kmw1

Xairflyer - Thanks!

That helped a lot...

I have two questions after the reprogramming:

1) I set up my elevator mixing at half flaps for 10% down (is this OK?) - but I originally set it up in the program 2 mixing. Now that I see that Flap Sys can do this for me I think it is cleaner to use flap sys instead....the problem is I can't figure out how to disable or reset program mix #2? How do I do this?

2) The ailerons come in nice and slow at full flaps - I set to -35% for the first flights (is this enough) - The only issue is I can't seem to find how to set the left aileron to deflect up (instead of oppose to the right for normal flight control). In other words if I enable full flaps the plane will go into a spin Must be simple but can't find the function to change direction of L aileron for flaps only...

Oh ya, and elevator deflection is set 0% at full flap??

Thanks again - this helped a lot!

Kurt

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

(1)Depends what you want the first stage/half flap setting to do, is it a takeoff flap or a reduced flap say for days with stronger winds where full flap is just too slow.
I use first stage for takeoff in short strips, about 15deg is about right, the figure 10% will vary depending on your linkage setup, long arm short arm etc.

To clear/deactivate any of the six mixes, when in the mix scroll to the start channel you are mixing e.g. if your mix is RUDD - AUX3 scroll to RUDD and press the CLR button, the mix is now turned off.

(2)Again 35% will depend on other factors, set the ailerons about 5-10mm up for first flights.
Both ailerons should go up if you followed the programing I gave you before. - Maybe the mix you added is causing problems, you must make sure there are no other mixes active, other than the FLAP - FPRN mix

kmw1

OK - Let me clarify....

I was only intending to use flaps for landing so right now they are set for 50% (30 degress down) deflection at half with 5 degrees down elevator and at 100% (60 degrees down) at full with no elevator down. Maybe I'm using the 1/2 flap setting wrong and should use for take-off and not landing setting as you stated and only use full flap for landing?

I found my problem on the direction issue - I was on the same channel. I'm using a Smartfly Super Reg and it only has 8 channels out on it.
1 - Throttle
2 - (2) ailerons
3 - Elevator
4 - (2) Rudders
5 - Gear
6 - Flaps
7 - Nose Stearing
8 - Breaks

So I unplugged the L aileron from the Smart-fly channel 2-B and plugged directly into the AUX 2 of the JR receiver and its works just like you said....do yo think this could be a potenial problem bypassing the Smart-fly when all other servos are plugged into it?

Other than clarification on flap use and bypassing the Smart-fly I should be good! Please advise as you have been a great help!

Thanks - Kurt

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

How you use the flap is up to you, some like first stage to be takeoff others a half flap that is put on first during downwind then full flap on approach.

You will need down elevator for full flap more so than half flap.

Dont have any experience with the smart fly box you are talking about, why have you fitted it?
You could set your nosewheel steering up mechanically and Y lead it to the rudders if you need another channel.

Greg2102

About a month ago I got the Sprint too slow on final about a foot in the air and it stalled. Bent the nose gear, ripped out the right main gear and pulled out two flap hinges. Amazingly not much damage. After a month of repairs the airplane flew twice yesterday.

To help preclude another stall I put an Eagle Tree Pro telemetry system on the jet with a pitot tube on the side of the fuselage. Took the plane about four mistakes high and did a series of gear up and flap up stalls. Stall speed with a full tank (1 gallon) of fuel turned out to be about 35 miles per hour. For approach I had someone stand beside me and read the airspeed off the handheld telemetry unit. Made for a very nice comfortable approach and landing. Actually touched down a 33 mph, so I have to do some full flap stalls to see what speed it stalls at. Didn't think to do the full flap tests.

BaldEagel

Try all that again with some reflex on the ailerons and see if it helps, would be interesting to know, to my perception it delays the onset of the stall, would be nice to put some figures on it.

Mike

Louiedajew1138

Could anyone post a link to the recommended electric retract set? I assume brakes are still pnuematic?

Lou

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Hello,

It took a few days but I read the entire thread [X(] Thanks to all who posted lots of good info and answered most of my questions.

One thing that wasn't discussed much if at all is the wing incidence with the plane on it's gear. My plane and gear have not arrived yet but it looks like it's zero from the numerous photos but one of the later posts suggested negative incidence. Also I read where the incidence of the Horizontal stab may need to be changed is it also zero and how many of you adjusted it. I know the short answer is see how it fly's first

Using a P70 in mine and will post photo's when done.

Thanks,

Pete

lxfly

Hi Pete,
Have the stock gear from Jet-1A mounted on the support without changing anything, Changed a little bit the incidence by underlaying the front of the horizontal stab on the fins (~0,7mm) after some test flights. Mine is powered by a P100RX, so all values may change with the turbine used. I think that the Sprint should fly out of the box, just adapt to your preferences later on.

Scott Purdy

I am working on a boomerang elan at the moment and none of the tubes fit as the paint in inside the tube, once I sanded out all the paint all the tubes are a nice snug fit but not impossible to put in or remove. Sand all the paint out of the tubes and it will fit well.

Len Todd

Finally, ... I had to read 40+ pages to get to this. Whew! It appears to me that the axle hole is drilled from the wrong side of the strut. Or, ... if the axle hole was drilled all the way through the strut, then you could put the axle in from the other direction and swap the brake over to the other side of the strut. Then move the strut/brake components over to the other side of the plane. Then, the machined surfaces on the strut would mate with the machined surface on the brake. If you did not previously already cut the axles to fit the blind hole, the remaining hole would be plugged by the extra axle length. Unfortunately, I already cut my axles. I also have been waiting for an answer from Dreamworks on this problem for several days. I am not so pleased with this as it was discovered and discussed in 2009 but not corrected for 2013. What seems worse is, ... to find the info you have to wade through this thread and it's chit-chat for a couple days. Maybe it is time for a new build thread on this plane to better condense the building information. ? A search did not even lessen the pain in getting here.

BaldEagel

Nicely volunteered Len, when will you start the new thread, keep us informed.

Mike

rcpete347

My Feedback: (251)

HI, just finished my 5th Sprint, this one is for sale, need to fund my F-104.
The Sprint does not need any nose weight, as I built everything forward, 3 batteries in the nose and turbine slightly forward, also have about 3/16'' downthrust in the turbine.
The Sprint does not need Flaps for take off and does not need crow, their simply is not another jet as easy to fly.
Rcpete

memejfd

Hello,
I am building my Sprint. I have a Wren100. In order to balance the sprint without adding weight, I need to install the turbine the most forward possible. This means the output of the turbin (cone) is very much inside the fuselage (say 8cm / 3inches from the rear edge). I did paint the rear part with ceramic paint but i am not too sure if such distance is an issue or not.
Thanks a lot for your help and advice.

BaldEagel

See page 71 Post 1753, still required some weight in the nose.

Mike

lxfly

Yes,no problem, as Mike answered, I saw this installation in some Sprints working perfectly.

Si_B

Could someone please confirm that the Boomerangs are covered in Pro film or Oracover. I just discovered my new Sprint has taken a knock under the centre wing (no idea how it happened) which has damaged the wing skin. I don't think I can resolve it without remving the covering, but I want to match the silver after the repair. I'm really gutted, I bought this to replace my Intro which looks well used, so you can imagine how I felt when I saw the damage. Not even flown it yet.

Cheers,
Simon

chris1971

Yes, oracover is what they use. I got that straight from Patricia at boomerang jets.

chris1971

I now have 180 flights on my Sprint. I have ripped out the gear so many times that i have lost count. But the repairs are easy and it just keeps on ticking! Hard to go wrong with this jet!

davo580

should pin the hinges for safety. I used tooth picks then trim them off

Downwind3Zero

My Feedback: (10)

Hi, could someone measure the length of a single wing for me? I am looking for appropriate wing bags.
Thanks, CHris

Len Todd

26.5 " x 16"

Downwind3Zero

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Len, much appreciated!

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Complete electric combo - http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ar-Combo-Basic or http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...Gear-Combo-Pro

Bravo77

http://youtu.be/sltcHARIOEI

Look at the landing and see if it can help, also look at the high speed pass at around 1.27. The sprint is a great airplane and very easy to land . I do not use any flaps on landing or take off , my other jet is an Ultra flash and I use flaps on it cause it is needed .

Thx
good luck