons and epoxy
-Engine mount raised 15mm and cut to allow 6 degrees of downthrust

Booms
-Stab underside plated with alu tape
-Servo bays modded to accept Hitec 225MG servos (inner ones had to be raised slightly as there isn't enough depth)
-Stregnthened the captive nut mountings with epoxy
-Made custom extension leads with mpx connectors
-Going to change to use cap hex bolts rather than the plastic ones in the kit.

Wings
-All formers around the u/c mount sandwiched with carbon cloth and epoxy
-Ran PVA with a hyperdermic down all seems as they look a little dry
-Changed flap hinges to the barbed type as the slots were to thick for the mylar ones supplied
-Again made custom extension leads with MPX connectors
-Im going to use hex bolts permannently in the wing with wing nuts for ease of rigging
-Hitec 5845's used on each aileron and flap

Control Rods
M3 high tensile stud sleeved with carbon and a 2mm ball link either side = 0 slop
Control horns are from pete tindall in the uk

Still hacking away at it, ive got too many projects on the go so just doing a bit at a time. Hope to get in ready in the next month or so ready for when the weather breaks.

tim777jet

Hi RC Pile it, good list above, plus

-Check length of the spars, make sure they fit all the way in the wing to the last rib
- Trailing link U/C is better for rough grass and rough landing
- I changed all my hinges, didnt use the ones in the kit
- Check inside wing structure as best as possible and make good any missing glue joints.
- Keep it light, your engine should be a good match for the plane.
- I use Cap Head ally screws for the wing bolts and the wing to boom bolts, easy to fit and light.
- I use a Persil clothes washing liquid bottle, fits well and holds around 1.7 liters.
- I use an Orbit clunk in the main tank and a UAT. I have an expensive UAT but any UAT is fine. I thing Motors nad Rotors sell a cheaper one now. Some guys dont use a UAT
- I use 2.4 gig Spektrum radio with no proba at all.
- Use a metal geared servo for the nose steering
-If its your first jet, just through everything in, velcro and tie wrapps is great. When you are at the field this makes it easy to fix anything. If you make it too pretty its a nightwmare.
- I recomend getting airbourne ASAP, then tidy up afterwards.
- The Cof G mentioned in the instructions is perfect.
- Dont worry too much about the extra nose heavy weight with a full fuel tank, it does not make much difference to the model and when you come to land, you will be perfect CG
- Use at least double flap movement for landing, more if you can get it. Use 1/2 deflection if really strong cross wind.
- used carbon control rods
- engine down thrust is around 5 to 6 degrees
- Check for missing glue around u/c mounting structures
-

Cheers Tim

madfreestyler

Zedjet are quite reasonable for the UAT's think mine was about £20. Just need to flog my spring airs now so that i can get the digitech set ;-) summers on its way .......................

BaldEagel

If you swap the flaps from the right wing too the left wing and turn them over, you get a straight edge on the lower side which allows more flap movement with the Robart type pin hinge's.

The UC bearers in both wings and the fus fell out of mine with just a little persuasion, take them out and Hysol them back in with some extra reinforcement, I extended the wing bearers to another rib inboard of the retract to spread the loding more.

Mike

BaldEagel

madfreestyler

Interested to know how much your wing weigh, I would like to know so I can conpare with my mods, (I think mine are heavy)

Mike