beaglegod

I just got my new MGT today! I am soooo syched,I wasnt realy prepared for how freakin BIG this truck would be. I ordered it with a full set of RPM A-arms,red springs and xtra wheel lock nuts,but I was just wondering what you guys suggest.

Should I swap out the A-arms before running the truck or should I use the stock a-arms until they need replacing?

ScMc

use the stockers until they need replacing.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, time to test your discipline buddy... ALL professional magazines and published resources say that you should pull that engine right out and pull it apart. I have learned it is a lot better to do this and although painful, can really help your engine in the long haul.

Inspect it, make sure there are no leftover shavings, or fragments from manufacturing. Seal the backplate with some RTV, and close it back up.

Now, from my experience, I would also-

Get some blue threadlock and go through the metal to metal fasteners. Specifically the engine mounts. Metal to plastic screws are just fine.

Tape up all servo-receiver-failsafe connections, foam around the receiver. You don't want anything coming unplugged.

Verify all linkage is setup properly. Take the air filter tube off so you can see the carb. Turn on the transmitter and truck, push the throttle to WOT and make sure the carb fully opens- you shouldn't see any slider at all. Hit the brakes and make sure you get good braking on the other side.

If you can do all of this without putting in one DROP of fuel, you are going to have a safer and more reliable and long lasting truck. If not, have a good time! Not gonna kill it if you bypass these steps. Let's see some pics! I have pulled Nitro RTR's out of the box and had em started in about 10 minutes.

I am getting more patient now, and have been rewarded for it. My last brand new XTM 24.7 Pro was the BEST running engine I have ever had thanks to following RC Car Actions 'Nitro Tuning Guide'... Thing could idle through a whole tank if I wanted, totally reliable and easy to tune.

Far as the RPM arms, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Have fun! Congrats!

ScMc

good post Dale.[8D]

beaglegod

Thanks for that Dale. Im gonna have a go at pulling the enging off and giving it a good look. Needless to say Im nervous about doing it but I guess I gotta do it eventualy. Everything else you specified Ill definitely do before I start breaking in the engine.

Quick question though, The foam you refered to, what exactly is it, and what is RTV?

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

The foam is a non adhesive foam- about 1/16-1/8" thick. What it does is protect the receiver and absorb the constant vibration from the engine and also dampens shock from driving and jumping. Sometimes you can find it around the house, but otherwise probably home depot would have some.

The RTV is simply a liquid silicone that when drys, remains flexible and seals completely. You will find this at the auto parts store. I use the black permatex gasket maker RTV. You just use this very sparingly with a light coat between the block and the backplate- it fills in any imperfections and assures an airtight seal. Others use it around the carb and even needles, but I have found the backplate is the big one.

beaglegod

Any good articles on line about rebuilding engines? One with lotsa pics preferably. I have some articles in RC Car Action but they are sparing with pictures.

Thanx

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Listen, go to your LHS or on RCcaraction's website and order the 'Nitro Tuning Guide' published by RC Car action. It is a GREAT resource and will take you through everything including the physics behind these engines. I would recommend that book to anyone, new or even experienced.

The thing you don't want to do is break something that isn't broken...

I learned things from that book, even after years and nitro trucks I have had.

beaglegod

Well I bit the bullet today and removed the engine from the chassis, removed the air filter/glow plug/pull start/back plate.
Flushed the engine out with fuel a few times, let it dry out and put some after run oil in and turned it over 2 times. Than I sealed the back plate with silicone gasket (the black stuff from permatex) and put all screws back with locktite. Remounted the engine with locktite. Checked and adjusted throttle linkage.

Only problem I ran into was with one of the screws to the backplate which I overtightened to the point where it began to spin again, hopefully the locktite and the pull start that mounts over it will prevent it from backing out. Tomorrow Ill go over the entire chassis and use locktitie on every metal to metal screw,install my failsafe and hopefully I should be ready to go.

All in all I had a good time working on my new truck!

One question: do you think the overtightened screw on the backplate should be a cause for concern? Its not loose but with enough pressure you can continue to turn it indefinitely.Of course that was wile the locktite was still wet but I dont know how secure locktite makes screws.