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Ofna LX GT pro

Old 09-14-2003, 01:47 PM
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Maxxer
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Default Ofna LX GT pro

I know this is not a monster truck but,...
is the ofna lx gt pro very reliable? how fast is it?
Old 09-14-2003, 03:27 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

Buggies ROCK!!!!!

Who said you cant post buggy stuff here... Then I might get in trouble, I post buggy stuff here A LOT!!!!

Can't go wrong with ANY OFNA buggy... Remember, the cheaper buggies are just that cheaper... I have the Hyper 7 PBS and the only prob I have losing screws... I use lock tite, but they come out anyway...

I love this hobby.
Old 09-14-2003, 05:32 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

hey what do you mean when you said cheaper buggys are just cheaper? do they have any performance difference? have you ever seena lx gt pro run?
Old 09-14-2003, 06:36 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

I'd pick the MBX Pro over an LX Pro, because of more durable parts and is just at least $30-50 more. LX Pro will get you bent axles and possibly bent shock towers in the first few runs. I'm happy with my MBX R2, nothing has broken on it except stripped servo horn spacers.
Old 09-14-2003, 06:37 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

is the hyper 7 pbs much faster than the mbx pro or is it just $140 more durable?
Old 09-14-2003, 07:21 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

hey kuma, why do the axles bend and what about shock towers? What does the mbx have that the lx doesnt? Is the 2-speed upgrade a good idea?
Old 09-15-2003, 11:09 AM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

The Hyper 7 is a racing buggy like the 9.5 -

No 2 spd upgrades for these. As for cheaper and so forth, sometimes when you get a lower end RC anything, some of the parts break easier. I put mine through a serious beating. My only problem is losing screws. Lock tite helps, but I still lose screws.

Hope that helps.
Old 09-15-2003, 03:23 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

hey thanks man, I would have gotten the 2 spd upgrade if you hadn't told me.
Old 09-21-2003, 03:38 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

Hey does any one know whats the top speed on the mbx pro (mph)?
Old 09-21-2003, 03:50 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

Depends on the setup. Most OFNA racing series buggies (Hyper 7, and 9.5) have been clocked right around 40 after broken in correctly and tuned right. That is with single spd trannies....
Old 09-21-2003, 04:10 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

Is the break-in on the mbx pro or an ofna buggy very complicated?
Old 09-22-2003, 11:50 AM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

It is same for any car. The OFNA engines are really tite though. They are easier to start after about 9 or 10 tanks of fuel.
Old 09-22-2003, 03:17 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

Is this what I should do? This thing where you put the piston at the bottom of the sleeve seems hard to do. Do you recomend this? Or should I just run it around rich and lean each tank?


Step 1. The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can't touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool. During this procedure, it's also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what's taking place during break-in is that the engine's mating parts are being heat-cycled, which means they are expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools-without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel-it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its "easy turning" part. Repeat the above steps three or four more times.

Step 2. After you've heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don't get too excited yet - you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound "blubbery." During this procedure, it's vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead "blip" the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range. Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankful's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.

Step 3. Once you've put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it's time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clock face, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn't be allowed to "scream" quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust. Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more tankful's in this "almost race" setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn-this is your final setting.

Step 4. Once you've found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it's time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling. Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine's idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you've done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed. Setting your engine's idle speed isn't a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engauged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low. Afterthought: Nitro powered R/C vehicles can be tons of fun, or they can cause tons of frustration. The difference between success or failure lies with the break-in process. If you follow these steps, have patience, and use your noggin, you're assured of success. Rushing through the break-in procedure or worse, forgetting it altogether, is a recipe for disaster. Tuning your engine is the hardest part of nitro racing. But once you've learned how the carburetor works, and which screw does what, it will all become second nature. So when you're running your car, you'll always know exactly what to adjust to gain the highest level of performance possible.
Old 09-22-2003, 05:43 PM
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Default RE: Ofna LX GT pro

To put piston at bottom - you will not be able to start it without doing this. It is to tight.

Just use a screw driver to push the fly wheel and turn it until at the bottom. I easily have almost a gallon through mine and if the piston is not at bottom it does not turn over to start. It is easy to do the screw driver trick.

Let it sit and idle the 1st 4 tanks. Do not run the car and do not let it cut off. Just keep feeding it fuel for 4 full tanks.

5th tank let it cool before doing and then start it back up and just go smooth around your yard or somewhere nice. Do not go more than 1/2 throttle. Do this for another tank. So you are 6 tanks down.

7 th tank - start blipping it harder and harder. On either tank go full throttle.

WARNING - it will be hard as anything to start until you have at least 9 - 10 tanks through. And as I said almost 1 or right over 1 gallon through mine and if piston is not at bottom. It wont turn over. If it cools off and piston is not on bottom. When the engine cools it could stay stuck at the top and you may not get it to come back down. So it is important to get the fly wheel to turn with the screw driver thing until it is free and loose when it is cooling down and when you go to start it again.

Buy the OFNA Silver topped bump box with the super duper starter motor.

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