jimkron

Hey Fellow Falcon owners,
My EDF Falcon is ready for maiden.
Engine is a Tamjet TJ 100hp running on a pair of Hyperion 6s 5000mah batteries with a few degrees of down-thrust.
All up weight is 17.5 pounds.

Questions: How do you set your elevator? Should it be flush with the bottom of the horizontal stableizer?
Do you use the aileron, elevator, and flap throws suggested in the manual.... or a little more?

Thanks,

jim

jetflyr

She looks good Jim!
I used 120% of reccomended aileron (after several flights dialing it in.....never did go to the low rate setting!, with25% expo)
Flap is 90mm deflection with 30% up aileron in crow
Elevator is 45* throw.

Good luck on your maiden!
Greg

jimkron

Thanks,
How did you set the elevator? Is it flush to the bottom of the horizontal stableizer?

jim

Grodus

Jim, both of mine have done well with the elevator set flush with the top of the stab. Both with a cg @13"

Grodus

Chris your struts look great. Is the lenght so that they would fit into the existing wheel wells? Or are they shorter?

Cody

gchdavid

Actually its a bit of both. I designed them and chose a spring so that when the gear is down and the airplane is on the ground they will be compressed (not all the way of course) making them shorter and improving the appearance of the model.

However, when the load is removed and they extend fully extend they will line up with the stock wheel wells.

It wont be as short as one with shorter ones but it wont be as robotic looking as one with really long (Stock) ones.

Best regards,

Chris

gchdavid

Hello!

Quick update on the struts. The front one is pretty much finished and works great and the rear ones are about 70% there.

As discussed earlier, these will fit the stock wheel wells when the retract but should allow the plane to settle down a bit so it doesn't look so tall.

Let me know what you think.

Chris

gchdavid

Here are two pics of the main struts once the spring was installed on each one. They feel really sturdy. Now I need to define the overall length and shorten them to my needs. Then machine the tops so that they can be mounted onto the retracts.

Yesterday I made some nice mounts for the engine and got it installed (partially). Now I am waiting for the retracts to arrive so I can assemble that part of the plane and for us to finish drinking a cranberry juice bottle that is 64oz and the right shape so I can make the formers for the fuse...lol, she is still wandering why I like this juice so much when I usually prefer grape juice...lol

Chris

tim777jet

Hi Chris, those legs look the bussiness. I would measure mine up and give you some idea of lengths, but I am working away in Saudi at moment, so cant help, cheers tim

madfreestyler

Hey All,

Ive finally managed to clear the decks a bit so that i can progress with the Falcon build. I have a question around the turbine mount. Looking at the original it was suggested to raise it 15mm then have 6 degrees of down thrust. Would anyone concur with this?

Also would 3mm stud x 4 be ok to hold in place or is a more robust setup required?

What size tanks are you using for brakes?

fireblade5437

I used around 4.5 deg down thrust for my Wren 54 III. Stays level when applying full thrust.

I also used one large tank for Jet A1's and brakes which I stuck in the nose (pics earlier in thread), I normally use two tanks, but this has worked out fine and no leaks what so ever.


Alan

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Mad,

It depends on which engine you'll be using. Most are using 5 degrees of downthrust, which is about right for a 14# class engine. If you're going with an 18# class engine then 6 degrees would be better.

I wouldn't raise the engine any more than necessary. Ideally it should be on the fuse center line.

I would think that (4) 3 mm. studs would be sufficient for a 14 or 18# engine.

I have a single tank (about a 300 cc.) for retracts (Robart) & brakes (BVM). Your requirements may vary depending on what brand you choose and which control valves you use.

Joe

madfreestyler

Im running RA250's air up and down, figured id separate the tanks for max pressure for the retracts and have reserve for the brakes. Ive never used duals before so wasn't sure which was best option.

Turbine wise running a PST600R think they are arounf 15lbs or there abouts. Guess 6 deg would be ok for this?

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Who is selling the falcon kit now in the UK that actually has them in stock ? wholesaleplanes used to do them but dropped a big part of there range when they became ashford model centre.

madfreestyler

Got mine from colchester a1 but it was about a year ago (yep i am a slow builder )

fireblade5437

CCRC has them he was selling at Long Marston airshow for around £140 he has them in a star and stripes scheme very nice... currently £155.00 which is a snip considering how well they fly!

[link]http://www.ccrcmodels.com/falcon-120.php[/link]


Alan

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

I recommend 5 degrees.

Joe

madfreestyler

How about the height with this engine should the original mounts do it or do they need to be raised? I think the PST is simular in size to the MW54's.

f6hlct

My Feedback: (4)

I have been doing more building than flying lately, so progress on the Falcon has been slower than I would like. I would like to pass on the way that I did my canopy. I am using the flimsy factory one, but I have made up for the weakness with a little structural integrity. I used the cockpit vertical members made of balsa to hold the balsa floor in its curved shape until the canopy could be glued in place. A few strips on the bottom, and this unit is solid and light. Also with the factory tint, you cannot see the grain in the balsa, so a quick spray of flat black does the trick. The latch is pretty common, but I moved the latch into the solid structure at the back of the cockpit structure. Normally the vertical part of the latch pin would have to be very long to be able to retract it for putting the canopy on, but I used the concept of a latch door. All you have to do is push down on the back of the canopy, and the latch slides up the tapered grove and engages.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

The PST 600 is basically a Wren 54 clone. As I said above Here's what mine looks like.

madfreestyler

Just wondered what this is in relation to the original mounts. My judgement by eye aint the best, would rather be more accurate if poss.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the link never came across them before, the one he sells seems different from others with a top hatch

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Do you mean the blocks of wood that came with the kit? A few modified them to mount a turbine. You can look back in this thread to see how they did it.

Regardless of what you use for a mount I suggest that you put the engine at 5 degrees and lower the engine as much as possible. Mine almost touches the rear of the engine shelf. Also that shelf needs to be reinforced. I suggest that you read this entire thread before starting.

Joe

BaldEagel

I thought that, but that hatch will not fit the opening in the fus, I think its the whole canopy moulding that has been sprayed and needs to be cut down in size to fit.

Mike

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I wish these chineese manuf would stop spraying the canopies with this smoke effect spray. There is a nice 71" super chipmunk that I like but put off because of the canopy, also a friend bought a big 95" twin and all the canopies were smoked he ended up making new screens for it.