tim777jet

I agree, i have seen lots of good and bad reports about these engines, I like the look of them, they are definately a lot more refined than my old home built, but still does the job admirably. ( how many reports have you seen about 2.4 ghz set ups crashing, I wouldnt fly with anything else!) My engine is putting out 13 lbs and that is a pretty good match. I assume the second engine mentioned might be 14 lbs (JJ1400), and I would favour 14 lbs instead of 12lbs. Weight is really not a problem, my plane now is 2 pounds lighter than my original, any better, its hard to tell, so if you can get 14 lbs instead of 12 with a slight increase in weight, go for it. up to 31 flights with new model and really enjoying it. Flying in freezing (well about 3 degree) murky weather, here in france and i would say my ultra-bright landing light which is on all the time gives me peace of mind. Really helps with the orientation. Chers Tim

jdimari

Thanks for the information on these turbines. I really want to try one of them out. I think it will be a good match. I'll try to contact Mark and ask him a few questions. Keep me posted on how they're running for you guys.

flyguide7

I am really a newb at turbines but this I know, when you have a machine that spins 60,000 to 150,000 rpms, it is critical to bearing life that the machine (in this case a turbine) is balanced. My friend balances turbines and that balance can take a lower end Jet Joe and put it on par with the higher priced units. He charges like 200.00 to balance one and it seems like a minor price to pay for the enhanced reliability and safety. Anyway my 2 cents. I have a JJ1400 balanced. It runs great. For the price difference, I would definitely go with the 1400 for the falcon.

Boomerang1

I just bolted up some aluminium angle on the smaller Bobcat. - John.

akpepp

Boomerang1...Great idea. I think thats the best way yet.IMHO

Boomerang1

Thanks akpepp. I posted it before but threads like this become so long it becomes hard to trace particular posts.

Also guys come along later on & are not aware of what was posted 15 pages ago! John.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Not trying to be overly critical but because Boomerang1's aluminum pieces are on the bottom of the fuse they do very little to support the mount area or tie it into the fuse structure. The only tie in is the two screws at the front of the aluminum pieces. In a downward impact on the mount area the aluminum would act like a lever and easily pull out the front screws or bend the aluminum just before the screw.

Joe

jdimari

Very good thought about the balance. Good to know there's someone out there that'll do it. Have to get me his # so I can get it set up. Also, what really is the final cost of the set up..ie turbine, fadec, etc?
Joe

akpepp

It depends on how well the two forward screws are supported. For supporting weight and bouncing a landing the angle on the forward end will try to go up because it will hinge on the point where the mount is attached to the fuse.

2Brave

My Feedback: (28)

Newtojets, I like the way yoiu mounted the servos in the wings. Where did you find the cover plates that the servos are mounted to? Also, what system of retracts are you using? Thanks

BaldEagel

Very true, but that means that extra work has to be done inside the fus to ensure the screws do not pull through the fibreglass skin, although a very nice looking cantilever beam solution it still requires extra support internally and if you are going this route you may as well construct the whole canitlever structure internally.

Mike

new2jets

servo covers are just standard wing servo covers which the servo screws to and then you screw the cover to the wing you get them from any hobby shop slec make them, The retracts are airpower 250 units and wheels & brakes with home made trailing links .

rocketman-RCU

My Feedback: (73)

2BRAVE

MY Nitro Planes AT6 came with servo covers exactly like those. Perhaps you can buy them from Nitro Planes.

Boomerang1

Yes, it did require 'extra support internally', a scrap of ply for the two self tapping screws.

As akepp said all the stress of a hard landing tries to push the angle up, not down, so the front screws really only locate the front of the aluminium angles.

Of course, if you are landing upside down, yes, the screws may pull out!

I'm not saying it's the most elegant solution, just the quickest, simplest, cheapest one.
It was also a convienient place to hinge an airbrake. - John.

NightFlyer1

I have Spring Airs 700 series for the falcon and when the front retract goes up the wire strut swivels! [:@]How do I make it retract straight into the fuse? (pull-pull steering)

BaldEagel

The front strut has a plastic square retainer with a wire vertical pin that fits into the steering arm, this flexes on steering, but keeps the leg straight on retracting, its very late in the UK at the moment, but when I get out to the hanger tomorrow I will take a pic and post for you.

Mike

NightFlyer1

Thanks!

tim777jet

Hey boomerang, great colour scheme, really suites the model, well impressed. Have you any better pics of the plane. How does the speed brake perform in flight. Any video?
cheers tim

Boomerang1

Hi Tim, sorry no video. Here's a couple of pics. Keep in mind this is the smaller Bobcat with a Wren 44. This has no flaps, hence the airbrake. The airbrake works well, you can approach a little steeper & speed control with the throttle is much easier. It swings down 90 degrees. - John.

tim777jet

looks great, I suppose the large difference in colour schemes top and bottom, help with orientation. what colour is your falcon?

BaldEagel

Nightflyer1

Three pics to show the centering pin position on the retracts, this should have come with your set, its a plastic unit that fits over the retract square pivoting arm.

Mike

BaldEagel

Couple of pics showing the shorter legs on the main UC and the cut outs needed to accomadate them, also shows the flaps if exchanged for the ones in the other wing, gives a straight edge at the TE of the flap recess and allows better instalation of pin hinges, I will post when I get around to doing that bit.

Mike

akpepp

Good to see what my prolinx should look like. I should be fitting mine to the plane tonight.

BaldEagel

akpepp

Before you fit them, have a prod around with a screwdriver you may find that the glue used to fix the retract bearer is a bit like honey and has not gone off, mine was still soft and the bearers came out quite cleanly.

Mike

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Just a tip: Do not cut the covering for the wheel well until you know exactly where your wheel will be located. The original strut length is quite long to provide prop clearance. The plane looks better sitting closer to the ground.

I mounted my retract, marked where the wheel well needed to be, and then cut the opening. I then cut a circle out of some scrap balsa and glued it from the inside to fill the original wheel cut out. That way it looks cleaner and you don't have to do any Monokote patching.

Joe