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Lol! Actually I didn't read this thread before I built mine, would have helped as I scradtched my head for a few days as to what would be the best method for the cutout area
Global Jet Club Australia
In that case great minds and all that...........
On the latest generation I have modified the rigging to be from above for both the booms and the wings.
My Gast is Flabered.
No matter what anyone say's 100% is the maximum you can get.
If you see a deleted post, my Avatar say's it all.
I use a 2 litre cooking oil bottle I pinched from the wife and emptied into a sausepan.
I also use a 300CC Sullivan tank as an air trap so I suppose I have a useable capacity of 2150CC.
I set my alarm for 7.5 minutes from startup and usually land as the alarm is sounding.
After the flight I have about a fuel level of about 12mm (1/2") remaining in the main tank
I have emptied the tank once after another model crashed on the strip as I was waiting to land. After landing the engine quit as I was taxiing back. The timer read 11mins.
I hope this info is useful.
Thanks, so much for that bit of info. I am planning to use a 2litre Juice Bottle based on your setup.
Should give me enough time in the air.
Any pictures of your model available Ravi?
sure are, but yet in build, will post them here, went overboard on a lot of things,
sheeted the wings, extended the wing tubes to accommodate ribs deeper into the wings.
porker but at least will not come apart in flight.
I am about to start my second Falcon 1.20 Ver 1 build. I stripped the film from one wing in preparation for sheeting and found the following.
The second rib in from the tip was a stick of balsa glued in with packing to support the cap strip. One cap strip was missing as well.
This one takes the cake,,, The drawstring provided to pull the aileron lead through to the wing root took a turn around a rib under the covering. Would have been rather frustrating.
This must be a Monday or a Friday built wing.
I shudder to think what I will discover when I pull the film off the other wing and the tail surfaces.
Hey guys I'm building mine with an old AMT180. I have read a lost but it's been a bit much. It turns out my falcon has the wings with only one bolt holding it to the fuse. Dose that mean my wings are weaker than the newest ones ?
The yes is to suggest that it might be weaker than the wings with two bolts but how do we find out? My Version 1 wings were not fully sheeted but it took an argument with a fencepost to wreck that one. My version 2 wings (bought to replace the first ones) are fully sheeted but have only one bolt per side and they seem plenty strong. I am currently building my second Falcon and it is also a version 1, same as the first one. I am going to fully sheet the wing but am staying with the one wing bolt.
Having said all of the preceding I will admit that I generally fly at 1/2 throttle or below and only use full throttle on takeoff and vertical manouvres.
I would suggest that they will be plenty strong as long as you are not flying flat out and pulling pylon turns.
hi it's a good idea to put the wing bolts in the front of the wing it will stop the wing moving
I have had V1 falcons through to V3 carbons. putting the extra bolts is dead easy. line the
wing up and drill the holes from inside the fuselage. a blind nut inside of the front of the
wing and your done
kmrc jets oz
I have to admit I hadn't seen your post either before deciding what needed to be done.
I was influenced by trial and error. First flight was on unmodified wings, Robart retracts and home built straight "oleos".
First landing was smooth yet during the rollout one of the retracts just fell out. Glued back in and added glue to the other side. They came out again when the RAM 750 shed a blade after takeoff and I had to land in the rough. One leg wasn't fast enough to tuck away and out it came. Next I took both wings to a friend's workshop and did them properly. I bought at great expense (about 12 each) three trailing arm nosegear struts from Hobbyking. I then removed the old U/C bearers and threw them away. New bearers were fabricated from Tasmanian Oak and fitted into the wings with a forward angle to allow the wheel to still retract into the original well. the lot was reinforced with 1/4 square Tassie Oak and covered over with 2.7mm ply. The ply stands a bit proud of the surrounding balsa skin but can be sanded back.
When the version 2 wings arrived from Ken at KMRC Jets I went straight around to Patrick's workshop and we performed the mods before even fitting out the wings. These have survived many flights and some less than perfect landings.
With the new Falcon now being assembled (in Royal Navy'ish colours) We are performing the mods on these wings. I will attach some pics.
The moral to this story is to read this forum and take the advice of the posters BEFORE going out and learning the hard way.
Last edited by SeaHawk; 11-05-2013 at 03:18 AM.
So I have read a lot about strengthening up the retract mounts but what are some things you guys do once inside the wing for the rest of the wing?
I read the alummun wing tube is a few inch short so my plan is to find a wood dowl to fit inside that is 4in short on each side. Then get a wood dowl that is the same size as the tube. Then I only have to shave down 4in of of the dowl so I can extend it a little
Is sheeting the wing and adding some wood to the spar about all needed.
I guess seeing more broken wings would let you know it's weak points
Follow Ken's advice for drilling and attaching the wings with two sets of wing bolts.
I didn't use the supplied Aluminium (Aluminum in the US) wing spars. My Falcons are both ver 1 that come with 1mm wall thickness tube. (and yes, too short) Friend Brian took me over to a local supplier and we got a length of 2.5mm wall ali tube of the correct diameter. This was then cut to the correct length for each of our Falcons. I used the smaller front spar as supplied.I read the alummun wing tube is a few inch short so my plan is to find a wood dowl to fit inside that is 4in short on each side. Then get a wood dowl that is the same size as the tube. Then I only have to shave down 4in of of the dowl so I can extend it a little
If you are going to be stressing the model there are probably other areas than could be reinforced but the way I fly this has been adequate (touch wood).Is sheeting the wing and adding some wood to the spar about all needed.
I guess seeing more broken wings would let you know it's weak points
I will be adding epoxy to the boom in the area of the attachment points but that is about all the extra work I will be doing. If you would like pics of certain areas just let me know and I'll take some before closing up the wings.
Wow. I took the time and measured my stock tube and there is only 7 1/4 in of tube that sticks out per side. And it is 7 1/2-7 3/4 to reach the 3rd stringer. And there is play in lengh. As if you push the tube all the way in on one wing it will be a little over a 1in short on one side. Bad bad bad
Buy a length of heavy wall aluminum tube and cut a new one to the right length Mike. Easiest and best way to do it.
It's metric, and in the USA it's hard to find.
Mike... I've been flying mine for 3 years with a short tube. I just center it, and then put the wings on. BUT... I have thought about epoxy'ing in wood plugs on either end just to help support, and keep it centered.
With that said... I don't have retracts in my Falcon. Since it was my "Trainer" jet... I figure I needed to be able to have some hard landings, so I installed fixed gear on the fuse.
Owner of A&L Motorsports, LLC
[QUOTE=Dr Honda;11652660]It's metric, and in the USA it's hard to find.
Not really that hard to find ... IF you know where to look.
RCFoam in Colorado Springs, CO (yup, the heart of the USA) has a huge selection of metric carbon fiber tubes. Found at: www.rcfoam.com
So, the strongest solution is to purchase the correct diameter tubes, then put a hardwood dowel (from Lowes or Home Depot) in it at the CORRECT length. VERY strong (don't ask!) and inexpensive.
Well I just picks up a nice hardwood round dowl. I'm going to make the wood go past the stock alum bar 1in on each side. Now I just got to figure out how rap the dowl to the alum diam
I was thinking of eather just fiberglassing it
For what it is worth I have taken pics during the modding of the other wing of my current Falcon build. The wings have been stripped of their film and will be fully sheeted before recovering.
As well as the strengthening of the UC mounts I have raked them forward far enough to allow the use of the 12kg trailing arm nose strut from HobbyKing. These work very well once the springs are upgraded (from the shop they both collapse fully under the weight of my 7.5kg Falcon) So, here goes.
First step was to mark out where the covering is to removed to carry out the mods.
Remove the balsa skin and then remove the old bearers. This is very easy to do by grabbing with pointy nose pliers and wriggling
Cut away the ribs to allow the new bearers to be angled forward. 25mm x 12.5mm (1" x 1/2") bearers extended out to join 4 ribs.
Cut and epoxy gussets to seat new bearers. 6mm (1/4") hardwood.
Epoxy in the new bearers and when dry, cut and epoxy vertical gussets.
We modified the removed balsa skins to make up a set of templates to use when fabricating new ply skins.
Epoxy the ply back into place.
That is it. I will do the final trimming of the cutouts when the gear is fitted.
This is the third set of wings done this way and none have had a retract torn out once modified this way. If you are using straight struts instead of trailing arm then omit the raking forward on the UC bearers.
I hope this has been of some use.
Thanks for the use of your workshop and tools Patrick.
Last edited by SeaHawk; 11-05-2013 at 12:46 AM.
After 76 flights and 9.5hrs of flying time my Falcon's canopy flew off and was lost in the model-eating swamp at the bottom of the field. I have sent off an email to Noray to see if he still has heavy duty replacements available.
Has anybody else had a canopy fly off in flight?
hi col we nearly have a canopy mould ready give me a call
ken kmrc jets