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  1. #726

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    This is the Joe Grice technique for a seamless hatch. Used 2 layers of 6 oz cloth (try to criss cross the grains a little) carbon fiber cloth that is layered in with epoxy resin. Then framed (middle width of basswood where zona saw will cut through) the inside with 1 inch basswood (I think 3/16 inch ) after notching out the basswood where the offset hinges go. After the glue dries on the basswood then glued in the offset hinges.Then cut out hatch with zona saw and rest of work is some sanding , body filler and primer with more sanding. I used a detail for scale latch mechanism.

  2. #727

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    are you installing speedy air brakes in the hawk? with servo?

  3. #728

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I am not installing air brakes on my hawk

  4. #729

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Hi,

    How do You do for fix the landing gear vacuum thermo forming parts?

    Just use glue "edge to edge"?

    Which glue did You Use?


    Best Regards.


    Pierrot57

  5. #730

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I'm interested in the answers here too as I am pondering not using the strut covers at all and fabricating metal mounts to attach the doors to the struts.

    To answer your question initially I was planning to use cyno on the ABS covers then fill the legs with expanding foam or Hysol. Then no doubt a big clean up job and paint. IMO this is not a great feature of the kit and I have seen door fly off in the past - to then just glue the main gear doors to the ABS strut covers seems pretty clumsy.

    Has anyone had a good experience with these parts? Any input would be appreciated.

  6. #731
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Guys I had issues when I did the SG Hawk and suspect the same might be the case with the TH Hawk.

    This is what I did.........

    1 - As the mouldings for each leg were supplied in two halves the first job was th echeck they were Ok and any excess material removed.
    2 - The edges where the halves join were so bad that they hardly aligned so I tidied up the edges as best possible, keyed them and taped the halves together to hold them in the right position.
    3 - With a syringe I filled the edges and all the gaps with aeropoxy (does not run or sag) and let them cure.
    4 - Once dry I spent hours sanding the joins until they were as good as I could get them, a little filler was also used.
    5 - Primed each cover assembly and then once dry I ran each through a band saw which gave me a proper clean straight edge from which to work the final fix from.
    6 - After test fitting as adjusting I marked a few locations which were close fitting on the leg to cover and scuffed the areas on the leg.
    7 - Mixed up some car body filler and then applied blobs of this in the leg in the places keyed.
    8 - Placed the cover over the legs, squeezing the car body filler onto the inside of the covers - adjust position and taped the covers in place until the filler has dried (this takes a few minutes only).
    9 - Once dry I wicked cyano into the joints and once dry lightly sanded them and re-primed the sanded areas.

    Job done and many hours passed - good luck.

    Few pictures attached of the original mouldings and the joined primed covers prior to running through the band saw.

    marcs


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  7. #732

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Thanks Marc - yes I had a good read of your process which looked great. Big difference with the Tomahawk is that the strut covers are ABS. They are therefore a little tidier and have a lip moulded which maybe should make this a little simpler. If I bother with the covers at all I will look to add some light glass cloth to the inside for some strength and a good gluing surface for the Hysol.

    Cheers for this.

  8. #733

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I like the car filler idea - nice one.

  9. #734

    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Guys,
    I (think) I need help...
    When I look at my wings, something is wrong, at least thats what I think....

    The flaps when fully "up" sits almost perfect with the lower skin of the wing, so guess they are ok (they were installed/hinged at Tomahawk).
    However, when the flaps are "up", and the ailerons are level with the flaps, the ailerons looks like they point a lot "down" when looking at the tips.
    On the other hand, when I position the ailerons so they look "alright" at the tips, they are almost 10mm (1/2") above the flaps...
    So, what is right, trim the aileron so they look right at the edge, or trim so they are flush with the flaps, or maybe 50/50 ??

    Picture 1: Flaps in "up" psoition
    Picture 2: Flaps at tip when level with flaps
    Picture 3: Ailerons when they look "ok and level" at the tip
    Picture 4: Offset between aileron and flaps when aileron are positioned like picture 3

    Or, do I simply fly with the ailerons flush with the flaps, and raise ailerons (wash out) when deploying flaps....?

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    Carsten Groen

  10. #735
    Colin Gontier's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Carsten - you need help for sure - but thats another story

    I have just been through this dilemma on my Skygate Hawk which is similar. I would normally disregard lining up the ailerons with the flaps and just make sure they follow the wing in the neutral position however I read somewhere about someone feeling the aircraft was a little pitchy when set up this way.

    I went for having the ailerons in line with the flap (so a slight droop - not as much as 10mm though - that sounds a lot), and the aircraft feels good to me. Only one flight so far though... and only of course my most humble opinion [8D]

    regards

    Colin

    www.boomerang-jets.com
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  11. #736

    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    ORIGINAL: Colin Gontier

    Carsten - you need help for sure - but thats another story
    .
    I read you loud and clear
    Anyway, sounds reasonably the answer you give, only I would be afraid that the "aileron down" would be dangerous with regards to tipstall etc ??

    PS: wheres my Tshirt
    Carsten Groen

  12. #737
    Colin Gontier's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I agree and can see what you're saying but in practice it seems to work for me..... so far !

    Oh yeah the shirt - thanks for reminding me - I will put it in with the kit.

    How long before you get to fly the Hawk?

    regards

    Colin
    www.boomerang-jets.com
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  13. #738
    jetpilot's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    All of my Hawks ailerons match the flaps. Never a stall ever. Always use flaps for takeoff and landing no matter how windy. Strong headwind, just more power.
    Scott
    Scott Marr

  14. #739

    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Thanks Scott for info!
    Do you by any chance have a picture where I can see how much "drop" there is on you ailerons when the are flush with the flaps ?

    Colin, it has already flow, however due to my silly mistake (wayyyy to slow on landing!) it got a bent nose and a crack at one of the wings
    All is fixed now, and it's sitting here looking nice, I just want to maximize my chances of success the next time
    Carsten Groen

  15. #740
    butler-campers's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Carsten it was on my hawk exactly the same, a lot of down aileron .
    In the begining i was thinking it was wrong, but i have seen a lot of TH hawks with the same aileron position. And the fly all verry well.
    I think the wing has a little washout on the tip.
    So no worry.

    RG Maikel Sorry for my bad englisch, but i hope you know what i mean

  16. #741

    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Thanks Maikel!
    Make me even more relaxed now, it just looked scary to me with all that aileron "down"... I will see if I can set it just a tad up so it doesn't point that much down. I'll get back once I have flown it again

    PS: your english is no problem! (you should hear my Dutch )
    Carsten Groen

  17. #742

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I am choosing the location of the equipament on my Hawk.., can anyone help me with the CG... The Hawk will need weight on the nose usually? (using jetcat P200)

  18. #743

    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Heraldo,
    I have no extra weight in mine (also P200SX), I have the batteries for the receiver in the middle of the front fuse, turbine and light battery approx between the wheel openings
    (RX batteries each 2S/5000mAH LiPo)

    (I would have included a picture if RCU didn't mess up )
    Carsten Groen

  19. #744

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Hi Heraldo,

    I agree with Carsten - I would be careful having a lot of gear to far forward. I have just finished a refit on a SG Hawk and we ended up move a lot of the gear backwards. I also remember in Marc S' Skygate Hawk build on RCU he ended up having to do a big retro fit sliding batteries etc a long way back.

    I am working on having most of my batteries just forward of the fuse join at this stage. I think Carsten is right having batteries in between the wheel wells but I have a smoke tank setup there at this stage.

    All the best.

    Cheers, T

  20. #745
    jetpilot's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    If built without any significant modifications the Hawk should be on CG. My batteries are right in front of wing tube and right behind wing tube.
    try not to get equipment too far forward.
    Scott
    Scott Marr

  21. #746

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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    I will install rear parachute and rear speedy brake.. this probably will increase the weight on back...

  22. #747
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    and then you can ask yourself why the elevator mecanism is made how it is in SG and TH hawks. seems kinda stupid, its not like there issent any room in the back
    Kasper H
    JetCat P300RX 1:5,5 F-16 - Better to have too much power and not need it, than need it and not have it

  23. #748
    marc s's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Kasper, having built a SG Hawk a few years back I totally agree that the system used is not really ideal but here is one thought....

    A friend told me the other day he saw a jet lost following a pipe failure, now thats a pretty tough deal anyway, and bringing a jet into land is not going to be easy but he had rear mounted servos driving his elevators - pipe burnt, servo wires fried and not only did he have a pipe failure but lost elevators too and the outcome was as you would suspect []

    So maybe having servos away from the rear end could help save a jet - just a thought.

    marcs

  24. #749
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    yeah that would help

    but it seem that the system was made because they fear getting a tail heavy plane.

    a guy told me, when the skygate hawk was new, before it was named skygate, the used 3 liters og kerosine in the nose to keep it balanced, so maybe in the older days it was tail heavy? - and today with herex sandwich, they just keep the old well known system?
    Kasper H
    JetCat P300RX 1:5,5 F-16 - Better to have too much power and not need it, than need it and not have it

  25. #750
    schroedm's Avatar
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    RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

    Marc,

    There you go!!! The New GBRJet Upgraded Hawk Direct Elevator setup.

    Few CNC'd formers and you're done. Pop over and take some measurements - I'd buy one! [8D]



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