A123 vs LiFe Help
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A123 vs LiFe Help
Guys a little information please,
A123 batteries:
* cylindrical cells
* 3.3 volts / cell
* lithium iron nanophosphate chemistry??
* MUST use a charger that specifically states A123 charging capabilities
LiFe batteries:
* rectangular cells, pretty green packaging, looks just like LIPO batteries
* 3.3 volts / cell
* lithium iron phosphate chemistry??
* DO you use the same charger setting as that for the A123 batteries??
If the batteries perform the same, why the difference in cell design ie. cylindrical versus rectangular? Are these two battery chemistrys really the same or do they just function similarly? Any little tidbits of information would be really great. I have searched on the net and can't seem to find what I'm looking for as to the differences that I've mentioned.
Thanks,
Gene
A123 batteries:
* cylindrical cells
* 3.3 volts / cell
* lithium iron nanophosphate chemistry??
* MUST use a charger that specifically states A123 charging capabilities
LiFe batteries:
* rectangular cells, pretty green packaging, looks just like LIPO batteries
* 3.3 volts / cell
* lithium iron phosphate chemistry??
* DO you use the same charger setting as that for the A123 batteries??
If the batteries perform the same, why the difference in cell design ie. cylindrical versus rectangular? Are these two battery chemistrys really the same or do they just function similarly? Any little tidbits of information would be really great. I have searched on the net and can't seem to find what I'm looking for as to the differences that I've mentioned.
Thanks,
Gene
#3
RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
A123's are made by a company called A123, they are a very hardy cell, can be charged at 10C and only come in 2300 and 1100 Mah, lots of rip off copies called PO4's and other names, but genuine A123's are not known to fail unless abused, can be charged on any charger that has a maximum voltage of 3.3volts or designated LiFi.
Mike
EDIT: can manage a current draw of 80amps.
Mike
EDIT: can manage a current draw of 80amps.
#4
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
Gene,
I believe they are both the same chemistry but made by different companies. A123 batts are a tademark brand and the original manufacture of the 123 cells. The Life cell is a knockoff of the same technology. I only buy certified A123 batteries and have had zero problems in 2yrs of using them.
V..
I believe they are both the same chemistry but made by different companies. A123 batts are a tademark brand and the original manufacture of the 123 cells. The Life cell is a knockoff of the same technology. I only buy certified A123 batteries and have had zero problems in 2yrs of using them.
V..
#5
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
Gene,
I am no expert on them, but I can tell u that A132 batts are a BRAND of LiFe batt. They are reliable. They are viewed as the "genuine" and "proven" article and everything else is...not.
I cant comment on the pretty green packaging/cell shape because there are no pics.
U must use a LiFe compatible charger with Life cells (3.3c/cell) of any make that I am aware of except for some the Duralite assembled A123 cell packs. Some of the Duralite LiFe (A123) packs have charging regulators built into the pack so as to make them compatible with the same durlite charger which is used for Duralite packs made from other lithium (3.7v/cell)) chemistries.
Hope this helped, Don.
I am no expert on them, but I can tell u that A132 batts are a BRAND of LiFe batt. They are reliable. They are viewed as the "genuine" and "proven" article and everything else is...not.
I cant comment on the pretty green packaging/cell shape because there are no pics.
U must use a LiFe compatible charger with Life cells (3.3c/cell) of any make that I am aware of except for some the Duralite assembled A123 cell packs. Some of the Duralite LiFe (A123) packs have charging regulators built into the pack so as to make them compatible with the same durlite charger which is used for Duralite packs made from other lithium (3.7v/cell)) chemistries.
Hope this helped, Don.
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
Guys thank you very much. That does give me a little better understanding. I feel confident in this battery technology since ALL of the threads that I've read on RCU have stated that they are indeed THE technology to use as a receiver battery source. They are what I'm switching to in all of my planes - so trying to learn as much as I can.
Gene
Gene
#7
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
I'm also learning about these batts, here is some info that may help, I got me a charger that is capable to charge A123/Li-Fe batts, I have read the review on this charger and so far so good, you can get it from 42%, the chatger is no on their web page but if you call the can get it for you.
http://www.42-percent-products.com/
If you like more info let me know.
Here you will also find a forium with lots of questions and answers, revews and more, good place to learn about charging LI-Fe/A123
Here is my setup, the converter I got it from Target for $24.00
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7028
http://www.42-percent-products.com/
If you like more info let me know.
Here you will also find a forium with lots of questions and answers, revews and more, good place to learn about charging LI-Fe/A123
Here is my setup, the converter I got it from Target for $24.00
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7028
#8
RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
One of the guys here who happens to own a hobby shop has been using the green LiFe packs u mention since they came out and has nothing but good to say about them....for what it's worth.
#9
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
ORIGINAL: BaldEagel
A123's are made by a company called A123, they are a very hardy cell, can be charged at 10C and only come in 2300 and 1100 Mah, lots of rip off copies called PO4's and other names, but genuine A123's are not known to fail unless abused, can be charged on any charger that has a maximum voltage of 3.3volts or designated LiFi.
Mike
EDIT: can manage a current draw of 80amps.
A123's are made by a company called A123, they are a very hardy cell, can be charged at 10C and only come in 2300 and 1100 Mah, lots of rip off copies called PO4's and other names, but genuine A123's are not known to fail unless abused, can be charged on any charger that has a maximum voltage of 3.3volts or designated LiFi.
Mike
EDIT: can manage a current draw of 80amps.
Thanks
Danno
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
Bob,
you really SHOULD balance A123 packs. As far as what balance taps come on them, it depends where you buy them. I supply them with either the FMA plug, or a JR connector which can attach to the FMA chargers with out FMA to CellPro adapter.
Chad
you really SHOULD balance A123 packs. As far as what balance taps come on them, it depends where you buy them. I supply them with either the FMA plug, or a JR connector which can attach to the FMA chargers with out FMA to CellPro adapter.
Chad
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RE: A123 vs LiFe Help
I converted all my planes to A123,
two cells, that i bought separately and soldered together with a balance port, gives a voltage of 6.6V - no regulators needed, simply connect it to the receiver and there you go.
one of the main advantages of A123 is the durability and safeness of these cells, it allows me to locate the batteries at such a way that i dont need to take them out of the plane for charging.
another advantage that i found (due to the very stable voltage) is with my RAM500 turbines, which are very sensitive to battery voltage - just plugged a 2 cells A123 , set the minimal voltage down to 6.3V, and the turbine never missed a start ever since.
no burnt plugs, no false starts.
two cells, that i bought separately and soldered together with a balance port, gives a voltage of 6.6V - no regulators needed, simply connect it to the receiver and there you go.
one of the main advantages of A123 is the durability and safeness of these cells, it allows me to locate the batteries at such a way that i dont need to take them out of the plane for charging.
another advantage that i found (due to the very stable voltage) is with my RAM500 turbines, which are very sensitive to battery voltage - just plugged a 2 cells A123 , set the minimal voltage down to 6.3V, and the turbine never missed a start ever since.
no burnt plugs, no false starts.