F-86 Skymaster - RC installation??
#427
Hi Zack, I used the stock air pressure system for the main doors. Only the front door I changed to a small servo. I believe it was a 9mm hitec carbon gear servo. The air pressure would not work...
#428
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Hi Spuetz,
Thank you for the reply. I read your post about the front door thats why i am asking. I was thinking of replacing every door with servo but i find it hard to find a place for the main doors next to the turbine.
Regards
Zack
Thank you for the reply. I read your post about the front door thats why i am asking. I was thinking of replacing every door with servo but i find it hard to find a place for the main doors next to the turbine.
Regards
Zack
#429
Hi Zack,
yes, I know, it's all very tight in that fuselage. You could try and use bowden control cables and place the servos elsewhere. I stuck with the pneumatic approach and that had never failed me.
BTW the Servo that I used for the front Door was a Hitec HS 85 MG. That's a 35 Ncm servo mit metal gears.
yes, I know, it's all very tight in that fuselage. You could try and use bowden control cables and place the servos elsewhere. I stuck with the pneumatic approach and that had never failed me.
BTW the Servo that I used for the front Door was a Hitec HS 85 MG. That's a 35 Ncm servo mit metal gears.
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Hi Spuetz,
Thank you for the information about the servo. I think i might have a solution as to where to mount the servos but am not sure yet. I am also thinking about the lado edoor actuators but i read in some other thread that they are powerful and if not set correctly they can brake the gear doors. I am still debating on what to do.
Thank you for the information about the servo. I think i might have a solution as to where to mount the servos but am not sure yet. I am also thinking about the lado edoor actuators but i read in some other thread that they are powerful and if not set correctly they can brake the gear doors. I am still debating on what to do.
#432
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I was thinking of going full electric to save some room inside the fuselage but maybe not just yet. I read you are using powerbox cockpit that has sequenser for the retracts. I have the powerbox competition which does not so i will have to use extra sequenser. The space inside the fuselage is restrictive around the duct so i am thinking where everything should go. If you dont have any problems with the main gear doors i might use the servo only on the front door.
#434
here you see one of the four wooden blocks that the honeycomb carbon mounting plate for the valves and the Powerbox is bolted to. I epoxied them to the tanks, then painted them green for protection (fuel).
#436
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Hello everyone
like to to know if someone can share their CG location. Friend of mine has one of these and according to the manual online it says it should be at 290mm. That just seams too far aft. So I've opted to do some research before we balance his airplane.
This kit is a 1/6.5 scale
thanks in advance
Orlando
like to to know if someone can share their CG location. Friend of mine has one of these and according to the manual online it says it should be at 290mm. That just seams too far aft. So I've opted to do some research before we balance his airplane.
This kit is a 1/6.5 scale
thanks in advance
Orlando
#438
My CG is at 310 and it flies great probably can go back a few more mm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXJ1Izs9bCg
Ed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXJ1Izs9bCg
Ed
#439
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Thanks GRVW and emart.
So I guess the CG goes back that far? It's well behind the carbon fiber wing tube thus falling way past the normal 33% of the wing chord I'm normally used to seeing.
I'll start at 300mm and go from there.
Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.
So I guess the CG goes back that far? It's well behind the carbon fiber wing tube thus falling way past the normal 33% of the wing chord I'm normally used to seeing.
I'll start at 300mm and go from there.
Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.
#440
Hi Orlando,
I had posted this earlier:
Ok once and for all. Here's the best c/g for this airplane, as I have found:
305 mm (12 Inch exactly) behind the leading edge at the wing root.That's with landing gear extended and empty tanks.
That's 15 mm (9/16 Inch) behind the Position that X-Treme Jets (by Skymaster) recommend in the manual!
see how she flies with that c/g in the Video (my post before this)"
310 will work as well, I guess. Too heavy on the nose and it has a nasty habit of tip stalling. Skymaster's indication is criminal! Almost lost it (the model) with that..
As for the 33% that you mention: How are you measuring? Are you calculating the average of the swept wing correctly? If you do you will find that it is about right. However, If you just measure at the wing root and forget to take the sweeping of the wing into account - there's the mistake. In any case, please tell your friend to trust us and put it at 305!
Cheers, Martin
I had posted this earlier:
Ok once and for all. Here's the best c/g for this airplane, as I have found:
305 mm (12 Inch exactly) behind the leading edge at the wing root.That's with landing gear extended and empty tanks.
That's 15 mm (9/16 Inch) behind the Position that X-Treme Jets (by Skymaster) recommend in the manual!
see how she flies with that c/g in the Video (my post before this)"
310 will work as well, I guess. Too heavy on the nose and it has a nasty habit of tip stalling. Skymaster's indication is criminal! Almost lost it (the model) with that..
As for the 33% that you mention: How are you measuring? Are you calculating the average of the swept wing correctly? If you do you will find that it is about right. However, If you just measure at the wing root and forget to take the sweeping of the wing into account - there's the mistake. In any case, please tell your friend to trust us and put it at 305!
Cheers, Martin
#442
hey Charles,
all I can say is what I said with my last post: Get the C/G right. That's the "be all" and - unfortunately for many - "end all" of Sabre jets, independent of size. Some of my club mates fly this bird, and if you get it balanced correctly it allegedly flies as easy as a trainer. Much better so than the 1/6.5 version. If not, you're in for grief.... C/G too far to the front and it just sucks itself to the ground and won't take off, especially on grass. However, what the "sweet spot" for the C/G of that larger bird is I don't know. Search the forums, read the recommendations and look out for what the majority said. That would be my piece of advice.
Otherwise the Skymaster F86 (1/5 scale) is much better quality than the Xtreme jets 1/6.5 version. that's a given...
all I can say is what I said with my last post: Get the C/G right. That's the "be all" and - unfortunately for many - "end all" of Sabre jets, independent of size. Some of my club mates fly this bird, and if you get it balanced correctly it allegedly flies as easy as a trainer. Much better so than the 1/6.5 version. If not, you're in for grief.... C/G too far to the front and it just sucks itself to the ground and won't take off, especially on grass. However, what the "sweet spot" for the C/G of that larger bird is I don't know. Search the forums, read the recommendations and look out for what the majority said. That would be my piece of advice.
Otherwise the Skymaster F86 (1/5 scale) is much better quality than the Xtreme jets 1/6.5 version. that's a given...
#443
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I have just found out from networking from Georgia, USA, Jet meet last weekend that I have an early production bird with only one spar. Do you know anyone who has modified from that to the two spar version?? Whats in the wing is the question, fuselage fairly straight forward.
This has really turned out to be a building project, no almost in this ARF!
Charles
This has really turned out to be a building project, no almost in this ARF!
Charles