PROBLEMS
#1
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PROBLEMS
Just put an Ofna 8 port on my Savage. Ran the first tank through no problem, started great and burned it out. Now it starts and dies when I remove the glow igniter, starts and dies no matter what. Also when it starts for a few seconds its throttle varies on its own. Now the compression of it broke the pullstart rope. What can I do? Is this normal for this engine? I've never had this much trouble with engine before and its my 8th engine. This is the tightest engine I've seen yet.
#2
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RE: PROBLEMS
Once you get the pullstart situation sorted out, do yourself a HUGE favor and hit the engine case (not the heatsink) with a hairdryer for 2-3 minutes. By doing this, you will get in the neighborhood of 220-230 degrees which is on the low side of the normal operating temperature for the 8 port and the piston to sleeve fit will relax a bit.
As you've discovered, the 8 port is phenomenally tight when it's new (which is normal) and it is prone to burning plugs during break in. I'd replace the plug and see if that's your culprit. If the engine keeps fluctuating in rpm, it's also possible that you have an air leak at the base of the carb. Ofna had a great idea by using the plastic carb to disapate heat however the plastic carbs are also prone to air leaks. If so, a little oxygen safe RTV at the base of the carb should do the trick.
Once you get past the problems, you'll be rewarded with a smooth running engine that produces a boatload of power!
As you've discovered, the 8 port is phenomenally tight when it's new (which is normal) and it is prone to burning plugs during break in. I'd replace the plug and see if that's your culprit. If the engine keeps fluctuating in rpm, it's also possible that you have an air leak at the base of the carb. Ofna had a great idea by using the plastic carb to disapate heat however the plastic carbs are also prone to air leaks. If so, a little oxygen safe RTV at the base of the carb should do the trick.
Once you get past the problems, you'll be rewarded with a smooth running engine that produces a boatload of power!
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RE: PROBLEMS
the starting problem is positively the glo plugs need to be replaced..now the pullstart i kno its a pain for the 8ports first 20tanks but after that ull notice the power....im on my 2nd pullstart
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RE: PROBLEMS
Thanks guys, that does make sense. I thought that carb my me a problem already because I had to reverse it for the servo. I try exactly what you said, and hopefully it works out for me. I'm excited to see how it runs. Whats it gonna take about 10 tanks before it starts coming on. Most of my engines have taken around 10 or so except for the crappy 2.5 Tmaxx engines I've had. The 2.5 was never tight out of the box, I think thats why they burn up around 1 or 2 gallons.
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RE: PROBLEMS
Will my rotostart fit on that block? If the backplate adaptor fits I'll just use my cordless drill because the roto start is too weak.
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RE: PROBLEMS
I don't believe that the roto start will fit that block. I do know that Ofna is very close to releasing their own version of the roto start for the Hyper 21 though. It doesn't hurt to take a look, however I'm 95% sure that the HPI roto start won't fit.
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RE: PROBLEMS
The Hyper21 8 Port is a great engine.I have one in my Savage and love it!! When you turned the carb around did you push hard on the carb before you tightened it down?I didn't push it down tight and it was leaking air and caused an erratic idle like you are describing.The O-rings need to seat right or they will leak.Also put some locktite on the backplate.Mine came loose after about 15 tanks.Take it real easy on the pullstart too.It isn't cheap to replace and it's not very strong.I'm on my third one in about 4 gallons.Until they make something like the Roto Start to fit it your stuck with the pullstart.
#10
RE: PROBLEMS
The roto start will fit the Hyper 8 port with a little modification. On the Savage board I frequent there is a step by step procedure with pictures. Go to www.savage-central.com and do a search on it.
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RE: PROBLEMS
Ok, I tore it town and from what I can tell is that the oneway is inside of the block. My question is could I use a high power cordless drill w/clutch for safety reasons and just run off the output from the pullstart assembly?
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RE: PROBLEMS
FIXED IT. I used the pullstart assembly from the 8 port and parts from my .21bb and managed to get the roto-start fitted to the 8 port. After I was pleased to see that it was a success I ran into the issue of it being a 1/2 inch longer and not fitting back into the chassis so I ground away on the chassis until it made it in. Either way your screwed with these things. Your gonna f**k up oneways or pullstarts. I chose the rotostart way for conveinace and the oneways are about $7 cheaper than a new pullstart. Until its broke in I'll just back the glow plug off alittle whem I start it.
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RE: PROBLEMS
Now I've got it running and its idled through about 3 tanks; when I try took give it throttle it dies. Is the engine to tight for giving it gas yet. It idles fine but thats all. I've never seen such a stubborn engine. Should I let it idle through a few more tanks before I try to give it gas?
#14
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RE: PROBLEMS
Idling engines thru tanks(except for maybe one heat cycle...not a whole tank) is not a benificial thing...at all . Your 8 port will not start to lossen up until you drive it !
Put in a hot plug(MC59) and get the thing driving. Your gonna have to clear all the oil build-up out of the crankcase...leave the glow ignitor on and get it to rev and clear out...maybe lean it some.
TM
Put in a hot plug(MC59) and get the thing driving. Your gonna have to clear all the oil build-up out of the crankcase...leave the glow ignitor on and get it to rev and clear out...maybe lean it some.
TM
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RE: PROBLEMS
Newtoheli,
What are your needle settings on the 8 port? Are you going with the factory settings of 3 1/2 turns out from flush on the LSN and 5 turns out from closed on the HSN? If so, you will NEVER get your truck to move. the second you give it throttle, it will die. The factory settings are WAY rich and only good if you're idling.
If you have any hopes of seeing the truck actually move (without you kicking it), then you are gonna have to lean the LSN 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. When breaking in the engines, I know that the idea is to tune the HSN first then go back and tune the LSN however that theory only works if you can get the truck to move under it's own power and get up to speed. If you lean the LSN 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, the truck will move. I gaurantee it!
My current settings on my 8 port are 2 turns out from flush on the LSN and 2 3/4 turns out from closed on the HSN and my engine runs hard @ 240 degrees. If you work the LSN a little the truck will go.
What are your needle settings on the 8 port? Are you going with the factory settings of 3 1/2 turns out from flush on the LSN and 5 turns out from closed on the HSN? If so, you will NEVER get your truck to move. the second you give it throttle, it will die. The factory settings are WAY rich and only good if you're idling.
If you have any hopes of seeing the truck actually move (without you kicking it), then you are gonna have to lean the LSN 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. When breaking in the engines, I know that the idea is to tune the HSN first then go back and tune the LSN however that theory only works if you can get the truck to move under it's own power and get up to speed. If you lean the LSN 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, the truck will move. I gaurantee it!
My current settings on my 8 port are 2 turns out from flush on the LSN and 2 3/4 turns out from closed on the HSN and my engine runs hard @ 240 degrees. If you work the LSN a little the truck will go.