tow

Regretfully not but I understand it should be on its way shortly. Got no information from George or HAB so far........

Henke Torphammar

Guys! Any news?

tow

Have to report everything looks like it`s working here now! Had 2 or 3 sucsessful starts the other day. Regretfully the weather have not permitted any in flight-testing. Mostly rain, wind and snow even! Worst case cenario says I have to wait until spring before the Kolibri get airborne :-(
As for the starting-problems, I highly suspect the propane/butane gas (purchased from a shop starting with a B and in a blue canister) to be the culpit. When I shifted to another brand, the problems mysteriously went away.

Henke Torphammar

Good it's working. Thanks alot for your help getting a fast turn around Henke, I'm really greatful for your help. or so

tow

Firstly, I have to explain: It has taken considerable time before I got the motor back in my hands. (nothing to do with the postage,just the fact I had to drive 300 km to retrieve the parcel at my sister`s home.) Due to weather and winter this was not easely done.
As said, I got it home some days ago, and it seems to be working as should.

Please accept my apologies for not properly thanking those involved in bringing my motor-problems to a finally positive result!
Hereby consider it done! Thank You !
Regards ToreW

jasonvo

Hi Ragz, I had the same motor and the same problem like you, the T35 started no problem every time but when I advanced the throttle it went up to 130 -160 K and flame out, how do you fixed your T35? or you send it back to Mr.Lambert? if anyone know the solutions please help. Thanks

jasonvo

I did change new fuel per Henke suggest Diesel and Jet A1 but the same issues. I used Korosine + Jetcat oil 2%.

tow

My problems with the T-25 would not go away so I finally had to send it in to Lambert. Turned out the culpit were contaminated fuel. The fuel-needles are very thin so it`s extremely important the fuel being clean/well filtered! Lambert does not recommend diesel or 2T oil as this will clog up bearings over time. Currently I`m running Jet-A1 & 5% JetCat oil. Have worked flawlessly so far

Henke Torphammar

Check for leakage. also check pump value and temprature. Make a video and email Lambert then call

jasonvo

Hi Henke,
I did checked my fuel line, it got no leakage or bubble air. My T35 idle at 96-98K and Pw 180-200, egt 590c - 600c (out door temp 35-37c).
My T35 setting: Pump start point 026, pump start ramp 013, I did changed pump start ramp setting up to 020 still the same).
My troubleshooting:
* Ran fuel pump with 6V - pump worked good. (fuel pump only)
* Ran without fuel filter and fuel valve results the same - no good (started up and idle till the tanks empty but couldn't pass 130k).
* Tried 3 types of fuel: diesel, kerosine and Jet A1 + 2% Jetcat oil. (gave me the same results start up and idle but flame out around 130K)

what else should I check? thanks

jasonvo

I tried to troubleshoot first but if it still don't work the last choice it will send to Mr. Martin

Henke Torphammar

you can try increase acceleration to 035 or so, just to test. I think you might have a clogged injector, Pump value is a bit high which means the pump are working a little harder as it should.

*kinked line
*fuelfilter
*fuelvalve (electronic)
*clogged injector.

jasonvo

Thanks for your help Henke, I did increase acceleration to 035 and Idle up to 120K - 130K due to hot weather but wasn't help. I think you' re right about fuel injetor. I want to try clean it up with car fuel injector to see if it help.

Henke Torphammar

First off, simplest and easiest - Ship to Martin.

Second and not recommended - You need to suck in the line to clean the needle. You can do this your self, but if not comfortable with small screws don't.

It's about removing all electronics, sinking the engine in fuel and sucking with fuel pump for some time. Diesel cleaner in the fuel might help Let it pump with your refuel station for a while. Drain all fuel carefully before reassembly.

Now, this work is simple, but some people just are not friends with screws and should not do it as it might damage your $allot engine.(stripping an M2 screw or so)

jasonvo

Hi Henke,
I did pumped some w40 to the fuel system and washed with alcohol after that I used air pressure. Next I will find fuel injector cleaner mix with Diesel cycle it through the fuel system, if it still doesn't work I will send to Mr. Martin Thanks for your suggestion I will do it. I have no problem with small screws or electronic, wish me luck , I don't want to send to him now it might takes longer than expect, he's very busy with his new facility.

luckyflyer

I'm resurrecting this old thread because I'm having trouble with my Lambert T-30 with problems somewhat similar to what others in this thread have had. A little history on the turbine first though.In 2014 I bought this T-30 from a local guy that had purchased it and ran it on a test bench a couple of times and then did nothing with it. I bought it from him and put it in a Taft Viper jet and flew it for about 30 flights. The turbine ran flawlessly, it started easy and was a joy to operate. One day I started the turbine and I had a hot start I guess because I did not turn off the manual fuel valve. Well I panicked and instead of turning off the fuel valve I shut down power to the turbine. There was no cool down cycle so the bearings were toast. I sent it to Lambert for repairs and waited 7 months to get it back. I got it back in February this year and when I did get it back I took it out of the box looked it over and put it on the shelf because I was very busy with my work. Now I'm not so busy so I installed it back into the Viper and tried to prime the fuel line but the fuel pump would not run. I knew that this was not the same fuel pump that I had sent to Lambert because the pump I sent to him had heat shrink over the wires covering the terminals on the motor. I took the pump off of the motor and tested it and the motor worked fine. I then reassembled and with the motor running at a low to medium speed started to tighten down the 2 screws. Sure enough the motor stalled with little torque on the screws. I attached the fuel lines to the pump and connected to my large fuel dispenser so that I could circulate fluid. I connected the pump to a variable power supply and set the voltage to 3 to 4 volts and then let the pump run circulating fuel. Every few minutes I would tighten the two screws a little more until after about 45 minutes the screws were tight and the pump was running normally, final machining now done. I now tried to start but before it got going it flamed out and blew out a lot of smoke, I've always ran diesel and never had any problems. I tried a couple more starts with the same results and then noticed fuel dripping from the turbine area onto the floor. I decided to pull the turbine and clear any excess fuel from it with compressed air but did not get any fuel to come out. I then set up a test stand and got the turbine to start but it is shooting out a 4 to 5 inch flame. I thought maybe it would clear its self but it never did, the cone is now starting to glow red so I shut it down and it went into cool down but now I notice that the motor drive is slipping on the turbine. I pull the start motor housing off and flip over the o ring and that seemed to fix it. Its late so I stop for the day. Today I charged all batteries and start the turbine again same problem 4 to 5 inch flame, it does not clear so I shut down and the drive starts to slip. I'm prepared and have compressed air close by so I cool down using it. The turbine is simply getting too much fuel at start up. Here's the deal, I really don't want to use Martin Lambert if I don't absolutely need to. I believe there are two possibilities why the turbine is doing what it is. Wrong fuel pump, the pump says Lambert XP13. When I set my bench power supply to 1 volt the pump delivers about 3 maybe 4 drops per second. the other possibility is incorrect ecu settings Here are the settings from the ecu Pulse =1103 usec 15%, start min temp 100c, max temp 900c, acceleration delay 026, deceleration delay 016, stability delay 043, pump start point 027, pump start ramp 015, glow plug power 044. For now I would just like to get the turbine running correctly. I can use compressed air for start and cool down and later on fix the starter drive. Lambert guys please help me out.

luckyflyer

Making progress, after a full day of researching this problem here on rcu and rcg I'm now much more educated. Really the best information has come from the Xicoy v10 users manual, could not find a manual for the older ecu. Going to try starting the turbine again this evening after it starts to cool down outside, wml.

tow

The manual for the older FADEC from Xicoy is here:
http://www.espiell.com/FAD06.pdf

jasonvo

I got this problem before, the turbine won't auto cool down itself, I turned off the power source and reconnected after that I moved throttle up half way up and moved back to Idle position then ECU will reading high temp from turbine and starting cool down process until temp reading below 100 Celsius.

c_makhija

The ECU will not go into auto cool if you do not get a successful start. In that case you need to get the trim full back and open the throttle stick and manually control the cooling.

luckyflyer

Has anyone found a source for the starter o-ring from Mcmaster Carr or other?

luckyflyer

I'm still trying to get my Lambert turbine to run right and while I was inspecting the starter drive o-ring I noticed a wire in the fuel line. Is this normal? some sort of restrictor maybe? I don't know will leave it alone for now.

tow

The little piece of wire is supposed to keep the fuel line from collapsing. Leave it alone!

luckyflyer

Got it, thanks.

luckyflyer

Today I finally got my turbine running correctly. The problem was a blocked injector(s). I stripped and dunked in kerosene and pulled suction with my tank filler pump. After about 6 minutes or so I heard a change in the way the pump sounded, I'm pretty sure that's when it pulled out the blockage. I reassembled and I could tell on the first start it was fixed. Parameters are now all nominal in the ecu and it runs good from low to high rpm. Wheew, I'm glad that's over.