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Receiver batteries
Hi Guys
I’ve recently bought my first jet - a Boomerang Nano fitted with Wren 44 Gold. The model was second hand from a very reputable local model shop. The only component missing is the receiver. The model appears to be in very good condition, the turbine has a total running time of 110 minutes. One question I have is regarding radio. I currently use a JR XG11 DMSS radio. I plan to use the 11 channel JR RG1131B receiver. I have noticed that the model is fitted with 2x 2000mah 6v NIMH receiver batteries (plus a 2s lipo for the ECU). The receiver previously installed in the model was a Spektrum with two battery terminals. Is this common practice to use two receiver batteries, presumably one as a backup if the other fails? I have been looking through the JR DMSS range of receivers but they do not offer a similar receiver with the two battery terminals. In my F3A models, my preferred method is to use a 2s lipo and a Power Box Digi Switch, is this suitable in a jet? Another option is to continue with the two NIMH receiver batteries (obviously replace with new ones) and use a Power Box 12 switch which allows the use of 2 receiver batteries. Any help would be much appreciated. Regards Stephen |
RE: Receiver batteries
Hi Stephen,
Yes it is common practice to use dual batteries in a jet. The main aim is redundancy, as at jet speeds even a momentary loss of control through a brown out event, can be catastrophic. This has the added benefit that twin batteries working in parallel offer twice the current capability of a single battery. Again, jets tend to use high power digital servos, and these are current hungry. If you intend to replace the NiMh batteries, then my advice would be to go for A123 batteries if you can. I think these are now accepted as the best battery technology currently available. Personally, I use no NiMh batteries in my models. John |
RE: Receiver batteries
I agree the Life may be better but see no reason why not to stick with the sub C Nimh batteries which I use in all my models, properly charged they are very robust.
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RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: StephenUK I have been looking through the JR DMSS range of receivers but they do not offer a similar receiver with the two battery terminals.Regards Stephen You can plug a second battery into any unused servo terminal. It will operate in parallel with the one plugged into the "battery" terminal. Concur with JohnMac on the A-123 battery suggestion. I use them in all my jets. Craig |
RE: Receiver batteries
I'm not disagreeing with what has been written just giving another view.
I have been flying a Boomerang XL for the last four years with one LiFe 2300 two cell. KISS m |
RE: Receiver batteries
I am with you John been using back -up system in all my models from Gliders to Jets and have been using A123 for the last 4 years now :)
cheers Andy |
RE: Receiver batteries
Hi guys,
Thank you very much for the information. If I use 2s A123 batteries, Will i be ok to plug these straight into the receiver through a normal switch, without the use of a regulator? the receiver instructions specify an input voltage range of 4.8v - 8.5v and a 'normal rated voltage' of 4.8v? I guess it would depend on the voltage rating of the servos? Once again many thanks Stephen |
RE: Receiver batteries
I would always go through a regulator like Power Box sensor switch or emcotech
cheers Andy |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: CraigG ORIGINAL: StephenUK I have been looking through the JR DMSS range of receivers but they do not offer a similar receiver with the two battery terminals.Regards Stephen You can plug a second battery into any unused servo terminal. It will operate in parallel with the one plugged into the ''battery'' terminal. Concur with JohnMac on the A-123 battery suggestion. I use them in all my jets. Craig |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: ash 26 I would always go through a regulator like Power Box sensor switch or emcotech cheers Andy |
RE: Receiver batteries
If the model has been flying fine I'd just replace the batteries with new of the same specification NIMH.
No CG problems, no packaging or access problems, just fit your reciever, set up & fly. NIMH batteries are fine as long as you realise their good & bad points & use them appropriately. The set up you have is exactly what I use in my jets, plug the extra battery into any spare socket on the reciever via a switch or your choice. Some servos get angry if you feed them too much voltage hence the need for a regulator. In my F3A models, my preferred method is to use a 2s lipo and a Power Box Digi Switch, is this suitable in a jet? available, used 2 LIFE batteries & 2 x PB Digi Switches which worked fine. The only thing that concerned me was the current rating of the Digi switches, jets use lots of servos & the current rating of the switches I bought was quite low. - John. |
RE: Receiver batteries
The reciever you refer to is called a Power Safe reciever and yes, its got dual battery inputs for redundancy and a "soft switch" which means the switch when closed holds the reciever in an OFF state, so if the switch fails they normally fail open, and you just cant turn off your reciever, vice the other way around where if a normal switch opens you loose power.
As for the DMSS recievers, they do not, as of yet, offer Power Safe recievers in DMSS yet and your radio isn't compatable with any of the DSMX power safe receivers. I was told, end of January for DMSS power safe, but....its the end of January and they aren't here yet so.....soon maybe? |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: StephenUK Another option is to continue with the two NIMH receiver batteries (obviously replace with new ones) and use a Power Box 12 switch which allows the use of 2 receiver batteries. Welcome to jets, you'll love it!! |
RE: Receiver batteries
Yes it is common to use two packs for back up purposes and yes you can just plug the second battery into an unused receiver channel. I for the longest time did not usually do this but started flying giant scale planes with my son so started using dual RX batteries. I set up my 37% ultimate with a smart fly power expander with 2 LiFe batteries plugged in. In my son's plane which is a 30% extra I used two LiFe batteries directly into the receiver. Today that practice saved his plane. He did a very hard snap roll today while flying, when we landed something was a little off so we took off the canopy and one of the batteries had come loose from it's mount and disconnected itself. If the second battery had not been there, we would have lost the plane. So yes use both batteries, with power expander or a just plugged into the rx.
Patrick |
RE: Receiver batteries
Yes it is common to use two packs for back up purposes and yes you can just plug the second battery into an unused receiver channel. I for the longest time did not usually do this but started flying giant scale planes with my son so started using dual RX batteries. I set up my 37% ultimate with a smart fly power expander with 2 LiFe batteries plugged in. In my son's plane which is a 30% extra I used two LiFe batteries directly into the receiver. Today that practice saved his plane. He did a very hard snap roll today while flying, when we landed something was a little off so we took off the canopy and one of the batteries had come loose from it's mount and disconnected itself. If the second battery had not been there, we would have lost the plane. So yes use both batteries, with power expander or a just plugged into the rx.
Patrick |
RE: Receiver batteries
The guy is talking about a Boomer Nano which was designed to be a simple jet and not need all the fancy stuff. If the batteries you got with the jet are ok just carry on using them. Again keep it simple</p> |
RE: Receiver batteries
at last, some sense.
m |
RE: Receiver batteries
i wouldnt change the batterys but i would put them through a powerbox sensor switch ,if the switch fails it will do so in a closed position,the lights will also give you an indication of battery condition. a nano may be the budget end of the market but actually its still a sh1t load of £ to stick in the deck
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RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: 3dean i wouldnt change the batterys but i would put them through a powerbox sensor switch ,if the switch fails it will do so in a closed position,the lights will also give you an indication of battery condition. a nano may be the budget end of the market but actually its still a sh1t load of £ to stick in the deck You sold yours. Now that was a Bargain http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...wink_smile.gif |
RE: Receiver batteries
First...there is no such thing as 4.8v operation...I have argued with JR over this for 10 years plus and have only had a straight answer in the last year. 4.8v is a poor description of battery voltage, it means 4 cell. 6v (common Futaba talk) means 5 cell...Ni or MiMH. These are flat voltages and NOT what we fly at. Good 4 cell packs operate between 5.5 and 5.7v, Good 5 cell packs around 7.2v. JR do all their testing on servos and radios at 5.7v....
Most Rx's now are good over a range of voltages right up to 8.4v (2s Li-Po called 7.4v!!) 2s Li-po when charged. So its down the the servos and sometimes valves as to what they will take. Powerbox realised a long time ago that an optimum voltage for servos and Rx's is between 5.5 and 5.9v I fly my Nano with a single Digi switch rated at 3A and 5.5v, it has a 2s Li-Po charged to 8.4v and I have digital servos on everything except nose steering and I can say I fly it hard...for landing I have 90 degree flap, Ailerons raised 12mm and rudders spread 15mm to all act as air brake. I have 100+ flights and the Digi switch heat sink gets slightly warm after flight. (how many of you check the temp of your Sensor switch or even Powerbox unit alu heat sinks...this tells you everything about how hard the unit is working. In this case if they are good NimH (Eneloop) or quality D cells running 5 cells (so 7v plus), I'd stick in a Sensor Switch (overkill) and fly all weekend. I have Sensor switches in all my CARF Flashes including the 2006 Instruction manual aeroplane, with the same two 2s Li-Pos with hundreds and hundreds of flights...thats rated at 5A Dave W |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere First...there is no such thing as 4.8v operation...I have argued with JR over this for 10 years plus and have only had a straight answer in the last year. 4.8v is a poor description of battery voltage, it means 4 cell. 6v (common Futaba talk) means 5 cell...Ni or MiMH. These are flat voltages and NOT what we fly at. Good 4 cell packs operate between 5.5 and 5.7v, Good 5 cell packs around 7.2v. JR do all their testing on servos and radios at 5.7v.... Most Rx's now are good over a range of voltages right up to 8.4v (2s Li-Po called 7.4v!!) 2s Li-po when charged. So its down the the servos and sometimes valves as to what they will take. Powerbox realised a long time ago that an optimum voltage for servos and Rx's is between 5.5 and 5.9v I fly my Nano with a single Digi switch rated at 3A and 5.5v, it has a 2s Li-Po charged to 8.4v and I have digital servos on everything except nose steering and I can say I fly it hard...for landing I have 90 degree flap, Ailerons raised 12mm and rudders spread 15mm to all act as air brake. I have 100+ flights and the Digi switch heat sink gets slightly warm after flight. (how many of you check the temp of your Sensor switch or even Powerbox unit alu heat sinks...this tells you everything about how hard the unit is working. In this case if they are good NimH (Eneloop) or quality D cells running 5 cells (so 7v plus), I'd stick in a Sensor Switch (overkill) and fly all weekend. I have Sensor switches in all my CARF Flashes including the 2006 Instruction manual aeroplane, with the same two 2s Li-Pos with hundreds and hundreds of flights...thats rated at 5A Dave W |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: StephenUK Hi guys, Thank you very much for the information. If I use 2s A123 batteries, Will i be ok to plug these straight into the receiver through a normal switch, without the use of a regulator? the receiver instructions specify an input voltage range of 4.8v - 8.5v and a 'normal rated voltage' of 4.8v? I guess it would depend on the voltage rating of the servos? Once again many thanks Stephen Mike |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: BaldEagel ORIGINAL: StephenUK Hi guys, Thank you very much for the information. If I use 2s A123 batteries, Will i be ok to plug these straight into the receiver through a normal switch, without the use of a regulator? the receiver instructions specify an input voltage range of 4.8v - 8.5v and a 'normal rated voltage' of 4.8v? I guess it would depend on the voltage rating of the servos? Once again many thanks Stephen Mike |
RE: Receiver batteries
ORIGINAL: Su26flyer The guy is talking about a Boomer Nano which was designed to be a simple jet and not need all the fancy stuff. If the batteries you got with the jet are ok just carry on using them. Again keep it simple</p> With regard to needing a regulator or not, I have both situations. I one model equiped with older JR servos I have a regulator (Emcotec BIC) fitted to ensure the voltage is always kept below 6 volts. I another jet fitted with Hitec servos there is no regulator and also no problems. My 2 peneth. John |
RE: Receiver batteries
it depends on the max voltage that your servos will take. Many JR and some Futaba servos are rated at 6 volts max. I've seen one such servo get cooked running an unregulated 123 pack. NiMH have a bad tendancy to drop in voltage under load....I wont use them except in pairs of 5 cells with a regulator.
Since the Nano only weighs 12 lbs fully fuelled, there is no need to get overly complicated with it. |
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