cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Hi,

How are you guys mounting the pipe in? I know that gluing the bottom half of the bypass and the snug fit of the last bulkhead holds it but that doesnt seem good enough. I was thinking of adding some support behind the motor/bypass area.

leider

My Feedback: (2)

Hope it helps

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Brilliant! Thank you for the reply

-Carl

tow

My solution

koenvlieg

In the manual, you can see that your turbine is not deep enough in the cone.
I will let make one on my specifications : half the weight and the turbine can be put even more forward, My estimation is to win with it about 400 grms on the whole plane, becaus lead in the nose can also be saved.

tow

How will you get the turbine more forward? You have to relate it to the total-lenght of the pipe being flush with the rear-end exit. Fine if you can save some lead-weight, but my plane flies just fine with the extra weight.

kimhey

No need to go the extra mile to save 400gr (or 800gr for that matter).


Kim

jetster81

Any weight saved is a plus for flyability

tow

True, but my experience is, the MiG flies even better (or so It feels) especially in windy conditions with some extra weight. It has a lot of wing-area remember. But generally Yes, lighter is better!

koenvlieg

I decided not to pay so much money to save 400 grms on a total weight from +- 13 kgs. So 400 grms lead was enough, to compare with the old version I put more than 1000 grms in the nose.
Does anyone try a century jets mig 15 cockpit in a carf mig 15 ?

leider

My Feedback: (2)

Good question ! I need to start building one so the answer can be a time saver for me.

teamkaos

See post #365

leider

My Feedback: (2)

Thank you teamkaos !

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Hi,

I have the latest version Mig with the carbon wing rods. Has anyone found theirs to fit a little loose? When I first put the wings on you could move the ends of the wing up and down quite a bit...like over an inch. I lightly scuffed the rods and brushed some epoxy resin on them, then used 400 grit to sand smooth again. This helped quite a bit and I may repeat it till it gets good and tight. Im just curious if anyone else has seen this before?

-Carl

Dave Wilshere

That sounds like a bad one, but the fits do vary. You are doing the right thing. Never fly with movement, the load change is huge.

Dw

koenvlieg

I had the same problem and also put some epoxy on it until the play is a minimum.

fg

koen

Craig B.

I had the same issue on mine. They fitted like a foot in a bucket. Size discrepancy was around a mm or slightly more and someone on here told me that could not possibly be the case....well it was. I ended up getting some oversized carbon rods from my carf rep and turning them down until they were a good fit. Should not have to do that stuff. I cannot understand why carf produce such nicely detailed scale models with fundamental floors in basic engineering when their sport models are so well engineered....frustrating!

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Thanks for the responses, Yeah I almost thought of just gluing the carbon rods in the wing sockets permanently and then using resin to fill up the fuse voids. At least then I would know I would have zero slop in the wing halves...Just a thought? I just hate to have to do that. Overall I have been happy with this kit, I knew from the get go that this kit was from an old set of molds but had been updated a bit. There have been some frustrating parts though...the wing fit, main gear springs, nose wheel steering, etc. Overall I feel CARF builds a great airplane and I plan on buying many more! Thanks for the input guys

-Carl

tow

Thought I share what I did w. the landing light. This is the correct position and function in the MiG-15 bis!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjF2...ature=youtu.be

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Tow that looks awesome! Great job

-Carl

tow

Thanks! It`s really not hard to do. If interested I can post some pics to show how :-)

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Im sure people would like to see, I however have already done mine in the top of the intake duct. Im starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel as far as building my Mig. Ill post some pics at some point. 3-4 months of winter ahead so I am going to take my time and make it nice.

tow

This also is correct. The early versions of the MiG had the LL in the intake splitter. The Chinese variant continued to use this placement thruout the production. On the later - Soviet and I belive Polish - production series (bis) this got re-located to the left wing underside. The CARF have this position marked on the wing panel so the choise is yours.
This is the time of year to put on some detailing and as you state - make it nice! Will see if I can dig up some photos of the landing-light detail later on. Keep up the work! This is a great flying machine! :-)

tow

Here`s a little something for those who may want to make the "scale landing-light" for the CARF MiG. I apologize for the somewhat bad pics but you should get the general idea I hope. If any questions, feel free to ask Now for some little explanation : The Landing Light-lamp itself is a 35mm spotlight, originally designed for your housing, but it will also happily work on a 3s Li Po battery.
The lamp is then glued to a offset-hinge and operated by servo on a radio-channel of your choise for the in-out function. The little gizmo in last pic is a electronic switch that, when Y-connected to the operating ch on the receiver will operate power to the lamp accordingly. As seen in the former video, this works great! As already stated - if any questions, feel free to ask. Good Luck! :-)

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Hi,

Ive been installing the flap servos/linkages in the wings and I had a couple questions. Do the flaps droop down when the aircraft has no power to the servos? I had a hell of a time getting the control horn geometry correct so that it was not putting a huge load on the servo when extended. Im running 8411's and I decided to mount the servos in the wing vs. on the hatch cover. To me it is much easier to set the flaps up that way. Im running the shortest horns that I can get away with on the servo so I can get all the torque I can. They seem to be ok now but they dont stay in the up position without the power being on. In fact i think I saw almost a half an amp draw when in the up position on my Powerbox Royal. Just curious what others have found...

Thanks Guys!

-Carl