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ORIGINAL: countryshooter

no. I put about 1/4" shim under the stabuilizer arm that connects to the wing, on each side the back end of the wing is about 1" lower then front and the stabilizer is even front and back. I dont know what degree it is. yes I mean the tailboom and wing.

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ORIGINAL: Stick Jammer

You're welcome, glad it worked for ya. Did your range problems go away?

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ORIGINAL: timevac

Has anybody seen, or is anybody using a genisis pusher pipe? They make one special for the bobcat
http://www.westonuk.co.uk/index_090.htm

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ORIGINAL: Stick Jammer

What you have effectively done here is negative incidence on the stabilizer. Adding shims to the rear bolts of the tail booms does not change the wing incidence. Incidence has to be measured with the center line of the fuse perfectly level. If you level the fuse and re-measure the incidence you will see that the leading edge of the stab is now lower than the trailing edge and the wing is most likely level (0 incidence). What this has done is almost the same effect as adding some up elevator to your trim, the air is pushing the tail down in upright flight. It also has most likely seriously affected inverted flight (nose will want to drop hard because the air is pushing up on the stab).

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ORIGINAL: Larry Legg


Can this be achieved by adding downward thrust to the engine?

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ORIGINAL: Texan

Has anyone here tried elevon mixing on the Bobcat?

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ORIGINAL: -Stevo-

I take it you got it on the ground all in one piece... what kind of damage, if any, did you find?

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ORIGINAL: CrashPro



Unfortunately, it did not make it to the ground unscathed,...those nose wheel landings get ya every time. Canopy was smashed, ailerons were pulled out, he was lucky to have enough control left to get it on the runway. This blows,...it was only the 3rd flight on the plane. Maiden and the second flight today was good. http://home.dc.rr.com/maurie/FlutterSplat.wmv

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ORIGINAL: qlacombe

I recently purchased a bobcat from an individual that had a GMS 76 engine with a 14X7 master airscrew 3-blade prop cut down to 11X7. Once in the air, in abougt 2 minutes it lost power and quit evidently from overheating. On the ground It would then overheat within a minute. carburator adjustment did not help. I replaced the engine with a Magnum 91XLS that I had used on a previous plane with no problems. I cut down a 3-blade 14X7 to 13X7. Everything seemed fine until like previously, after a couple minutes in the air, lost power and rpms evidently overheating. I am using 15% fuel that I was using on the engine when it was on the other plane. Very strange. I will try 30% next flight. I also had problems getting the nose to rise on takeoff. CG seems fine once in the air. I will add some height to the front wheel to add some lift from underneath . Question is, how much do I add? 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch, 2 inch? Anybody have any experience with this. I don't see many references to the overheating problems and I am suprised considering I am 2 for 2 for engine overheating. No other plane I have ever had has had this problem. Any other ideas other than the fuel? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Quentin

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ORIGINAL: CrashPro

I've run a Master Air Screw 14X7 three blade cut down on my Bobcat with Magnum .91 also, but I had no overheating problems at all. Its not cold here either, weather was in the low 80's when I had that setup. The problem with that prop tho is couldn't get any real speed out of it, best was 82 mph on the radar gun. I'm currently running a 14X6 APC cut down to 13". Its faster, but still not as fast as it was with the Tower .75 and 11X7 APC prop (110 mph).

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ORIGINAL: dragonpilot

The Tower .75/11x7 apc is the proven combo from the very beginning. and pound for pound the cheapest. Just make sure you reinforce the carb mount otherwise you're subject to the stamped metal arm failing in flight. If you're going to spend the $$ on an OS.91 put retracts in instead....

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