Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5
01-29-2015, 03:33 PM
#1126
Remco, i know .. but i love the Hawk with Missile and tanks in the wings.. i will do that but i can remove the tanks and get the jet more scale,
But i need some pictures of the external tanks from any Hawk.. so i can paint it scale... anybody can help?
But i need some pictures of the external tanks from any Hawk.. so i can paint it scale... anybody can help?
01-30-2015, 05:43 AM
#1127
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nettetal, GERMANY
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Little kid's in Cockpit ...
Hello together, i also have a Tomahawk BAe but the cockpit is empty because i dont like the to little doll in there. I am searching a lot for a one who fits, but unsuccessfull.
As far i know Tomahawk sells are from Axel Pfannmueller, i ask for some data of the 1:3,5 ... the sitting high is 24cm plus 3cm for the helmet, shoulder width is12cm. Too small in my eyes
Where did you get your "kids" from ?
Did anybody has found a better sized ?
Some photos to see what i mean:
and the original, big head at top of seat
Hello together, i also have a Tomahawk BAe but the cockpit is empty because i dont like the to little doll in there. I am searching a lot for a one who fits, but unsuccessfull.
As far i know Tomahawk sells are from Axel Pfannmueller, i ask for some data of the 1:3,5 ... the sitting high is 24cm plus 3cm for the helmet, shoulder width is12cm. Too small in my eyes
Where did you get your "kids" from ?
Did anybody has found a better sized ?
Some photos to see what i mean:
and the original, big head at top of seat
Last edited by Thomas L; 01-30-2015 at 05:48 AM.
01-30-2015, 09:20 AM
#1130
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nettetal, GERMANY
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@roydefiant: fits from height, but looks a Little to small to me. They are from Axels / Tomahawk ?
@heraldoboldrin: yes, tailored is a good choice, but there i only find 1:3 or 1:4 of size, 310mm high is to much i think ? on there website the biggest Jet-Pilot is 1:4. Wich scale you ordered ?
@heraldoboldrin: yes, tailored is a good choice, but there i only find 1:3 or 1:4 of size, 310mm high is to much i think ? on there website the biggest Jet-Pilot is 1:4. Wich scale you ordered ?
02-02-2015, 07:56 PM
#1134
Guys i need some tips..
where you usually use the batteries to balance the hawk?
what is the best CG?
are you using flap with 47mm down or going to 75mm for short landings?
where you usually use the batteries to balance the hawk?
what is the best CG?
are you using flap with 47mm down or going to 75mm for short landings?
02-03-2015, 06:39 PM
#1138
uys i need some tips..
where you usually use the batteries to balance the hawk?
what is the best CG?
are you using flap with 47mm down or going to 75mm for short landings?
where you usually use the batteries to balance the hawk?
what is the best CG?
are you using flap with 47mm down or going to 75mm for short landings?
02-04-2015, 04:38 PM
#1139
I have a hatch in the front which I can access everything I need to fly or charge. Hence mine is nose heavy. My batteries are in front of the aluminum tube and I still had to add a small amount of lead in the tail to balance. My field I fly at is plenty long so I do not use the 75mm flap setting.
02-05-2015, 10:29 AM
#1143
Thread Starter
Remco45's build continued - Wing fences and Vortex generators
After a longer than planned break, it took me a few days to sort things out.
Started with the wing fences and vortex generators.
I've found a drawing on the internet and a Hawk engineer was so kind to provide another drawing (which I cannot post) and I've combined all the required info.
All dimensions are normally in mm unless otherwise stated. A station is just a distance in mm from a reference line.
Note that the Original ABS parts are too high and too long.
And as Marc S stated, too soft so made the fences from fiberglass plate
Decided to install them by first glueing the lip on the wing. This provides a nice surface area to glue them against.
Note that the lip is on the outward side of the fence.
As stated before, the supplied vortex generators have the wrong shape and are not sufficiently offset, only about 4 degrees.
They should be 10 degrees trailing edge out with the lip on the inside (towards the fuselage).
Made the vortex generators from brass L-angle 5 x 5 x 0,6 mm (Albion Alloys Precision Metals).
Just like on the real aircraft, these are glued on top of the skin, so no need to drill any holes.
After a longer than planned break, it took me a few days to sort things out.
Started with the wing fences and vortex generators.
I've found a drawing on the internet and a Hawk engineer was so kind to provide another drawing (which I cannot post) and I've combined all the required info.
All dimensions are normally in mm unless otherwise stated. A station is just a distance in mm from a reference line.
Note that the Original ABS parts are too high and too long.
And as Marc S stated, too soft so made the fences from fiberglass plate
Decided to install them by first glueing the lip on the wing. This provides a nice surface area to glue them against.
Note that the lip is on the outward side of the fence.
As stated before, the supplied vortex generators have the wrong shape and are not sufficiently offset, only about 4 degrees.
They should be 10 degrees trailing edge out with the lip on the inside (towards the fuselage).
Made the vortex generators from brass L-angle 5 x 5 x 0,6 mm (Albion Alloys Precision Metals).
Just like on the real aircraft, these are glued on top of the skin, so no need to drill any holes.
02-09-2015, 10:49 AM
#1145
Thread Starter
Main landing gear - small door lever position
The small door is actuated via a lever which consists of a spring and two ball bearing joints.
On the ABS door, the location of the attachment is pre-indicated by Tomahawk-Design.
Just as Marc S, I've made them from fiberglass plate and used his method to determine the hinge position, see previous posts in this thread.
To determine the location for the small door lever on the gear leg, I had to draw two semi-circles on the gear leg: one with the door fully open and gear extended.
The other when the gear is retracted and the door is fully closed.
The intersection should -theoretically- provide the correct position.
Easy part is when the door is open, used a pen to draw the sem-circle on the gear leg as shown on the first picture.
With the door closed, access is limited, so I used a dentist hook, see second picture.
Problem is that I couldn't ssee when the hook was exactly at a 90 degree angle aiming into the leg, so some trial and error was anticipated before I could start drilling.
And indeed, the first intersection was not correct. With the door open again, the spring proved too long.
Shortened the spring about 3 mm and repeated the two semi-circles.
Third time Lucky and the third picture shows the intersection.
Some sanding was required to prevent the spring lever and screws from hitting the edge of the door opening and the frame.
Finally, glued a piece of scrap wood in to function as a stand off. Using a M2 bolt, I can adjust the stand off so that the small door is flush with the wing.
The small door is actuated via a lever which consists of a spring and two ball bearing joints.
On the ABS door, the location of the attachment is pre-indicated by Tomahawk-Design.
Just as Marc S, I've made them from fiberglass plate and used his method to determine the hinge position, see previous posts in this thread.
To determine the location for the small door lever on the gear leg, I had to draw two semi-circles on the gear leg: one with the door fully open and gear extended.
The other when the gear is retracted and the door is fully closed.
The intersection should -theoretically- provide the correct position.
Easy part is when the door is open, used a pen to draw the sem-circle on the gear leg as shown on the first picture.
With the door closed, access is limited, so I used a dentist hook, see second picture.
Problem is that I couldn't ssee when the hook was exactly at a 90 degree angle aiming into the leg, so some trial and error was anticipated before I could start drilling.
And indeed, the first intersection was not correct. With the door open again, the spring proved too long.
Shortened the spring about 3 mm and repeated the two semi-circles.
Third time Lucky and the third picture shows the intersection.
Some sanding was required to prevent the spring lever and screws from hitting the edge of the door opening and the frame.
Finally, glued a piece of scrap wood in to function as a stand off. Using a M2 bolt, I can adjust the stand off so that the small door is flush with the wing.
02-09-2015, 11:02 AM
#1147
Aahh. what an awesome idea with the spring. I spent hours dealing with this on Skygate Hawk to get the linkage correct. still not 100% happy as the back side sticks out about 2mm after the gear is closed. I will definitely re-do it after a few flights.
Behzad
Behzad
02-13-2015, 05:35 AM
#1148
Thread Starter
Strut door
Hi Marc, yes, it does...the landing gear is definitely the achillis heel of the kit and takes a lot of time to get it installed and to operate scale.
Actually, the way the pneumatic landing gear functioned was one of the reasons to set this project aside for a while.
About two years ago, a German friend warned me that there was something wrong with the welds of (only) the first kits, on of his main gear legs broke of during a normal landing.
I've send mine in and also requested the adjustable springs.
But it took more than six months and some persuasion before i got it back...without the adjustable springs...
To obtain scale extension and rectraction, I've thought about a mechanical leverage system using one big pneumatic cylinder in the fuselage, but this would require major changes in the structure.
An electrical operation looked appealing, but I do not like the (over) current shut-off system, hence the project on hold.
2014...Michael Franke informed me that he had send his gear to Behotec.
They can change the gear to electrical operation using a stepping motor which counts the number of steps/revolutions and uses overcurrent protection as a back-up.
Did it too and it functions really perfectly. The retraction time with a 3s LIPO is almost perfectly scale.
Decided to make the strut doors removable by making L-shaped aluminium brackets on the strut and in the doors.
Hi Marc, yes, it does...the landing gear is definitely the achillis heel of the kit and takes a lot of time to get it installed and to operate scale.
Actually, the way the pneumatic landing gear functioned was one of the reasons to set this project aside for a while.
About two years ago, a German friend warned me that there was something wrong with the welds of (only) the first kits, on of his main gear legs broke of during a normal landing.
I've send mine in and also requested the adjustable springs.
But it took more than six months and some persuasion before i got it back...without the adjustable springs...
To obtain scale extension and rectraction, I've thought about a mechanical leverage system using one big pneumatic cylinder in the fuselage, but this would require major changes in the structure.
An electrical operation looked appealing, but I do not like the (over) current shut-off system, hence the project on hold.
2014...Michael Franke informed me that he had send his gear to Behotec.
They can change the gear to electrical operation using a stepping motor which counts the number of steps/revolutions and uses overcurrent protection as a back-up.
Did it too and it functions really perfectly. The retraction time with a 3s LIPO is almost perfectly scale.
Decided to make the strut doors removable by making L-shaped aluminium brackets on the strut and in the doors.