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  1. #376

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Hi David.

    Ive had good success with rivets using the syringe and glue technique. Typically it all comes down to the tools and a bit of practice. See this link for good reference on the process and links to Gaunt Industries who sell the syringes - these are a must, and make the job pretty much fool proof.

    http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint/rivets.htm

    It is simple to adjust the size of the droplets to match your existing ones. I have had best results using Pacer Canopy white glue.

    See a few shots of my BVM Mig-15 most of the way through the process. It took a night or two to add all the rivets to the fuse.

    Cheers.
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  2. #377
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    You can buy tiny rivets, they seem mainly available via model train outlets as they are used on steam locos etc, the only drawback is having to sand the surface flat and then drill each hole for each rivet [] Painful but I guess very convincing - probably adds a few ounces as well!

    Working through the cockpit currently, have trimmed the two floor sections to fit now, the resulting slimmed down width still leaves a nice small gap down both sides of the seats. The two mouldings which carry the foot locations and lower binacles require fixing to the floor sections, again having them removable would be better so added a strip of balsa to the open ends to add rigidity and plan to use a screw to secure front and rear. The seats again needed to be removable, mainly to give access to the screws which secure the floor panels down. I had my cnc guru cut some plates and sockets, the plates are glued to the bases of the seats, at the rear they have a tab which locates into a slot created buy two plates fitted one on top of the other, this is screwed to the floor, at the front a smaller tab with a hole allows a screw to be used to secure the seat in place - while the rear is held in the slot device.

    Hope to get to fit the rear instrument panel and cover tomorrow which will then allow me to finish the canopy off.

    marcs

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  3. #378
    David Gladwin's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Thanks for the rivets tips. prabablu use pin heads and heavy coat of primer !

    After a lot of tedious work I have completed working stab covers with the tracks as I did on my AirWorld Hawks looks very convincing.

    I got them, I think, about 97 % scale as the slight diffence in the pivot poit from the real Hawk puts them slightly out.

    Regards,

    David G
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  4. #379
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    I received my Inlets, bypass and fuel tank and formers!
    Unbelievable work! The quality is awesome! The Best!
    Even came with instruction manual! Very professional!
    Im really floored with the work you guys have done!!
    These items really complete the kit and should make it an even better flyer!
    I really appreciate you guys making these available!!
    Thanks Marc and Ali!!
    Scott
    Scott Marr

  5. #380
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Scott,
    Glad it all arrived safe and the contents were to your liking. We have spend loads of time on this so its good to get positive feedback, between Rich and me it takes around 4 days to make a single set, so this is a real cottage industry
    Keep us posted on how things go and as always if you need any info just PM me.

    marcs

  6. #381

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    David,

    Nice work on those stabilizer cover plates and tracks.
    Seems like a very light weight addition for a much more scale like apperance.
    I'm just working on the same modifications for my Tommy-Hawk.

    Furthermore, it seems as if the nose gear needs to be build in about 10 mm further forward.
    On the Mk-66 Hawk, when viewed from the side, the nose gear centerline should touch the forward edge of the 2 small circular access panels on the lower fuse.
    I don't have any pictures of the Mk-1 or T1(a) though.

    Noto also the small bulge on the underside of the nose gear doors and the bend plates at the rear side.
    I wonder if they function as some kind of deflectors? These can be seen on the red arrows Hawk too.

    Regards,

    Remco45
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  7. #382
    David Gladwin's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Thanks remco. The inner plates are made of 10 th glass board the outer surface is 20 thou board. The tracks are made of 2 layers of 20 board, the inner slightly smaller to accomodate the "flange" on the cover. Simple in concept takes ages of fiddling !looks great., I have done that to both of my AW Hawks, trouble free and very smooth and thescrews which retain the tracks also reatin the rear "hatch " The nose gear position on my Hawks is related to the forwards edge of the windscreen and looks OK , perhaps those panels are in the wrong position ! Looks OK too according to the drawings I have. The small bend at the aft of the nose doors form a small exhaust when the doors are closed. it may be to exhaust warm air from the Avionics in the bay above the nosewheel well. Not sure of the reason for the bulge on the nose doors. It MIGHT be to allow the leg to extend without hitting the door which is, I believe, mechanically linked to it. I pulled the small NG door closed on my AW Hawks by two springs. The SG is better in that a collar swivels meaning the attachment rods to the M gear does not try to rotate when the nose leg steers. I have finished the door and hinges, still working on those rods,. Can't be totally scale as the pivot point on the model retract unit is not in the same place as the real Hawk. Regards, David.

  8. #383
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Today I managed to get some work done on the cockpit splitter screen (no sure of the technical term!) it comprises of three components. A frame, a piece of plexiglass and a strip of moulded fibreglass.
    In the standard canopy set-up this 'splitter' and the rear instrument binnacle are mounted to the underside if the canopy frame, and when this is removed the binnacle goes with it. The D4S side hinge arrangement is slightly different.
    D4S do supply a replacement binnacle cover, but I found the original was fine, due to the narrower overall width of the cockpit it seemed to fit OK.
    The side hinged canopy calls for the splitter to be fixed to it, and the instrument binnacle remains in the cockpit tub as per the FS.

    The assembly of this item is fiddly and very time consuming. First job was to fit the frame to the glass moulded surround, easier said than done! The flanges on the end of the glass moulding are shaped to fit inside the canopy, resting on the frame and canopy plastic, then the moulded frame is meant to sit inside this, problem I encountered was the overall width when these items were assembled caused the canopy to spread and loose its correct shape - something had to go! Eventually I trimmed the flanges off the glass moulding so they would fit flush to the frame and finish just short of its ends - the small gap which resulted would be below the canopy frame moulding so not seen.

    I sanded the inside of the glass moulding and the edges of the frame (which is supplied painted satin black), I then drilled a small hole through the glass moulding at the very end of one side and temporarily screwed the moulding to the frame, I checked the other end of the moulding finished in the same place, and when done I positioned the frame inside the moulding so it was central and tacked it in a few places with cyano and kicker. Once the frame was secure centrally inside the glass moulding I completed the fixture by adding a bead of cyano around the entire contact surface, both front and back.

    On the FS the inside of this frame system is black, to achieve this I applied masking tape to the top surface of the glass frame (which remains white) and sprayed the rest of the frame with some satin black. Next came the plexiglass. This is pre drilled (as is the frame) to accept small screws which are supplied, however the holes only line up when the plexiglass is one way round, and when in this position some of the lower horizontal holes miss the frame altogether [] I opted to change the small screws supplied as I did not like to fix the plexiglass by simply using self tappers with the points sticking out, the FS has a nut and bolt type fixture so this is what I opted for. M2 x 6mm cap head bolts, washers and M2 nuts replaced the original screws, over 30 of them, a bit fiddly at times but a better overall look in my opinion.

    Next job was to fit the splitter, it has to go in the correct position so that when the cockpit is opened the frame does not foul on the front seat, tolerances here are tight so I did a few dry runs to make sure it cleared before marking the correct location.
    Fixing was going to be fun, as I'm not an Octopus having only two hands was a distinct drawback, trying to hold the frame in three places while applying a glue that would go only where you wanted it and then set in seconds was proving hard to accomplish. Screws I thought. I measured the location of the frame base section which sits on the canopy frame to its meatiest point, then drilled a hole in the canopy frame in this location. I then held the frame on one side first and drilled the remainder of the hole made in the canopy frame through into the splitter frame base, two socket head servo screws were used to secure. The frame is now held nicely in place and can be removed if needed, something glue would prevent.

    Sorry for the ramble, its amazing how one item requires so much info on fixing!

    marcs
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  9. #384

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Hi Marc,

    Not at all, we need this kind of ramble!
    Actually it's very informative.
    I've received the D4S side opening cockpit too for my Tommy-Hawk, so now I know what I'm up against...
    On the side, not that anyone would bother, but the 34 bolts on the real Hawk have hexagonal heads.

    Regards,

    Remco

  10. #385
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Yep indeed they do, unfortunately although a small hexagonal bolt is available I believe at this size, cap heads were readily available and close enough

    marcs

  11. #386

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Regarding various scale issues brought up recently in this thread, see the Tomahawk-Design BAe Hawk 1:3.5 for some pictures and measurements.

    Regards,

    Remco

  12. #387
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Managed to get the main cockpit seats and consoles sorted today.

    The front instrument binacle was already done using to locating pins to secure the front and two screws on the sides into the front screen surround for fixing. The rear console needed to be removable, as it has to be attached to the main tub not the canopy frame as the side hinges are used.
    The cover has to be positioned so it allows the 'splitter' frame in the canopy to close without catching, alignment is a matter of temporarily fixing it into place with blue-tac and checking with the canopy closed, eventually the correct location is found. The cover is fairly flimsy so I added two thin aluminium strips down each side, this made a big difference. Next was how to fix the unit, after a few aborted attempts I settled on adding a thin plate to the front of the cover which then was screwed with two servo screws to the flat faces on the side cockpit mouldings.

    I glued the seat mounting frames which I had cnc cut to the bottom of each of the seat assemblies, when dry I positioned them in the correct position on the base plates and slide the rear catches into place and drilled the three fixing holes, small domed head M3 nuts and bolts secured them in. With the seats slotted into the rear catches I drilled the front retaining screw hole in the base plate. Both the front and rear base plate sections had a piece of lite ply glued to the bottoms to add some fixing material for the nuts and bolts and retaining screws to get a good purchase.

    Now everything lines up I will remove and paint the parts that need doing and then re-assemble.

    Seatbelt fixings and pilot should finish the cockpit tub off - oh and re-fixing an assortment of switches and levers which have fallen off during the process, most of which seem to have been poorly fixed to start with - worth checking before hand

    marcs
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  13. #388
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    rear console.....
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  14. #389

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    marc

    Lovely work as usual, but you will have to remove the Swiss U-1252 serial number from the instrument panel to retain scale fidelity if your client is not planning on a Swiss colour scheme! BTW I am going to print your instrument panel photo and use it on my Jim Fox Hawk.

  15. #390
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    John, if you want a high res version happy to shoot and ping one over to you.

    marcs

  16. #391

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marc

    I would appreciate that, then I can reduce it to the correct scale and print it. BTW the U-1252 serial number can stay on my panel as that is my paint scheme.

    best regards

    John

  17. #392
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    I thought I should post an update as its been a while, things are moving forward albeit at a slow pace due to 'other' commitments getting in the way [>:].
    Busy terminating and soldering loads of connections on all the battery leads, charging connections etc - spent most of tonight terminating all the servo tails for connection to the Powerbox.

    One tricky recent job has been sorting out the main tank stopper, I re-used the skygate stopper on the new tank, but wanted to use the big bore fittings that the JMP UAT came with, the skygate filler cap has two fittings and two holes in it - I only needed one! I almost got a new cap machined but then decided to file out the holes so they met as one big hole, this was just about the right size for the brass threaded fitting supplied with the JMP kit, so a good splattering of Aeropoxy and we had a fitting with the big bore exit.

    HELP is now needed, I require a length of 3/16 ID Tygon fuel tubing to connect the tank to the UAT, and to run a clunk inside the tank so overall around 2.5-3 feet in length should do, does anyone have some they are willing to sell or know of a place where I can order small quantities without paying through the nose?

    Appreciate any help.

    marcs

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  18. #393

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marc,

    I have what you need. If you can't find anything closer, let me know and I'll post this off to you.

    David S

  19. #394
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    David, many thanks, just PM'd

    marcs

  20. #395
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    ORIGINAL: marc s

    I thought I should post an update as its been a while, things are moving forward albeit at a slow pace due to 'other' commitments getting in the way [>:].
    Busy terminating and soldering loads of connections on all the battery leads, charging connections etc - spent most of tonight terminating all the servo tails for connection to the Powerbox.

    One tricky recent job has been sorting out the main tank stopper, I re-used the skygate stopper on the new tank, but wanted to use the big bore fittings that the JMP UAT came with, the skygate filler cap has two fittings and two holes in it - I only needed one! I almost got a new cap machined but then decided to file out the holes so they met as one big hole, this was just about the right size for the brass threaded fitting supplied with the JMP kit, so a good splattering of Aeropoxy and we had a fitting with the big bore exit.

    HELP is now needed, I require a length of 3/16 ID Tygon fuel tubing to connect the tank to the UAT, and to run a clunk inside the tank so overall around 2.5-3 feet in length should do, does anyone have some they are willing to sell or know of a place where I can order small quantities without paying through the nose?

    Appreciate any help.

    marcs

    You don't have a hobby shop in the UK that sells Tygon by the foot or metre? Al's probably stocks the stuff. Its not expensive.
    The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the sweet taste of low price is forgotten.

  21. #396
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Andy,

    Please, do you not think I have already asked Ali and others?
    Unfortunately unless you want to order a fairly large quantity this large bore stuff is not readily available over here, be good if it were.

    marcs

  22. #397
    jetpilot's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    I picked up a bunch from Tom at JMP. I have some if you need some. Free of charge for you.
    Scott
    Scott Marr

  23. #398
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marc,

    Got just under 4 metres of the stuff that I have had for about 3 years, brought by mistake. Its yours FOC.

    Geoff.

  24. #399
    David Gladwin's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    If anyone would like to copy the scale stab covers and tracks for this machine I can send templates when I get back to Sydney in September. The hard work, the geometry is done, and it can easily be done as a retrofit. It will work only if the stab mount is reversed as described earlier.

    If you woul like the templates please pm me.

    regards,

    David G.

  25. #400
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Hello everybody,

    on my SG Hawk the last task left before final body work and painting is the aileron control. I intentionaly left it as last work because I didn't figure out yet how to install the fairing for the control bar. My creativity reached its limit. Can anyone of you Hawk builders show me the solution adopted? Is the fairing glued to the wing (how to insert the servo?), or is it fixed with 2 screws (how?) or what else did you do?

    Thanks for your support,

    Bruno



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