Reaction ARF - PST/BTE All-Composite Sport Jet
02-15-2016, 04:38 PM
#1101
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Location: Brisvagus Queensland, AUSTRALIA
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I have 75 degrees of flap for landing my long nose Reaction. I recently added 3/16" of crow (up aileron) with landing flaps. It makes the plane even more predictable in landing and reduces the floating. Give it a try.
Other recent modifications include a new component board mounted low and replacing the nose wheel steering servo mount, a dual nose wheel, and the forward search radar blister under the nose, and I finally started the mold for the anhedral stab.
Jim
Other recent modifications include a new component board mounted low and replacing the nose wheel steering servo mount, a dual nose wheel, and the forward search radar blister under the nose, and I finally started the mold for the anhedral stab.
Jim
I will try the crow set up - I already have this set up on my radio I just have to throw the switch - will try it next time.
TBag.
02-15-2016, 05:06 PM
#1102
My Feedback: (10)
I have 75 degrees of flap for landing my long nose Reaction. I recently added 3/16" of crow (up aileron) with landing flaps. It makes the plane even more predictable in landing and reduces the floating. Give it a try.
Other recent modifications include a new component board mounted low and replacing the nose wheel steering servo mount, a dual nose wheel, and the forward search radar blister under the nose, and I finally started the mold for the anhedral stab.
Jim
Other recent modifications include a new component board mounted low and replacing the nose wheel steering servo mount, a dual nose wheel, and the forward search radar blister under the nose, and I finally started the mold for the anhedral stab.
Jim
Now that I see your photos I realize I met you at the Coachella Jet Jam a week ago. I also spotted for you a couple of flights.
I'm in the process of correcting the turbine mounting plates and will set them at 15 degrees down in relation to the top of fuse.
BTW all, Jim is a very good pilot and flew his Reaction really well at the Jet Jam. Can't wait to get mine completed.
Bob
02-20-2016, 09:46 PM
#1105
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Location: Brisvagus Queensland, AUSTRALIA
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Well I did the crow addition to 3 flights yesterday - landings actually. It does slow it down a little more and is more stable but I found it takes more elevator to make it flare a few more flights will get me better dialed into the landings.
I just recently installed live airspeed telemetry activated by throwing the landing gear switch, nice addition with voice feedback telling me IAS on approach, I did notice with the crow added it doesn't allow the model to accelerate as much during final decent onto the strip slowing it down more, it still gains airspeed during steep descent at our field but not as much.
John
I just recently installed live airspeed telemetry activated by throwing the landing gear switch, nice addition with voice feedback telling me IAS on approach, I did notice with the crow added it doesn't allow the model to accelerate as much during final decent onto the strip slowing it down more, it still gains airspeed during steep descent at our field but not as much.
John
02-20-2016, 10:00 PM
#1106
My Feedback: (10)
Well I did the crow addition to 3 flights yesterday - landings actually. It does slow it down a little more and is more stable but I found it takes more elevator to make it flare a few more flights will get me better dialed into the landings.
I just recently installed live airspeed telemetry activated by throwing the landing gear switch, nice addition with voice feedback telling me IAS on approach, I did notice with the crow added it doesn't allow the model to accelerate as much during final decent onto the strip slowing it down more, it still gains airspeed during steep descent at our field but not as much.
John
I just recently installed live airspeed telemetry activated by throwing the landing gear switch, nice addition with voice feedback telling me IAS on approach, I did notice with the crow added it doesn't allow the model to accelerate as much during final decent onto the strip slowing it down more, it still gains airspeed during steep descent at our field but not as much.
John
Bob
02-21-2016, 06:59 AM
#1107
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Bob
I also started with 3/16" but I found that towards the end of the approach the model wouldn't descend/sink so I must add in a little more I would now start at 1/4" next time and add a little more down elevator to 1/8" down. Whilst the setup didn't allow the model to gain as much airspeed on descent (braking effect was better than with flaps only) it wouldn't sink when in level flight during the final stage of approach requiring slightly more down elevator to compensate.
John
I also started with 3/16" but I found that towards the end of the approach the model wouldn't descend/sink so I must add in a little more I would now start at 1/4" next time and add a little more down elevator to 1/8" down. Whilst the setup didn't allow the model to gain as much airspeed on descent (braking effect was better than with flaps only) it wouldn't sink when in level flight during the final stage of approach requiring slightly more down elevator to compensate.
John
02-21-2016, 11:00 AM
#1108
My Feedback: (10)
Bob
I also started with 3/16" but I found that towards the end of the approach the model wouldn't descend/sink so I must add in a little more I would now start at 1/4" next time and add a little more down elevator to 1/8" down. Whilst the setup didn't allow the model to gain as much airspeed on descent (braking effect was better than with flaps only) it wouldn't sink when in level flight during the final stage of approach requiring slightly more down elevator to compensate.
John
I also started with 3/16" but I found that towards the end of the approach the model wouldn't descend/sink so I must add in a little more I would now start at 1/4" next time and add a little more down elevator to 1/8" down. Whilst the setup didn't allow the model to gain as much airspeed on descent (braking effect was better than with flaps only) it wouldn't sink when in level flight during the final stage of approach requiring slightly more down elevator to compensate.
John
05-30-2016, 12:10 PM
#1109
I finally got around to molding the anhedral stab for my Phantom Reaction. For those interested in how to mold parts, here are some pics.
I had bought a stab from the factory to use as a plug. It was a custom order in that the elevator had not been cut/slotted. The stab was cut into three pieces (left stab, center section, right stab) and then I sanded the mating surfaces at a 10 degree angle using a table sander. The three pieces were glued together to give 20 degrees of anhedral to each half of the stab. The joints were then puttied and sanded, and the entire plug was and wet sanded smooth. This completed the "plug".
Next I went down to Lowes and bought a 2'x4' section of whiteboard (about $10) and a hot glue gun. I cut a few strips of whiteboard about 2-1/2" wide to use as the mold parting plane. These were hot glued to the edges of the plug such that the white surface was on the seam. I find it is easiest to build up "globs" of hot glue on the back (non-white) surface of the whiteboard.
I never manage to get the joints to be a perfect fit, so a bit of sanding is done to blend the joints.
You can see in the photo that there are some small gaps between the edge of the whiteboard and the edge of the stab. This is typical at curved areas such as the wingtips or, as per the photo above, at the transition to the center section. These gaps are filled in with children's molding clay (available from an arts and craft store such as Michael's). Kneed the clay to warm/soften it and then roll it into a long roll then lay it along the joint between the wood and the plug. Push the clay into the gap then use a small putty knife or spatula to cut away the excess.
Next, apply some silicon pads to the parting plane to serve as locating "pins". Use clear parcel tape to tape over any areas of the parting plane that you sanded (I forgot to do this, D-oh!) to seal the sanded surface. Then spray the plug and parting plane with mold release (which gives it a blue/green shade).
Next, cut the fiberglass cloth. I cut the cloth to cover one half of the plug (with enough to overlap a couple of inches at the center). I cut enough for one layer of 3/4 oz, two layers of 4 oz, and 5 layers of 10 oz (total about 60 oz stack-up). A roller cutter (available from a sewing store like Joanne's Fabrics) makes the job a lot faster. You can also use a cutting mat (to prevent dulling the blade), but I cut on a plastic topped table which seems to do a good job preserving the blade and I don't have to fuss with putting the cloth on a cutting mat.
Next, mix up some resin and micro-balloons to form a slurry. Use enough micro-balloons that the mixture is thick enough so that it doesn't run (like the icing for a cake). Use paper to make a pastry bag (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdrgGGR4txc) and fill it with the slurry. Squeeze a bead of the slurry around the outside of the stab and around the silicon bumpers. The slurry is used to fill in these areas otherwise you will tend to get voids in the mold as the glass cloth will not get into the corners. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture.
Next lay the 3/4 oz glass cloth over the plug/parting plane and use a disposable 1" paint brush to brush on the resin. You want to completely saturate the cloth over the plug and over the parting plane. Be gentle to not pull the cloth away from the transition between the plug and the whiteboard. The photo below was taken after the 3/4 oz layer was applied and I have just laid the first piece of 4oz on top of the left side. You can just see the white slurry around the stab & bumpers around the right side of the stab.
I use West Systems resin/hardener with the pump fittings. This lets me quickly mix up a little bit of resin at a time (4 pumps of each). If I mixed any more, it would start to cure in the cup (it was about 90 degrees in my garage in Phoenix when I laid up the mold). Mix a bit, apply the cloth, mix a bit more, etc. Once all the layers are applied, let it cure overnight.
Next, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to trim the edges of the cloth even with the parting plane.
Next, flip the stab over and CAREFULLY use a chisel to cut away the beads of hot glue. The glue should pull away from the plug without leaving a residue or damaging the plug (unless the chisel slips, as it did for me, Double D-oh!). If it slips, fix the blemish with some spot putty, sand smooth, and locally re-prime.
Regards,
Jim
I had bought a stab from the factory to use as a plug. It was a custom order in that the elevator had not been cut/slotted. The stab was cut into three pieces (left stab, center section, right stab) and then I sanded the mating surfaces at a 10 degree angle using a table sander. The three pieces were glued together to give 20 degrees of anhedral to each half of the stab. The joints were then puttied and sanded, and the entire plug was and wet sanded smooth. This completed the "plug".
Next I went down to Lowes and bought a 2'x4' section of whiteboard (about $10) and a hot glue gun. I cut a few strips of whiteboard about 2-1/2" wide to use as the mold parting plane. These were hot glued to the edges of the plug such that the white surface was on the seam. I find it is easiest to build up "globs" of hot glue on the back (non-white) surface of the whiteboard.
I never manage to get the joints to be a perfect fit, so a bit of sanding is done to blend the joints.
You can see in the photo that there are some small gaps between the edge of the whiteboard and the edge of the stab. This is typical at curved areas such as the wingtips or, as per the photo above, at the transition to the center section. These gaps are filled in with children's molding clay (available from an arts and craft store such as Michael's). Kneed the clay to warm/soften it and then roll it into a long roll then lay it along the joint between the wood and the plug. Push the clay into the gap then use a small putty knife or spatula to cut away the excess.
Next, apply some silicon pads to the parting plane to serve as locating "pins". Use clear parcel tape to tape over any areas of the parting plane that you sanded (I forgot to do this, D-oh!) to seal the sanded surface. Then spray the plug and parting plane with mold release (which gives it a blue/green shade).
Next, cut the fiberglass cloth. I cut the cloth to cover one half of the plug (with enough to overlap a couple of inches at the center). I cut enough for one layer of 3/4 oz, two layers of 4 oz, and 5 layers of 10 oz (total about 60 oz stack-up). A roller cutter (available from a sewing store like Joanne's Fabrics) makes the job a lot faster. You can also use a cutting mat (to prevent dulling the blade), but I cut on a plastic topped table which seems to do a good job preserving the blade and I don't have to fuss with putting the cloth on a cutting mat.
Next, mix up some resin and micro-balloons to form a slurry. Use enough micro-balloons that the mixture is thick enough so that it doesn't run (like the icing for a cake). Use paper to make a pastry bag (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdrgGGR4txc) and fill it with the slurry. Squeeze a bead of the slurry around the outside of the stab and around the silicon bumpers. The slurry is used to fill in these areas otherwise you will tend to get voids in the mold as the glass cloth will not get into the corners. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture.
Next lay the 3/4 oz glass cloth over the plug/parting plane and use a disposable 1" paint brush to brush on the resin. You want to completely saturate the cloth over the plug and over the parting plane. Be gentle to not pull the cloth away from the transition between the plug and the whiteboard. The photo below was taken after the 3/4 oz layer was applied and I have just laid the first piece of 4oz on top of the left side. You can just see the white slurry around the stab & bumpers around the right side of the stab.
I use West Systems resin/hardener with the pump fittings. This lets me quickly mix up a little bit of resin at a time (4 pumps of each). If I mixed any more, it would start to cure in the cup (it was about 90 degrees in my garage in Phoenix when I laid up the mold). Mix a bit, apply the cloth, mix a bit more, etc. Once all the layers are applied, let it cure overnight.
Next, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to trim the edges of the cloth even with the parting plane.
Next, flip the stab over and CAREFULLY use a chisel to cut away the beads of hot glue. The glue should pull away from the plug without leaving a residue or damaging the plug (unless the chisel slips, as it did for me, Double D-oh!). If it slips, fix the blemish with some spot putty, sand smooth, and locally re-prime.
Regards,
Jim
Last edited by rcjets_63; 05-30-2016 at 12:26 PM.
05-31-2016, 07:10 PM
#1111
Finishing off the stab mold. Once the resin cured for the bottom half of the mold, I simply trimmed the excess material around the periphery. Holes are then drilled around the flange to enable the halves to be accurately bolted together later. Then, the best part....opening the mold....it's like Christmas morning :-) Carefully slide a putty knife along the split line between the mold halves. Work all around the periphery and then flex the putty knife carefully to distort the mold slightly to release the mold from the part. This can take some patience so you don't damage the mold or the plug.
Once one side pops free, gently distort the other side of the mold and pull the part free. You can also inject some compressed air between the mold and the part to help it release. Once the part pops out, clean the mold with water to dissolve the mold release you sprayed on earlier. Inspect the mold for any issues, bubbles, etc. You should easily be able to see any panel or scribe lines on the part have been captured in the mold. Bolt the halves together for safekeeping and to prevent distortion.
Regards,
Jim
Once one side pops free, gently distort the other side of the mold and pull the part free. You can also inject some compressed air between the mold and the part to help it release. Once the part pops out, clean the mold with water to dissolve the mold release you sprayed on earlier. Inspect the mold for any issues, bubbles, etc. You should easily be able to see any panel or scribe lines on the part have been captured in the mold. Bolt the halves together for safekeeping and to prevent distortion.
Regards,
Jim
06-01-2016, 08:56 AM
#1112
Jim - other than my love for the F-4 and inspiration by you as being identified as one who was building an anhedral tail, I may not have decided to bash the perfect kit that Bruce designed. View the (Reaction 54 Jet Kit - build thread under JETS here on RCU, to see how I built the wood vs fiberglass tail feathers). Build is covered on the following pages/posts: Pg 136 - Post 2288 -91. Pg 139 - Post 3462, and finally, Pg 141 - Post 3505. All parts have been primed, now sanding the wings/fuse. Painting is close. Your workmanship is skillful. Enjoyed the write-up. Will be useful for a future project. Thanks. Chic
Last edited by redtail; 06-01-2016 at 11:36 AM.
06-13-2016, 09:41 AM
#1114
Thanks for the comments. I will probably do a new thread for molding my B-58 Hustler, but this is just a minor effort to document the anheadral H-stab.
Now that the upper an lower molds are done, it's time to actually start laying up the real (flying) parts. The molds are first sprayed with a thin and a thicker coat of mold release and allowed to dry. Next, a mixture of resin and micro-balloons is added to the tight corners in the mold.
A layer of thin (3/4oz to 2 oz) glass cloth is next laid in the mold and worked into the corners using a resin-filled paint brush to eliminate air bubbles. A second layer of cloth (4 oz) is added and then I put on a layer of carbon fiber to reinforce the center section where the spars will be installed.
A layer of peel-ply (yellow) and breather cloth (white) is added over the layup. I use ripstop nylon purchased from Joanne's Fabrics as a peel ply; it cost about $5.99 per running yard (2 sq yards) and there is usually a coupon in the Sunday paper for 20% off any item. The purpose of the peel ply is to soak up excess resin and allow the gloss hard surface of the cured epoxy to form on top of the ply. After the epoxy has cured, the ply is manually peeled away leaving a remaining surface that requires little/no sanding before the next step. The breather cloth allows air to be pulled away from all regions of the part during the vacuuming.
A few strips of flash tape are added to hold everything roughly in place while the mold is inserted into a vacuum bag. I used a 24" wide "infinite tube" bag cut to length (about 30" long) which only requires the ends to be sealed. The vacuum fitting is added to the bag (over a few layers of breather cloth) and the end of the bag is then sealed.
Applying the vacuum pulls everything down against the mold. The layups for the upper and lower skins are shown in the pics below.
Next is the fun part....After the resin has fully cured, GENTLEY peel away the peel ply. Some resin may have soaked into the breather cloth so the peeling may take some force. A bit of local sanding may be required where there were creases in the peel ply.
The next step is to cut out the core material which will be added to the upper an lower skins. Typically I'd use .060" thick foam but I had some extra .090" thick sheets for the B-58 project. The core is cut to shape so that it fits inside the mold (comes about 1/4" inside the periphery of the mold. The three slots in the center are for the spar reinforcements (to be added later) while the cutouts around the elevators are for the balsa frames to be added around the elevators.
Regards,
Jim
Now that the upper an lower molds are done, it's time to actually start laying up the real (flying) parts. The molds are first sprayed with a thin and a thicker coat of mold release and allowed to dry. Next, a mixture of resin and micro-balloons is added to the tight corners in the mold.
A layer of thin (3/4oz to 2 oz) glass cloth is next laid in the mold and worked into the corners using a resin-filled paint brush to eliminate air bubbles. A second layer of cloth (4 oz) is added and then I put on a layer of carbon fiber to reinforce the center section where the spars will be installed.
A layer of peel-ply (yellow) and breather cloth (white) is added over the layup. I use ripstop nylon purchased from Joanne's Fabrics as a peel ply; it cost about $5.99 per running yard (2 sq yards) and there is usually a coupon in the Sunday paper for 20% off any item. The purpose of the peel ply is to soak up excess resin and allow the gloss hard surface of the cured epoxy to form on top of the ply. After the epoxy has cured, the ply is manually peeled away leaving a remaining surface that requires little/no sanding before the next step. The breather cloth allows air to be pulled away from all regions of the part during the vacuuming.
A few strips of flash tape are added to hold everything roughly in place while the mold is inserted into a vacuum bag. I used a 24" wide "infinite tube" bag cut to length (about 30" long) which only requires the ends to be sealed. The vacuum fitting is added to the bag (over a few layers of breather cloth) and the end of the bag is then sealed.
Applying the vacuum pulls everything down against the mold. The layups for the upper and lower skins are shown in the pics below.
Next is the fun part....After the resin has fully cured, GENTLEY peel away the peel ply. Some resin may have soaked into the breather cloth so the peeling may take some force. A bit of local sanding may be required where there were creases in the peel ply.
The next step is to cut out the core material which will be added to the upper an lower skins. Typically I'd use .060" thick foam but I had some extra .090" thick sheets for the B-58 project. The core is cut to shape so that it fits inside the mold (comes about 1/4" inside the periphery of the mold. The three slots in the center are for the spar reinforcements (to be added later) while the cutouts around the elevators are for the balsa frames to be added around the elevators.
Regards,
Jim
08-15-2016, 09:09 PM
#1119
My Feedback: (10)
My short nose is almost ready to maiden, just have to finish canopy/cockpit. My total weight with empty fuel tank (except UAT is full) is 28 pounds. I'm curious what others weigh and I don't want go back through all the posts again, so please let me know what your R weighs. I've seen 26 and 31 lbs. so far, so if those are typical then it looks like I'm in the middle.
Bob
Here's a couple of pics of fuse outside and inside:
Bob
Here's a couple of pics of fuse outside and inside:
09-20-2016, 03:22 AM
#1125
Looks great, Harvey! Can you tell me where a young man would buy one of these? I got mine from Bruce Thorpe Engineering and believe they aren't a US distributor any longer.
Love mine!
Love mine!
Last edited by Bryan McLarty; 09-20-2016 at 03:25 AM.