hmjets

Here.
http://www.colchestera1models.co.uk/

rcmigpilot

My Feedback: (26)

There is a decal on the box for the one I just got that says www.fly-model.com . Thier web site says they export to the UK, you might be able to e-mail them at [email protected] and find out who retails the plane in the UK.

BaldEagel

Wholesale planes in Ashford Kent are the importer and they have a deal on the web site at the moment.

Mike

EDIT: to add link: http://www.wholesaleplanes.co.uk/ £149.99 instead of £199.00

skywarrior

Mike.

thank you

David

new2jets

try this link
http://www.planenutz.co.uk/

skywarrior

Hi just looking at your thread, how does this go with a Wren 44 Gold?
10.5 lbs version

Thanks

David

new2jets

well it will be like flying just over half throttle i`am using supersport 18+ lbs

Launch Pad McQuack

It will fly it just fine at lower altitudes with the lower power engines. Just don't expect much in the way of vertical. I have been flying with a Wren 54 throttled back to 8.5 lbs max thrust. The reaason for this is I am putting a Golden West in mine and wanted to get used to the lower power settings and still have it in reserve. She flies just fine at the lower power. You just have to use some energy managment when pulling vertical manuvers. I have had comments from several guys surprised I can keep it in so close and tight. I have a dozen flights on it now and just got all my mixes dialed in including standard flaps or crow if I need to get down quick. This thing will land on a dime and give you some change back, especially with brakes.

GreenAcre

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks Forrest!

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

The P-80 is a pretty heavy engine. Make sure you reinforce the rear fuse and engine mount area. There's an obvious weak spot at the right angle at the front of the mount surface. If you scroll back a ways in this thread you'll find a couple postings about it. After about 35 flights I finally bounced a landing and cracked the fuse there. Your P-80 is about a pound heavier than my Wren SS so it's likely to happen to you.

Joe

GreenAcre

My Feedback: (13)

Yep, I remember seeing the photo of the crack. I did reinforce it.

Nickosfly

So, as i read all this, i think the wren 44 gold will be a very good powerplant.......
A powerplant wich will not break your jet in two halves[:@] but enough power to move this jet fast.......

Nickos

BaldEagel

I have gone back 10 pages and the only reference to the weak engine mounting I can find is about a Bobcat, as yours has cracked on a landing could you detail what happened and how you overcame the problem?

Mike

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Mike,

You need to go a little further back. See post #1295
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_59...52/key_/tm.htm

My fuse cracked the same way. To fix it I added two 1/2" X 3/4" hardwood rails similar to what Tim did. It would be fairly easy to make this mod. while building. With an engine as heavy as a P-80 it is likely to happen.

Joe

new2-2jets

page 52 and 66 has engine mount cracks-you can also do a thread search at the bottom of any page.
mine started to crack after about 40 flights with a wren 54,i glued plywood on the inside and a fillet of hysol on the outside

BaldEagel

Joe

Thanks for that, looking at the whole rear end I am tempted to cut the whole rear end off and reprofile it to match the turbine with a purpose built mount, I am also toying with stripping the wings and glass sheeting them, but at the moment I can't do any of that as I have my right arm in plaster after an operation so all this is in the mind and is just a thought process that is designed to keep me from going mad with boredom.

Mike

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Sorry to hear about your arm, hope it gets better fast.

But look at this as an opportunity! Glue some sand paper on it and use it as a sanding block!!! [X(]

BaldEagel

Thanks for the thought, Trouble is I don't have many nobbly curved things to sand.

Mike

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

My tire's and wheels ended to big for the supplied wheel well inserts. I found that Krafts 8 oz cream cheese spread containers worked very well for
the job. This is the container. Ill post pix of the installed wells later.

GreenAcre

My Feedback: (13)

I put a bunch of gorilla glue in the mount area. It was tough to get in there, but I did. And as you can see by my mount the engine is resting on the outer rails.. No where near the front mount surface. Usually I land pretty smooth. Although have had a few rough landing's with my rookie. A guy at my club had put crow in his falcon and it GLIDES down! I will definitely add the crow.
Ha might help if I upload the pics!

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Greenacre,

I hate to tell you this but nothing you did will help the condition I'm referring to. That mount area is like a shelf cantilevered out from the back of the fuse. The stress from a load applied anywhere along that flat surface is concentrated along that 90 degree edge at the rear of the fuse. Putting a bunch of glue in there won't fix it. Those wood blocks you have by the engine are just adding weight and not helping at all.

If the designers had made the wood inside that mount shelf a bit longer so it extends inside the fuse a bit it would be a lot stronger. You need to do something to distribute the load to the rear structure of the fuse. Something like hardwood rails that will support the engine weight and are well secured inside the fuse in front of that sharp edge.

I also usually land pretty smoothly. This plane is easy to land and will slow down to walking speed with 45 degree flaps (without crow). But nobody bats 1000. Out of 75 flights so far I bounced one and it cracked back there.

Joe

GreenAcre

My Feedback: (13)

Joeflyer,
Then I will definitely put the hardwood rails to go into the fuse area!
Thanks,
Mario
Joeflyer, you have a photo of your fix with the hardwood rails?

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Mike,

Sorry about your injury. No need to cut the whole back off. That's a bit extreme. If you add the rails as mentioned you'll be fine. A friend is glassing his. It's a lot of work and not really necessary. Just strengthen it in the right areas and don't let the airflow get into the fuse or wings.

Mario,

The pictures in post #1295 are pretty good. Mine doesn't look much different. I don't have any pictures of the inside. The only thing I did different is that I carved a block of wood with a couple of notches to fit the rails and epoxied it inside the rear fuse. That may be overkill but I wanted to be sure that it was all tied together. Here's a few pictures.

Joe

jet junkie

WWWAAAAAY to many clever people on this forum!

Thanx for the great ideas mateys!

wil start my build soon found the perfect 1.5 litrs fuel bottle as "COLES" thats downunder for those who would like to know

BaldEagel

Joe

Thanks for the concern, what I have now thought about is cutting into the rear cantilever support at approx 20mm inside each edge and taking out the middle section, then remove the balsa inside the projecting two arms and putting in a couple of carbon rods projecting back into the fus and glue them in, this will allow lowering the turbine a little to clear the FOD guard as well.

As to extreme measures you will not belive the modifications I do to my composites to accomadate a cannister silencer, in fact most composites don't have the facility for a decent silencing system, the only one I have which does is the ARF Composite 2.1M Extra so what did I do to that, I converted it to electric, I must get out more.

Mike