sskianpour

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Hey All, my BVM F-100 is flite-metalled and ready but I need all the decals, stickers, transfers, etc...
Who do you suggest?

Aeroloft Dry Transfers? http://www.aeroloft.com/precision%20...0transfers.htm

Pro-Mark? http://www.pro-mark.com/f100_nomenclature.htm

Altecare RC's stickers/transfers for the Aviation Design F100? http://www.altecarerc.com/

Any experiences would be appreciated, and if you have other suggestions, please let me know! I am trying to also keep cost and difficulty of application to minimum!
Thanks,
Shaz
303-482-5004

sskianpour

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Here she is:

jdrd

I've used them all and Pro-Mark is the best. Especially since you're applying them on Flite-Metal. No need to clear coat them, just apply and go fly.

Would not use anything else,
Joe Grice

olnico

Hi Shaz,

Very nice job.

You need dry transfers for your flite metal surface. That way you can keep the bare aluminium surface as it is. It's going to age slowly, looking better with the time.
Stickers just don't look so good on Flite metal.

I am using ProMark for all my custom jobs. But for a very well known subject like the BVM F-100, Aeroloft will probably be cheaper.

sskianpour

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Joe & Oli, thanks for the input and advice. I am confused, once I apply dry transfers, I have always been under impression that I am supposed to spray with non-alcohol & non-acetone based flat clear spray otherwise dry transfers can rub right off during handling, transport, etc...

Does flite metal have a more aggressive bond to the transfers that stop them from rubbing off? Also in light of fact that impressions (meaning little dents) are easily left on flite metal, doesn't rubbing transfer on with burnishing tool leave little concave dents on the flite-metal where I rubbed the transfer on?

Thanks in advance guys!
Shaz

jdrd

Shaz,

Aeroloft will require clear coat over them, they're not resistant to fuel. Pro mark is fuel proof and can't be scuffed off during the life of the jet. Pro-Mark may be a little more expensive than Aeroloft, but are well worth the extra cost for durability. For the amount of work and effort you took to put the jet into Flite-Metal, reward youself with the ease and quality of Pro-Mark. Jerry and Jeff do this for a living, and their experience shows.

Hope this helps,
Joe Grice

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

The ones I put on were over the Metal Morphed plated surface, but no, Promark transfers do not need to be clear coated. Of course, if you pick at them or use a harsh cleaner, you can take them off, but they will stay on under normal wear and cleaning.

I wondered about the burnishing on top of Flite Metal as well. This wasn't a problem with the plated surface, but Promark graphics are put on top of Flite Metal all the time, so it must be doable. I'm sure that Joe has done several million by now.

As far as Aeroloft is concerned, you should do a search on here about their graphics. I had some for a project that I did that worked OK, but others have had very mixed results with them (and with the company)...

Bob

sandslx

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You cant go wrong with Promark.

Justin Sands
team JR/Horizon
BVM Rep

aquaskiman

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Nice Shaz I am looking foward to seeing it fly

invertmast

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I had a good experience with pro-mark.. but the art-work looked like a 6 year old did them. Definitely not what i expected after dropping $200+ on markings..

Kelly Rohrbach

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I have done three F100s, two in Presto and one in Flight Metal. All three were Pro-Mark and not one problem on any of them and I found the artwork to be awesome.
Flight metal LOVES Pro-Mark stuff, it will look just like paint and it WON'T come off unless you really try too. On flight metal you can rub over the aluminum with a fine scotch brite pad and go across the transfer and it will give it a real cool looking weathering effect.
My Classic balsa bandit that is 10 yrs old has pro-mark and they look as good as the day they went on.

olnico

Hi Shaz, for my super scale planes I use ProMark on bare aluminium. The transfers are extremely resistant to many chemicals, including acetone.
I do not clear the aluminium. That way the weathering process gets very realistic.
They will only slowly wear out just like the real paint was doing on the real bare aluminium planes at this time. After a year, you start to see the edge of the tiny letters wearing out slowly, which is what I am looking for.

TSHARK203

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Shaz just call Jerry at Pro-Mark and he will take care of you. It is well worth the money less hassle than water slide decals.

sskianpour

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Oli, LOL, you are in a different class by yourself. I mean it honestly when I say it bro: when you talk dude, the rest of us LISTEN! So thanks for the encouragement and kind words, but I am not seriously thinking my plane will ever come close to the realism and scale pureness that your planes approach. Seriously dude, I am not that good, likely ever. Not to say you're wasting your time...but thanks for the sentiment. [8D]

Justin, Kelly, Tom, Bob, George, and... George. Thanks also guys, will be going with Pro-Mark thanks to all your collective advices (on and off the record). Cheers, will send more photos when I have gotten her out of plain metal and into something more expensive looking! (sigh) if my wife only had a clue what I spend on my other "girls" hehehehehehehe

Shaz

olnico

Shaz, you're embarrassing me.
What I am doing is not different from what you are doing. As always, it's just a matter of time, patience and passion. If you put all your heart in the job, you'll achieve exactly the same result.
I have no pretension in playing professor or trying to be superior. Just willing to share some experience and tips.
BTW, Joe Grice is the real Flite Metal specialist here ( I've only done two planes in this material ).

Kelly Rohrbach

My Feedback: (1)

Good call Shaz,
Jerry and Jeff will do a great job for you I'm sure. When you get your order they will send a DVD that shows how all that stuff is made and some good tips on application. Best advise, listen to what they tell you and order them when you need them. They make all their stuff to order so it will be fresh and very flexible to work with. I have used transfers that are years old and still worked just fine, but fresh from the factory they are a bit more flexible and less likely to crack when applied. Having said that if you warm them up just a little with a hair dryer (warm enough) and the surface that they are going on I have found that they transfer real nice to the model, just my thoughts.

Kelly Rohrbach

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http://www.bvmjets.com/HotShots/tg05/tg05-18.jpg

Here is the F100 that we competed with at Top Gun in 05
Pro-mark all over it !!

sskianpour

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Oli, seriously, we all have opinions, in mine, you build the best jets I have seen. When taking quality of build, the finish, and scale authenticity all into one consideration, I am not sure if I have seen an equal. I will coincidentally likely be watching my friend, and a World Class Pilot Ryan Haldenwanger fly the very plane you are displaying above at THE strictly Warbird event to attend in the U.S. WARBIRDS OVER THE ROCKIES hosted by Brian O’Meara in September.
I actually own-and just sold yesterday- the F-84 Barry Raborn flew at Top Gun last year and I know how similar they looked, and when I saw yours online, and I know how many hundreds of hours Barry put into his….well….what I am trying to say Oli in a nice way is….**** up, and accept the compliment. It’s true. You do great work brother. Just keep it up so dolts like me have someone to learn from!

sskianpour

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Kelly, THAT'S a purdy Hun![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Kelly Rohrbach

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Thanks Shaz
That one is all covered in Presto with burned in rivets, even tougher to work with then Flight Metal IMO. I love the look of Flight Metal and how over time it will age and look even better, repair work is not to bad either.

olnico

Well Shaz, thank you very much for the kind words.
Let me know how you find the Rainbow Warrior when you'll see it for real in Denver.
BTW I think that the Me262 will be a notch better than the F-84...

TSHARK203

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Well I can't wait till Berry's then Mike's then Shaz's now my F-84 gets here so I can put her to good use.......lol. Oh and true Oli's F-84 is quite the bird.

SCALECRAFT

My Feedback: (13)

My K&A composite F-100 90mm edf

Other than the star and bars, decals were made. Letters made by wife"s criket machine and self adhesive moncote. or can use as stencile and paint on. Silver is rustoleum with assorted shading. Playing cards are off the net, inkjet printer on decal paper.

Steve

smchale

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I just came across this thread and was curious to ask a couple of the flite metal experts on here about their finishes.

I've finished a couple models in flite metal and applied the material in it's raw form first then had to sand it a ton to get the 'orange peel' to disappear. It's worth it in the end, but it's a lot of work. Is this how others are applying the material? Also, I've only applied it in the past on glow fuel models which meant the need for clear coat over the paint and markings (always dry transfers). I'm looking to put this on an EDF powered model which won't have the fuel exposure, but am wary about leaving the finish without clear. I like the idea of not adding a clear coat as I like how the model looks prior to it, but how can you keep the oils from your fingers effecting the finish? How are you guys cleaning the model after sanding to avoid marks from handeling it etc?

Attached are a couple pics of a 1/5th scale P-51 I did, showing the raw material applied, then sanded, then painted and clear coated.

Thanks for any input.

Eddie P

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What a beautiful BVM F-100! Looking forward to seeing your markings once you get them on.

I am just a sucker for Flite Metal jets. And Oli, your jet keeps looking better and better with age as well