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  1. #451
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Scarey thought - thinking alike way to often!

  2. #452
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    David,

    The maths route is all well and good, however taking into consideration I could hardly hold a pencil let alone do maths in the cold, using good old gravity seems a much safer route for me

    marcs

  3. #453
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Tonight sorted the new location for the ECU battery.

    Keeping it close to the ECU, subject to Jetcat confirming the wiring option on the IO switch, I made a bridge plate which uses the top four bolt fixings for the nose section to the main fuselage section for fixing, removed excess material and milled four slots to pass velcro around the battery in two places to secure. This sits only a few inches from the ECU, is easy to get to as you only need remove the rear cockpit floor panel, and keeps its location as far back for C of G purposes.

    Tomorrow will tackle the tail ballast mounting.

    marcs

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  4. #454
    JRSmith's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marvelous work Marc. Hats off to you my friend![sm=thumbup.gif]
    Smith Precision Aircraft LLC
    Custom Built Kits and Assembled ARFs
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    www.smithprecisionaircraft.com

  5. #455
    David Gladwin's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marc,

    You have your remote antenna in an interesting position, on the tank, not good ! Why?

    On the Weatronic system one can monitor RSSI (signal strength) on the receiver page for each antenna. If you place a hand (mostly water) between a Rx aerial and the tx aerials one can observe a SIGNIFICANT decrease in RSSI (from about -19 dBm to about -40 dBm, and thats indoors with lots of signal bouncing around) I would suggest that proves beyond doubt that antenna location IS important, to obtain the best RF link. The fuel in the tank will almost certainly act as an RF shield, and whilst it may not be too bad, it certainly isnt going to help in certain orientations and if operating at longish range.

    On my little L39, I placed a remote antenna in the wing well clear of the equipment in the fuselage, it always records the lowest number of fades. In the wing (or in the fin top) of your Hawk may be a better place for that remote if you really want the strongest RF link.

    That said, it would be very interesting to see the fade numbers recorded on that remote, compared with the other 3, when you do the ground range checks. Please let is know.

    Regards,

    David.

  6. #456

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Guys Ive just started a Tomahawk Hawk build.

    I am building it a little heavier than standard including Marc's bypass, ducts and tanks. Keen to keep an eye on CG too.

    Planning to fit a working scale chute and have already added a fair bit of strengthening around the fin post. I was having some early thoughts about elevator servos down the rear, sitting high in the space between the rudder post and the stab. Anyone seen anyone doing this or have any thoughts? May well be some geometry problems.

    Thanks.

  7. #457
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    A while ago whilst making all the wing fences from FR4 I had all the little aerials done too, with the bases as well - yesterday fitted them to the belly area, added small screws to replicate the FS. The main antenna was made removable and is secured with two servo screws which are accessible inside the fuselage.
    Added the vac formed 'bulges' at the rear.
    Fitted two rails either side of the rear section to mount the ballast plate to, this screws to the rails and has two M3 captive nuts fitted to the bottom. I have made a template and will cut some roofing flashing into plates which can be placed on the ballast plate and screwed down with 2 x M3 bolts. This allows easy adjustment of CofG on site.

    Been re-doing the wiring to change the location of batteries, and ECU connection.

    Finally used the roof sling to get this puppy on her back - works good

    marcs

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  8. #458
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Finally the hawk is ready for its coat of paint, Ali is collecting it shortly and taking it straight to the painters for application of the Saudi Air Display Team colours.
    We re-checked the C of G yesterday early morning so I had time to finish the last few things, moving the packs back reduced the tail weight added from 980g to 600g to balance on the SG suggested 305mm balance point. Ali feels this point is conservative so maybe after flying more weight can be removed. Nonetheless due to the system to add weight the option to adjust at the field is a job that takes a few minutes, so pleased with how this went.

    I hope to post some pictures when she is painted.

    I also really appreciate all the comments and support given along this build marathon, cheers to all those who have inspired me, it has been a big task but I am very happy with the final outcome and look forward to seeing what differences the fully ducted system makes to its flying pleasures.......

    marcs

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  9. #459

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Marc,

    Congratulations on a truly awesome build! I, for one, have really enjoyed and benefited from the sharing of your expertise and building skills on this thread. My SG Hawk, utilizing your bypass system, has been finished for a few weeks now, just haven't yet had the time to flight test, though I'm certain it will be great! Since I also upgraded the turbine size from 36lbs to 52lbs thrust, I won't really be able to give a true comparison to the advantages of the bypass system. But I did use several of your ideas in the rebuild of my Hawk which really improved on the previous set up. Thank you!

    I look forward to any & all future builds you choose to share with us, as I am certain there will be much to learn!

    David S

  10. #460
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    David, appreciate the comments and feedback.
    From a personal point of view how did the bypass conversion go? Were there any issues I should know about for future reference or indeed for others who might be planning to instal the kit?
    Finally do you have any pictures of your conversion, if its easier just email them to me as it would be good to have some for the records.

    Cheers
    marcs

  11. #461
    Alex48's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Nice one Marc look forward to seeing it in paint! I really enjoyed watching this come together thanks for taking the time to post your progress

    Good luck with your next few projects....

    Cheers, Alex

  12. #462
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Thanks Marc,
    This helped us big time on my new Hawk that my buddy Franco is almost done building. Thanks again for the parts you supplied!
    Scott
    Scott Marr

  13. #463
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Cheers Alex, and Scott glad its helped.

    marcs

  14. #464
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Back again! not with a completed and painted Hawk but an update/modification.

    I visited the painters the other weekend and helped with a few areas of dismantleing to make the paint process easier, whilst there I was not happy with the fit of the wheels through into the opening in the fuselage, and decided to take both wings back home with me to modify the alignment slightly. Fortunately the painter had plenty to keep him busy while I worked to adjust the main legs and wheel alignment.

    During the visit to the paint shop I was asked if it was possible to leave the doors off the gear leg so that the inside of the doors could be painted before fitting (usually glued to the gear leg cover). It was not ideal to leave them off as this would mean another 350 mile round trip after the trip I have to make to return the wings - there had to be a solution to making them removable.

    This is what I did:

    First job was to remove the exisiting doors that had been stuck on as the alignment changes would result in the doors being out of position, careful removal left the doors with Aeropoxy stuck fast to them. First I adjusted the legs, which was just about possible without any major surgery - phew.
    Now to the doors, I wanted the mounting to be simple, and if possible without any unsightly items sticking out here and there, as the build is not a scale rendition some creative solutions were possible. First I mounted the gear in its new place without the doors, laid a piece of clear plastic over the place where the doors would fit and marked the centreline of the gear leg cover, I transferred this to the door and marked a centimeter either side of the centre line. Using my little Proxxon milling machine I slowly cut the inner panel of the door into a rectangular cut-out, this also had the desired result of removing the Aeropoxy that had remained stuck to the gear doors.

    I had to increase the opening bit by bit until the door fitted over the gear leg cover and was resting just below the wing surface.

    I experimented with a few ideas for a mounting bracket, and finally decided on 'L' shaped aluminium. The plan was to glue this to the inside of the door (inside the rebate cut from the inner skin) and then mount the flange to the gear leg cover. The issue with this is the gear leg cover is a complex shape and getting a bracket to sit on it and screw in place was not simple. I decided to make two brackets which would be stuck to the gear leg cover, these would provide material into which screws could be fitted through the aluminium bracket to hold the door in place.

    To make the brackets I first covered the gear leg covers with some cling film, then stuck the aluminium L channel which was cut to length to fit into the rebate in the door with some double sided tape (temporary fix), I then stuck some brown parcel tape into the L shape.

    Next I mixed up some car filler and dolloped a big lump into the aluminium channel, I then offered the door up to the gear leg and pushed it into place so the door was flush with the wing skin and the gaps were all consistent, then waited 30 mins to let the filler harden.

    Once dry I popped the gear door off, the clingfilm does not stick to filler and the brown tape does the same job too. What I had then was a large fillet of hard filler that had the gear leg cover profile shaped into it. Next I made two holes through the aluminium into the filler where I wanted the fixing points, then I cut two sections from the filler fillet that had the holes in then into two 'brackets', about 1cm wide - these were my mounting hard points.

    Next job was to shape the aluminium channel to match the gear door inner panel shape to neaten things up, and then glued it to the door. Once dry I screwed the two filler brackets to the aluminium where the holes were (which kept alignment right) scuffed the gear leg cover in the places where the brackets will fix, applied some epoxy to the brackets and dropped the door, complete with brackets into place. As the alignment was already achieve the brackets located perfectly on the gear leg cover, the door was taped in place flush with the wing skin and the whole lot left to dry.

    After this the gear leg was opened up, the door swung with it into the open position. I removed the two screws fixing the door cover to the leg and added a bead of epoxy around the two brackets to complete the fix to the gear leg covers.

    Final job was to provide a fixing on the other side of the gear leg cover, this would keep the whole door very secure. I had already drilled through the gear leg cover, using one of the moulded tabs which stick out, so I re-used this again. I placed a drill through the hole already drilled in the gear leg cover and made a hole in the door inner skin to match this alignment. I opened this hole out big enough to accept a small M3 threaded brass insert. I screwed in a length of stainless M3 studding and glued it into the insert.

    Inserting the M3 studding complete with brass insert into the hole in the gear leg cover I filled the hole in the door to accept the brass insert with epoxy and re-fitted the gear door to the leg, once the screws were done up I pushed the brass insert into the hole in the door via the M3 studding which was fitted to it. I left this to dry.

    Today will remove the door, marking the point where to trim the M3 studding to allow a nut to be fitted. I will cut a small sleeve to slide over the M3 studding which will act as a spacer, this then will keep the door the correct distance from the gear leg cover and allow the nut to be tightened without altering the alignment.

    If this all works nice, door two today Hope the explanation above is readable, its a lot to explain, the pictures should help a little though.

    marcs

  15. #465
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Few more...

    marcs

  16. #466
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Awesome thread and pics guys! Been a real help for me. I am building just the cockpit for a friend but dont have and instructions so have been going off photos. I have however, got stuck with the positioning of the screen between the front and rear cockpit, and the rear instrument panel cover. Could someone please post pics of this area? Much appreciated. Brett.
    CORSAIR Brotherhood # 76 - Also known as Toast in other forums...

  17. #467
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Brett unfortunately the picture disc from Skygate which comes with the kit is back with the owner, I believe there is a picture on this which shows the location of the screen divider. Maybe one of the others who owns the kit (I just build) can help here.

    marcs

  18. #468
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Hello ,

    that was also my problem.

    I have just located from the Explosive lines on the glas. That is a decalset you can sticker it on the glas.
    If you dont have it , you can order it from www.tailormadedecals.com



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  19. #469
    stoat's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    THats a good idea! I have the decals here so will measure them and see if that helps. Any other photos anyone has will also help.

    Does anyone know where to download the instruction manual? Had a good search through Skygate website. Great model but crap website. Why oh why do people publish incomplete websites?

    Cheers
    Brett
    CORSAIR Brotherhood # 76 - Also known as Toast in other forums...

  20. #470

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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Hi Brett,

    I've measured this on the real Swiss aircraft.
    Imagine where the divider starts at the canopy side frame, then draw a line perpendicular until where the canopy and sidewall meet.
    The divider is at 770 mm (from the front) or at 32,3% of the total length where canopy side frame and aircraft sidewall meet.
    Tilt backwards is exactley 45 degrees w.r.t. canopy side frame.

    However, I'm building the Tomahawk-Design (see page http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93..._8/key_/tm.htm) and don't know if the SG-version is accurate in this respect. You may have to check and adjust according to the MDC-cord decals on the canopy as suggested by Butler-campers.

    P.s.: note the title of this thread...this is THE manual (may thanks Marc!).

    Regards,

    Remco45
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  21. #471
    Ali's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    *Update*
    This model build has taken allot longer than any of us expected. Marc, when he took the build on, and myself when I commissioned it. Part of the reason I guess is that Marc has always built for me, more as a hobby than a profession. He has a full time job that means that like most of us, the only time he finds to indulge in this hobby is after a day at the office, or a weekend which means time away from his family ( and I thought I had an understanding wife)
    Another reason, was the sheer complexity of the build. When I look at the model now, and see all of the parts that are non standard to what comes with the kit, I appreciate the effort that Marc has put into making, what I think, is the best Skygate Hawk that I have seen to date.
    One major downside to this, was that the delivery date that I projected to the customer that ordered this model slipped. Slipped is probably about as big an understatement as can be. it was never my intention ( or Marcs, or Ray the painters) for it to take so long, but short of going at it full time, I really cant see what more could have been done to have speeded it up. At first the customer was very understanding of the delay, but as time went on, he became more and more disgruntled with having to wait ( we all know what its like to have to wait for a new toy)
    As I said.. Pi$$ing a customer off is the last thing that I wanted to do, so when I drove down to Marc's to collect the model, and take it to the painters, I offered the customer a full refund, if he was at all unhappy with the model, or the delay. Long story short.. After a delay at the painters, he decided to go for that option, funds were wired and the model became mine again. Not a good day at the office that one, but I guess it had to be done. The good news is, that now the model is complete, I am really glad that it worked out the way it did. I collected the model from the painters a few weeks ago, and Marc was good enough to free up a few days to com and stay at my house so we could re rig the model and set it up. In the end we managed to do, what I thought was sure to take two days in just 3/4's of a day. A testimony to Marcs meticulous build was that the model ( Even after spending months at paint) just slotted back together and everything just worked... First time, every time.
    Even more impressive was how gorgeous the model looked. I will let the pictures to the rest of the talking..
    Al's Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Airworld, BVM, Jet Cat, Skymaster, Rc Jet Centre,pull over, Tomahawk, C-ARF, Jet-Teng,Kingtech

  22. #472
    Ali's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    I am only sad that we didn't have any sunshine when we took the pics, as the colour and the finish really come to life when the suns out!

    Al's Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Airworld, BVM, Jet Cat, Skymaster, Rc Jet Centre,pull over, Tomahawk, C-ARF, Jet-Teng,Kingtech

  23. #473
    Ali's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Al's Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Airworld, BVM, Jet Cat, Skymaster, Rc Jet Centre,pull over, Tomahawk, C-ARF, Jet-Teng,Kingtech

  24. #474
    Ali's Avatar
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)

    Al's Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Airworld, BVM, Jet Cat, Skymaster, Rc Jet Centre,pull over, Tomahawk, C-ARF, Jet-Teng,Kingtech

  25. #475
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    RE: Skygate Hawk - build (virtual manual)


    Al's Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Airworld, BVM, Jet Cat, Skymaster, Rc Jet Centre,pull over, Tomahawk, C-ARF, Jet-Teng,Kingtech


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