Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

I got new pipes from MIBO (Oliver) to replace my old ones (the ones that were repaired with 4/40 screws at the spot weld line).

On the new ones, I reinforced the seam with 3 layers of aluminum tape on the outside. That should hold ... let's see.
Also, I applied 2 coats of BVM Heat Shield to the inside of the tail cone to protect it in case of pipe failure.

Stan: Yes, the carbon bell mouth is not affected by the temperature. It still looks brand new on mine.

ddennison

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Oli,
Are the new Gen 5 taipipes any different than what Jack had with Gen 4 initially?

Thanks,
Dave

Jack Diaz

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Dave, the ones I just got are identical to the old ones.

Carsten Groen

Thanks a lot Kirk!
I have the operating canopy already done (by an Austrian company, Kager Modellbau) and I think they used their own stuff for that ?
I have attached a few pictures of my canopy, can you tell me if these 3 carbon parts are needed or not from these ?

I'm still wondering what the long carbon piece is for ?!
(maybe also in the canopy section?)

Threads like this is worth a million. We are a bunch of guys building the same airplane and even though we are seperated by 1000's of miles (and different languages) all works out perfectly

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

Quote:

One conclusion is that A-10 owners respect each other and don't use insults as their normal communication method

kirkj

My Feedback: (61)

yes, i installed the same Mibo canopy system as you have, and i would recommend adding them to that area. you can build up the 3 pieces in a "C" shape then glue it to the inside of the fuse around that square opening. you may have to trim that former a bit more, and slot it for the "C" leg tabs. also make sure as you glue up the "C" shape that you orient the curved piece so the cutout for the seam matches the seam itself. look at it and it will make sense.

olnico

Same ones I guess.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Carsten - I will check mine tonight or this weekend. MY canopy is installed with the same mechanism you have. There is some reinforcement around the aft fuse hatch but I will take a picture of the reinforcement at the aft end of the canopy mechanism within the fuse.

Carsten Groen

Thanks Dave!
I think I know what you mean but a picture would be worth a lot

stoneenforcer

My Feedback: (23)

Sweet bird. Maybe Edf??

STAN-CAUSSEL

In order to adopt Carsten recommendation and Jack's theory, here is how I modify my exhaust.
I cut 3 inches of the exhaust tube ( it was damaged on the last 3 inches ), then I move it back ward ( as I can not move forward the engine ).
Now the tube is at the same angle as the engine, and there is approx 3/4 inches of gap.
Next step I'll paint the inside of the fiber scale exhaust with 2 coat of BVM heat shield.

instead of that :

STAN-CAUSSEL

For those who are interested in the "nuclear" version...
http://www.schuebeler-jets.de/hdt-im...4-dia-hdt.html

Carsten Groen

Nice Stan, will be interesting to see if there is any difference with the new setup!

I did a lot of soldering yesterday, the connection to the engine nacelles consists only of a 4mm Festo bulkhead connector and a Multiplex connector. This is all that is needed to connect the P100RX engines. Makes it very easy to disassemble if needed. I have made an extension cable inside the plane, this is 1.2 meter long and will allow me to have the ECU/pump just behind the canopy. I asked JetCat of the max allowed length of the cable between then engine and ECU and was told that max i 150 cm and the 3 thick wires needs to be beefed up a bit.
I will make a cable of approx 40 cm length and put that into the nacelle so I will end at a total of 160 cm. The standard cable uses 0.75 mm2 wires for the heavy one, I have used 2.5mm2 for the heavy wires in the extension cable.

The cables from each wing uses a SUBD-15 pin connector (3 x servos and the lights needs a total of 13 contacts). Both the female and the male part are both of good quality and gold plated contacts

A few pictures of what I have done

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Carsten,
That all looks great! I had been rehearsing the "how do I slide the turbine in and plug things in neatly since I can't reach anything once it is installed?"....

I am trying the opposite approach so we will have to compare notes later. Since the 100Rx is small and has the relatively small and light ECU, I am putting them on a small (sliding) tray just aft of the tanks to try and use the standard Wire harness. I think with the better batteries these days and the longer run with larger wire should be fine. A friend of mine had some trouble with long runs in his SR71 a few years ago. Seem to be solved with battery and wire size.

Stan, you get things done so quickly!!! Did you change the spring or fluid in the shocks for your A10 with twin 160s?

DD

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi Carsten
Just a suggestion. When you will slide-in your engine, you will have to pull on both electric and fuel tubes to avoid them going on hot parts of the engine.
The only way to do that is to pull from inside the fuse. But with your connectors it's not possible to do that.
This is also another reason for preferring the " conventional " engine mounting with a large door.
Stan

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi DD
Yes of course I changed the springs and fluid on my 2 A10. They are weighting 70 pounds (35Kg) at take off and with original spring/fluid the gear was largely in the red zone.
Earlier in this thread I discuss of that with Roger Shipley and he send me a set of springs more thought.
I also change the fluid, using absorber miniature car's fluid. They have a large choice in all hobby shop. I used a very more viscous fluid.
Moreover I change installation of springs and install them into the upper chamber of the strut ( out of the fluid ) so that the volume of fluid is far more important.
200 Flights later everything is perfectly working.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Stan, sorry I lost track of some of the early topics in the thread.

DD

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Hi Carsten,
i am not sure if these will help but here are a few pics from the aft end of my canopy/fuse.

Carsten Groen

You are partly right Stan, however I will make the cable and tube as short as possible and they wil be in the nacelle near the "opening" so that they wil not come in contact with the hot section. On top of that, I have made the opening right behind the front tube so it is very close to the front of the engine. Remember I have the miniature P100 in it so lots of room

Carsten Groen

Thanks Dave, but as far as I see, there is already a lot of "meat" around the small door in mine ??
Anyway, I will see when I get to that if it is possible to fit the pieces in there!
Thanks for the picture!

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Those wood pieces should be the rails. They are glued on either side of the wood frame. Then the aft ends of the rails, sanded slightly round, inserts into two vertical slots to hold the aft end of the assembly. I will add another picture this afternoon.

STAN-CAUSSEL

I made a heat shield using the damage part of the exhaust tube I cut.
I screwed some bolts between the shield and the fiber to manage a cold flow of air.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

I am not installing the fans...so does my spinner just glue to the front of the "screen" piece?

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

I also am not sure what you guys are using to mount the pylons to the wings? I did not receive any metal screws. For the pylons I received white metric plastic screws and then the gray pieces and antisway mechanisms. Are the white plastic scows for mounting the pylons or for mounting the antisway bars to the pylon?

Carsten Groen

Dave, you have to use metric screws for the pylon-to-wing mount. M4 (4 mm) is what you need!
I'm also wondering about the white screws!