2000XLT

well today i started to break in the mammoth, did everything to the book running for 2-3 min, cool for 10 min and so on, i got about 20 min total of runtime the my glow starter died, so my friend and i had to pack up our stuff, we headed over to a barbeque where i knew someone who has some rc cars and i got his glow starter from him, went to start the truck with the "i now have a roto start on it since the pull start broke even befor i could get the engine started when i got the truck" i put the shaft on the engine cranked it for about 3 seconds, it did not start, so i tried it again but this time my my shaft start tip broke, the pin on the tip sheared off. so i pack it up again. I just got home and noticed fuel leaking from the bottom of the fly wheel, ***.... just for the hell of it i tried to turn over the engine by hand,..nothing.. it is siezed. I guess it hydrolocked and when that happened it broke the tip off the shaft start. i also noticed very tiny bits of metal on the chassis, upon looking close the carb is very close to the fly wheel and tiny chunks, i mean VERY tiny chunks out of the fly wheel,.... Any one think i got a bad truck from the factory, i mean i had to adjust the linkages out of the box, gas and brake was being applied at the same time. I thought this thing was READY TO RUN.....

a fun afternoon turned into anger.

what should i do, i thought this truck would be alright for what i paid.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

first of all, RC cars are not an investment. anything can and will go wrong.
SECOND of all
YOU ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO FLOOD YOUR ENGINE.
third of all, those metal shavings by the flywheel are from the collet that got chewed up God knows how.
the XTM .247 is a tight as hell engine. VERY tight. at 9 gallons mine was still breaking pullstarts. YOU just need to learn how to DEAL WITH AN ENGINE.

Lardman

I highly doubt it was the truck it-selfs fault though ..

RenegadeRevo

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe because I've only had one kind of truck, but that seems to be a lot of crap out of the box. I don't know if it's the Mammoth, you, or just that ONE truck, but that seems like a lot of hell to go through to get it to run.... You aren't supposed to flood the engine, yeah... but it should start without flooding... I dunno what to tell you... obviously, my first reaction would be "I told ya so..." but, that isn't going to help, is it? I guess there's a few things you can do... First, you can sell it... and get a different one... second, you can fix the rotostart... unflood it... and hope it will loosen up... or Third... throw it off a cliff.

binaryterror

REVOFAMILY you need to stop bashing the MAMMOTH thats all you do, yet never owned one PERSONALLY.

#1 flooding an engine is the owners fault, you can not blame the engine or truck. You might have even bent a connecting rod. Yet another reason Roto-Starts are low on my list of starting methods.

#2 There is a myth, no truck or buggy is truely 100% RTR if you ask me.

Flywheel hitting the carb? Not unless YOU turned the carb while trying to do the linkage set up.

Ovgron

That sounds like every other day for me.

Alot of your problems sound like Driver Error, not the Mammoths. Flooded the engine? Users Fault. Glowstarter died? Users Fault. The linkage thing is nothing, I dont understand how you can even bring up the linkages as a problem because it takes 5 MINUTES to adjust them and it costs no money to do it. Ive hydrolocked 24.7s, 24.7 pros, TORQ. 21s, and a TRX 2.5, so its obviously the drivers fault.

If you cant handle adjusting linkages, your in for a world of heartbreak when you actually break a part.

Why dont you post your problems on the Mammoth forums at Global Hobby? You'll get alot more help there if you ask.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

I'd be more than willing to trade my electric tamiya touring car for his mammoth. maybe it's somethin he can handle[&:]

RenegadeRevo

My Feedback: (1)

Wasn't trying to bash the Mammoth... just expressing my opinion that it's a lot of crap to go through.... gave a few suggestions... (notice I did say "second, you can fix the rotostart... unflood it... and hope it will loosen up")

silverman1

You know instead of putting the guy down why don't you try to help him. Unless your perfect, everyone has flooded an engine, almost everyone, may have said what the ****, with there first rtr, expecting ready to run with minor adjustments, you gotta to learn, some learn quicker than others, I have done my share of dumb crap Learning.

Now to the the problem at hand, you might want to remove the engine, and pull the flywheel, to see if the cullet is chewed up, you might want to pull the roto start, to make sure none of the gears teeth our sheared off. Clean all the shavings away, and reassemble if everything looks okay, all yeah don't forget to remove the glow plug to un-hydrolock the engine. If everything turns okay charge your glow starter, put in a new glow plug, and try restarting, the motor after reinstallation into the truck of course.

Good luck

everspeed

I can see some owner error a mile away. (Not bashing you here, I made the same mistakes several times.) Your engine is very badly flooded. When you fire it up, make sure you finish your break-in, if you haven't done so. I''m assuming this is the reason for the flooded engine, due to rich break-in settings. And you need to loosen up the cinch bolt holding the carb, and move to get it away from the flywheel, and then re-tighten it. And make sure the metal pieces aren't from trying to turn the engine with a screw driver or something. And be careful here. These engines are pretty strong, and can handle super RPM's, but can be ruined from trying to spin over a hydro locked engine. And the flooding is what's causing the fuel to leak from the front of the crankshaft. The .247 is a pretty good engine. It's one of the best power plants on an RTR out there if you ask me. So try not to mess up a good thing when you begin to loose your cool. Good luck man!

2000XLT

well i got the roto start off tonight, and i foud two broken teeth on the small gear, so i guess i have to get that gear replaced, any one know if i can just buy that gear or do i have to buy a new roto start plate that includes the gears. As far as the fuel leak goes behind the flywheel, will it be ok now or does something have to be replaced?


Thanks for the help and support!!

Ovgron

I dont beleive ive ever seen the gears sold by themselves. I'd personally just buy a new backplate anyways, shouldnt cost more than $20.

2000XLT

yeah i guess thats what im going to do.


Thanks

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

If he hadn't alluded to these problems being specifically with the truck, we would have.

silverman1

Pop the flywheel off any ways before you order your parts, to make sure there is no damage to the flywheel cullet, or no shavings back behind there. Also as the one fellow said, make sure your carb is clearing your flywheel, he said the shavings might have came from that, you'll know more by close visual inspection. Don't feel bad, i've done some stupid stuff myself while learning, and some big blocks can be a real *****, during initial break in. If it pisses you off to bad walk away, and work on it when calm. Yeah you will probabally need to buy the whole starter assembally that bolts to the engine to get those gears. The roto start back plate system for the sportwerks .21 bolts right up, its made by horizion hobby, but you need there starter wand, and starter or a good battery powered drill. If she starts turning tight after you got fuel to the carb, stop imediately, remove the glow plug, and crank her upside down before proceeding. It does not hurt to crack the glow plug loose a little just to get her fired up, and the tighten it down.

good luck

2000XLT

i found the gear i need i ordered 2 of them, and two shafts off ebay,hopefully it will start, if not then i will have to get a new rod then.. Can i do that or do i "HAVE" to get a piston and sleeve too??

Thanks

jkulhanek

You can buy rods separately...

05focusr

My Feedback: (1)

ok mammoth comes extremly to rich out of bock lean the high screw out 1/4 turn and low 1/8 turn should help the flooding to stop i had the same problem and dried the engine out couple times before riching it so that it will stop flooding i ran 7 tanks before tuning and when all was done the truck was extremly fast

05focusr

My Feedback: (1)

sry i meant lean it out

Tnx_4_life

when trying to start loosing the glow plug might help a bit. then the engine will turn over much easier. dont turn it out too much tho...or u will have no compression and with the glow plug to far away the enegine wont even start. dont forget to turn it back in tho

needmoducktpe

try not heating the glow plug as long that takes alot of compression of my rc10gt when i do that. and when it gets flooded take out the glow plug and try to start it and obviously it wont start but put a paper towel over the cooling head and try and start it and the gas that flooded it will spray out into the paper tower that helps a bunch. my other sugestion is lean it out more if its getting flooded easy its too rich. lean it about 1/4 turn