opwan

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Man that Habu is nice!

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I could develop the method I use for the finishing and the weathering of the A10. But I don't know if I start a new thread or continue in this one ?

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Perhpas a new one "weathering my MIBO A10"?

Your plane looks great and I for one would love to read your thread so I cna get my A10 looking a bit more weathered.

thanks

Dave

Roger Shipley

My Feedback: (35)

Oh yea please post on this thread as dozens of hog owners have followed it for years.

ddennison

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Sorry Roger, was just thinking of when searching in the future etc.
I will be happy regardless of where it is posted

D

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For those who select the same painting scheme as mine here are the RAL code of the two grey I used.
The light Grey is RAL7047
The dark grey is RAL7040
Both are mat finish.
Don't worry about the quality of the spraying or little imperfections. That will be totally invisible at the end.
Now with my little experience ( 3 aircrafts ) I apply the decal set before weathering. Otherwise all decals will apear absolutely new on a heavy weathered aircraft !!!
For the decals my only source is Ralle KNALLE from TaylorMadeDecal. He can even personnalyse your own set of decals; Here is the link:
http://www.tailormadedecals.com/
The decal set for the A10 contains hundred and hundred of small detail decals. Absolutely Fabulous !
After that, it's compulsory to spray a light coat of mat lack to protect your decals of the weathering operations. After the weathering you will be able to spray the 2 or 3 coat of mat lack to really finish your job.

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Concerning the weathering itself, I use oil paint used by artist.
1 tube of dark and 1 tube of brown are enought for the entire A10.
I mixed them together in a pot.
I thin them with " essence de terebenthine" , oil of turpentine in english. It's used for wood furnitures.
Oil paint have consistency of dental paste and I thin that to obtain consistency of heavy cream.

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mix

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oil of turpentine

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now you take a lot of cotton cloth ( rag ) and you wipe the surface of the aircraft like on the pic.
do your first test on the extrados of the stab ( underside )

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the most important is that the "cream" fill all panels lines. You really need to cover all the surface. Like on the intrados of the wing on the pic.

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What a goddam mess in my workshop !!!!

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1 or 2 hour later you can wipe the black surface with a clean cotton cloth. I used almost all my uniform shirts
It's easier if you have dampened the cloth with a very, very little of oil of turpentine.
At this stage you can graduate the level of weathering. If you wipe almost all the "black oil" your weathering will be light, otherwise it will be heavier.
BUT the MOST IMPORTANT..... always, always wipe in the direction of the air during the flight.

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Now you can see on the two next pics that this method of weathering emphasize all the engraved lines, panel, and rivets. The gen4 is plenty of all this detail...

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You can simulate the leak of hydraulic or lubrican around the servicing doors. Do this with a very thin brush and 1 hour later you can dim that by wipping slightly with a clean rag

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tool to create tracks of oil cans.

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for the footprints I used the boots of the pilot himself. Even in the "no step" ereas, if you want to be realistic !

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think about the movement of air aroud the surface. Here the karman.
You can do that effect by wipping with a cloth of cotton and " black cream"

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here you can see the cloth

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here you can see the difference between weathered aircraft and un-weathered.
The aircraft seems really to be alive

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Around some panel I add extremely small screws. Here is the link ( I choose the smallest )
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/y.html (thank to Joe Grice )
To emphasize them, with a small brush I put a drop of "black cream" on each head of screw. 1 hour later when the "cream" is almost dry I whipe it with a rag and that produce the effect you can see.

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right side

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You can scrap the decal to simulate the loss of painting.
You can see that on the american banner on this pic

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pic

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oil leak