Pete737

Man that thing is sweet! I was gonna go with the small Skymaster F4 in that scheme untill I decided on a hornet. All your jets come out so pristine, I can't wait to see what you do with this one!

Any chance of bringing it to a New England event this year??

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks Pete.
Between work and other jet rallys, I have never been able to make that rally. Jeff and the gang are a great group but it just never seems to work out. This year is no exception. Between Oshkosh and all the jet rallys I am planning to attend, I am gone every weekend in July and August!! I hope my wife does not change the locks on the doors[X(] I am planning to go to Capitol Jets since I have not seen that group of guys in awhile and possibly Maine. We will have to see how it all unfolds.

mikedenilin

My Feedback: (67)

Hi Dom,

Watch your six.

Your phantom looks really nice. I was a bit too late to see it before I arrived at our factory in China, but do get a closer look at my next MIG. Here are some photos. However, I am still too afraid to fly my first MIG 21 that I just got from Shaz, ready to fly. I need to be motivated.

Mike
By the way, I really like the color matching fence and the MIG's bottom. It's so Chinese.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks Mike.
The Phantom is going to look great along side my L-39 and A-4 this season!!
Your Mig looks really cool. don't be afraid....just fly it

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Here is a photo from my original Phantom. I needed lots of BVM heat blanket and aluminum tape to protect the aileron, flap and airlines as they passed from the wing through the fuse. The path from the wing was very close to the turbine nozzle. I wanted to avoid this on the new Phantom and save some weight in the process. So on this Phantom I have relocated this path much farther forward of the stock location. Now all the lines will pass through the fuse at a much cooler point so I won’t have to worry about heat damage.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Hinging starts with lining up the aileron and flap and checking the gaps and alignment between each other and the fuse. Once this is established, you will have to check each surface for proper travel. Some material will have to be removed from the wing TE to obtain the desired surface deflection.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Next the aileron control horn is epoxied into the aileron. I painted the control horn to match the aileron.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

The hinges arrive from the factory glued into the control surfaces. I aggressively attempt to pull these out of the surface in order to verify a solid glue joint. I repeat this procedure for the control horn I just epoxied into place. All was well so I sanded the hinges to prepare for gluing and also placed a couple of drops of oil into the hinge pins. The aileron hinges are then epoxied to the wing. Notice the plywood shim that will not only ensure equal gaps between the aileron and tip as well as aileron and flap but also holds the aileron squarely in position while the epoxy is drying.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

I painted the trailing edge of the wings at the hinge line to improve appearance during times of maximum control defection……I know this may be over the top but those little details are important to me.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

The control horn was glued to the flap and painted just like was done for the aileron. Hinge preparation was the same as well. The flap hinges were then glued to the wing again using the same plywood spacer to aid in alignment and ensure identical gaps between the surfaces.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Here is the wing after the epoxy has cured. Notice the perfect gaps between the surfaces.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

I have a decision to make. I am trying to decide if adding a drogue chute and operational tail hook are worth the weight penalty. I must say that nothing looks cooler than popping the chute after greasing a landing. Well I have a couple more days to think it over before I start work in the tail area.

RCISFUN

My Feedback: (44)

I think Jed would say ...go for it!

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

Dom,

I'd say yes to both although I was unsure how often the Navy and Marine F-4's used their chutes. The chute that Dan Gill makes for the Skymaster F-4 is easily adaptable to the FB F-4.

Bob

dubd

It's looking great Dom! Go for the operational tail hook so I can "borrow" some ideas from you!

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks Guys......now to decide[sm=50_50.gif]

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

I completed the aileron and flap hinging on the right wing panel yeterday. I am now ready to begin servo and landing gear installation. I was planning to start that today but the weather may actually be good enough to get the Cessna out today! We will see.....

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

Hi Dom - is there a reason you didn't go with the GJC Pro version of the plane? I'm assuming you just like to do it yourself so you KNOW it's done correctly. Do they offer a version with gear and doors installed as well as control surfaces hinged?

Thanks

Spence

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Hi Spence.
GJC does offer a version of this jet. I did have the gear doors mostly installed at the FeiBao factory. I say mostly because they need to install the LG to fully install the doors. I did not purchase LG since I had the gear from the first Phantom.

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

Understood...thanks bro. Every time I log onto RCU the first thread I look for is this one.......gonna be great watching your progress!!!!

Sm

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks for the support!!

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

A corresponding hole is cut into the fuse for the new servo wire airline routing. I am pointing to the old and new servo wire routing locations. You can see how much further forward the new location is. Less heat in this area.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

There is a plywood frame built into the wing for the aileron and flap servos. This frame is rock solid at the rear where it is keyed to the rear spar but had some flex up front where it is attached between a couple ribs. I added a hard balsa block (grain direction is vertical) under the frame and the result is rock solid all the way around. 3/16” plywood blocks were cut and glued to the frame to raise the servos off the top wing skin.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

The servos are now mounted to the aluminum brackets. Be sure to use a dab of thick CA on the screws. Never use loctite near plastic. It will make the plastic brittle and it will shatter at some point. Be sure to put a drop of CA on that servo arm screw as well!

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Servo extensions are now added and shrink tubing secures the connection. The extensions are now routed through the wing and out the hole I cut in the forward wing root. Notice the tie wraps in the corners of the servo bay. These will prevent the aileron and flap servo wires from getting tangled in the aileron servo arm.