bigplumbs

I know what you mean but the one supplied will do well to get out of the fin lol.

Dennis

cjshaker

I am curious as to how the canard is programmed, and how it is controlled
in the radio setup. Does the manual cover that?

Thank you,
Chris Shaker

bigplumbs

No the instructions do not cover that but here is how you would do it:

The elevator and Ailerons would have the two servos connected to the elevator and aileron channel and elevon mixing selected. The canard would be on a separate channel with its own servo and will be connected to a spare channel on the receiver. This channel will be mixed in the Tx to the elevator channel as a slave channel. Of course you must remember to reverse the direction of the canard so that it moves in the oporsite direction to the elevator as the canard is at the front. And also reduce the percentage throw of the canard as its travel needs to be less than the elevator

Hope this helps

Dennis

cjshaker

Dennis:

Thank you for the info about the canard. That's what I was imagining.

Was looking at the so called 'Rookie' jet the other day, which has a canard,
and vectored thrust. I imagine the vectored thrust runs the same direction
as the elevator, and is slaved to the elevator?

Chris Shaker

bigplumbs

Well this should help.... She arrived today a shade off £500 so not cheap but those 2 extra channels will be worth it

Dennis

Airforce7

My Feedback: (31)

Chris,

The thrust vectoring travels the same as the elevator on the Rookie II. I put mine on a switch so that you can turn it on/off during flight. The canard travels opposite. This is true for the Rafale as well and Dennis is correct with his canard setup description. I put the canard on a switch with my x-tremejets Rafale, but I usually fly with it active all the time.

Ken

cjshaker

Ken:

Thanks for the info! It's neat to learn about these beasts.

Chris Shaker

bigplumbs

Got a bit distracted and built this will be back on the Raf now

Dennis

jetmodeller

Hi Dennis the first pic is better than the second,did you bring it back from germany what is it and how much Regards Keith

USSCAT

Keith,

Are you talking about the first picture? I thought buying people was illigal in europe

Regards,
Mike

bigplumbs

Its a Discus CS Glider made by CMP Pro marketed under the Jamera brand...... Price in the UK was the same as Germany at about £85.00..... Als hobbies has them

Dennis

bigplumbs

Instructions and Rudder

I have to say that FEJ have really let themselves and the modeller down by not giving instructions. The ones on the website are very poor indeed and I have loads of bags of bits and it is taking me ages to work out what bit does what job..... I think I have found the right bits for the rudder but who knows []. FEJ have changed the way they do the rudder from the original idea of a hatch in the side to a small servo at the bottom with the customer having to dremmel a small cut out for the servo arm.

I also found that with my HS65MG you cant use the rubber gromets because if you did the servo will touch the fuse when the fin is fixed in position. Also the new way means that the push rod doesn't meet the line of the rudder at 90 degrees. I have to say however that given that the travel on the rudder is only 15 mm I dont see this being a problem

You also have to cut the slot in the rudder (a Sharp scapel will do this fine and glue the horns in position.


Here are a couple of pics of my set up before I bend the push rod for the servo horn. I used 12 min epoxy to glue the horn in position

Dennis

bigplumbs

I also found that about 1 mm needs to be filed dremmelled off the bottom of the rudder to stop it binding on the top of the fuse....... This gave me access to the horn I had glued in for the rudder so I took the opportunity of adding a little more epoxy

Dennis

bigplumbs

Well that took quite a bit longer than I thought about 3.5 hours to be precise. I decided to replace the 2 mm rod I had used with some 3 mm threaded rod I had in stock....... I couldn't bear the look on the face of my chief test pilot had I had used the thinner rod.

Here is is finished with the fin bolted in from inside with a little bit of locktight added to the retaining screws.

Dennis

www.densplanes.co.uk

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

Hi Dennis,
You're correct, the instructions or lack of are a dissappointment, but there aren't that many parts on the airplane so figuring out where they all go wasn't a huge issue, some of the parts I used are probably in a different place than they imagined them being, but I'm ok with that, everything ended up fitting in mine! There were only 3 or 4 parts I didn't end up using so I can live with that.

As for the rudder, mine didn't hit the fuse, but I made sure the gap up top was nice and close too, with the tigermeet scheme that may not line up in the paint though, mine is the grey camo version. It also looks like they changed the main spar in the fin to aluminum or steel in yours, mine was carbon, for simplicity I just glued my fin on, there were no provisions for bolting without modification so I figured glue was as good as anything, it's not a big jet anyway.

Jeremy

Jgwright

I have struggled with the Door cylinders. I could get them leak free in the extended position but with them retracted I was getting leaks with any small sideways pressure. I drilled out the mounting hole to minimise the effect but it was still leaking.

In the end I opted to change them for 5/16 Ultra Precision cylinders. They are almost an exact fit but need the ali block drilling out to 3mm very carefully to avoid breaking through the wall. They have a 3mm longer stroke which suits the plane better as it shuts the doors firmly and extends out far enough to clear the wheels when retracted.

I tested by retracting the U/C and leaving it for 30 mins. After 30 mins I could get lower them and get 6 complete cycles. I am happy with the results.

John

USSCAT

John,

One thing that you may want to try is to pack some silicon grease inside the cylider and the shaft area. we have seen that problem on the F-16s and it seems to work.

Regards,
Mike

Jgwright

Mike

I tried that and just could not stop the leak. The O ring is either too soft (wrong spec) or the hole in the O ring is too large. At least with the UP cylinders I am confident about them.

John

bigplumbs

Elevon Servo Mounts

The supplied servo mounts which come dry fitted into the wing sit proud of the wing surface.... Dont worry however as there are supplied very large servo covers which I think double as 'scale' wing pylons.

I glued the servo mounts in with 12 min epoxy (my best friend) and held it in position with my wifes copy of Narnia...... Knew it was usefull for somthing.

The kit comes supplied with nice ali servo mounts and screws to fit them..... You need to dispense with the rubber gromets on the servo to use them however.
You will also find that you need to saw the inside corner off the timber mount so that the servo wire can pass through.

Here are some pics that should help

bigplumbs

Horn glueing

It is obviously important to get the hole (which you have to drill) in the horn over centre of rotation of the elevon and the wing. I was surprised to find that there were no wood blocks in the elevon for glueing the fiberglass horn into. I have once again used 12 min epoxy and feel that this will be very strong as it is glued on 4 edges and all round. I will let it go off for at least an hour before I test the servo on it. Here are a couple of pics of mine glueing up with the large servo cover in the background. I thik I will eventually be fixing these covers with small screws. There are actually some small black ones in the kit which might be for this job.

The supplied control rods are very good indeed with one end having a ball race.

Not getting on very quickly but I intend to take all the time I want lol.

Dennis

PS I can se you are watching Dave [)]

bigplumbs

Servo arm length

Because of the size of the elevons and to keep reasonable resolution on the servo you have to have quite short servo arms on the servo. Here is a pic of my position but with it all being black it is a little difficult to see. Even with this short length I have had to wind the rates on aileron down to 50 and 70 %..... Chief test pilot wont like that but there is very little more I can do

Dennis

bigplumbs

A bit of a distraction turned up today !!!!.....

Still finish the Jet first............................ I think

Dennis

dangiolillo

hi guys, i have started work on my rafale but i am a bit confused on the rudder, i see in the post that jermey glued the rudder on i to would like to do that, but i dont see any access to the servo should it fail and have to be changed any ideas or guidance would help.




thank you
jon

KC36330

your aluminum posts should be drilled and tapped for bolts that secure the fin on from inside the fuselage, i wouldn't advices gluing it with no access to the servo, it's almost guaranteed to fail when you can't get in there to it.

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

My fin had a hatch in the side for the servo and no provisions to bolt the fin onto the airplane. As such I glued it on, I can still access and change my servo anytime I want or need to.