Skymaster plus 1:5.5 BAE Hawk
#477
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Airraptor
I ran a single Hitec 7955tg on my Hawk, saves a little weight and had no issues with using 1 see image for setup. As ticketec said Hysol is the best but west systems will do also. My hinge line also cracked the paint a common thing with this plane. Hope this helps, if you need anymore advice drop me a pm
Wichet
I ran a single Hitec 7955tg on my Hawk, saves a little weight and had no issues with using 1 see image for setup. As ticketec said Hysol is the best but west systems will do also. My hinge line also cracked the paint a common thing with this plane. Hope this helps, if you need anymore advice drop me a pm
Wichet
#478
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Thanks. I heard the 55's have some weird centering and movement issues. I had planned to run 7940s on ailerons, a 7945 on rudder and a 7950 on the elevator. I was talked out of them since i am running a spectrum radio. specktrum and those hitecs dont center well. I ordered the 83T for elevator and 8411s for the ailerons. will use 7950s for the flaps, 7945 for rudder and a 7940 for nose steering.
I will run jet tronics valves for brakes and gear. I want to set up the inner gear doors to close when the gear is down so I need to figure that out. May have to have a seprate channel mixed in to open and close. Right now i am running the DX 18QQ so that wont be a problem.
anyone else have the inner gear doors closed with the gear down?
I will run jet tronics valves for brakes and gear. I want to set up the inner gear doors to close when the gear is down so I need to figure that out. May have to have a seprate channel mixed in to open and close. Right now i am running the DX 18QQ so that wont be a problem.
anyone else have the inner gear doors closed with the gear down?
#479
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The servos you are choosing are no problem, I run spectrum and have had zero issues with it and also run 7955 in every other jet/petrol I own, use a Jet Tronics door sequencer with another valve for the main gear door to go back up after retracts are down. I have my doors go back up as I was a bit worried of them catching the ground, I use a AirPower Five Action Super Multi-function Valve - EVO / SP EVSD-5U-EVO-SP with an extra valve.
Wichet
Wichet
#480
My Feedback: (66)
ok I see. I those hitec servos I have I have never had a problem but the guy said they need to center well for the stab.
I am worried to about the inner gear doors. so i will have them up also.
The speed brake is another concern too as it is to low and might hit the ground if left down. do you use yours?
I am worried to about the inner gear doors. so i will have them up also.
The speed brake is another concern too as it is to low and might hit the ground if left down. do you use yours?
#481
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Never used it, only thing I would do is add a bit of crow braking for landing, also never pull to hard it a slow turn as it can tuck under on you, never happened to me but have seen it happen.
#482
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As per the full size you can't land with the speed brake extended, as it will hit the ground.
Mine also has a EVSD-5U-EVO-SP fitted, although I believe you can't buy them anymore??
Thanks
dave
Mine also has a EVSD-5U-EVO-SP fitted, although I believe you can't buy them anymore??
Thanks
dave
#484
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them for AirPower burned down and all the tooling, etc was lost and that currently there were no plans to resurrect the product. Also, the parts that fail most
often are no longer available and there is no viable substitute, so they generally can't be repaired either.
Still, I really liked the unit and wish someone would offer something similar..
#486
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She arrived!
My my custom shipping crate did a great job of protecting all the bits so there is no damage to it from what I've looked at.
I just quickly assembled it for the pics but can't play with it just yet. Flying out to Europe in a few days time for our 10 year wedding anniversary holiday. First stop, Jet Munts facility in Barcelona!! 😄. Hopefully Gaspar will let me take some pictures for you guys!
thanks
dave
My my custom shipping crate did a great job of protecting all the bits so there is no damage to it from what I've looked at.
I just quickly assembled it for the pics but can't play with it just yet. Flying out to Europe in a few days time for our 10 year wedding anniversary holiday. First stop, Jet Munts facility in Barcelona!! 😄. Hopefully Gaspar will let me take some pictures for you guys!
thanks
dave
#487
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Just left Barcelona were I got to go to the JetMunts facility and meet Gaspar in person, while picking up my new M140XBL!!!
Gaspar was was an awesome host and gentleman! Took me though a no holes barred tour of the facility and how they do things. Got to fondle the prototypes of all the new toys they are working on and see where and how they produce all their products. I also got to see my turbine being tested prior to delivery as it had been updated with the latest software update. It was so refreshing to talk with such an extremely knowledgeable guy, who was just as excited as I was about modeling and turbines. A customer for life he has earned himself!!!
Home in 2 weeks from the rest of our vacation when I can see how this puppy lookes installed in the hawk!
thanks
dave
Gaspar was was an awesome host and gentleman! Took me though a no holes barred tour of the facility and how they do things. Got to fondle the prototypes of all the new toys they are working on and see where and how they produce all their products. I also got to see my turbine being tested prior to delivery as it had been updated with the latest software update. It was so refreshing to talk with such an extremely knowledgeable guy, who was just as excited as I was about modeling and turbines. A customer for life he has earned himself!!!
Home in 2 weeks from the rest of our vacation when I can see how this puppy lookes installed in the hawk!
thanks
dave
#488
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Well we're back home and I've got another week off from work so I've dived straight into the hawk.
id lost my modelling mojo towards the end of last year start of this one but I'm back on the bandwagon and loving playing with the hawk finally.
As the hawk was purchased second hand, I had decided that I would fully strip, inspect and reassemble everything on the model that was practical. I started on the L/H wing.
A problem/area of concern was the flaps. I noticed when I was buying the model that there was quite a lot of play in the flaps with the servo powered. When I looked into the setup. I saw that from the faired position to fully deployed flap was less than 5mm of servo travel. The flap would also sag when not powered. First problem I spoted was that when he was epoxied the horn to the flap he had sunk it too far down into the flap, so very little moment arm on the flight control and so very little movement required for full deflection. The second problem was that in order to clear the lower wing skin the way the servos are positioned the guy had used over 1.5" of servo arm extension which definitely didn't help the situation.
I made a new control horn out of carbon sheet and hysol'd it to the original horn. This doubled the distance from the hinge point to the attachment point. Then using some old thread rod I experimented with being able to use a smaller servo arm to use more servo travel, and therefore increase the resolution, and to get significantly more mechanical advantage. The picture shows what I ended up with. Now using about 3-4 times more servo movement which is still not a lot (about 45 degrees) but much much better than the previous setup.
I am am using these pushrods from secraft that I picked up from the big aerobat specialist hobby shop (DA Australia actually) and are turnbuckle styled so you can do some very minor adjustments of them, and the look just like full sized pushrods! i also used them on the ailerons and had to replace the aileron servo arms because instead of drilling and tapping the arm for the 4-40 bolts, ole mate just drilled them out oversized. Slop central!
thanks
dave
id lost my modelling mojo towards the end of last year start of this one but I'm back on the bandwagon and loving playing with the hawk finally.
As the hawk was purchased second hand, I had decided that I would fully strip, inspect and reassemble everything on the model that was practical. I started on the L/H wing.
A problem/area of concern was the flaps. I noticed when I was buying the model that there was quite a lot of play in the flaps with the servo powered. When I looked into the setup. I saw that from the faired position to fully deployed flap was less than 5mm of servo travel. The flap would also sag when not powered. First problem I spoted was that when he was epoxied the horn to the flap he had sunk it too far down into the flap, so very little moment arm on the flight control and so very little movement required for full deflection. The second problem was that in order to clear the lower wing skin the way the servos are positioned the guy had used over 1.5" of servo arm extension which definitely didn't help the situation.
I made a new control horn out of carbon sheet and hysol'd it to the original horn. This doubled the distance from the hinge point to the attachment point. Then using some old thread rod I experimented with being able to use a smaller servo arm to use more servo travel, and therefore increase the resolution, and to get significantly more mechanical advantage. The picture shows what I ended up with. Now using about 3-4 times more servo movement which is still not a lot (about 45 degrees) but much much better than the previous setup.
I am am using these pushrods from secraft that I picked up from the big aerobat specialist hobby shop (DA Australia actually) and are turnbuckle styled so you can do some very minor adjustments of them, and the look just like full sized pushrods! i also used them on the ailerons and had to replace the aileron servo arms because instead of drilling and tapping the arm for the 4-40 bolts, ole mate just drilled them out oversized. Slop central!
thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 02-19-2015 at 06:43 AM.
#489
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While I was pulling everything out of the wing I also gave the landing gear some attention.
the retract units are from airpower and these, like all my other units from them are not loctited from factory and so in very short order the main pivot pin bolts start to vibrate lose and cause the trunnion to feel sloppy. I pulled it all apart, cleaned everything and loctited it all back together. All good to go again. one thing I did find was the cylinders felt pretty sluggish to manually operate. And they seemed to spew out a silicone based gel out of the retract port. I've never seen this on airpower retracts before so I assumed that it must have been 'ole mates grand idea again so pumped out as much of it as I could.
i also wanted to paint the gear and wheel while it was out so I pulled the wheel off the leg and then pulled the wheel apart as well so I could clean, mask off, and paint all the bits. The grey came out a little darker than I wanted but it will do fine.
The gear has been reinstalled into the wing, the servo leads were shortened and a new connector re-crimped onto the end of the wires and some servo labels stuck onto each lead so the wing is all ready to go for final setup with the radio.
i started with the right had wing half, but snapped one of my new fan dangled pushrods so now have to make another 45min each way trek to the shop to buy a replacement. Most of the remedial work I did on the l/h have been already completed on the r/h side but I haven't installed the gear back in yet because it seems like the fwd gear rail might be cracked. Only noticed it after I painted the wheel well. Not going to take any chances so tomorrow I'll hysol in a doubler under the rail.
thanks
dave
the retract units are from airpower and these, like all my other units from them are not loctited from factory and so in very short order the main pivot pin bolts start to vibrate lose and cause the trunnion to feel sloppy. I pulled it all apart, cleaned everything and loctited it all back together. All good to go again. one thing I did find was the cylinders felt pretty sluggish to manually operate. And they seemed to spew out a silicone based gel out of the retract port. I've never seen this on airpower retracts before so I assumed that it must have been 'ole mates grand idea again so pumped out as much of it as I could.
i also wanted to paint the gear and wheel while it was out so I pulled the wheel off the leg and then pulled the wheel apart as well so I could clean, mask off, and paint all the bits. The grey came out a little darker than I wanted but it will do fine.
The gear has been reinstalled into the wing, the servo leads were shortened and a new connector re-crimped onto the end of the wires and some servo labels stuck onto each lead so the wing is all ready to go for final setup with the radio.
i started with the right had wing half, but snapped one of my new fan dangled pushrods so now have to make another 45min each way trek to the shop to buy a replacement. Most of the remedial work I did on the l/h have been already completed on the r/h side but I haven't installed the gear back in yet because it seems like the fwd gear rail might be cracked. Only noticed it after I painted the wheel well. Not going to take any chances so tomorrow I'll hysol in a doubler under the rail.
thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 02-19-2015 at 06:46 AM.
#491
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I tried to go to the hobby shop today but with the pre-cyclone weather that we have at the moment there was road closures everywhere with localised flooding so it was a no go. Tomorrow the downgraded cyclone should hit here....
So amongst getting ready for the storm and helping out a mate do the same, I only managed to get some work done on the the back end of the jet. The JR8511 servo originally had a plastic horn fitted for the rudder so I replaced that with a SWB item. Because the slot was cut for a taller arm, I had to pack up the servo about 1mm to get it to line up with the slot. Otherwise I would have ended up with a massively sized hole in the side of the fin! The ply packers were glued to the fuse and the servo screwed back down. The fin was screwed into place and the new control rod installed. The angles ole mate glued the horns on is not ideal, but its less carnage leaving them like that than cutting them off.
Not getting a whole heap of travel out of the rudder in one direction because it bottoming out, but I'll check to see the required throws and go from there later.
thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 02-20-2015 at 06:27 PM.
#492
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The next area to be tackled was the elevator servos.
the servo plate was removed, A pair of hitec 7955TG's in there are a good thing. I also like that he joined up the elevator horns to make a stronger setup. Some new pushrods and ball ends and it's all ready to go.
one thing with the horns the way they are setup, is that ole mate had no washers on the singular bolt and the bolt was not in safety, I.e there should be a min of 1.5-2 threads showing past the end of the nut. I found a replacement bolt in the spares bin, and fitted a couple of washers. This master plan was great and worked perfectly, until I fitted the top cover. The bolt and nut rub on the sides of the cover at large downwards defections. So removing one of the washers and trimming down the bolt to flush with the end of the net had made it a lot better, but I won't comfortably get more than 30mm downwards travel, that should be enough regardless.
So now that the back end of the jet sorted, it time to move onto sorting out of the servo cables and air lines.
thanks
dave
the servo plate was removed, A pair of hitec 7955TG's in there are a good thing. I also like that he joined up the elevator horns to make a stronger setup. Some new pushrods and ball ends and it's all ready to go.
one thing with the horns the way they are setup, is that ole mate had no washers on the singular bolt and the bolt was not in safety, I.e there should be a min of 1.5-2 threads showing past the end of the nut. I found a replacement bolt in the spares bin, and fitted a couple of washers. This master plan was great and worked perfectly, until I fitted the top cover. The bolt and nut rub on the sides of the cover at large downwards defections. So removing one of the washers and trimming down the bolt to flush with the end of the net had made it a lot better, but I won't comfortably get more than 30mm downwards travel, that should be enough regardless.
So now that the back end of the jet sorted, it time to move onto sorting out of the servo cables and air lines.
thanks
dave
#493
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Today I started cleaning up the wiring in the Hawk.
I started by removing the forward fuse section from the aft to make it a little more manageable to work on it. I put safety clips on all the connections and also labeled everything so if I need to trouble shoot something It will be a lot easier to deal with. All that is left now is to apply some aluminium tape over the wiring to protect it from heat should the unthinkable happen .
I also manufactured a ply doubler for the questionable landing gear bearer and have hysol'd that into place. If I get some time tomorrow I will clean it up, re-drill the new bearing to accept the screws and attach the landing gear to the wing.
The next job is to start to tackle the nose section wiring and plumbing. a big cleanup job is required there as well as to start to plan where the powerbox will go... need to buy that first.
Thanks
dave
I started by removing the forward fuse section from the aft to make it a little more manageable to work on it. I put safety clips on all the connections and also labeled everything so if I need to trouble shoot something It will be a lot easier to deal with. All that is left now is to apply some aluminium tape over the wiring to protect it from heat should the unthinkable happen .
I also manufactured a ply doubler for the questionable landing gear bearer and have hysol'd that into place. If I get some time tomorrow I will clean it up, re-drill the new bearing to accept the screws and attach the landing gear to the wing.
The next job is to start to tackle the nose section wiring and plumbing. a big cleanup job is required there as well as to start to plan where the powerbox will go... need to buy that first.
Thanks
dave
#494
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Hey Guy's
I have been doing a little more work on the Hawk and noticing more and more details that are missing from this model.
One of the the big ones are the Smurf's. They are the fin's that sit in front of and slightly below the horizontal stab. I made them for my foamie hawk using the 'ole Mk I eyeball and some 3-views, but I wanted to be a little more accurate on the SM hawk. Seeing as I could find no decent dimensions or 3-views anywhere on the net I thought the next best hope would be to take some pic's for my self. getting access to a Hawk is no easy thing, until I realised that the Avalon Airshow which is the biggest airshow in Australia was on this weekend!! The RAAF always have a couple there..
So I called a modelling buddy of mine on the monday and called my parents that live not to far from there and next thing you know, were on a 737 flying down to Melbourne ready to attend on the Friday!! As you can see in the included pic's, the RAAF was more than accommodating and I used one of there free giveaway rules to ensure I have actual dimensions to work from!! Awesome!
Got a whole heap of pic's around the Hawk and in the cockpit. All in hi-res, so I can now really add some of the major details that are missing, like both wing fences, all the VG's, the smurf's and also the wingtip formation light fences as well.
Just got back home, so will go throught all the pic's I have and see what I ended up with.
Thanks
Dave
I have been doing a little more work on the Hawk and noticing more and more details that are missing from this model.
One of the the big ones are the Smurf's. They are the fin's that sit in front of and slightly below the horizontal stab. I made them for my foamie hawk using the 'ole Mk I eyeball and some 3-views, but I wanted to be a little more accurate on the SM hawk. Seeing as I could find no decent dimensions or 3-views anywhere on the net I thought the next best hope would be to take some pic's for my self. getting access to a Hawk is no easy thing, until I realised that the Avalon Airshow which is the biggest airshow in Australia was on this weekend!! The RAAF always have a couple there..
So I called a modelling buddy of mine on the monday and called my parents that live not to far from there and next thing you know, were on a 737 flying down to Melbourne ready to attend on the Friday!! As you can see in the included pic's, the RAAF was more than accommodating and I used one of there free giveaway rules to ensure I have actual dimensions to work from!! Awesome!
Got a whole heap of pic's around the Hawk and in the cockpit. All in hi-res, so I can now really add some of the major details that are missing, like both wing fences, all the VG's, the smurf's and also the wingtip formation light fences as well.
Just got back home, so will go throught all the pic's I have and see what I ended up with.
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by ticketec; 02-27-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#495
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Finally finished with the air lines and their tidy up. I also now have the valve end labeled. Will do the same at the wing disconnects so that it's easier to fault find later if required.
thanks
dave
thanks
dave
#496
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Have now got 6 flights on my SM Xtreme Hawk. What a great solid flier, especially with the Cortex gyro.
The first 2 flights were flown with a clean wing and resulted in major wing drops, but I then added the fences and VG's, plus added a little crow with the last 1/4 of full back stick. It has tamed the wing drop considerably and it is now very docile.
I added Unilights strobe and landing lights, scratch built a couple of the more prominent antennas and a pitot probe from Alan (Fiireblade5437). It really makes it stand out. I'm now waiting on some stencil decals from Tailormade.
I've used the settings from the manual, but then added crow with landing flap and almost double the landing flap deflection, probably close to 50mm compared to the suggested 30mm. It lands great. I had to replace the landing gear plywood mounts after the first couple of flights as they were extremely weak and they crumbled apart. They were easy to cut out and I used better quality plywood.
Paul
The first 2 flights were flown with a clean wing and resulted in major wing drops, but I then added the fences and VG's, plus added a little crow with the last 1/4 of full back stick. It has tamed the wing drop considerably and it is now very docile.
I added Unilights strobe and landing lights, scratch built a couple of the more prominent antennas and a pitot probe from Alan (Fiireblade5437). It really makes it stand out. I'm now waiting on some stencil decals from Tailormade.
I've used the settings from the manual, but then added crow with landing flap and almost double the landing flap deflection, probably close to 50mm compared to the suggested 30mm. It lands great. I had to replace the landing gear plywood mounts after the first couple of flights as they were extremely weak and they crumbled apart. They were easy to cut out and I used better quality plywood.
Paul
#497
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Have now got 6 flights on my SM Xtreme Hawk. What a great solid flier, especially with the Cortex gyro.
The first 2 flights were flown with a clean wing and resulted in major wing drops, but I then added the fences and VG's, plus added a little crow with the last 1/4 of full back stick. It has tamed the wing drop considerably and it is now very docile.
I added Unilights strobe and landing lights, scratch built a couple of the more prominent antennas and a pitot probe from Alan (Fiireblade5437). It really makes it stand out. I'm now waiting on some stencil decals from Tailormade.
I've used the settings from the manual, but then added crow with landing flap and almost double the landing flap deflection, probably close to 50mm compared to the suggested 30mm. It lands great. I had to replace the landing gear plywood mounts after the first couple of flights as they were extremely weak and they crumbled apart. They were easy to cut out and I used better quality plywood.
Paul
The first 2 flights were flown with a clean wing and resulted in major wing drops, but I then added the fences and VG's, plus added a little crow with the last 1/4 of full back stick. It has tamed the wing drop considerably and it is now very docile.
I added Unilights strobe and landing lights, scratch built a couple of the more prominent antennas and a pitot probe from Alan (Fiireblade5437). It really makes it stand out. I'm now waiting on some stencil decals from Tailormade.
I've used the settings from the manual, but then added crow with landing flap and almost double the landing flap deflection, probably close to 50mm compared to the suggested 30mm. It lands great. I had to replace the landing gear plywood mounts after the first couple of flights as they were extremely weak and they crumbled apart. They were easy to cut out and I used better quality plywood.
Paul
Any video of your flights??
Have you noticed with the increased flap any reduction of landing speed?
I'm always a big believer that they don't go putting these things like fences and VG on the full sized because they are bored! The Hawk 100 and the T.1 have quite different configurations when it comes to the wing fences. and I have also noticed variances between the T.1's as well. but most T.1 seem to have 3 wing fences. I hav attached a pic that shows all the fences on the RAAF Mk.127's.
Another thing I had never noticed before till I got up close was the Mk.100 series have a stall strip almost inline with the main landing gear. These are there to induce a stall on the inboard section of wing before the outside stalls and therefore deal with tip stalling issues... would be interesting to test on the model.
Thanks
dave
#498
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Hey JSF,
could you you do me a favour, and post a picture from the back of your hawk with the stab powered and in the neutral position?
Ive read the posts saying -3degrees in relation to the wing, but a visual guide can't hurt either
thanks
dave
could you you do me a favour, and post a picture from the back of your hawk with the stab powered and in the neutral position?
Ive read the posts saying -3degrees in relation to the wing, but a visual guide can't hurt either
thanks
dave
#500
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Hi Dave,
Attached are photos showing the tailplane trimmed position for Flaps Up, Take Off Flap and Landing flap, which I have as 50mm deflected, measured at the I/B end.
From your previous question with the additional flap deflection, I only had 2 flights on the model and I never explored fully slow flight with 30mm flap, so I hadn't really got comfortable with it, but I did notice more drag with 50mm. I'm happy with 50mm deflection.
Paul
Attached are photos showing the tailplane trimmed position for Flaps Up, Take Off Flap and Landing flap, which I have as 50mm deflected, measured at the I/B end.
From your previous question with the additional flap deflection, I only had 2 flights on the model and I never explored fully slow flight with 30mm flap, so I hadn't really got comfortable with it, but I did notice more drag with 50mm. I'm happy with 50mm deflection.
Paul