ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

HI guys,
I am getting ready to paint my A10.

I have considered doin the usual PPG over primer with clear or using a tinted primer and one second 'gray" fro the camo effect.

Anyone using anything more of a one step? or latex? Krylon?

Thanks
Dave

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Dave, I think PPG has something along the lines of a single stage clear and color in one but I am not sure you would be able to get the dead flat effect of a military paint job. Might be worth checking out though.

jetfreak

My Feedback: (9)

I believe the paint from PPG that is single stage is called "CONCEPT 2000" . Ian is right, it will dry with a glossy appearance. To dull it down I would use some 0000 steel wool. It works great.

sean

jimbo1846

The two gray's I use are PPG concept DCC. #DCC36320 & DCC36375 with a flatner added.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Jimbo.

Are you using the ppg primer , then those two followed by the flat ppg clear?

Any mixing or spraying (tip size) tips for primer and paint?
thanks
Dave

Harley Condra

My Feedback: (4)

I painted my FA-18F with PPG Concept Acrylic Urethane enamel. (DCC)
It dries glossy, so I used DX685 flattening agent.

Colors: Bottom: Cloud Gray, PPG paint code number 35521
Top: Mack (truck) Gray, PPG paint code 35522

Since it is not a scale competition airframe, I used the old time honored "TLAR" (That Looks About Right) method to pick the colors which reduced the materiel expense.
I compared the FED STD. 595 color chips to the PPG fleet auto/truck color chips to get a close match, and found these to be close enough.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Harley.

DId you use ppg prima/primer underneath?

Thanks
Dave

Wren Turbines USA

My Feedback: (39)

I have had excellent results using PPG NCS 1990 sealer with NCX 1995 activator and reduced with DT 870.

This is the sealer we use in the shop and it sticks to almost anything. Once cured, lacquer thinner won't touch it.

By reducing, it can be sprayed at a very low pressure, covers in 2 medium coats and levels out flat (smooth) with no shine. And it is tintable up to 10% using any of the DBU or DBC toners.

I am using it on my A-10...

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks very much for sharing your methods
dave

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I used Model Master Enamels, and Del Clear with a flattner on m old F-16. Very easy to touch up.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Ron,

Are you sing the sealer as your "paint"?

Are you clearing over it?

Thanks
Dave

jimbo1846

I use PPG primer but only in places that I need to. You can use a flat clear I do not because it makes touch up easier for me.
I use my 40+ develbiss touch up gun.

Wren Turbines USA

My Feedback: (39)

Dave,

It may be cheating, but yes it is the topcoat. I have not found a more durable product that is so easy to use, and can be tinted. Adds virtually no weight, and is easily repaired. It's smooth, it's flat..and it is fuel proof for any fuel (glow-kero-even nitro)..and the adhesion is great!! We have a difficult time cleaning it off the mix bench in the paint ropom...the top is stainless...

Do be cautious if you spray it though..as it has a horrible odor, so suit up and wear a good mask...

Cheers,

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Can you guys give me an idea of how much paint I will need (color) to cover the A10?

I will be doing the typical scheme -mostly the lighter color with a "darker" fwd fuse, wing tops and fuse top.

I didn't think one quart of lighter color would cover everything?

I am pretty sure one quart of darker gray will be plenty though.

thanks!
Dave

Harley Condra

My Feedback: (4)

Dave,
I did not use any primer at all.I scuffedthe surface with a 3M Scotch-Brite 7747+ pad before painting.
The TamJets FA-18F comes prepainted with urethane enamel,so scuffing and cleaning the surface is all that is needed before paint.
The gray colors will cover any repairs that are needed before paint. No need to prime those spots either.
I use Evercoat "Spot Lite" No. 445 finishing putty to repair surface imperfections.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Harley. I am surprised that you didn't need primer in the sanded/primed areas, I have always been worried not to use the primer over exposed fiberglass without gelcoat.

I need help with a painting set-up, can anyone tell me if  a 5.5 cfm @40 psi is suitable for HVLP?
I don't know what the cfm rating is down around 5-15 psi. Is simply a 30 gal tank going to work ok?
I am trying not to buy a gigantic compressor but hoping a 1.5-2.0 HP compressor with 26-30 gal tank will work for an HVLP Sata 3000 or similar?

ALternatively I have been looking at an air turbine supply for the gun....I don't have any experience with these though..

Thanks
Dave

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

whoops, I meant in the sanded/filled areaes for primer..

Harley Condra

My Feedback: (4)

Let me try toclear up a misconception, or at the least,explain whatI perceive as a conflict in terms.
Ihave read many posts that refer to "Gelcoat" on a model jet fuselage.
Unless you have a polyester glass fuselage, there is no gelcoat on or in the fiberglass part.

Gelcoat is a polyester product, and is seldom used in conjunction with epoxy laminates.

An exception would be where a polyester based mold is used to manufacture epoxy laminates.

The product we call "gelcoat is designed to be used as an exterior coating which requires no painting. It is usually sprayed into the mold cavity (It can also be brushed) and allowed to set for a short period.
Many polyester laminates are accomplished with achopper gun..... a tool that cuts fiberglass rope into shortfibers, mixes them with catalyzed resin, and then blows thechopped mixture into the mold. Some chopper gun parts are then covered with woven fiberglass cloth. Most are just rolled with compacting rollers which roll the fibers into atightly compactedmatrix.
Mostfiberglass boats on the market have a gelcoated exterior surface.It is available in many colors, but white gelcoatcanbedyed with polyester pigments.

The fiberglass airframes we are using in the hobby are generally, if not always an epoxy glass laminate.
They are usually coated with a urethane enamel primer, such as PPG K36 "Prima".

The K36or equivalent is sprayed into the mold interior after the mold release is applied and polished. Whenthe primer/surfacer is dry, thelaminate is layed up over the primer.When cured, the primer comes out of the mold with the fuselage.
On certain parts, such as intake ducts or bypass tubes, the layup is done on a primered or painted male mold, cured, then removed and seamed.


The only product that is similar to gelcoat inepoxy laminates is called "facecoat" or "surface coat".
The facecoatprovides the surface of the maleor female mold. It is applied to the plug after the mold release systemand then built up with laminating resin and tooling cloth.Itprovides a hard, polishable andrepairablesurface that will last for many layups as long as it gets proper maintenance.

I am not a composite engineer, but have been around these products for a lifetime in the aerospace industry.
See www.fiberglast.com for more information.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the clarification and the lesson!
Dave

Kelly Rohrbach

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Dave
I used DX995 flatting agent mixed right into the paint, this way I did not have to use any clear and still ended up with a flat or semi flat finish, worked perfect. I did some experiments on amount of DX995 to use and found the flat look that I wanted then just mixed the proper amount right into the can so down the road when I need to do a repair its already to go. I only need to add in the hardner and reducer and spray.
All the promark transfers went down with no problem and I know I saved weight by not having to clear. Plus that's one less step to have to do on a repair.
This was on my Tam F18

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Kelly.

I appreciate the feedback. I am leaning towards trying your method as I am short on time and the weight savings sounds good too.

My local guys made it sound like it could go almost 0.75 to 1 for ratio of flatner to paint. I can't imagine having too much as long as it does not upset the drying and adhesion?

DO you happen to recall a rough ration of mix that gave a good effect?

Did you reduce per instructions or do oyu have your own recipe?

Thanks!

PS_ having fun with my Tam f18 this summer - hope you are too!

jdrd

Dave,

Please call me, and let me save you some time and grief.

Joe Grice

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Joe!
PM-d you.
Dave

Kelly Rohrbach

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Joe
Your A10 is incredible!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

tp777fo

My Feedback: (28)

I use Testors Model Masters paint to get the proper color (use the fs numbers)I then paint it on white plastic sheets. Take those sheets to your local car paint guys and have them match it. I used Flex n flat clear to get the flat finish. After is dries it will be shiny, go over it with 0000 steel wool for a great paint job. Even the real ones are "semi gloss" as they come out of the barn flat then get a little shine with wear.