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MRC Nitro Thunder King

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Old 04-20-2005, 09:16 AM
  #1
theraven51
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Default MRC Nitro Thunder King

I was wondering if anyone knew of any aftermarket gears for this truck or possibly a different rear end that would be somewhat close that would be stronger. I can't seem to make it through one tank of fuel before breaking something. I was told that someone with the name theboss or something like that knows a lot about them. Any help is appreciate. Thanks!

Kev
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:26 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Hi theraven 51, I can help you out.

www.rcmt.net has a forum just for MRC products with tons of info and pics on these kits, note you must be logged on / member to get in. http://p083.ezboard.com/brcmtnet44998

If you are having problems with the diff, there is only two things it could be... the diff spring and or the cup washer under it. Also the diffs must be set tight on these kits. For bashing/low diff maintianance the 3mm ball can be replaced with 12 A/E slipper pegs. All ball diff's are a high maintainance units.

From the 30+ 8scale kits I have, the Thunder King kits are still my favorite kit

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Old 04-20-2005, 10:33 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Here is a post taken from rcmt...

Hi, the ball diff on the T-K is a good unit, it is probably the biggest one out there. Ball diff's are used for racing so they need regular maintenance. What i have found on the Nitro T-K truck's is that the diff MUST be set tight to prevent excessive slippage. Working on the truck from the back, first loosen the diff bolt on the left side, then take out the diff bolt set screw on the right side.(make sure you take it out).Then go back and tighten the diff bolt as much as you can by hand, then go back and put the set screw in and tighten up against the bolt, now go back and tighten the diff bolt into the set screw a little bit more, (you want to jam the bolt into the set screw) that's it. PS; when your putting it back together make sure you dip the end of the dog bone's in a little grease before assembly. Also when set up, do not holed one tire and turn the other backward's on any ball diff because it is sometime's possible to loosen the diff.
For those of you that want to try something diffrent with your NTK s8s ball diff, you can replace the 1/8 balls in the diff with friction slipper pegs from Team associated #25042 or even Traxxas #4685. Once you install them with a bit of grease, you will have to ajust and retighten the diff one or two times after running before they are seated properly. This mod will give you a more posi/spool like diff that can still give/slip a little and helps put more power to the ground. ( Update for pegged diff users, Team Associated has some new slipper pegs out that are better then the traxxas rulon pegs I would suggest using instead. The A/E pegs (part# 25042) seem to be of a better type material that are just a little bit longer and are cut more precisely to length, they also seem to be a bit harder matieral. They come in packs of 6 so you need two packs to do the diff.) I use this mod on my NTK trucks and they still handle great!!! with a little less maintainence and I think it is much better for bashing.



ATTENTION: LOOSE DIFF'S, for those of you that are having problems with your ball diffs coming loose. The diff (SPRING and WASHER) is causing the problem. SOME of the diff springs are cut oddly, so when you go to tighten down the diff, the spring bends to one side also bending the bolt with it and causing it to make contact with the inside of the joint shaft (HOUSING). This contact makes the diff loosen it's self when you go to drive it. Check when you do adjustments on your diff, make sure the diff bolt (head) is in the CENTER of the joint shaft housing hole, if it is not, it is probably making contact with the inside of the housing, (making the diff loosen). (THE FIX IS) cut off as much as 1/2 coil off one side of the spring so when you compress the spring it will stay strait and (NOT BEND TO ONE SIDE). Also the stock spring washer is to large and to thin and sometimes it bends (cups). Change the washer to one that is a little smaller in DIA.. (no bigger than the spring) and is thicker so it won't colapse when tightend or double up on them. The other thing to look out for is to make sure the cuped washer under the spring can turn/move/spin inside the housing, if it can not this will also cause the diff to loosen, some times this cup washer can seeze/crack/break from to much heat or lack of grease or both, just make sure it and the bearings under it have lots of grease and can turn freely. ATTENTION: One last thing when you are doing adjustments, don't forget about the diff bolt SET SCREW on the other side. ALWAYS take it OUT when you are making ajustments. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO KNOW FOR SURE THAT YOU ARE TURNING THE SET SCREW and not just thinking you are.


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Old 04-20-2005, 10:35 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Here is another post from rcmt...

I had a bit of time to check to see if I could make a standard 8scale torson diff fit into a TK tranny in place of the ball diff. I know it will work if the right diff dimensions can be found. so far the Kyosho 7.5 Fioroni torson diff will fit. The key to making it work is that the diff housing diamiter should be no more than 24mm. Have a look at the picks, the torson diff is about the best diff you could get for any 8scale. The stock NTK diff gear will slide right on and a small bit of matierial should be removed from the inside of the side that sits against the gear face plate so the gear will slide over it flush with the outer face and then set screws could be used to bolt it on.

BTW, a (melted out center) ball diff gear will fit perfect with just a bit of clean up. I also suspect that a stock Kyosho 7.5 diff will work too if its housing is less than 24mm in diamiter.







I think the (stock) gear will hold up better and maybe with out any problems at all with this setup because it does not have to deal with the heat the ball diff creates. Better would be a steel/aluminum tranny gear set, which I am still hopeing for but so far local quotes have been around $300.00+ for one tranny gear set (not good). I think I am going to try to get a quote from GH hobbys in vancouver soon, the other option maybe is to buy "cut gear stock" and finish machining it or find ready made gears that will work from companys like http://www.qtcgears.com/KHK/index_spur.htm or http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/CoverPg/Gears.htm We have started to look to these type of companys now.

I have seen that there are a few companys making steel/aluminum ball diff gears for some of the 10scale stadium race trucks like the RC-10/xxx which also have the same diff type problems. I think if we had a metal diff gear/counter gear with high end diff bearings, hardend drive cups and maybe a better compression spring the stock diff would be really hard to screw up. The center of a metal diff gear could also be easly cut out to for a Torsen mod to. I need to find out how many manufacturers make Torsons for the Kyosho 7.5 and simular and still do a bit of research on dimensions, interestingly the maxx diff has simmular dimensions but I can't see it holding up to any power.

Here are some more T prices.
http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/pag...rootid=0&id=13

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Old 04-20-2005, 03:14 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Thank you so much for all the info! I like the idea of a steel/aluminum tranny gear but for $300 I'll try to get the stock one to hold. Have you found much luck on matching the original gears with the ready made ones?
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:40 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Honestly, most of us have not had any real big problems with the diff gear, are you using the ETK or NTK gears?. The ntk gears are made from a better material (delerin) then the plastic elc tk gear. The ntks brake gear and diff gear are the same and come in twin packs for $6.60 (cheap). Try pegging the diff for now and you will see the diff gear will last for ever (all most lol). I have not really tryed to look for matching diff gears because we really don't have any real issues/problems with them. With running the stock racing ball diff the diff gear does have a wear factor on all ball diffs and need to be changed more often because of heat build up, pegging the diff will stop this and is better anyway for just farting around. On my kits, I only use the factory setup if I am racing on the track against 8scale buggys.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:17 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

btw, most guys that use the NTK's here for our yearly monster Jam TT event all run pegged diffs and never had any diff problems with any of the kits in the event.

Here is some vid clips of one of my moded NTK's running with a pegged diff

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=50625

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=50624





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Old 04-21-2005, 08:48 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

I believe I'm using the NTK gears. Will ETK gears fit in the NTK? I'm not the original owner of this kit so I've been just using the spare parts that it came with. Are the gears still available from MRC? I'm definatly going to try pegging the diff. Thank you for all your help.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:05 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

The elc and nitro gears look intentical, the only way to check is drop each gear on a concrete floor and you with hear a diffrence in the sound they make. After 15 years of this kit coming out many parts are still avalible for this kit retail direct from MRC.

btw, the ntk brake gear is also concidered a "wear" gear, most guys run 1 or 2 gallons of before they need to change it out. this is why they come in double packs.

Check ALL the "TIPS" threads on RCMT for setup info for your kit, (the $3.00 throttle linkage mod is the most important)
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:36 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

For those of you that are not familer with the 8scale Thunder King here's a pic of a TK beside a tiny tmaxx...



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Old 04-21-2005, 04:14 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

those looks awesome!!!!!!! [X(]

How well do they hold up?
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Old 04-21-2005, 05:50 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

How fast those things go?
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Old 04-22-2005, 01:11 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Hi guys, I basicly tell guys that are not sure what these kits are is... basicly they are simular to a A/E RC10 or LOSI XXX on STERIODS.

The NTK kits are SINGLE speed and were radar tested by C/A magazine with a top speed of 40 mph with stock gearing and more importantly they do it in about 5 seconds flat. One of my mod NTK's is radar tested at 50mph

You are looking at one of the TOUGHEST R/C toys ever made, but you don't have to take my word for it, check out this vid clip of a (brand new at that time) STOCK NTK jumping over two fullsize vans, we did this about 30 times that day with no problems.

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=50627

Why is the Thunder King such a good kit... check link below...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_18...%2Cking/tm.htm

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Old 04-22-2005, 06:51 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

While not to knock the Thunder Kings (I'd buy one if the opportunity arose) but all my statics and structures learning tells me that the frame test is pretty bogus. You have those blocks so close to where the edges of the truck tire are, it minimalizes the bending moment applied by the tire. (Moment = Force X Distance from the hinge) Really, to prove anything you should only have like, the two last 1/2 inches on the wood, and then the tire in the middle. It may hold it, it may not.

However, if you try, just be ready to order a new plate, just in case. :P
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Old 04-22-2005, 09:35 AM
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LOL sorry infernalstone, as usual... there is always someone that is looking for all the smoke and mirrors. IF you read the thread... the point was to compare a STOCK $30.00 dollar chassis to the expensive S/M chassis doing the same thing... As you missed the point... the STOCK TK chassis is a flat pressed 2MM thick Multi Channeled aluminum plate which can hold more weight that any other single (pan type) chassis. As I stated in the post, quote" I set wooden blocks as far apart as I could (8.5 inches)"quote, That is because that left me with about 1, ONE INCH of channel left on EACH side LOL. if thats not to your satisfaction, I am very sorry. Why not try it yourself with your r/c toy quote "the two last 1/2 inches on the wood" quote ??? lol and post a pic for us.
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Old 04-22-2005, 12:14 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Because I know better then to seek ways to break parts that I have to turn around and buy.

I'm not knocking the design. There's really nothing wrong with simple pan designs. They're light, inexpensive, and strong. And it takes very little reinforcement to make them so much stronger.

I'm just saying that dropping 2/3rds the weight of a Ranger 4x4 on it in that setup just doesn't prove a whole lot for a metal pan chassis.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:58 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Quote:
ORIGINAL: infernalstone

Because I know better then to seek ways to break parts that I have to turn around and buy.

I'm not knocking the design. There's really nothing wrong with simple pan designs. They're light, inexpensive, and strong. And it takes very little reinforcement to make them so much stronger.

I'm just saying that dropping 2/3rds the weight of a Ranger 4x4 on it in that setup just doesn't prove a whole lot for a metal pan chassis.
On this I agree with you, the reason I did this test before was because S/M guys were bragging about how strong there complicated, expensive superior S/M chassis are to all others when they did this SAME! test, which to me is less impressive than my test.


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Old 04-22-2005, 03:39 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

nice. how old is that?
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:09 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Hi, the MRC Worlds8scale TK, BK, and DT kits were copyrighted and all came out in 1991 and are still alive and well today, 14+ years later... not a bad run for such an old school kit lol. The NTK was a limited production converted kit with about/approx 1000 made.

This is what the LTD NTK looked like new, MRC was sold out of all NTK kits years ago.


It's cool that after 14+ years MRC is still making/selling some parts for them.


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Old 04-22-2005, 06:21 PM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

I have always liked realistic 8scale bodys on my NTK's, check out this super8scale Kyosho landmax body, it is based off of one of the real life ford F150 stadium race trucks by CORE off road champion Scott Taylor, super cool if you like realistic stadium truck looks, its quality and detail is excellent, the sticker kit is one of the most detailed I have seen. I almost felt like I was working on a plastic model body lol.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMU37&P=7





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Old 05-06-2005, 08:58 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Does Anyone want to buy a thunder king (electric version kit, unassembled) ??????
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:25 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Still have that electric T/K for sale? How much? Thank you.


[quote]ORIGINAL: puppi350

Does Anyone want to buy a thunder king (electric version kit, unassembled) ??????
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:46 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

the MRC TK is priceless to me..... j/k

make me an offer, i have two kits available, but i would most likely keep one for myself. i really was gonna try ebay and see what happens there with the TK kit.

let me know. u can email me at

puppi350@hotmail.com




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Old 05-11-2005, 09:39 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Hi, there is some really cool things that can be done with the elc TK kits, I posted some info from RCMT on RCU on them a while back...

check it out

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_27...tm.htm#2721157
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:57 AM
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Default RE: MRC Nitro Thunder King

Great Info! thanks !
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