HerrSavage

BTW, I sent an email to TT Europe yesterday, basically saying the CVD broke randomly.. They answered today and said they would ship a replacement under warrantee.. Not bad..

It seems a few people have had issues with randomly snapping CVD's.. I wonder if there was a bad batch.. In my experience CVD's have always bent, and never just snapped like that.. I know some RC8.2 people were having snapping CVD issues too - maybe the same factory, same bad batch of metal or whatever?...

Haddi Taha

Thats awesome that they replaced your cvd, from what I have seen and experienced, thunder tiger has good customer service

Foxy

My Savage used to snap em, my Mugen used to bend em, I guess it depends on the grade and type of steel. My Xray ones (Hudy spring steel) neither bend nor snap (so far!).

HerrSavage

Orion Brushless Set Motor 10T 2050KV + 160A ESC KVB?

Any good?

Haddi Taha

It has a 2 pole motor and 4s only esc. The Hobbywing xerun are better

http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-comb...Path=1560_1301

Why do you want a new motor though?

HerrSavage

Just keeping an eye out for deals.. Might do up my second LST2 some day since nobody's buying it..(Have had two nitro LST2's for like 3-4 years - one for six, one for 3-4.. The second one was intended to be a track truck with truggy wheels, etc.., but had too many problems with the 2-speed.. So now it's basically just a second basher..) Or get one as a backup. Just ordering some parts from a shop, and seeing what they have..

I still really don't understand electrics at all. I mean, with the stock motor, can you have more speed/power/whatever with just a different ESC? I want some day to get the Hobbywing 150AS D or whatever - I've done enough research to know that's what I want as far as ESC's go. Motors it seems the Castle 1515 is the one everyone wants. For an LST2 I hear Castle 1717 is the way to go. Castle though is pricey...

So far the stock motor seems pretty awesome to me, and I haven't even gone above 4s. Would the stock set-up be enough for an LST2 I wonder? The stock electronics are easy to get cheap. Converting an LST2 though is just labor- and money- and hassle-intensive. Converstion kit, single-speed conversion, FOC kit(all need to be ordered from abroad I think), fabricating this or that.. I guess if it were single-speed though - nitro or electric - I could go back to using it more as a track truck.. And if it were electric, it would serve the purpose of being able to use it during "quiet time" at the track from 1-3, between nitro time basically.... Currently nitro quiet time is a real PIA. On a Saturday or Sunday, you either have to go really early, say at 9, and stop at 1, and sit around for two hours. Or, you just go late, showing up at 3, and only run for the last few hours - which can lead to other conflicts if you're talking about getting back at 8 or 9.. Having an electric for the track would kind of simplify things - I could go when I want and just mess with the electric til I bring the REAL RC's out... (ha ha.. JK..)

Still unsure about how worthwhile it would be to, for ex., get a 16T pinion say, and truggy tires, and just put those on the MT4 for the track.. I guess that could work too.

Just ordered a bunch of spares btw(CVD's, arms all around, set of shock towers). Need to sort out a brace, and some better hinge pins, and it'll be getting close to the point where I can lay into this thing..

Haddi Taha

The stock mt4 setup can pull a thunder tiger e-mta, I would imagine it would work in a lst2 right? 

turok007

this truck is still out of stock in the UK. so does anyone know what they have changed on the new model apart from the TX.

Foxy

That's it. The TX. I've compared old and new side by side in the flesh, I couldn't see any difference on the car itself.

Haddi Taha

wow in australia we are having it easy, when the mt4 went outastock the first time, the truck and spares were still easy to get and they still are, meanwhile in us and europe

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

The Castle 1515 (2200kv) is about the most popular out there for a variety of reasons. It's one of the most powerful and efficient out there, it's readily available (in most places) and the Kv works in a wide variety of combinations well. I had a Leopard 4074 2000kv (same as Ripper in G3?) and it felt a little flat power wise (didn't have the same mid range rush) and ran a little hotter. Enough to justify the price difference is a matter of opinion, but it was a good motor that worked in my 1/8 scales just fine. Either would be fine in an LST on 4s, higher voltage if it could be geared properly. That Tenshock intrigues me as the review video said performance was more like the Castle 1515 and being a 6 pole efficiency should be close to the Castle too. Just avoid 2 pole motors. For the LST, if you can find a motor longer than the standard 4074 and more like 4082 that'll give more torque to haul the bigger truck around.

The Castle 1717 is an overkill motor, it can power lightweight 1/5 scales like the RedCat XBe. I have one in my LST XXL on 5s geared for 50mph and it only gets warm while pulling wheelies at any speed. You also can't find the original green 1717 very easily anymore, they were discontinued. The black versions from the Traxxas XO-1 are the only ones readily available, but they do have a few small refinements over the old version. Running a 1717 in an LST also requires a custom mount or The Dude Racing (TDR) mount, t's also unlikely it would fit in the G3 without modification due to the larger diameter.

As much as love MT's and my LST, for the track a Truggy is so much more enjoyable. The G3 is basically a Truggy, if it was me I'd just invest in some tires and possibly a pinion.

sparky 25

Herr,

Converting the lst to brushless doesn't have to be pricey,

I pulled the transmission apart and removed all the excess low speed gears and reverse,
just leaving the high speed gears I then shimmed the gears in place with some alloy and brass spacers I had laying around,

This gave me the foc at no cost at all,

I made a motor mount from 50mm x 50mm x 3mm alloy angle,
which a was quite easy to do and drilled the holes to mount it to the chassis,
in line with the original engine mount holes, this let me be able to set the desired gear mesh,

I removed the large first gear spur that runs on the one way bearing and put a spacer in its place,
Similar to the one in the pic below,

Then drilled the second speed clutch housing, top and button and put screws in these holes to lock the 2nd speed spur gear to the lay shaft,

This again cost nothing,

I bought The lst conversion kit battery tray which is a disaster, puts way too much weight to the rear of the truck,
So removed it and installed a battery tray from ebay up front,

I went with a 2364kv 4074 motor and a hpi savage flux 25t pinion gear, this meshed excellent with the lst 2nd speed spur gear,

And fitted a toro 80A esc, ran this setup on 4s and it was serious fast, after the first run I busted both front and rear stock plastic lst
Diff holders,

Replaced them with alloy units from an lst2 and installed the lst wheelie bar,

The only reason I sold this truck was because I wanted to release some funds for my 1/5 brushless conversion.

HerrSavage

That's cool and all, but fabricating stuff like that is not my thing. Which is why I say, converting an LST2 is either A.) expensive, or B.) a PIA - and most likely, both.

I was kind of surprised to see that the LST conversion kit only costs like 50 bucks, which is tolerable..(had only ever searched for the AE kit, which is more like €80) But ordering a single-speed hub from abroad, fabricating this and drilling that, experimenting with different battery trays - all without a LHS and therefore the ability to really see anything up close, nnaaa.... If there were something that was really buy, install, and run in terms of simplicity, maybe.. But I don't like having to drill stuff. I don't have a serious workshop, with clamps to hold stuff and fancy drillbits and all the rest. My RC mentalitiy is very much set and forget.., and I can live with the cons that go with that. It's mostly just because, having to order everything, I don't want to wait two weeks (or six, if coming from the States), then have it show up, and find that it doesn't work, or - typcially... - you need something else to make it work, etc etc...

Thanks though.

ps I ordered a Harley brace for the MT4. So I'm going to head to the hardware store and look for something even remotely resembling brackets for mounting it. It will almost definitely be the 12,000th time I've gone to the hardware store (or lame-axx excuse for a LHS) looking for RC stuff and not finding anything..

Haddi Taha

my new diff setup is going to be 30wt in the front, 100k in the center and 10k in the rear (pretty close the my old one except the front)

HerrSavage

I think I like the 100k in the middle compared to 50k.. TBH I haven't even opened my front and rear diffs.... [X(]

Anybody out there want to make me up some chassis brackets? Nothing at the hardware store... []

ps I've been reading a bit elsewhere about external BEC's..(yet another thing to complicate the supposedly wonderfulfly simple, set-and-forget world of brushless... ) If I'm running the Hobbico CS170(Hitec 5955), is this something I need, and if so, what's a good cheap one? Thanks..

HerrSavage

Well, now that I've sold my RC8.2, I feel the lack of a buggy in my collection.. I really would like a high-end race buggy - like a Mugen MBX7.. But to be honest, I don't race that seriously - or even want to. And every time I end up investing big in a race ride, I feel guilty, worry about its value, and generally end up selling it. I think once you're up at like a grand for a toy race car that you don't even race, it's a bit stupid..

Anyway, was just browsing, and found I could get a TT EB4 G3 WITH 3700 REEDY 4s LIPO (just like the two I have for my MT4), for €375!.. That's crazy.., when you think just a high-end kit with nothing costs minimum €400('bout €525 for an MBX7).. Anybody have any experience with the EB4 G3, know what parts cross over with the MT4, etc?..

I wonder even if, with some "real" race tires, a wing, and a cab-foreard race body if it could look a bit cooler... I guess the only weak point is the 80a ESC.. - but it has the same motor as the MT4.. So - ching ching, another advantage - backup motor, or a motor that could end up in something else if I wanted some day..

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Your esc has a built in Bec, and it's probably rated for between 3 and 5amps at somewhere between 4.8 and 6 volts. Under load the voltage will drop decreasing performance. If you're going to put an external Bec in it should be over 5amps otherwise it's not worth the trouble. I like the Castle 10amp Bec, it's voltage is also adjustable. I noticed a bit of a difference in my LST with a single Hitec hsr5890. My nephews brushless LST with dual jr590's saw a big difference in servo performance when the external Bec was set to 6.0 volts. In the MT4 with the cs170 you might notice the servo being a little quicker with the external Bec. But might not be worth the exffort since the external Bec must be soldered to the esc battery plug. I would call an external Bec an optional accessory not a must in most land vehicles, unless you have a High Voltage 7.4v servo and want to take advantage of it.

I'm the same way with high end stuff, I couldn't beat on my rc8 or 8ight-t 2.0 and ended up selling them. I had more fun with an Ofna LX-1e, but being an older design it is outclassed in every respect by the newer race stuff. With some suspension tuning it was a capable buggy though. The eb4 looks like a newer design than the lx1e so I'd be less worried about that and I'm sure some suspension tuning would make it fun on a track. I also wouldn't worry about the 80amp esc, it powers the mt4 fine and that's heavier with bigger tires. Another thing to consider is the less expensive buggies and truggies usually don't shocks that are as good as the expensive stuff but the rest of the suspension may comparable. All it may take is an upgrade in shocks that will still put you under the cost of the race stuff and bring performance a lot closer to the race stuff.

HerrSavage

The MT4 has a 150a ESC...

Thanks for the info. Not gonna' be any soldering going on, so toss the external BEC thing then...

Haddi Taha

I just bought a Japanese made 46 watt soldering iron for $80, I can solder deans in 2 minutes now Compared to 15 minutes before with my crappy made in china $20 iron. I thought I would never have the skills to solder till I bought the right gear.

HerrSavage

Awesome.. I have tons of AE and now MT4 G3 parts - old SC8 shocks, Big Bores from an RC8B, etc etc.. Just made a huge order for RC8T and MT4 stuff - including diffs, hinge pins, and on and on...

I am really more and more coming to the conclusion that these mega expensive high-end race RC's are just a tremendous waste of money.. Seriously, a built up RC8.2e with Hobbywing components,etc would cost more than double what the EB4 G3 does - and the EB4 comes with a good lipo!

All these companies - AE, Mugen, and on and on, upgrade their models every six months, so that the one you have plumets in value in that time. It's a freakin' racket. It really makes no sense.. I even kind of wonder if all of us suckers just follow the heard as the companies go through these stupid swings in design - really thin chassis' for ex., now Mugen comes back out with a thicker one on the MBX7, etc.. All a bunch of suckers buying €1200 buggies, which after one liter of fuel are worth half that.. And honestly, unless you are very, VERY seriously into racing, who gives a shxx?..

I'll tell you who........... We do. We fall for it. We think we have to have all this best stuff money can buy, so we feel good about it. Yeah it feels good to have it - for a few weeks. Then it feels bad, because you see that that month of good feeling cost way more than it was worth... Also, just driving the things. With a cheaper RC, screw it, plop it on the ground and off you go. With something that cost a fortune, you maybe don't drive it as often or freely, because you just see the plummeting dollar signs.. So here's to good quality budget RC's!!..

EB4 G3 here we come....

Haddi Taha

I was thinking of getting the rc8.2e then I thought, it will be cool for 1 week looking at all the shiny blue aluminium but spares are more expensive, I don't feel like beating on a $950 buggy or going 6s on it. 

HerrSavage

If you get an RC8.2e, and pay attention to RC8.2e threads..., you'll soon be made to feel that you have to do all these mods - Avid parts, Ghea parts, Kyosho shocks, and all the rest.. It never stops.

IMHO, you only really "need" an RC8.2e if you want to get quite seriously into organized racing. Anything short of that and it's a waste of money - in my opinion anyway.. They do look better - but you're right, it'll be all scuffed up after two or three outings anyway.. And yeah, having all that much more money into it, you'll be a little more cautious about thrashing it, and so on.. So yeah, IMO, if you want a buggy, well..., you really need to think about what's needed and what's not..

And oh btw, AE is supposedly working on an RC8.3....

Haddi Taha

I don't plan on racing at all (at least not competively) The only upgrades I was thinking of getting were aluminium chassis braces and a steel spur gear. I am not the upgrading type of guy

The RC8.2e was only released last year, why are they making a new one? Maybe it only has minimal changes and almost all the parts will be compatible with the rc8.2e

We will see which way I go when I get the monies to get the buggy

HerrSavage

Surely been posted before, but this video has some pretty impressive MT4 footage...

(The guy's thick Australian accent and way of talking are a trip too.. ) Fast forward 2-3 minutes to the driving..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpP0N67BPAs[/youtube]

Haddi Taha

yeah that guy owns an rc store in the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia. He got some pretty sick jumps there