Jim Cattanach

Yes. You would think they could get the basics right. Some quality control would not go amiss. I just hope it fly's as well as the hype says. However, I haven't read a bad flying report.

heraldoboldrin

can someone put a picture of a turbine installation from the viper with and without bypass??

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Well, here are a few without a bypass. I don't know of anyone who has done one with a bypass.

Carsten Groen

Elevators finished, and the "U" shaped carbon plates for the maingear are glued (they are also part of the set from Digitech:

Carsten Groen

cable/tube:

Jim Cattanach

I did not like feeding the servo wires close to the landing gear, so I fed them down the other side of the former. I may also feed the airlines the same way.

Carsten Groen

Jascat,
probably a better idea! However I was lazy
I have around 5..6 mm clearance between the knee of the gear and the tube/cables, so I figured that was ok
The tube/wires are fastened to the wall all the way, so they should stay there (hopefully) []

Jim Cattanach

Started fitting out the fuselage today. The front equipment tray is not much use, as the front cockpit tub almost reaches the top of it. I didn't fit it. I used the space for the three air tanks.
I made up a new board & fitted it between the tanks & the fuse joiner. I shortened the rear cockpit tub by about half an inch, as it doesn't fit in the space provided between the tank & the fuse joiner. Still some work to finish off the equipment installation, but it's going well.

Carsten Groen

Thanks for posting the pictures jascat, thats where I'm heading in a couple of days
Finished the wings for now, no wood inside the flaps for the horns (well, there was a little block, but not much worth, the ailerons had some more, but it did not extend to the top skin!
So sponge used again

SinCityJets

What does the sponge do?

Chad

Carsten Groen

Chad,
in post 241 you can hopefully see what I mean, I hope "sponge" is the right word for the material []
As there are no wood inside for the horns, I simply insert some pieces of "sponge" inside to create a "cavity" where the horns will be sitting. This cavity is filled with epoxy, and the horns inserted. This will create a block of epoxy inside, "simulating" the wood that should have been there.
The epoxy then has contact with the upper and lower skin and the spars inside.
Only thing to careful about, is that there is enough glue inside, some of it will go into the sponge, so after a few minutes (before inserting the horns) I add some more, until I'm sure the cavity is completely filled.
I hope this makes sense, I could have explained it much better in Danish, but that would probably not work very well

SinCityJets

Carsten,

Your english is almost better than mine. You explained it just fine.

Thanks for the tip.

Chad

Carsten Groen

Thanks Chad
The trick is to make sure that the sponge is everywhere so the cavity is closed! I then use 30 min epoxy with Tix and microballons so it won't "run" too much inside, Hysol would obviously be a better alternative, but I have not changed to that yet []

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

why dont you guys use some balsa and Hysol?
insert some balsa and cover with hysol , then put it the horns?

also Carsten "what happens in hedensted stays in hedensted"

Carsten Groen

You are right Sandor, the balsa would be the obvious, but I simply hate to make big holes in the surfaces to put enough wood inside to hold the double horns, and you know, with that big engine you sold me, I want to make sure the horns stay in the there

Jim Cattanach

Carsten. The ball link between the two horns is good. What is not so good is the other end. It is not good to fit a ball link to one side of a servo arm. It puts lots of twisting forces on the servo arm & may couse flutter problems as well. Much better with a clevis at the servo end.
Just my thoughts.

Regards
Jim

NightSwan

Hi Jim,

I'd have to agree with you. Though that would mean you couldn't use the alu arms at the servo end.

These look cool though:



My kit went on the post today, so maybe I'll have something to do after the weekend
Hans

Carsten Groen

Jim,
I think you are right, but I'm not sure that it will be able to do any twisting, the alu arm is very thick and wide ?
But, I will have a more experienced builder here look it over too, if it's no good, I will change it to clevises, thanks for the heads up !
(I have used the same method before on other large scale planes, 2.7m comp arf pitts S12, Eurosport, comparf 2.6m extra 300, and never seen a problem)

Jim Cattanach

Hans. These look ideal for the purpose, as long as they are metal & not plastic.

NightSwan

Hi Jim,

they are carbon-reinforced plastic. (I think like the heavy-duty Hitec arms) I think I'm going to order some to get a feel for them.
Otherwise I'll have to go for nylon arms and traditional clevises. Clevis + alu doesn't work for me.

If anyone knows of a alu version of these please let us know

@Carsten, I don't think the twisting of the arms is the problem when using the alu ones, but the load they pose on the output gear/bearing combination - although the ball at least is on the right side of the the arm.

Nice (quick!) build - I havent even had a chance to start!!

PaulD

My Feedback: (39)

I have seen and done many installations of alum arms with ball links with no problems whatsoever. The potential downsides of a worn fit between a relatively small clevis pin and the servo arm are worse IMO.

My Viper should be on its way any day now. [8D]

PaulD

Duncan

I've had the phone call to say my Viper has landed Now i just need to figure out an excuse to get out of work to go and pick it up from Ali !!

Selleri

Better just send it straight to me as you wont have time for it with all that baby stuff going on.

Congrats btw!

Carsten Groen

Got the cockpits adjusted so they fit.
I will make the front one "semi permanent", and the aft will be removed for filling fuel/air and charging.
I removed the two pins in the canopy, they were HUGE, and they got in the way for the front tub, I made two new pins at the edge of the canopy instead.
Just need to make a cover for the front, the one that follows the kit is way too short, so will make a new one of some wood instead....

BTW, I removed the brace in the front of the canopy, I added some epoxy around the inside of the curve in the front to make it more stiff.
I also removed some of the brace in the back, it is very wide from the factory, no need for that (and it looks ugly )
And no, it is not cyano fog or epoxy fingers, it's just dust on the glass

NightSwan

Dont you just love those calls