Originally Posted by kimhey

The Carf Mig is the easiest jet to fly of all my current jets (aw mig-21, Carf Eurosport and Air-c-Race L-29). Actually, it is even easier than the Boomerang Elan that I once had. The only things I can tell, is to go easy on the expo on elevator. It is a small elevator, and therefor not as efficient as many other models. I started at 35% expo on elevator, and ended at 15%, which is so little that I could most likely just drop expo. At 35%, the model became nervous at landing (flare), since you have to pull a decent amount of elevator to get the nose up at low airspeed. Talking about airspeed on landing..... The manual states that you can land the Mig very slow, and that is very true. The Mig will GLADLY start to bounce multiple times if you land fast. Been there, done that...and it is not pretty
Ailerons are not very effective, so get as much throw as you can, I got 30-ish mm measured at aileron root (don't recall what the manual suggests). Rudder is 50mm.
I use gyro (no expo)on both ailerons and rudder. Rudder is a must, ailerons makes it look like the real thing and not a model..

I actually like the Mig so much, that I have been close to buying one more several times, just to have one in reserve.

That said, there are issues with the kit They are related to the building prosess, and since you are ready for maiden, you have obviously solved them

Good luck with the maiden!

Originally Posted by Auburn02

If you find some pics let me know, thanks!

On to another question, which could probably be its own thread as it's not entirely specific to the CARF MiG - I'm swapping in the Intairco retracts for the originals, and upon bolting in the new nose gear and right main, I hooked up the whole system, filled it to ~120 psi, but there just isn't enough oomph to retract the gear. It extends fine, and will unlock the gear when I slide the valve to close them but won't bring them up into the wells. There's no obstruction keeping them from going, and I can push them closed by hand. So I pulled the main gear out and hooked an air compressor directly to the "up" side of the cylinder. From down and locked, even air straight out of the compressor doesn't bring the gear to up/locked. Per the gauge on the compressor itself, I'm pressurizing the line/cylinder to well over 100 psi.

You guys have any idea what this would indicate? In my head it can only be one of two things, the pivoting gear leg is clamped too tightly in the mounting bracket (seems unlikely) or the piston is meeting a lot of resistance in the cylinder. I tried getting a little bit of oil into the cylinder and will try more if necessary when I get back to working on it, just thought I'd check in and see if anyone has had similar issues with this or any other pneumatic gear and have some suggestions.

Originally Posted by Vincent

Do you use the speed brakes for landing??
Thx Vin...

Originally Posted by Auburn02

If you find some pics let me know, thanks!

On to another question, which could probably be its own thread as it's not entirely specific to the CARF MiG - I'm swapping in the Intairco retracts for the originals, and upon bolting in the new nose gear and right main, I hooked up the whole system, filled it to ~120 psi, but there just isn't enough oomph to retract the gear. It extends fine, and will unlock the gear when I slide the valve to close them but won't bring them up into the wells. There's no obstruction keeping them from going, and I can push them closed by hand. So I pulled the main gear out and hooked an air compressor directly to the "up" side of the cylinder. From down and locked, even air straight out of the compressor doesn't bring the gear to up/locked. Per the gauge on the compressor itself, I'm pressurizing the line/cylinder to well over 100 psi.

You guys have any idea what this would indicate? In my head it can only be one of two things, the pivoting gear leg is clamped too tightly in the mounting bracket (seems unlikely) or the piston is meeting a lot of resistance in the cylinder. I tried getting a little bit of oil into the cylinder and will try more if necessary when I get back to working on it, just thought I'd check in and see if anyone has had similar issues with this or any other pneumatic gear and have some suggestions.

Originally Posted by tow

As I have the "new" version, I imagne splitting the hatch to obtain a removable mid-section would be the way to go. Quite a task to undertake, but should be doable. Good Luck!

Originally Posted by Auburn02

Very helpful Pondus, thanks!

As to my gear issue, I now have the main gear in the wing retracting fine...probably too fast actually, it really slams up into the wing. But when I try to lower it, the unlock won't release on its own. If I push up on the gear I feel a click, then it comes down via the air pressure in the lines. So it's like unlock is jammed until I free it by pushing up on the wheel, if that makes sense. I suspect the gear rails aren't true and it's getting in a bind, but any tips on getting the rails exact would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by kimhey

Good question! I have found out that takeoff flaps and speedbrakes is the best configuration for MY landings. I have done my landings this way for the last year or so. Full flaps and no speed brakes makes the Mig wanna "waggle" it's tail when the speed decreases. Full flaps and speedbrakes works great most of the time, but it might "bite"/(stop flying) you from time to time (only takeoff flaps is acutally better).

So....Personally I have worked my way to the conclution that takeoff flaps and speedbrakes (they open 13-14cm) is my favorite landing configuration.

Kim

Originally Posted by tow

Quite a minor bind will cause this to happen. The rails have to be absolutely true. Also make sure the wheels don`t touch the wheel-well bottom (wing-skin) when retracted.

Originally Posted by Auburn02

Yeah, I think I still have some shimming left to go to get the wheel off the wing skin...with the gear retracted it's touching lightly enough that I can spin the tire in the well, but it's definitely rubbing the skin a bit. I have the gear shimmed 1/16" off the rails, and even with just that much the outer door won't close flush against the bottom of the wing so I was hoping to avoid shimming them up any more if I can avoid it. I may be able to grind down the front edge of the retract bracket itself for clearance if needed.

Originally Posted by Auburn02

Yeah, I think I still have some shimming left to go to get the wheel off the wing skin...with the gear retracted it's touching lightly enough that I can spin the tire in the well, but it's definitely rubbing the skin a bit. I have the gear shimmed 1/16" off the rails, and even with just that much the outer door won't close flush against the bottom of the wing so I was hoping to avoid shimming them up any more if I can avoid it. I may be able to grind down the front edge of the retract bracket itself for clearance if needed.

Originally Posted by tow

I`m Gonna try that config.too! As for the tail-wiggle..... Use of a gyro is mentioned in the manual as well. I have one of these http://www.eagletreesystems.com/inde...&product_id=50
Will it do the job?

Originally Posted by Craig B.

You have found the source of your problem. Wheels should never touch the top skin as Kim has alluded to. This will cause any retract to bind up and not unlock. Just shim the gear slightly so you have slight clearance and the wheel can spin freely, then the locking pin will not bind in the retract side frames.....easy fix.

Originally Posted by Auburn02

Well I think you were right about why the gear wouldn't unlock. I shimmed with washers just to get the clearance needed so the tire isn't touching the bottom of the wheel well and it now retracts fine (using both cylinders/rams), and on extension it unlocks and lowers about halfway and stops. I thought maybe the mount was twisted a bit on the rails so I loosened the mounting screws but no improvement. It's like I just don't have enough pressure getting to the extension side of the cylinder. Not sure if this will work as I'm planning, but going to hook up an extra air gauge at the wing root instead of hooking up the down line, and when I cycle the valve I'll see how much pressure is going out on that line. Maybe I just have a restriction somewhere.

Originally Posted by Auburn02

Well I think i got it now. Had a friend look at it and he felt it was just too stiff in the housing in general, even when it wasn't mounted in the airplane. Looks like the pivot arm itself was being clamped too tightly by the mounting brackets, so I put a single washer at one end of the spacer between the two side brackets and the gear works much smoother now.