BigECB

Looks like I had my clutch nut on the flywheel too loose and it shredded the brass collar... now I'm having a bear of a time trying to remove the screw from thw shaft in order to take off the CB, Flywheel etc...

Since the flywheel isn't biting into the collar, whenver I try to loosen the shaft screw it just spins the shaft with no resistance... any ideas on how to get some resistance back on the flywheel (or anything) to get that dang screw out?

Thanks!

Ovgron

Is your engine a pullstart, rotostart, or does it use a starter box?

BigECB

It is a pull start... Collari .30...

I did get everything off last night after heating up the shaft and getting the loctite to loosen up... still would like to hear some ideas on how to get the shaft to lock while trying to break that thing free tho!

It turns out that I was shimming the dang thing wrong too (still a learning process for me!)... I needed to have a shim between the clutch nut and the cb bearing. I wasn't using one before because my shaft screw (using the same size that was used on my original Savage .21) wasn't long enough and tightening it down prevented the cb from spinning freely. So, I knew there had to be a way to make it work with one one there... turns out I just needed to used a longer shaft screw (from an Ofna Shim Kit!) and put a couple of shims out on the end of the cb and everything works fine now! When the shaft screw is tightened all the way, there is just enough room for 2 shims (small black washers from shim kit) between the head of the screw and the cb bearing. The cb spins freely now and I hope to have it mounted and back in the truck asap!

On a side note... is there any recommended way to tighten that clutch nut against the fly wheel? I have loctite on it too... and I thought I had it pretty tight before. Maybe all the torque on the Collari is taking a toll

Thanks!

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

The way to secure the shaft is to get a tool at your LHS that screws down into the glowplug hole and holds the piston at BDC. This allows you to crank that nut tight without the shaft moving. I used a pair of vice grips on pieces of wood (When tightening my flywheel nut) to hold my flywheel after turning it on its back and gently tapping on a long socket just larger than the diameter of the output shaft (This seats the flywheel on the collet). I recommend the tool and not the vice grips because the chance of damage is too high if you are not very careful.

Also, be sure that you have a properly sized brass collet for your flywheel. The one that came with my SH allowed the flywheel to contact the case (And therefore not get fully tight). I had to switch to the one from my S-25 motor. You really don't need loctite on the screw that goes in the end of the output shaft. I have never used it and have never needed it (2 Gallons through my SH and it has not loosened).

BigECB

Excellent advice! I'll be on the lookout for that tool to hold the piston at BDC... Any tool to make the job easier will be well worth the money!

snowbl!nd

OR, if you dont have the piston locking tool you can try this... It works and is cheap.

Get the piston NEAR TDC (with no glow-plug), you want to just have the piston so that all the ports are covered by it, ie when you install the glow plug you wil have an air-tight chamber.

Then put AR (after run) oil into the glow plug hole. You will need quite a bit, you want the oil in the combustion chamber to come up to where the bottom of the glow plug will be when you install it.

Then install the glow plug and tighten. Because you cannot compress oil (unlike air), the piston will be unable to move up the sleeve, it will effectively be hydrolocked.

This will prevent the cranshaft from turning, and therefore you will be able to remove screws etc from it.