Alex48

Hi Ian

You can get them from here:

http://ashtekelectronics.com/shop/connectors-c170.html

You'll need to buy all the crimping tools etc.. but it's worth the effort. I've used them for all sorts of models and wouldn't be without them now.

HTH

Cheers, Alex

Alex48

Finished the three different color wash's, It needs to be tidied up in the sunlight, not that there's much of that in the UK at the moment. Areas will be highlighted and tweaked to get it up to standard. I'll wait until the models fitted out now before finishing the weathering and scale details. It filled the gap nicely while I waited for supply's

Alex48

Finished the tanks off , with a 4.4 liter total capacity flight time wont be a problem. Ive used some Tamjets ali surrounds with BVM tank fittings and instead of tygon used BVM polyply. I've never used this before but on Ali's recommendation thought I'd give it a try. It's supposed to stay flexible as opposed to the tygons habit of going a bit stiff over time.

Alex48

Started laying out the bits in the front. Air tanks, ECU, and pump will be under the front cockpit and the rest under the aft. This will be divided into three layers. On the bottom will be all pneumatic tubing and much of the wiring. In the middle the power unit from the Spektrum 12100, solenoids and filter etc... Finally the top will have the Airpower EV5D multi valve, switch, I/O board and filling stations. Taken a few hours to sort it out but getting there. I'll be mounting the UAT on the left side to keep it clear of the cockpit floor. To get it under the cockpit it would have to lay flat, I prefer to have it at 45 degrees so i made a mount up to allow this. Just have a few bits to do and I can get back to the scale side of things.

Cheers, Alex

Alex48

Hi Guys

Managed a bit more on the L39, busy with other things atm but getting there.

It was obvious early on that this model was going to need some help to get the CG within limits. With this in mind I ordered two 3300NiMH, no point using Lipo's and regulators then adding lead, saves some money too. I wanted the battery's accessible so I made a ply plate that I could slide in and out of the nose. I extended the battery leads and added some EC3 connectors, while the soldering iron was out I finished making up the aileron and flap wiring. A bit of gray paint and it was glued in with hysol

The other little bits I've done are to set the radio up, install the four rx's, protected the wiring that enters the forward fuz with shrink sleeve to stop any possible chaffing more important on prop models but old habits and all that.....

The ends of the control surfaces were all painted as they were just left bare out the box which looks odd when you waggle the sticks. The air system was tested and proved reliable with the Airpower EV5-U multi function valve.

Cheers, Alex

Ian Goddard

I Alex,
My FEJ L39 arrived the other day, I haven’t had a chance to look at it in detail but at first glance it looks like a quality kit. Judging by the online build manual I think I’ll be relying for the most part on your thread.

Alex48

Hi Ian

Like the paint job. If it's any consolation the Skymaster manual wasn't much help either.

Cheers, Alex

KXH121

My Feedback: (20)

Hello Alex,
Any updates to your L-39?

Alex48

Hello

Should get something up in the next few days, cockpits required more work than anticipated but then what doesn't in this hobby

Cheers, Alex

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Alex,

I just got my Skymaster L-39 Yesterday and have been busy unpacking all the parts. I am following your thread very closely, your pictures and explanations are very informative. Please continue with the updates if you can.

One of my cockpits came in cracked also. The exhaust tube was missing one of the metal tabs, and with the exception of some small pieces of wood floating in the fuse, there is no other damage.
I did notice that the wing tanks have two small holes on the side that faces the wing. The instructions say to line the pins up with the two matching holes in the wing tip. There are no holes in my wing tips. Was yous the same as mine (no pins and no holes in the wing tips?)

Thanks,
Stan

Alex48

Hi Stan<o></o>

My tip tanks were the same as yours. I enlarged the holes in the tanks and fitted the pins then made a template out of light ply. All I had to do was mark the end of the wing using the template and drill a few holes. I found doing it this way the tanks fitted perfectly first go. I was undecided about fitting landing lights so I didn’t glue them on initially which was a good move as I'm now sticking some lights in.

I’ve been a bit slack updating the thread, the model is now in a flyable condition but I’ve got loads of little scale extras to do, it also needs a clear coat applied to protect all my weathering.

I’ve just started to make the tooling for pylons and the large drop tanks, I’m also going to make some UB16 rocketpods. There are some very good pylons and tanks commercially available but I want to use the larger Russian tanks that the Hungarian air force use on their L39ZA’s
I’ll update the thread when I get back to the workshop, I’m out and about testing with a customer the next couple of days so should get it done middle of next week.

Glad your finding this build useful.

Cheers, Alex

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tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Alex,

So I am not alone on my tip tanks. I will follow your method on installing the pins and drilling holes in the end of the wing.

Glad to know that you will return to updates on your progress. The information is invaluable.

Thank you
Stan

trioval00

My Feedback: (17)

Alex. Bvm's web site has upgraded packages for the Skymaster L-39. one is an upgrade for the landing gear struts, and the other one is plywood parts, quick air connectors and a hardware package, with also a more detailed instruction manual as BVM built their own SM L-39.

Are these upgrades needed that BVM has to offer?


I will be picking up my SM -39 next week and plan to start building asap, as I will be building mine scale with many details with the help from details 4 scale.

The only items Details 4 scale has is the drop tanks and the lighting.

What other scale options hae you installed in your L-39

Thanks

Mark

Alex48

Hi Mark

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Alex,

I am starting to install my rudder servo. I am using a Hitec 7955. I imagine it is about the same size as the 8411. I can install the servo with the servo arm at the top of the servo which would be in the direction of the top of the fin, or I can mount the servo with the servo arm at the bottom of the servo facing down.

If I mount it with the servo arm at the top of the servo the bottom of the servo will stick out the bottom of the verticle fin a bit. I probably will cut a opening in the fuse portion to accommodate that part of the servo. Hope I am making myself clear.

I am wondering which direction most of the guy's have gone with their rudder servos and if it makes a difference.

Thanks,
Stan

Alex48

Hi Stan 

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Alex,

I have spent several hours on the rudder servo mount and am getting closer but still having a problem.
Putting the servo in with the servo arm facing down would put the servo high in the fin. Putting the servo in with the servo arm towards the top of the fin puts the servo closer to bottom where it is easier to reach. There have been pictures posted but unfortunately only pictures of the outside of the slot.

Either way I am having a difficult time with it.

The stab and wings are no problem for me.

I am open for any suggestions.

Thanks,
Stan

Alex48

Hi StanIf you can wait a few days I'll take some pictures of my installation for you. You could cut a hole in the mount for the fin without any stuctual issues. I do remember it being a real pain sort out.Cheers, Alex

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Alex,

I think I am going ahead with the installation. I have a pretty good idea of what I will do. just took me a while to feel comfortable with it.
You don't have to bother with the pictures.

Stan

trioval00

My Feedback: (17)

if it isnt a problem please post a few pics of the rudder servo........ pics from either one of you.

Mark

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Mark,

I thought I had it made until another problem arose.

What are your ideas on the instalation of the rudder servo?

Stan

trioval00

My Feedback: (17)

Stan.............. I have no idea as of yet, my kit is waiting for me to pick it up in a few days, but I am doing my homework now and as they say, getting all my ducks in a row. I plan to start building the L-39 as soon as I finish covering my 1/3 scale corsair. which should be by the Holidays.

this will be my 6th jet and this one i want to go all scale, still not sure on the color scheme yet...... I must have looked at hundreds of L-39 photos on airliners.net looking for something different and bright colors......

mark

Alex48

Just got home, I'll stick some photos up tonight

Cheers, Alex

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Alex,

That would be great.

Stan

Alex48

Here's some photos of the rudder servo installation. The first thing I did was to enlarge the hole. I then made some hardwood servo bearers. I spent ages getting the fit right. I had to use a sharp chisel to get rid of the excess glue on the internal structure, Skymaster certainly aren't stingy with the glue!. Wrapped the servo in clingfilm and hysoled it all into place. I use hex head servo screws so they're very easy to get in and out as the screw stays on the driver. I made one further hole to access the forward most screws. It took about an hour to sort out once I'd decided how to do it.

Hope this helps

Cheers, Alex

The clear carrier films on the decals are currently visible as you can see in the last picture. This will completely disappear once a clear coat has been applied and give that painted on look. The clear coat is essential if your going to use water slides. You could avoid this using rub downs as there not as delicate but I'd still recommend a clear coat especially if the models weathered. Thought I'd mention this as the eagle eyed among you would undoubtedly notice, It doesnt look good until you've given it a spray.