Boomerang Nano!!!
#1451
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Sluggo
Art is correct about the horn for the Flaps, I forgot about the rake back required for the correct amount of movement to be achieved, my post about the main control surfaces is still accurate though.
Mike
Art is correct about the horn for the Flaps, I forgot about the rake back required for the correct amount of movement to be achieved, my post about the main control surfaces is still accurate though.
Mike
#1452
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Very good, thanks. Art, I did see the illustration showing the rake of the flap/airbrake bolt, thanks for the hole distance. Good reminder Mike about centering the clevis hole over the hinge line, no problem there.
I think I'm out of CA debonder, but I've heard acetone works for CA clean-up.
Looking at the rudders, I did notice that there were no apparent pre-milled slots for the CA hinges. Until now, I thought they were just covered over...guess not. Thanks Art for the advice on cutting the hinge slots. I'll use my Dremel on slow, but practice first on some scrap!
Sluggo
I think I'm out of CA debonder, but I've heard acetone works for CA clean-up.
Looking at the rudders, I did notice that there were no apparent pre-milled slots for the CA hinges. Until now, I thought they were just covered over...guess not. Thanks Art for the advice on cutting the hinge slots. I'll use my Dremel on slow, but practice first on some scrap!
Sluggo
#1454
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
I balanced mine upright, on the wing just inside where it meets the booms. Just put alengthof narrow pinstripe tape spanwise along the recommended balance line, 273 mm forward of the wing trailing edge, and balance there. You can feel the pinstripe with your fingers and lift from there. I balance mine with a full airtrap/UAT and all batteries installed as they would be for flying. Had to add about 3 oz of lead ballast to a hollowed-out nose block and have been flying it there for about 3 seasons now with no problems. Good luck with yours.
Art ARRO
Art ARRO
#1455
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
It doesn't matter either upright or inverted, but its easier inverted as the centre of mass will be below and will not cause an over balance whilst being supported.
Mike
Mike
#1456
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Slow going on my Nano build with work schedule and kids out of school.
One thing I have noticed: MAN, it seems like if I just breathe on this thing I can "print" the underlying balsa!! I have never seen more fragile balsa underneath covering. I'm afraid to bump anything for fear of leaving a ding/dent. I fumbled an aileron servo cover and it dropped on the wing, leaving a mark...and this was from an altitude of about 3 inches, if that.
Well, if there's a bright side, it's forced me to be very deliberate in my work, and not be in a hurry when it comes to setting a tool or part aside.
Sluggo
One thing I have noticed: MAN, it seems like if I just breathe on this thing I can "print" the underlying balsa!! I have never seen more fragile balsa underneath covering. I'm afraid to bump anything for fear of leaving a ding/dent. I fumbled an aileron servo cover and it dropped on the wing, leaving a mark...and this was from an altitude of about 3 inches, if that.
Well, if there's a bright side, it's forced me to be very deliberate in my work, and not be in a hurry when it comes to setting a tool or part aside.
Sluggo
#1458
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
ORIGINAL: nxconvict
Two questions... Are the nano's to be balanced up right or inverted? Does it get balanced on the booms or just inside the booms?Thanks
Two questions... Are the nano's to be balanced up right or inverted? Does it get balanced on the booms or just inside the booms?Thanks
#1459
Join Date: Feb 2006
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Sluggo,
What gear setup did you go with? I'm about to order one and I want to go Electric so I'm thinking Tam's or just Eflite with the wire struts.
Thanks!
What gear setup did you go with? I'm about to order one and I want to go Electric so I'm thinking Tam's or just Eflite with the wire struts.
Thanks!
#1462
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
swps,
I went with BVM 3/16" wire struts with 2 1/4" BVM wheels and brakes on my Nano- now going on the 3rd season with 0 problems. However, I recommend going with Pro-link or equivalent struts if you intend to fly off grass fields. All (most of) my landings and takeoffs have been on pavement and the wire struts hold up just fine. My retracts are Spring-Air also- no problems here either.
Art ARRO
I went with BVM 3/16" wire struts with 2 1/4" BVM wheels and brakes on my Nano- now going on the 3rd season with 0 problems. However, I recommend going with Pro-link or equivalent struts if you intend to fly off grass fields. All (most of) my landings and takeoffs have been on pavement and the wire struts hold up just fine. My retracts are Spring-Air also- no problems here either.
Art ARRO
#1463
Join Date: Feb 2006
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Thanks for the fast replys, I don't have to fly off grass runways, my field is a paved runway and I also fly at salt flats so nice long smooth runway there as well.
Hooker53, where did you get the Dr. Hondas combo?
I just ordered a Red Kit with a Kingtech K-60G, so I'm excited!
Hooker53, where did you get the Dr. Hondas combo?
I just ordered a Red Kit with a Kingtech K-60G, so I'm excited!
#1465
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Ran in to a bit of a problem today:
I got the center section all finished, but when I tested the retracts I noticed I was not getting a complete retraction. The tires are bottoming against the gear well inserts/cups before the gear is fully up and locked. Seems like the "cup" is too shallow by about 1/8 inch, maybe a bit more.
I am using the Dreamworks Pro-link gear that is supposedly a drop-in fit. I've had better "drop-in fits" on other airplanes. Some Dremeling was still required.
Luckily I learned from my Intro and did NOT epoxy the gear well inserts in place. There were times with the Intro that having some good access into the center section interior would have been nice. So instead of epoxy, I used button-head screws around the perimeter to hold the inserts in place, like with a canopy installation. Anyway, about the only good solution I can see is to cut out the bottom of the gear well cups, and somehow find a way to deepen the cup so the tire will not hit bottom and thus give a complete up-and-locked retraction.
Obviously the easiest thing to do is simply cut out a circle in the gear well cup that matches the circumference of the tire and leave it at that, but I'd rather not have the center section interior exposed. Granted, when retracted the tire would pretty much seal the hole, but doing this just seems a little crude.
Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions? Right now I'm thinking of trying to find a a couple of plastic drinking cups that will slip just around the perimeter of the gear well cups, cut them to fit, and create a deeper gear well.
And MAN, is this some soft underlying balsa or what! If my fingernail touches the surface, it leaves a print. Man.
Thanks,
Randy
I got the center section all finished, but when I tested the retracts I noticed I was not getting a complete retraction. The tires are bottoming against the gear well inserts/cups before the gear is fully up and locked. Seems like the "cup" is too shallow by about 1/8 inch, maybe a bit more.
I am using the Dreamworks Pro-link gear that is supposedly a drop-in fit. I've had better "drop-in fits" on other airplanes. Some Dremeling was still required.
Luckily I learned from my Intro and did NOT epoxy the gear well inserts in place. There were times with the Intro that having some good access into the center section interior would have been nice. So instead of epoxy, I used button-head screws around the perimeter to hold the inserts in place, like with a canopy installation. Anyway, about the only good solution I can see is to cut out the bottom of the gear well cups, and somehow find a way to deepen the cup so the tire will not hit bottom and thus give a complete up-and-locked retraction.
Obviously the easiest thing to do is simply cut out a circle in the gear well cup that matches the circumference of the tire and leave it at that, but I'd rather not have the center section interior exposed. Granted, when retracted the tire would pretty much seal the hole, but doing this just seems a little crude.
Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions? Right now I'm thinking of trying to find a a couple of plastic drinking cups that will slip just around the perimeter of the gear well cups, cut them to fit, and create a deeper gear well.
And MAN, is this some soft underlying balsa or what! If my fingernail touches the surface, it leaves a print. Man.
Thanks,
Randy
#1468
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Sluggo,
The drinking cup mod to the Nano wheel wells should work OK. Anothermethod would be to contact Patriciaand see if any of the larger Boomer wheel wells would work, ie, from the Sprint. I recently checked the diameter of the Elan's wheel wells and they measured 3 1/2" but didn't check the depth. This was for another project.
Art ARRO
The drinking cup mod to the Nano wheel wells should work OK. Anothermethod would be to contact Patriciaand see if any of the larger Boomer wheel wells would work, ie, from the Sprint. I recently checked the diameter of the Elan's wheel wells and they measured 3 1/2" but didn't check the depth. This was for another project.
Art ARRO
#1469
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Thanks for the suggestions. I had used drinking cups for the wheel wells on the Intro, and that did work pretty good.
As far as shimming the retract, I played with that, then decided against it. Right now the retract is nice and flush with the lower skin. It would take a fairly thick shim to get a up-and-locked condition, and this would make the retract noticably "un-flush" with the lower skin.
Maybe the Sprint well covers would work. I think I'll look into this.
Man I hate to whine, but crap like this is why I HATE building (yeah, I know, ARF's aren't really "building"). It's such a waste of time screwing with PITA stuff like this.
Ok, whine over...I feel better now
Sluggo
As far as shimming the retract, I played with that, then decided against it. Right now the retract is nice and flush with the lower skin. It would take a fairly thick shim to get a up-and-locked condition, and this would make the retract noticably "un-flush" with the lower skin.
Maybe the Sprint well covers would work. I think I'll look into this.
Man I hate to whine, but crap like this is why I HATE building (yeah, I know, ARF's aren't really "building"). It's such a waste of time screwing with PITA stuff like this.
Ok, whine over...I feel better now
Sluggo
#1470
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
If I remember correctly, the well covers pretty much go all the way to the internal ribs. Getting deeper covers from elsewhere might not work as there isn't enough room in the wing.
IMO the only options are to leave them off, cut the bottoms out or try to find some narrower wheels (and/or wire legs).
With the wells left off completely, my pro-link gear only just about fits. Fit the gear with the wells off and have a look to see how much room you have to play with (I'm guessing not a lot).
IMO the only options are to leave them off, cut the bottoms out or try to find some narrower wheels (and/or wire legs).
With the wells left off completely, my pro-link gear only just about fits. Fit the gear with the wells off and have a look to see how much room you have to play with (I'm guessing not a lot).
#1471
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Sluggo,
You might want to look at Jet Junkie's method on Posts # 1405-1420 on mounting ProLink retracts to the Nano. There's a bit of work but perhaps he's willing to sell the new vacuum-formed wheel well (bays) that he's fabricated for the Nano. Those are really neat.
You won't see the dents in the covering when the Nano is airborne-just don't look to close when it's on the ground-LOL.
Art ARRO
You might want to look at Jet Junkie's method on Posts # 1405-1420 on mounting ProLink retracts to the Nano. There's a bit of work but perhaps he's willing to sell the new vacuum-formed wheel well (bays) that he's fabricated for the Nano. Those are really neat.
You won't see the dents in the covering when the Nano is airborne-just don't look to close when it's on the ground-LOL.
Art ARRO
#1472
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
With the wheel well I inserts removed I do get a full up and locked retraction. So, while I agree there is not much extra depth available, there is enough, especially if the air lines are routed around the gear well area.
Most likely I'll just end up cutting out a circle that matches the tire and press on.
Most likely I'll just end up cutting out a circle that matches the tire and press on.
#1473
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RE: Boomerang Nano!!!
Hi all,
just would like to post some pictures of my Nano ready for its maiden flight.
Turbine: JetsMunt VT80
Lado electric retracts with Jet-A1 legs
Weight: 6.3kg (dry)
Wish me luck for the maiden
Ulrich
just would like to post some pictures of my Nano ready for its maiden flight.
Turbine: JetsMunt VT80
Lado electric retracts with Jet-A1 legs
Weight: 6.3kg (dry)
Wish me luck for the maiden
Ulrich