Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
05-06-2012, 02:12 PM
#453
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Some work on the chute door hinges.
Using Marc's glass sheet - slotted and pinned with a small piece on carbon rod. Not keen on dropping the chute mid flight.
Using Marc's glass sheet - slotted and pinned with a small piece on carbon rod. Not keen on dropping the chute mid flight.
05-07-2012, 06:22 AM
#454
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
ORIGINAL: Remco45
@ schroedm: thanks Mark, but I've also made some mistakes where others didn't, sorry.
Collins ADF antenna
The white ADF antenna is so thin and light that it needs either some strenghtening or has to be made removable.
If the fuse is laid down on the ground, the antenna would be crusehd.
This one is made removable too, using Velcro.
The antenna needs six holes.
Edit: typo's
@ schroedm: thanks Mark, but I've also made some mistakes where others didn't, sorry.
Collins ADF antenna
The white ADF antenna is so thin and light that it needs either some strenghtening or has to be made removable.
If the fuse is laid down on the ground, the antenna would be crusehd.
This one is made removable too, using Velcro.
The antenna needs six holes.
Edit: typo's
EDIT: got a mail from tobba, it's placed under the front section of the fuse, it's even clearly marked in the surface
(the antenna needs to be of a much less height than supplied, I have cut mine to about 4 mm)
05-09-2012, 12:36 PM
#456
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Carsten - good to hear the shots helped for the antenna position. Rather obvious now I see the bottom of the fuse... but had me searching.
Crazy today, will load images to FTP and send details tomorrow.
Nearly finished the chute door and detail tonight. Rivets to go on the door, another layer to the centre of the lip and finished.
(problem loading images... will try again later...)
Crazy today, will load images to FTP and send details tomorrow.
Nearly finished the chute door and detail tonight. Rivets to go on the door, another layer to the centre of the lip and finished.
(problem loading images... will try again later...)
05-09-2012, 12:59 PM
#457
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
No worries Craig 
I have been playing with front doors and nose light today.
Looking forward to the pictures of the chute, I also got the parts for that, but could use some good pictures [8D]
I have been playing with front doors and nose light today.
Looking forward to the pictures of the chute, I also got the parts for that, but could use some good pictures [8D]
05-10-2012, 09:07 PM
#460
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Nicloas,
I think you can have it in a Touran, if I split the fuse, I can have all of it in my BMW X5 (which does not have much room in the back without the back seats)
It is 6 x M4 screws (unbraco), and I think that most people place the equipment in the aft part of the fuse, just in front of the turbine
05-13-2012, 03:25 AM
#461
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
A few rivets and some primer. A little more detail on the lip and about to glue in chute tub and setup. Moving on to finishing the hatch and vents.
05-22-2012, 06:24 AM
#462
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Very nice Craig!
I had previously thought of using the Firgelli actuators for the main gear doors, but I'm having second thoughts....
If I install actuators, it is not possible to open the doors "by hand", I will have to powerup the plane/transmitter to open/close the doors.
I might end up using servos instead, but at the same time, I want the doors to stay closed during flight !
I was thinking of using some 15 Kg/cm digitals (same data approx as JR 8511). I know that some of you have had stronger servos that would open up in flight.
However, if I plan the horns so that the servohorn i vertical (pointing away from the door) when the door is closed, I can't imagine that the door can open in flight ????
Any thoughts before I start the work... ?
I had previously thought of using the Firgelli actuators for the main gear doors, but I'm having second thoughts....
If I install actuators, it is not possible to open the doors "by hand", I will have to powerup the plane/transmitter to open/close the doors.
I might end up using servos instead, but at the same time, I want the doors to stay closed during flight !
I was thinking of using some 15 Kg/cm digitals (same data approx as JR 8511). I know that some of you have had stronger servos that would open up in flight.
However, if I plan the horns so that the servohorn i vertical (pointing away from the door) when the door is closed, I can't imagine that the door can open in flight ????
Any thoughts before I start the work... ?
05-22-2012, 06:33 AM
#463
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Carsten,
I'm sure Scott will chime in but don't use anything less than an 8711!!! (yep, the price of this plane just spirals upwards!!). He had problems with his doors blowing open, tried various things, geometry, servos, actuators etc and found 8711s sorted the problem!
Cheers,
Mark
I'm sure Scott will chime in but don't use anything less than an 8711!!! (yep, the price of this plane just spirals upwards!!). He had problems with his doors blowing open, tried various things, geometry, servos, actuators etc and found 8711s sorted the problem!
Cheers,
Mark
05-22-2012, 07:02 AM
#464
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
ORIGINAL: schroedm
.
yep, the price of this plane just spirals upwards!!
.
.
yep, the price of this plane just spirals upwards!!
.
][:'(]
[&:][:@] I have some MP80T (25 Kg brushless), think they will do the job then
I'm using a mix of 8911 and MP80T on the surfaces then....
05-22-2012, 11:32 AM
#465
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Use the 8711!!!!
make sure the geometry of arm is parallel with pushrod when closed and there will be no load on servo at all and they will stay closed!!!
Use really long servo arms to get proper throw!
If you use firgelli or other actuator, you are correct that you will not be able to open door unless you power up.
Scott
make sure the geometry of arm is parallel with pushrod when closed and there will be no load on servo at all and they will stay closed!!!
Use really long servo arms to get proper throw!
If you use firgelli or other actuator, you are correct that you will not be able to open door unless you power up.
Scott
05-22-2012, 12:07 PM
#470
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Thanks Scott!
I'm still waiting for my set of retracts, they were on backorder when I picked the plane up, should be with me in a week or so (fingers crossed...)
When they arrive, I can get on with the doors etc
I'm still waiting for my set of retracts, they were on backorder when I picked the plane up, should be with me in a week or so (fingers crossed...)
When they arrive, I can get on with the doors etc
05-22-2012, 12:43 PM
#473
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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Carsten I'm using 8711's on my main doors mounted with GBR Jet's mounts sitting flat with 1.5" arms.
Will take a shot of mine this evening.
Will take a shot of mine this evening.
05-22-2012, 12:50 PM
#474
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Ive installed 3 now and they all have a tendancy to lean down forward. Pay careful attention and make sure after you install that the tank is level. Weve had to go back and fix later. The tank is very wide and does not have a baffle so if the tank leans forward it is possible to suck air easily even if you still have fair amount of fuel. since the tank is wide and leans forward it get really shallow near clunk, and you will suck air. We had two flame outs until we fixed. There is no sump or low spot on tank. Make sure to get tank level and might consider using a baffle or auxillary tank as well. maybe even have tank lean back a bit.
I expressed concerns about this to Ali and he said he is using two of these tanks in a 262. surely not leaning though. But not sure if He is flying inverted, slow rolling and four pointing with 262, but then again its Ali!!!
Just something to look out for!
Also considering using 2 or 3 valves for gear. I know this sounds rediculous, but trust me on this!
If you use a big motor replace the springs in struts or instal some .5 " to .75 " stops inside. The stock springs are marginal at best with even a small motor.
Use a throttle curve on P200. More power in middle.
use tons of expo!
Having second thought on full inlets and bypass. We have ours flying beautiful now without and worried they might change something like flying style or landing speed and could starve bigger motors.
I think of some more
Scott
I expressed concerns about this to Ali and he said he is using two of these tanks in a 262. surely not leaning though. But not sure if He is flying inverted, slow rolling and four pointing with 262, but then again its Ali!!!
Just something to look out for!
Also considering using 2 or 3 valves for gear. I know this sounds rediculous, but trust me on this!
If you use a big motor replace the springs in struts or instal some .5 " to .75 " stops inside. The stock springs are marginal at best with even a small motor.
Use a throttle curve on P200. More power in middle.
use tons of expo!
Having second thought on full inlets and bypass. We have ours flying beautiful now without and worried they might change something like flying style or landing speed and could starve bigger motors.
I think of some more
Scott
05-22-2012, 12:53 PM
#475
RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
Thanks for the info Scott!
Regarding the tank, do you have the connections pointing to the back of the plane or to the front (and are they in the end or on the top of the tank?) ?
Regarding the tank, do you have the connections pointing to the back of the plane or to the front (and are they in the end or on the top of the tank?) ?