Mine has turned 30l of diesel into noise and fun now. What a plane I have to say! I have removed some 40g(now 210g) of lead from the nose and propably will take some more. But CG is pretty close now.

I had Gopro inboard for several flights and I noticed high vacuum inside the fuselage. I have few scale outlets in my fuse but no bunny ears yet. I'd say it's better to open them too. Vacuum is in the highest point with gear up, zero airspeed and max throttle. Then canopy sides are flexing both 1cm inwards maybe... 140XBL is screaming for more air. Does anybody else have this problem?

/Jyri

This is common with unducted fuselages, its "blowing up" with air pressure in flight and sucking in when the turbine sucks air.
Look at the fuselage and canopy on the ground, I think you will see only a very small movement, so the turbine is breathing fine.

Dave

would reallylike to see some videos
can you post them .?

Sure. Here is one short clip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jkMz-G_iFo

/Jyri

izzy

Here is one video of those onboard flights mentioned earlier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr6ElcxvwGo
Local cousin dropped in to say hello on third flight. (pic.)

It is still nose heavy to my taste but getting closer all the time. It climbs on full throttIe and needs lot of push when inverted. Some push is also present on knife edge too. I have also reduced elevator and aileron throws a bit. Now I have only 120g of lead on the nose. Almost 40 liters consumed. Tried dyed heating oil instead of diesel with good results. Datasheet claims max 6ppm of sulfur compared to 5ppm of diesel. Helps with refueling because you'll be able to see the fuel level trough aramid tank. I ordered 20l of DTE Light so it's not going to run out soon :)

/Jyri

Jyri hi
thanks for the video
I maidened my hawk yesterday
words are hard to describe her
it flies just ashttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2099505http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2099506 well as the ultra flash , but with more drag , and more presence
anyone contemplating a hawk, this is the one ,look no further

Thanks to Izzy , got the chance to fly the hawk ,one word .... Excellent ! Never had the chance to fly one .... So . Thanks bud ! Now get on and install a cockpit as it desperately needs one .
Fantastic bird !

Hi izzy
Congrats of your maiden! Nice colors you have there! That should be highly visible on every possible weather.

I've burnt 50 liters now. In less that a month. Thats how good plane it is :) Lost a gear door again but this time I have onboard video so I know roughly where it is... It was third nose gear door so easy to replace even if not found on the field.

/Jyri

Time for update.

Almost 70 liters burnt now. Time for some scale detailing. Things like under belly fins, canopy frames inside and few holes and bumbs added on fuselage. Start of aluminium basecoat also. Already had to add some CA to aileron horn to eliminate slop. They made noise when pushing it on tarmac and not running the engine.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2103377http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2103378http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2103380http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2103379

It seems that it need more airspeed when balanced more aft. I'm on somewhat 205mm now. I have messed up touch down by underspeed and caused bad bouncing on tarmac. Having some throttle on final helps this. I have a feeling that nose oleo is too stiff and part of the bouncing problem. I have already ordered new softer springs for it but does anybody experience about this? Is it going to get worse with soft front? Of course landing it perfectly is the key but...

/Jyri

my main struts have soft springs i think , and the plane wobbles if the front wheel has too much movement
for reference , i have reduced movement and can barely get a 8 mtr radius on taxi

thinking of changing springs to stiffer ones , but dont want to over do it to minimize pressure on the small wooden retract mounts
is anyone else having same issues

Yes, the main struts are VERY soft. I've just lived with it, they work fine but, can easily compress too much in a bit of a heavier than normal landing and knock the strut gear doors off. Most Carf Hawks that you see, that fly off pavement, have the pointed tip of the strut gear doors shaved down because of the landing gear over compressing.

Mike

What comes to bouncing and springs I do agree mains being soft and knocking middle door off the mains as real problem. Done that too several times now actually. But I have to say I kinda like to see it crouching on the ground like real thing. Only thing that looks funny is when you apply too much wheel brake and it crouches even more. Key is to me to brake softly. Same goes for the wobbling too. Small movements on nose gear unless very low speed. I use dual rates for that...

For bouncing I found the cure from much softer nose leg spring. I don't know the spring constant of that original super hard spring but it is much more than the 35N/mm. Ordered set of springs and like 11N/mm most. It loads like the mains on fuelled plane.

Anyway 115 liters consumed and more than 10h in air. Somewhat 150 landings now. Managed to get some of those long nose gear floating landings also. Those always look great with Hawks. Paints ordered today and I think I'll got my own secret agent to the factory to take me good photos of the original paint sheme. He even offered original paints :)

/Jyri

A short movie of my CARF Hawk in summertime in Norway. This is before adding scale details and with a severely nose heavy plane :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LvRIdDz1Rs

Cheers!

Great video!!
what struts are you using ?

Look like stock CARF Sports legs...

Thanks Dave.

Yepp. Stock legs. Very robust. Mine have been taking abuse since 2009 :-). Still going strong

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsSrfGFiOQQ What a great weekend. Had a blast with the hawk. Flys perfect.

looking for the dimensions for the pitot tube that would suit this scale
does anyone have them
thanks

Got three different sizes . U can take down measurements and suit to your scale 1/5.5..

Finally got the wings on, first time since spraying fuz. Still got wing to do as obviously they don't match up!
I have two more pitot tubes to make but after having cataract op done 4 weeks ago I cannot see good enough to make on lathe yet but having eye test done this week so will get new lens. So the guys waiting I will be on them next weekend.
This unfortunately was supposed to have the wing painted last summer but ended up busting ankle. :-(
Right I have a problem with one of the wooden blocks in the wing one side the block appears to have pulled down into the wing, the other side is fine with the M5 cap head proud of the wing the other side the cap head bolt is about 2mm lower than wing skin.
Does anyone know exactly what the assembly is on the block of wood where wing fixing bolt goes through?

Just had a look with a torch through the flap and it appears to have big block of hard balsa on the inside of the rib. Pressed a small diameter length of carbon rod into this block and it does appear very hard but it did leave a small indent hence why I think it's hard balsa. Thinking of filling hole in with Hysol and re-bore hole for head of cap head but obviously not as deep as the bolt goes presently

Alan

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112496 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112499 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112501 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112503

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112514 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112515

Hawk does look much better when painted I have to admit...

Meanwhile I have added some small details on mine and flown some more. Tires has lost some diameter and wing tips are heavilly scrached now. Easy to fix before paint :) My Pitot- tube is just two pieces of carbon tube epoxied together and aluminium nut on the root. Aluminium tape on top. Not as good as real rotated al- spike but bearable. Since I have ordered Xicoy Flight Computer with airspeed sensor I have to re-think that too...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112679http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112680http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112681
I was suprised to see soot on my pipe seam. I would have tought it it breathing in and not like that. Not sure if the gap is correct... anyway it works well.

/Jyri

Looking good Jyri, I did make a live Pitot tube for one guy but I don't think he ever reported back if it worked ok with his sensor at the back etc

Just cleaned up both wing mounting holes, bored out a little with boring tool. It does appear thankfully to be a softwood and not hard balsa, greased some pins with grease so Hysol don't stick to them.

Alan

Removed the fibreglass rods ok and left stainless washer in place so once dried off should be a bit more secured, depth of Hysol is around 8-10mm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112700 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112714 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2112715

Almost done, need cockpit and stickers, wing fences and aerials to add.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2113114http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2113115http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2113116http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2113117http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2113118

About time....crack on